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Jonny 290 posted:Back side is a tight fit with just the wire, no jeweler's screwdriver pokey clearance Wish I could help more... I feel your pain, had a mommy squirrel build a nest in my daughter's jeep along the street. Took out ABS, evap sensor, codes out the wazoo, yada yada. Best part was discovering the mess, and wishing I had David Attenborough flown in to document the fiasco.
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Feb 26, 2024 00:06
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C-Bangin' it 
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Weird thing is, they only ate that and two vacuum hoses (i learned my lesson and keep a hose and fitting kit here at all times, so that's nbd) and there are many, many reports of squirrels and rodents specifically eating this fork of the harness. A quick scan shows nothing else touched. It's near the top of the engine so i wonder if they were camped out there in January (didnt drive it all) tryin to stay warm next to the hood or something.
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Feb 26, 2024 01:23
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Over the past 1 month or so, I've noticed a kind of... whirring? rotating? sound while driving, especially when I'm not going in a straight line. It's a 2005 Kia Spectra with about 130,000 miles on it. I think the tires are in good shape (I had them checked a couple of weeks ago after hitting a pot hole, but the noise precedes that), and I haven't noticed any performance issues. Sorry, I'm really struggling to describe the sound. It's kind of like when your dryer is running and you can hear the stuff tumbling around inside in a very rhythmic way, like a constant whum-whum-whum-whum-whum-whum-whum-whum-whuim. I think it's coming from the sides of the car rather than the engine area. Any ideas before I bring it to a mechanic? What's killing me is that I want to replace the car in like 3-4 months so I'm very tempted to just keep ignoring this, but I've got a couple of 8-hour drives between now and then that maybe makes "do nothing" a bad idea.
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Feb 26, 2024 03:42
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Jonny 290 posted:Back side is a tight fit with just the wire, no jeweler's screwdriver pokey clearance I got a huge assortment of depinning tools on aliexpress for like $2.50.
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Feb 26, 2024 03:56
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Besides three points across, to measure tread depth, how many times around? About to swap snow tires for regular tires and Im hoping to have the regular tires rotated properly.
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Feb 26, 2024 04:20
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surf rock posted:Over the past 1 month or so, I've noticed a kind of... whirring? rotating? sound while driving, especially when I'm not going in a straight line. It's a 2005 Kia Spectra with about 130,000 miles on it. I think the tires are in good shape (I had them checked a couple of weeks ago after hitting a pot hole, but the noise precedes that), and I haven't noticed any performance issues. Probably a CV axle.
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Feb 26, 2024 04:45
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CV axles usually click, and they get louder at harder steering angles when the joint is getting flexed more. My money is on a wheel bearing.
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Feb 26, 2024 04:50
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Full Collapse posted:Besides three points across, to measure tread depth, how many times around? Unless there are visible flat spots probably one is enough but for how long it takes doing it in 3-4 spots is plenty.
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Feb 26, 2024 05:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:CV axles usually click, and they get louder at harder steering angles when the joint is getting flexed more. My money is on a wheel bearing. I still can't think of a good way to describe the sound, but I can confirm it's not a clicking at least.
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Feb 26, 2024 05:35
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I'd guess wheel bearing or something with a brake rotor maybe. I had a once per wheel rotation sound on my car that I assumed was wheel bearings because it got louder turning left and quieter going right, or maybe the other way around, but essentially when you load the wheel bearing in one direction it may get louder if it's failing (was the rear passenger wheel). I got all the stuff to do the wheel bearing but on further investigation it was still pretty smooth and even. On the back of the rotor there was a pitted rust spot that had eaten the brake shoe way down and was causing it to rub. Wheel bearings you can check by jacking up each wheel and wiggling the wheel to see if there's play going side to side or up and down. You can also turn it if the parking brake isn't on and the wheels aren't locked with a parking pawl (for me the rear wheels were able to be spun since it's front wheel drive, but I made sure to chock the front wheels even in park).
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Feb 26, 2024 10:19
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For what it's worth I've had wheel bearings fail where I couldn't detect it by grabbing the wheel and etc. It absolutely sounds like a wheel bearing and OP should get an independent shop to confirm and replace it!
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Feb 26, 2024 10:47
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VelociBacon posted:For what it's worth I've had wheel bearings fail where I couldn't detect it by grabbing the wheel and etc. It absolutely sounds like a wheel bearing and OP should get an independent shop to confirm and replace it! Yeah, definitely. If the wheel bearing breaks the wheel can come off. Most four wheeled cars don't work well with three.
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Feb 26, 2024 11:14
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Thanks all, I dropped it off at the shop this morning! Hopefully it is just a wheel bearing.
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Feb 26, 2024 16:37
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Rexxed posted:I'd guess wheel bearing or something with a brake rotor maybe. I had a once per wheel rotation sound on my car that I assumed was wheel bearings because it got louder turning left and quieter going right, or maybe the other way around, but essentially when you load the wheel bearing in one direction it may get louder if it's failing (was the rear passenger wheel). I got all the stuff to do the wheel bearing but on further investigation it was still pretty smooth and even. On the back of the rotor there was a pitted rust spot that had eaten the brake shoe way down and was causing it to rub. OK, you win the prize: the front brake rotors/calipers need replacing. I was looking at my records before bringing it in this morning and saw that they were last done eight years ago, so I guess that makes sense. edit: correction, they also had to replace the wheel bearing so almost everyone wins, prizes are in the mail (ty for the advice!) surf rock fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Feb 27, 2024 |
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Feb 26, 2024 17:47
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VelociBacon posted:For what it's worth I've had wheel bearings fail where I couldn't detect it by grabbing the wheel and etc. It absolutely sounds like a wheel bearing and OP should get an independent shop to confirm and replace it! Same, had two different bearing failures on my old MS3 and neither one (one front, one rear) resulted in any detectable movement of the wheel. Just howled going down the road.
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Feb 27, 2024 07:05
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I have a 15 year old 650 ft-lb impact wrench that hasn't been cutting it lately. I see harbor freight has a 1700 ft-lb 3/4in model and a 1200 ft-lb 1/2in and they all run off of 90 psi air. I admit I don't know very much about the mechanics behind impact wrenches but if these aren't just marketing numbers, how do they get such massive amounts of torque from the same air pressure?
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Feb 28, 2024 22:50
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my layman's wild rear end guess would be some combo of the pressure acting on a bigger surface area to create more force and the impacts are on a longer "lever" to create more torque
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Feb 28, 2024 23:16
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Please refer to the Harbor Freight decision tree, items " if it fails will it injure me," and "if it fails will the thing I'm working on be damaged."
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Feb 28, 2024 23:22
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TTC will teach you far more than you ever thought possible on all things impact: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCLuRPYMxm0
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Feb 28, 2024 23:23
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I was driving along the freeway today and my tire popped. It wasnt as much of a pop, as it was my car started to rumble and shake more and more violently as I drove further. I was able to pull over the to the side of the road after about half a mile. The tire looks shredded, but more or less intact. I wasnt able to get very far before I pulled over so I shouldnt need to worry about any outstanding mechanical issues from the tire, correct?
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Feb 29, 2024 00:05
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You'll be fine.
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Feb 29, 2024 00:14
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obi_ant posted:I was driving along the freeway today and my tire popped. It wasn’t as much of a pop, as it was my car started to rumble and shake more and more violently as I drove further. I was able to pull over the to the side of the road after about half a mile. The tire looks shredded, but more or less intact. I wasn’t able to get very far before I pulled over so I shouldn’t need to worry about any outstanding mechanical issues from the tire, correct? If your tire damaged your floor before you got back to the pits you probably lost a lot of downforce. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Feb 29, 2024 |
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Feb 29, 2024 02:11
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Looks like one less thing to be worried about. Thank you.
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Feb 29, 2024 05:12
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obi_ant posted:Looks like one less thing to be worried about. Thank you. The only thing is now you'll have a newer tire and three worn tires. You should make sure that you don't have a new tire on the opposite side of an old tire on a drive axle.
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Feb 29, 2024 07:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:TTC will teach you far more than you ever thought possible on all things impact: Thanks for this, that was really interesting.
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Feb 29, 2024 13:31
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VelociBacon posted:The only thing is now you'll have a newer tire and three worn tires. You should make sure that you don't have a new tire on the opposite side of an old tire on a drive axle. My tires were kinda old, running about a 4-5 years and they were starting to get all crackly. I just decided to replace them all at Costco, the dude suggested Bridgestone Alenza AS ULTRA.
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Feb 29, 2024 21:28
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two_beer_bishes posted:Thanks for this, that was really interesting. That channel is a rabbit hole of all kinds of testing on impacts. Personally, unless you've already got a really good compressor and high flow fittings, I'd call this an excuse to go electric on the rattlegun.
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Mar 1, 2024 05:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:That channel is a rabbit hole of all kinds of testing on impacts. No kidding, I spent a ton of time going through their tests (gas powered impact  ). I do have a nice 60 gallon air compressor but I think my air hose is too long to fully get the air needed for my impact, or just missing the high flow fittings, plus I've been looking for an excuse to get an electric one anyway for portability. I ended up getting the ryobi 'high torque' impact since I already have a ton of their batteries. So far I'm really impressed; it took 5 seconds to get an axle nut off that my air impact wouldn't budge.
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Mar 1, 2024 13:33
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Yeah, my excuse to pick up a nut buster was removing an anode from a water heater (which are notorious for removal). I had the thing loaded with water, strapped family members to it, used cheater bars, my other mid impact, etc...wouldn't budge. With the big boy it zipped the drat thing out in less than 2 seconds.
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Mar 1, 2024 14:02
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I have my compressor cranked up to 120-lbs to get my wrenches to put out reasonable torque. Have a CH bought new, and a yard--sale Ingersoll-Rand. I have to figure out how to test them. They are older...I drop oil into them before each use but wonder if they're on their way out. I've thought about a cordless but have a 1950s Champion 60-gallon vertical in my garage loft that is hard-piped down to a (cheap HF) hose reel. It works well plus having compressed air on demand 24/7 has been sweet. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Mar 1, 2024 |
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Mar 1, 2024 16:34
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I've slowly migrated almost all of my power tools over to electric and I'll never look back. I'll use the corded tools that still work until they break, but other than having too many chargers I don't see enough downsides to stay with cords. My oldest is an electric impact from Northern Tool (Harbor Freight caliber). It's a 1/2" and was less than $100 when I bought it almost 20 years ago. I usually have to swap the battery right away, but it'll change 4 wheels worth of lug nuts in one go.
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Mar 1, 2024 19:17
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PainterofCrap posted:I have my compressor cranked up to 120-lbs to get my wrenches to put out reasonable torque. Have a CH bought new, and a yard--sale Ingersoll-Rand.
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Mar 2, 2024 00:24
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I have a really dumbass question. I apologize in advance. I am not a car person. I bought new a 2016 Honda Civic Touring around august of that year. For various reasons, its been a very low-mileage car, and it has yet to hit 27,000. However, the tires are the original factory rubber. Im going to soon take it on a 1500-mile trip. Those tires are coming up on eight years old. Replace them before the trip, yea or nay?
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Mar 2, 2024 07:36
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MrMojok posted:I have a really dumbass question. I apologize in advance. I am not a car person. Whereabouts do you live? Do you keep the car in a garage or has it been parked streetside? Googling around shows that tire life is pretty much maxed around 10 years, but if you have any kind of signs of issues with the tire (including low tread depth) I would replace them. Something that can happen with old tires is called 'dry rot', you get little cracks, here are some photos of that:    For what it's worth I go to a local used tire place when I get my tires done and get a set of 4 used tires with ~75% life left mounted and balanced for like 30% of the cost of getting new tires. I've been doing this forever. I get that not being a car person plays into this and you might not want to go somewhere that might take advantage of you, but I think that's going to be the same risk if you get new tires or used ones. Just wanted to say that you don't need to be looking down the barrel of a $1200 purchase when it comes to getting new tires.
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Mar 2, 2024 07:58
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All valid questions, and I should have thought more about my post and included more information. The car has lived its entire life in Los Angeles, and it has been garaged for the last four years when not driven. During those four years it has probably been driven ~1200 miles per year. I should have included pics of the tires, and I will soon. But the tread looks good.
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Mar 2, 2024 08:34
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MrMojok posted:All valid questions, and I should have thought more about my post and included more information. If they don't have the dry rot little cracks I'd say you're fine. You should just in case look up some youtube videos about how to put your spare tire on/use the jack in the trunk of your car.
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Mar 2, 2024 09:01
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Anyone got any advice on how to un-stick the offside rear brake drum/wheel on my 2005 Polo? Left it for a couple of weeks while I was away and it wouldn't un-stick when I tried it. Usually it will take a few revs to get the thing moving after some time sitting idle. This time it just drags the wheel like a lame gazelle. Took the wheel off, tried to take the brake drum cover off but it won't come off. Hit it a bit. Scraped around the seam between brake drum cover and the mounting, and levered it a bit with a flathead. No dice.       (I did take the cover screw out before trying to remove the drum cover - before anyone asks) (Also, yes I know this car is falling apart, am planning to get something new in a couple months just need it to tide me over till then) El Grillo fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Mar 2, 2024 |
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Mar 2, 2024 14:01
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I'm not sure how Volkswagen does it, but I was changing the rear brakes with my brother on his 2001 Ford Expedition, and there was a tab on the back that we had to smack in order to relieve tension on the parking brake (cable had snapped when our dad used the parkimg brake on the test drive.) Edit: https://youtu.be/lMx7MkXLRhY?si=RYF2l6xEQkEi6tzh Not the best video, but looks like there's a bar that you can pry that controls the parking brake. Also, uh, make sure your parking brake isn't on. DildenAnders fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Mar 2, 2024 |
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Mar 2, 2024 14:22
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Beat the absolute hell out of it. If you're wanting to save the drum hold a piece of wood against it and hit that with a hammer. A big hammer, hard, in multiple different spots and directions.
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Mar 2, 2024 14:26
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Yeah stuck drums usually just means going ogre mode
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Mar 2, 2024 15:55
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