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H110Hawk posted:If they are on the same subnet, no. It will all be local to the switch. The router is what routes traffic from one subnet to the other. Eletriarnation posted:Generally all the ports on the LAN side of a consumer router will be attached to the same port ASIC. This chip is able to make forwarding decisions between these ports based on a MAC address table (concisely, "switching") with a relatively low power budget and little if any involvement from the CPU. Thanks! I intuitively thought that’s how it would work but wasn’t 100% sure and didn’t want to spend money on a new switch to find out!
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Feb 22, 2024 18:27
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Shugojin posted:Definitely just to tick a box if people are blindly searching for a feature of 2.5Gb WAN Yeah I might have been caught by that, sucky.
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Feb 22, 2024 19:17
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Cyks posted:https://community.ui.com/releases/U...a1-39807da71ff7 Wow that is a mealy mouthed reply there. Any "reasonable person" (which is was false advertising claims go up against) would assume that if you turn off the IDS/etc features it could do basic routing at full speed. That 2.5gbps port is literally just increasing the BOM cost for advertising if it's as described. (I assume they will get around this by saying "you cannot disable those features, even if they only have a default-allow rule.") They basically pulled a Verizon. https://web.archive.org/web/2014071...congestion-myth https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2014/07/theres-no-congestion-verizon-says-despite-continued-netflix-problems/ So is the consensus that it's basically a 5-port gig switch with the 5th port uplinking to the SOC which then also has a 2.5gbps port on it? Edit: Also interesting on the SOC - that "ipq5332" thing maps to this board? https://www.qualcomm.com/content/dam/qcomm-martech/dm-assets/documents/Immersive-Home-326-product-brief.pdf - 10.6gbps PHY rate. 
H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Feb 22, 2024 |
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Feb 22, 2024 21:57
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Maybe Ubiquiti is just trolling everyone who keeps saying that any product that doesn’t support multigig in 2024 is completely useless. It’s still a better option than the UDM-Pro for most deployments.
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Feb 22, 2024 23:15
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That is lame. I don’t need it yet but I do have fibre and may go above 1Gb at some point. I think with my modem that might require sfp anyway though.
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Feb 23, 2024 01:24
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Just fyi bell fibre in Canada uses pppoe and every ubiquiti router even the dream machine pro se is to slow for 3/3 Gb let alone 8/8 Gb. I just gave up on them for routing because they suck.
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Feb 23, 2024 02:39
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Perplx posted:Just fyi bell fibre in Canada uses pppoe and every ubiquiti router even the dream machine pro se is to slow for 3/3 Gb let alone 8/8 Gb. I just gave up on them for routing because they suck. What are you using as a router at such high speeds? I'd expect multi-gigabit routing to require some expensive (or very DIY) hardware.
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Feb 23, 2024 02:42
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Twerk from Home posted:What are you using as a router at such high speeds? I'd expect multi-gigabit routing to require some expensive (or very DIY) hardware. The dream machine pro se is expensive and Ubiquiti doesn’t list the ~2.3 Gb pppoe limit in the spec sheet, but they do list the IDS/IPS throughput is 3.5Gb. There are many disappointed customer on unofficial bell internet discord.
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Feb 23, 2024 02:49
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PPPoE is such an afterthought for most routers that when I was on Bell I just did double NAT + DMZ. I’m convinced they only use that provisioning to mandate HomeHubs for casual customers and gather advertising data from the LAN.
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Feb 23, 2024 03:10
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WAN routing is a lot more intensive than internal Layer-3. WAN wise the UXG-Pro can hit 3-4 full featured and 7-8 range with some limitations. Probably not on PPPoE though. I think similar performance from the CCR2004. Anyone know of anything besides the CCR2116 that can hit line rate? I think most of what I see are roll-your-own opnsense boxes, and you pay a steep cost in both hardware and power bill for that. The ISP provided routers they lease you are mostly also trash. What would you use? With fiber the ability to roll out faster uplinks has outpaced the ability to use those. We had 56k for 20 years, and 50Mbps copper with DSL/cable for 10 years. We jumped from 100, to 300, to 500 in the course of the early 2010's. Now we've gone to Gbe as standard with 2/5/10Gbe intermittently rolling out. I'm sure someone who lurks here can tell me what the maximum PON bandwidth per subscriber is on the fiber they roll out by the truck load (Probably 10G rated OS2?). I got to briefly play with a VME chassis design at work that was using MTP-24's for dozens of devices at 100G, and I can't wait to see that in my basement circa 2035, as I like the MTP connector much better than LC-LC's.
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Feb 23, 2024 03:20
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Twerk from Home posted:What are you using as a router at such high speeds? I'd expect multi-gigabit routing to require some expensive (or very DIY) hardware. I have 3/3G from Bell and I use a standard PC as my gateway, running OpenBSD. CPU i3-4350, 4GB RAM, SMT disabled and a dual nic 10G card Intel 82599. Works perfectly. CPU temp stands at under 40C most of the time. edit: Just noticed the "expensive" remark. Everything was relatively cheap (the mb+cpu+ram were bought new, when i3-4350 was current, but they couldn't have been too expensive). The case I got from newegg, it's a rack case I think $100 or so. The 10G card from ebay, so that was ... whatever, don't remember, tens of $. 100 max. All in canadian rupees, so even cheaper in USD. The switch that gives me SFP+ ports was from ebay as well. And I do passthrough pppoe, no need for double NAT, it just works. You really don't need expensive hardware for a router for high speeds. Only if you want to be fancy. Volguus fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Feb 23, 2024 |
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Feb 23, 2024 03:58
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Yeah, an old desktop is the cheap way to do it but if you want something more compact there's a whole category of mini-PCs for this kind of thing now. The ServeTheHome site/YouTube channel has covered several of them. To provide an example, this one has two 10G and four 2.5G ports. With an i5-1240P controlling them, I'd bet you have plenty of power to run Proxmox and make the router just one of several VMs with the NICs passed through. The 5-core options would still be more than enough for the router part alone and are a lot cheaper.
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Feb 23, 2024 04:32
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My isp runs pppoe which is annoying but I'm also on an excellent grandfathered 1gbps plan so I don't want to leave them. I opted for vyos as my router when i made the move from a consumer all-in-one, partly because I was led to believe freebsd pppoe was less performant than Linux (single core or something?) That's probably changed now but I've come to prefer vyos' single config file that can be easily backed up and redeployed vs most of the gui router/firewall solutions. I've been pretty happy with my setup for a couple of years now, so I'll put up some pics and basic info soon.
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Feb 23, 2024 07:46
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Maybe more enterprise than home, but can someone shed some light on the following: With NBASE-T (2.5 and 5.0Gbit), that usually won't work on older purely 10Gbit equipment, right? But what if it's SPF+? Let's say one end is 2.5Gbit SFP+ and the other is 10Gbit SFP+. can I buy a SPF+ tranceiver that'll allow this link to work (at 2.5Gbit)? Specifically, this would be connecting a SonicWall TZ470 to a Dell PowerSwitch S4148T-ON.
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Feb 23, 2024 10:16
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802.3an-2006 and 802.3bz-2016 uses different bandwidths and symbol rates, but they all require the same number of lanes - so newer 10GbE SFP+ transceivers can't even use a single lane to run at 2.5GbE.
BlankSystemDaemon fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Feb 23, 2024 |
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Feb 23, 2024 15:02
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Man I’m in the wrong line of business. Got sent a quote that I wasn’t involved in to look over. Yes, I’m telling them to throw it in the garbage. Using existing cabling, the quote is for all Unifi gear: UDM-Pro with HDD. 2 48 port switches 3 indoor APs 1 Outdoor AP 6 Unifi cameras 3 Unifi phones (lol) Total cost for parts and labor to install: $15,770 before tax. So $4k worth of equipment and $12k for 2-3 hours of work. Why did they get this quote? They reached out for help getting their emergency pool phone working. Which none of this fixes. They don’t need any of this.
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Feb 23, 2024 17:44
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Jeez that is criminal
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Feb 23, 2024 18:09
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I dunno I could probably spend 2-3 hours on just cabling.
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Feb 23, 2024 19:22
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Eletriarnation posted:Yeah, an old desktop is the cheap way to do it but if you want something more compact there's a whole category of mini-PCs for this kind of thing now. The ServeTheHome site/YouTube channel has covered several of them. I don't think most of those can do IDS/IPS at line speed though, which is the whole problem in search of a solution. The ones that can are just as expensive as the prosumer rackmount stuff, if not more so, and you don't have the support structure and dev patches when you DIY like that. Cyks posted:Man I’m in the wrong line of business. Is it $12k in Labor or $12k in a warranty and support contract after the labor? Those are very different value propositions.
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Feb 23, 2024 20:05
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withoutclass posted:I dunno I could probably spend 2-3 hours on just cabling. It’s priced using existing cabling per the quote. There’s even cabling for the cameras as the existing cameras work, just nobody knows the password to log in remotely. Though there’s 16 cameras so I don’t get why they only quoted 6. quote:Is it $12k in Labor or $12k in a warranty and support contract after the labor? Those are very different value propositions. There’s no line item for support or any support terms outlined on the quote. It specifically says “you will be provided full administrative access after installing.”
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Feb 23, 2024 20:30
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I have possibly a real stupid question. Can you pull the fiber connectors (not the actual fiber, but the sort of metal barrel it is terminated in) out of the larger plastic frames of things like LC duplex? I was considering replacing some lovely cat5e runs in my house and it seems like it might be easier at this point to go fiber. Especially considering how drat cheap switches with a couple SFP+ ports are now. BUT, there are a couple drilled holes that are basically cat5 size, and while I don't mind opening them slightly if absolutely necessary, drilling a 1/2" hole or whatever nonsense it would take to push a full fiber connector through seems ridiculous. Pushing the two actual fiber terminations through one at a time seems perfectly reasonable though. I suppose the other alternative is get the whole setup to cut fiber and do the termination myself, but that's also opening up another thing to go wrong since I've never done it or ever even seen it done, and I imagine the cheap 'fiber termination kits' that are available probably suck.
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Feb 24, 2024 00:27
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Rescue Toaster posted:I have possibly a real stupid question. Can you pull the fiber connectors (not the actual fiber, but the sort of metal barrel it is terminated in) out of the larger plastic frames of things like LC duplex? I was considering replacing some lovely cat5e runs in my house and it seems like it might be easier at this point to go fiber. Especially considering how drat cheap switches with a couple SFP+ ports are now. BUT, there are a couple drilled holes that are basically cat5 size, and while I don't mind opening them slightly if absolutely necessary, drilling a 1/2" hole or whatever nonsense it would take to push a full fiber connector through seems ridiculous. Lucent connectors might be rated for an order of magnitude less insertions/removals, but they don't tend to get unplugged and replugged a whole lot to begin with, so I'm not sure why anyone would use anything else. If you do end up removing it, you're likely going to end up splicing fiber on your own - and it's not typically something I'd recommend doing without a shitload of practice. Fiber isn't like a pass-through RJ45 crimping, where you can get a tool that'll do it for you, because if the end of the termination isn't done right, you end up with significantly less signal thanks to light reflecting off the end of the cable.
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Feb 24, 2024 01:27
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Post a picture of the exact connector you have. Some yes, some no. To BSD's point there's a bunch of them. Little connector and standard connector I will die on this hill.
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Feb 24, 2024 01:40
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H110Hawk posted:Little connector and standard connector I will die on this hill. stick and click, and little click
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Feb 24, 2024 01:56
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I've got a question about basic home networking. I've got an asymmetric cable connection with theoretic 1 Gbps down. I've got a router > USG > Unifi 8 port switch > Unifi AC-LR. Using Cloudflare's speed report I get 700 Mbps down/30 Mbps up at the USG LAN port. 600 Mbps down/30 Mbps at the switch, but if I'm wireless 2 feet away from the Unifi AP-LR, I get a maximum of 150-200 Mbps down/20 Mbps up. The connection from the Switch to the AP-LR is CAT 5E verified by the switch. I've checked the laptop (2021 Macbook pro) signal strength and it's - 55 to -60 dBm on 5Ghz, best I can do right next to it is getting it up to - 50 dBm. I've set the UAP AC-LR 2.4 Ghz to VHT20, did an RF scan for least traffic and have it on channel 11, same with 5 Ghz at VHT40 Mhz on channel 44, and both transmit power at medium. I've tried changing the transmit power to high and VHT80 Mhz but no change in download speed. The network is mostly stock, I've set up 2 SSID but haven't set up VLAN or other partitions yet. I do have heavier camera traffic, I have multiple Nest cameras (6) on the system (I have 2 other APs, 2 Unifi AC PRO) which also have similar download speed issues. I haven't tried completely powering down the wireless cameras but I would expect that the Nest system should be robust enough for these clients. Is there something I'm missing, or is the AC-LR just an older piece of kit and that's as fast as it goes?
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Feb 24, 2024 02:06
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Turn your transmit power as low as it will go. Turn off 2.4ghz temporarily or make it a unique SSID, with the other one 5GHz only. Both lowest power. Connect to the 5GHz one, hold "option" and click your wifi icon, screenshot it. Or do the CLI version of that I forget what the command is but google knows.
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Feb 24, 2024 02:12
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M_Gargantua posted:I don't think most of those can do IDS/IPS at line speed though, which is the whole problem in search of a solution. The ones that can are just as expensive as the prosumer rackmount stuff, if not more so, and you don't have the support structure and dev patches when you DIY like that. Yeah, I wasn't saying that they do - just responding to the "how do you route at >1G speeds without expensive equipment" question. I haven't ever worked with IDS/IPS at all, so it's far from me to know at what point it would make sense to even have one on a home connection.
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Feb 24, 2024 02:34
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BlankSystemDaemon posted:Are you talking about Straight Tip, Ferrule, or Sub Miniature connectors rather than Lucent or Subscriber connectors? Those are the only ones I can think of that're metal tipped rather than plastic, though I don't recall seeing their widespread use anywhere. I don't have anything yet. I have some switches and NICs with 10G SFP+ ports. I'll rephrase: What's the best I can do in terms of commonly available cables & SFP optics in terms of the cable diameter I have to drill holes for. I'm happy to use whatever. Just looking at say LC connectors, I can see that sometimes the pair in a duplex can be separated (or you could just use single-mode bidirectional and one fiber anyway). I was wondering, is there anything smaller than something like a single simplex LC? In terms of the hole diameter needed to pass a cable through a wall or floor or whatever. I didn't know if any connectors can have the inner actual termination/lens/whatever separated from the outer plastic square frame and replaced without actually re-aligning the fiber itself, if that makes sense at all. Or maybe the outer square plastic is always integral to the termination anyway?
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Feb 24, 2024 03:22
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LC connectors on duplex fiber is going to be your best bet. Single mode and multimode are about wavelengths - this is determined by your optic (sfp+ or whatever. Often single mode/smf is 1310nm and multimode/mmf is 850nm.) Simplex fiber is a single strand which uses multiple wavelengths or some other multiplexing to get a by directional signal over a single strand. Your optic and cable type needs to match. If you are doing multimode optics then multimode fiber. Those generally have a throw of 650meters iirc. Smf 1310 is normally 10km. You might need to attenuate it to not blow your optic out. LC and SC can almost all be taken apart to help but you need to be very very careful. You should just cut in a low voltage ring or box. ST and such are bnc looking things. I wouldn't worry about those. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Feb 24, 2024 |
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Feb 24, 2024 03:25
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I only mentioned the single-mode because it has the possibility of going bidir single-strand instead of duplex. But yeah I'm aware normal household runs would be too short unless I could find single-mode bidir optics that won't blow out at whatever length I need. Regardless, simplex doesn't buy a ton since it seems like most duplex LC could be taken apart and passed through one at a time. The main reason is in two different places I have several inches of concrete that I drilled for CAT5e with a hammer drill and I'll have to borrow one again and a larger bit and I'd rather not go any larger than absolutely necessary. Ideally something that could fit through a 3/8 hole that the cat5 is in would be nice, but I'm still not sure I'd want to mess around with re terminating fiber myself, which is probably the only way to go that small unless you could somehow pull out the 'core' of a larger connector.
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Feb 24, 2024 03:34
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adnam posted:I've got a question about basic home networking. I've got an asymmetric cable connection with theoretic 1 Gbps down. I've got a router > USG > Unifi 8 port switch > Unifi AC-LR. Using Cloudflare's speed report I get 700 Mbps down/30 Mbps up at the USG LAN port. 600 Mbps down/30 Mbps at the switch, but if I'm wireless 2 feet away from the Unifi AP-LR, I get a maximum of 150-200 Mbps down/20 Mbps up. The connection from the Switch to the AP-LR is CAT 5E verified by the switch. That sounds like you're maxing out 40Mhz channel width? I don't know if your test with 80Mhz channels stuck if it didn't change your speed, or your test device can't do those wifi speeds.
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Feb 24, 2024 05:18
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M_Gargantua posted:That sounds like you're maxing out 40Mhz channel width? I don't know if your test with 80Mhz channels stuck if it didn't change your speed, or your test device can't do those wifi speeds. I've changed the channel width to 80Mhz and there's no change in speeds. I'm also using browser speedtest and know I should use iperf/run a docker container, but honestly I'm not that tech savvy. H110Hawk posted:Turn your transmit power as low as it will go. Turn off 2.4ghz temporarily or make it a unique SSID, with the other one 5GHz only. Both lowest power. Connect to the 5GHz one, hold "option" and click your wifi icon, screenshot it. Or do the CLI version of that I forget what the command is but google knows. Here's my results for that, no real change in speed even with 2.4ghz off.  Also, once again within the constraints of a browser speed test, I've got a weird initial slow speed that then ramps up to a max speed.  I know that the router I'm using is technically not the ISPs 'recommended' routers, but I it does have 24 channel download / 8 channel upload and power levels look acceptable, so I don't know if that's the issue. I've purchased a 'recommended' router that's on the way, just so I can have the ISP stop using that as an excuse to see if my signal is degraded from their end. Some additional specific factors for my network I'm not sure may be an issue, 1) I've got 3 SSIDs available on the network in preparation for a VLAN set up but only 1 SSID is really being used at this time, no additional rules are in play. I turned off all smart queues, geoIP blocking, traffic analysis given how meagre the USG has wrt CPU power, but I also have quite a number of wireless Nest cameras (8 total)/doorbells/thermostat x2 that are an issue, and am planning on wired security in the future. I don't necessarily thing those are the issue but I do have frequent TCP latency errors given their distance from some of the APs.  I'd love to blame the Nest cameras as an issue but I turned them all off and did another test and while download speeds were slightly improved, I don't think they're the primary issue but once again I'm a little lost as to how to trouble shoot this so any tips I'd appreciate. Thank you in advance. adnam fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Feb 24, 2024 |
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Feb 24, 2024 07:37
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Browser speed tests are just fine. I use fast.com. You know because you're seeing faster results using the same test over a wire.
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Feb 24, 2024 07:55
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See how many other ssids there are that you can see. Grab the unifi wifiman (or any other one) app for your phone. You'll probably have better success moving your channel from 40 to something like 100 or 130 if there's any overlap with your neighbours.
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Feb 24, 2024 23:35
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Hey all. I'm in the UK with my broadband provided by virgin media and I'm finally sick of their lovely router combo making GBS threads itself and disabling it's WiFi functionality on a whim. I've got a powerline connector into my home office (at some point I'm going to run an actual cable, we only moved in last week), but most everything else in the house is running off WiFi - couple of tvs, couple of consoles, couple of tablets and half a dozen phones. What sort of thing should I be looking at? Googling doesn't exactly help any more because of all the SEO optimised AI spam that just wants affiliate link clicks to Amazon.
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Feb 25, 2024 20:28
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How big is the house? What materials are the walls made of? (In other words, would you benefit from multiple access points across the home?) What kind of budget do you have?
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Feb 25, 2024 21:04
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nielsm posted:How big is the house? What materials are the walls made of? (In other words, would you benefit from multiple access points across the home?) Dunno about square footage but it's five bedrooms, three reception rooms in the parlance of UK estate agents. Walls are mostly brick, the house is from the sixties and that was standard then. Budget wise I wouldn't like to spend more than a couple of hundred pounds if possible but I could stretch a bit if there's good reason.
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Feb 25, 2024 21:09
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Ask: Easy/minimal fuss range extending options for better WiFi coverage across the house. Does such a thing exist? I imagine most range extenders are marketed in a way that is nonsensical. Do powerline WiFi extenders exist? Budget: $100-200, lower better ofc. Background: Helping a friend with his networking issues. The WiFi coverage in his room is lacking. He rents in a mother in law unit physically part of the “master house” and the router appears to be as far as possible from his room. He doesn’t have causal access to the main house but he would have the ability to go in and make changes to the hardware if he needs to. His internet usage is social media, streaming shows, FaceTime. Which is to say I don’t think he’s gonna care if his speeds are 200mbps vs 300mpbs, as long as it’s enough for the above usage.
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Feb 26, 2024 04:12
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unknown posted:See how many other ssids there are that you can see. Grab the unifi wifiman (or any other one) app for your phone.  Moving channels after checking traffic was the right idea, thanks.
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Feb 26, 2024 08:10
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Yeah, with the advent of wireless TV boxes and wifi extender pods that all sit in the default channels if you're within range of your neighbors and use the frequencies , it's always best to move to something else if you can. Your neighbors can/will easily blow out your network if you're overlapping.
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Feb 26, 2024 18:25
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