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Eej posted:If you want further ideas, the Sisters community has some very motivated people making helpful posts for people just starting out. 
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Feb 25, 2024 20:39
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Not sure if this belongs in the mini-painting thread or not, but I'm really debating how I'm going to paint those pesky runes on that Librarian in Terminator armor from the Leviathan box. He's the last Terminator I need to paint. I'm debating on whether to leave the runes with a dark recess shade or to hit em with a thinned down bright blue. A lot of examples I've seen with bright recesses seem to look like it's super easy to overdo it and make the details look chonky. A lot of the runes on my model have too soft of detail to catch the liquid in a crisp way as well. I feel like canonically it makes sense for them to be glowing, since he's portrayed mid brain-blast with the model, but I want him to look as tidy as possible if he's going to be attached/ leading my Terminator squad. Anyone have any recommended methods, or should I jus leave em dark with some Nuln Oil? Aliensandwich fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Feb 25, 2024 |
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Feb 25, 2024 21:02
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Aliensandwich posted:Not sure if this belongs in the mini-painting thread or not, but I'm really debating how I'm going to paint those pesky runes on that Librarian in Terminator armor from the Leviathan box. He's the last Terminator I need to paint. Hit the runes with a pretty bright layer of color, first thing. Work around carefully while doing the general paint If necessary do a separate highlight touch at the end Any bleedover could be taken as 'eldritch glow lighting'.
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Feb 25, 2024 21:10
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Top tip: If you want them glowing X, don’t paint them that colour. Paint them pure white, then thick highlight around them with the colour you want, then highlight again with the colour you want plus white. The glow effect is just your brain telling you ‘the recess is white, must be hot in there!’ And it’ll happily colourise it for you, because our monkey brains love to do that.
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Feb 25, 2024 22:29
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There's a whole set of optical illusions based on contrast and the way a human perceives shadows and light. Which is one of the reasons why a model can look one way and then suddenly another after you reach a tipping point in colors or brightness of it. Which is why you can go overboard with stuff like weathering details as they will change the edge contrast of the model when you add too much.
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Feb 25, 2024 22:44
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Should I use something like a white ink instead of thinned acrylic? I've seen some videos of people using inks or thinned white oils with a nice quick/ clean spread throughout the recesses. Any luck with this?
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Feb 25, 2024 23:00
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Aliensandwich posted:Should I use something like a white ink instead of thinned acrylic? I've seen some videos of people using inks or thinned white oils with a nice quick/ clean spread throughout the recesses. Any luck with this? I personally would use a white oil pin wash, but a white ink should also work. Stephenls fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Feb 25, 2024 |
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Feb 25, 2024 23:20
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Any particular brands you recommend?
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Feb 26, 2024 01:10
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Ashcans posted:This is a good idea, just wanted to mention you can get a similar hack if you have a Battle Sisters box. They give you more special weapons than you can use, so you can salvage the extra bits of meltaguns and flamers to convert Seraphim bolt pistols into inferno pistols and flame pistols. You cut the clip and barrel off the bolt pistol and attack the special weapon barrel and ammo. Melta barrels are for converting Heavy Flamers into Multi Meltas 
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Feb 26, 2024 01:47
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Aliensandwich posted:Should I use something like a white ink instead of thinned acrylic? I've seen some videos of people using inks or thinned white oils with a nice quick/ clean spread throughout the recesses. Any luck with this? I wouldn't use a thinned acrylic as your reducing pigment density. Use an ink or thinned oil paint. Aliensandwich posted:Any particular brands you recommend? Best oil paint brands: You don't need the best in this instance. W&N, Williamsburg, Old Holland, Gamblin, Charvin, Rembrandt, etc will work well. Tbh for your first tube get the cheapest artist grade oil paint you can find (instead of student grade) specifically for the pigment density. Tubes come in all sizes so it should be rather inexpensive all things considered. Best inks: Liquitex is basically all I gently caress with. Daler-Rowney is also typically recommended but I've not liked it for the most part (YMMV). You want an opaque ink, so use titanium white.
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Feb 26, 2024 01:52
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Aliensandwich posted:Not sure if this belongs in the mini-painting thread or not it's cool to ask in both fwiw
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Feb 26, 2024 02:29
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I’m currently building a Repulsor Executioner and just wondering if there are any do’s or dont’s/tips and tricks for the clear hover stand?
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Feb 26, 2024 05:27
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I started putting together my first finecast model. gently caress finecast.
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Feb 26, 2024 14:30
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Nothing But Hate posted:I’m currently building a Repulsor Executioner and just wondering if there are any do’s or dont’s/tips and tricks for the clear hover stand? Honestly, just play with it until you see how it works and how to create the angle you want for your tank. I glued each half to the model and base before priming, on a Repulsor no one will even see it unless they pick the tank up. E: FeculentWizardTits posted:gently caress finecast. smug jeebus fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Feb 26, 2024 |
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Feb 26, 2024 15:42
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Took Custodes to a local RTT yesterday and placed 5th; the best of my attempts so far since really going after tournament gaming starting in January. The guy who beat me (CSM) got second and 1st was a Necron player with two monoliths and a tesseract vault, was a cool day. I’m really enjoying the tiny mini game of when to pop 4+++ on Wardens, what Ka’Tah to pick (especially in the opponent fight phase), and when to activate TJ’s moment shackle. It’s all at start of phase so there’s a lot of predictive thinking required.
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Feb 26, 2024 18:01
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Played my first game of 10th yesterday in our local Crusade league. My Black Templars held their own against the Votann, but ultimately lost. Still, a fun time!
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Feb 26, 2024 20:51
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Gonna sound like a lunatic for a second.... Is Drakenhof Nightshare just hosed? It's the one Shade that watermarks/stains every time, and I spend more time cleaning up blue for staining that any other colour. It's genuinely annoyed me enough I bought Tyran Blue to test with, but it's just way too bright, ends up making your blue areas look electric. Help me goons - I need alternatives to pin shade blue.
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Feb 26, 2024 23:39
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Shockeh posted:Gonna sound like a lunatic for a second.... DNS is one of my go-to shades, but maybe try some oil and thinner for pin washing? Way easier to clean up.
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Feb 27, 2024 01:06
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Need help from anyone who has ever sub assembled Blightlords: can the helmets go in after you have painted them separate from the bodies?
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Feb 27, 2024 02:29
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Professor Shark posted:Need help from anyone who has ever sub assembled Blightlords: can the helmets go in after you have painted them separate from the bodies? I didn't sub assemble mine but I'd say no - I think the gorget/hood is generally a smaller gap than the size of the head, I'm not sure if you can get it in there at all once the torso is assembled
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Feb 27, 2024 02:56
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Shockeh posted:Gonna sound like a lunatic for a second.... You may be doing this already, in which case sorry for telling you a thing you already know, but shades and contrasts both work a lot better if you start the tip of your brush so that when it hits the surface of your mini, it is in the recessed areas, so that if something pools or tide marks, it’s in a corner or a place with shade already. Like if you’re painting a pauldron, starting from the lower corner of one and then moving out to the wider area. It’s kind of a “duh” thing but I didn’t get it until someone told me.
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Feb 27, 2024 03:02
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Captain Magic posted:You may be doing this already, in which case sorry for telling you a thing you already know, but shades and contrasts both work a lot better if you start the tip of your brush so that when it hits the surface of your mini, it is in the recessed areas, so that if something pools or tide marks, it’s in a corner or a place with shade already. Like if you’re painting a pauldron, starting from the lower corner of one and then moving out to the wider area. It’s kind of a “duh” thing but I didn’t get it until someone told me. Some other things i have discovered: If you "paint" the recesses with water (i.e. if you're panel lining Tau), then you hit them with the shade paint, the shading will just follow the water all along the line without spilling out. The other thing you can do (maybe in combo) is just keep some cotton swabs handy and run them over the area to swab up all the excess shade thats outside the recess
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Feb 27, 2024 03:16
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That's the dumb thing; I find it more with this particular Shade.
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Feb 27, 2024 04:20
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ro5s posted:I didn't sub assemble mine but I'd say no - I think the gorget/hood is generally a smaller gap than the size of the head, I'm not sure if you can get it in there at all once the torso is assembled drat. I’m trying to figure out how I could paint/ shade behind it without getting excessive amounts on the helmet. I’m big into subbing, especially for helmets.
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Feb 27, 2024 11:52
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Warhammer 40k 10th Ed: I’m big into subbing
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Feb 27, 2024 12:16
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If you're not gonna see it from 3 feet away, don't sweat it
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Feb 27, 2024 12:20
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Yeah, the same gorget/hood means there’s no way at all to see the back half of any of the heads and frequently even more than that’s covered up
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Feb 27, 2024 14:07
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Got a rules question about Benefit of Cover. It says that BoC does not apply to models with a 3+ save or better against attacks with a 0AP weapon. Maybe I'm over complicating it, but it means that anything with a base save of 3+ (that is, the Save characteristic as printed on the datasheet) gets no BoC and cover is pretty much useless?
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Feb 27, 2024 16:43
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Super Waffle posted:Got a rules question about Benefit of Cover. It says that BoC does not apply to models with a 3+ save or better against attacks with a 0AP weapon. Maybe I'm over complicating it, but it means that anything with a base save of 3+ (that is, the Save characteristic as printed on the datasheet) gets no BoC and cover is pretty much useless? If they get shot at by a 0 AP weapon, yes, the cover doesn't do anything. If they got shot at by a -1 AP weapon, they'd still get a 3+ save. If they got shot at by a -2 AP weapon, they'd get a 4+ save, etc. GigaFuzz fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Feb 27, 2024 |
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Feb 27, 2024 17:02
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GigaFuzz posted:If they get shot at by a 0 AP weapon, yes, the cover doesn't do anything. Okay thank you! Makes much more sense. Our confusion i think comes from us playing completely wrong; we were using AP to modify the Toughness of the model being hit and basing the Wound roll on that, and saving with no modifiers.
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Feb 27, 2024 18:35
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Basically there was a problem where Marines standing in cover were getting 2+ saves against bolter fire which basically made them immune to it.
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Feb 27, 2024 23:28
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Has anyone else always thought it was dumb that cover adds to armor saves instead of subtracting from hit rolls?
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Feb 28, 2024 00:04
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OctaMurk posted:Some other things i have discovered: Darcy Bono's got a great tutorial on this for shading - cover the entire panel with Lahmian medium and then apply your shade wash and you can mess around with it as much as you want without tide marks. It behaves like a pseudo-oil wash though much more laborious and expensive - you have to do it panel by panel and the working time is still in the order of minutes.
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Feb 28, 2024 00:13
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Sherbert Hoover posted:Has anyone else always thought it was dumb that cover adds to armor saves instead of subtracting from hit rolls? I think this is to model something like a missile or lascannon hitting the concrete and punching through.
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Feb 28, 2024 00:15
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Time to bring back 3rd edition or whatever cover save that game you a 4+ save no matter what.
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Feb 28, 2024 00:28
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Sherbert Hoover posted:Has anyone else always thought it was dumb that cover adds to armor saves instead of subtracting from hit rolls? Yes, in Epic: Armageddon all cover gives an automatic -1 to hit. It is a great system and it means anything, regardless of armor, benefits from cover no matter what.
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Feb 28, 2024 00:43
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Sherbert Hoover posted:Has anyone else always thought it was dumb that cover adds to armor saves instead of subtracting from hit rolls? Have you ever played Orks? 
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Feb 28, 2024 00:56
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Sherbert Hoover posted:Has anyone else always thought it was dumb that cover adds to armor saves instead of subtracting from hit rolls? 2nd edition had cover provide a -1 to hit for 'soft' cover and a -2 for 'hard cover'. It also had about fourteen other modifiers for speed, distance, etc. and also allowed you to roll for higher than 6+ to hit (7 to hit was rolling a 6 followed by a 4+). When the game simplified in 3rd this is the kind of thing they stripped out. Cover providing armor is because they wanted to have it be effective without having hit modifiers, and it's just kind of stayed there even as we put hit modifiers back in for other reasons.
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Feb 28, 2024 01:24
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Sherbert Hoover posted:Has anyone else always thought it was dumb that cover adds to armor saves instead of subtracting from hit rolls? Nah, I like that standing behind some bushes has no mechanical benefit for a bloke encased in ceramite VS incoming lasgun fire.
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Feb 28, 2024 01:31
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Ashcans posted:2nd edition had cover provide a -1 to hit for 'soft' cover and a -2 for 'hard cover'. It also had about fourteen other modifiers for speed, distance, etc. and also allowed you to roll for higher than 6+ to hit (7 to hit was rolling a 6 followed by a 4+). When the game simplified in 3rd this is the kind of thing they stripped out. Cover providing armor is because they wanted to have it be effective without having hit modifiers, and it's just kind of stayed there even as we put hit modifiers back in for other reasons. The weird thing was they had the -1 to hit from forests that made them interestingly different as soft instead of hard cover then just ditched it for 10th
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Feb 28, 2024 01:39
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