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The Ynnari as a faction have to exist because the Craftworlds conceptually exist to prolong but not avert their eventual diminishment as a race.
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Mar 5, 2024 20:03
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Cease to Hope posted:
It's bloody confusing that's what it is. Model Air Steel and Gunmetal are excellent colours and only very slightly inferior to Metal Colour. However if you want the really shiny Metal Colour finish you really need to start with a gloss black underlayer. I've found that Metal Colour over regular primer/paint doesn't look all that different to Model Air metallics. You can also brush it on but it's apparently super good at shredding brushes? Metal Colour looks really good filtered with Contrast paint. I love candy paint jobs and all of mine are over Metal Colour. The scale car builders will say Alclad Chrome is the superior product but Metal Colour is a million times less finicky and toxic.
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Mar 5, 2024 20:09
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I got an airbrush almost entirely for priming because rattle cans suck and have ruined enough models to piss me off. I don't even really use it for painting all that much. I just get perfect primer of whatever color I want in any atmospheric conditions and any phase of the moon. White can be a bit tedious with dry tip but I power through it and do not miss rattle cans at all.
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Mar 5, 2024 20:17
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Cooked Auto posted:There was a bevy of jokes in the meme circles of Warhammer recently about Russ freeing Isha from the Gardens of Nurgle. Russ disappeared looking for a Tree of Life somewhere out in the warp. Life Tree = Life Goddess probably.
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Mar 5, 2024 20:21
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How long until we see 3D print files of these guys? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lknNsZgzG1g oh that was fast
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Mar 5, 2024 20:49
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Appreciate all the painting advice ITT, my random and stupid selection of citadel paints has been enhanced and I think this will give me a lot more flexibility 
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Mar 5, 2024 20:55
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Triskelli posted:Russ disappeared looking for a Tree of Life somewhere out in the warp. Life Tree = Life Goddess probably. That's a very specific tree that dog needs to take a piss on.
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Mar 5, 2024 21:11
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Cease to Hope posted:if you want to spend citadel prices on metallic paints, look at vallejo metal color. it's a line made with aluminum flakes rather than the usual mica, so the particles are much finer and thus look less like sparky confetti and more like metal. (it's like long-time scale modeler favorite alclad II, but without the pain of lacquer paints.) aluminium 77.701 is incredible and all you really need, but they have a half-dozen variations on it that are basically that plus a bit of an ink to adjust the hue. Vallejo in general has seriously fantastic metals. The air series is perfectly thinned, and the Liquid series (alcohol based as opposed to their traditional water based formula) is drop dead sexy. You have to be stricter in your methodology when applying it though as it can rust if you're not careful. Results are worth it though. Lostconfused posted:You can also get hardware store primer like rustoleum. And remember for speed/contrast paints you want a lighter shade of grey. Nessus posted:Get the flat primer. I had great results from krylon 2x flat black. ^^^agreed, the 2x flats are wonderful and comparatively inexpensive to the rest of the spraycan prices in the hobby. But airbrush supremacy is where is really at. Frog Act posted:Also, for textured paints, I'm grabbing: Awesome texture paints. You shouldn't need the pigment binder for them though. What you can use that binder for however is raw pigment powder or various colored chalks! Crush the chalks into dust, apply to your model with a completely dry brush, then spritz the pigment binder on it. I'm not sure how to apply the binder with a brush. In fact I'm sure someone else will have better tips on applying the binder, I myself have only ever used varnish for the stuff. As for other poo poo to buy, go on aliexpress and get a paint shaker/vortex mixer for a 1/2 the price of normal so you don't have to blow your elbows out shaking paint. Maybe they're cheap on Amazon now, I'm unsure as I bought mine years ago. If you want to avoid that but still want tools to help shake paint up, some people like putting steel balls in their paint as agitators; don't do this they'll rust. Use glass beads instead. If your eyes suck (like mine) then get a pair of magnifier glasses. I basically wear them 24/7 when modeling now. It's always good to have matte, satin, and gloss varnish. Vallejo comes to the rescue again in that department.
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Mar 5, 2024 21:30
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The Demilich posted:Vallejo in general has seriously fantastic metals. The air series is perfectly thinned, and the Liquid series (alcohol based as opposed to their traditional water based formula) is drop dead sexy. You have to be stricter in your methodology when applying it though as it can rust if you're not careful. Results are worth it though. Ah poo poo I knew i was forgetting something - those glasses are exactly what I need. I also never would have thought of that re: the binder but my GF is an actual artist so we have tons jd stuff like that hanging around, might be able to do something cool with them Definitely open to any other textured paint related tips anyone might have, gonna start out carefully applying them to bases before flocking small areas and/or Tuft Application
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Mar 5, 2024 21:50
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The Demilich posted:tons of helpful stuff... What do you recommend as an airbrush primer that matches the WraithBone rattle-can color the closest? I want models to match one's that I've already primed with wraithbone, but If I can avoid ever having to buy another rattle-can, that would be a huge bonus!
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Mar 6, 2024 00:03
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Triskelli posted:Russ disappeared looking for a Tree of Life somewhere out in the warp. Life Tree = Life Goddess probably. I really like the idea of Russ freeing her and falling for her, like some viking who married a foreign princess and just didn’t return home, throwing the Imperium for a loop Hallo, I found a pretty princess and she smells so nice!  Also, I’m not coming back!!!
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Mar 6, 2024 01:29
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Mjolnerd posted:What do you recommend as an airbrush primer that matches the WraithBone rattle-can color the closest? I've not used Wraithbone itself so I can't say how exactly close it is, but I mix Badger Stynylrez neutral yellow primer + some white primer to get a suitably warm bone color.
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Mar 6, 2024 01:47
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Instead of glass bead agitators I use hematite jewelry beads. Little heavier and still don't rust.
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Mar 6, 2024 02:55
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Re: metallics, just to contribute I use Snakebite Leather contrast over AP gunmetal for all my iron Warriors trim. Gives a really greasy, oily looking dark bronze.
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Mar 6, 2024 03:17
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I haven't used wraithbone either but this is what the primer in my bottle of Vallejo grey looks like after application, under white light.Lostconfused posted:Vallejo grey I sprayed on this morning Edit: searching for images on wratihbone on google does make it look warmer than that though.
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Mar 6, 2024 03:32
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I think it's heavily dependent on lighting and cameras.
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Mar 6, 2024 03:40
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:I'm not sure what you mean, to me it just looks like a nice light-ish gold. Can I ask how you got the colour effect on the red panels? I assume stippling / sponging various layers of red? My titans are Legio Vulpa as well, and I always liked the almost leather-like effect you see on a lot of them, but could never quite replicate it myself.
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Mar 6, 2024 03:50
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Mjolnerd posted:What do you recommend as an airbrush primer that matches the WraithBone rattle-can color the closest? darnon posted:I've not used Wraithbone itself so I can't say how exactly close it is, but I mix Badger Stynylrez neutral yellow primer + some white primer to get a suitably warm bone color. Vallejo Desert Tan is the closest match for a primer, albeit slightly slightly darker. For a non primer Vallejo Aged White is a good approximation. You could probably throw a few drops of a very light grey into Desert Tan and nail wraithbone that way. Another option is possibly Stynylrez Light Flesh primer. The Stynylrez recommendation is iffy just because it seems there's no good swatches online showing the color besides the bottle itself, and I found 3x different pics of the same bottle with different white balances lol Anyway, color swatches: GW Wraithbone:  Vallejo Desert Tan primer:  Normal paints that also decent approximation for the record: Vallejo Aged White:  Golden Titan Buff (this is the furthest away from the other recs, but Golden is quality so I'm including it)  Now I also found a comment that said "3 parts badger white primer to 1 part badger neutral yellow" to get very close to wraithbone. Since I have Badgers White Stynylrez primer I tried making wraithbone myself. See below:  Left half of the base is wraithbone, right side what I mixed. The swatches above are 3:1 white & (from left to right): transparent raw sienna, transparent burnt sienna, transparent raw umber, transparent burnt umber  Wraithbone in the upper left corner. I ended up with Stynylrez White primer, Liquitex Transparent Raw Umber ink, and Stynylrez Grey primer in a ratio of 10:1:1 drops approximately matching it. Not perfect, but good enough. The Demilich fucked around with this message at 09:44 on Mar 6, 2024 |
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Mar 6, 2024 05:08
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Wait, horus heresy marines are almost the same size as the new 40k bigger boys?
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Mar 6, 2024 05:09
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Yes and no. They're about half a head shorter but also their arms, torsos and legs are thinner so overall a Primaris does look noticeably bigger than a HH marine in real life. If you put Primaris arms on a HH marine they will end up looking like a gorilla. Shoulders and helmets are the same size though so you can those around freely but some Primaris heads look a little too big on a HH body.
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Mar 6, 2024 05:21
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Angry_Nohman posted:Can I ask how you got the colour effect on the red panels? I assume stippling / sponging various layers of red? That's supposed to be Legio Audax  The red is stippled Gal Vorbak red, then a Gal Vorbak/Mephiston Red mix, then pure Mephiston, then a tiny amount of a Mephiston/Vallejo Orange Red mix. I tried to keep it lighter at the bottom of the panels to give the impression of embers/fire, the effect is more subtle in person.
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Mar 6, 2024 09:06
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I was inspired by Nothing But Hate's work a few pages ago, and since I had a torso with no legs I figured it was the perfect time to put that inspiration to work. It's just a skeletal frame made out of wire, a few steel screens from my THC stash, a used glue stem, and a tiny bit of milliput. The screens and plastic glue stem/leg covering are to help give some support to the green stuff drapery that will get thrown on it.   I need to figure out the style of robe, drape, and how/if to integrate the bottom robe to the upper torso. Then again I could ignore it and just do an Iron Warrior Broly type of thing.
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Mar 6, 2024 11:23
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Points update is out. Dark Angels suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.
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Mar 6, 2024 17:37
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BizarroAzrael posted:Points update is out. Dark Angels suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck. A return to tradition.
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Mar 6, 2024 17:38
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BizarroAzrael posted:Points update is out. Dark Angels suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck. Aside from 9th where they absolutely sucked to play against, what's new
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Mar 6, 2024 17:38
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Huh, actually it seems there were a bunch of changes, it's just only the Ravenwing Command marked in red on the pdf: https://www.goonhammer.com/the-goonhammer-hot-take-dark-angels-points-update/ So it's actually not as bad as I thought, just not good either.
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Mar 6, 2024 23:16
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BizarroAzrael posted:Huh, actually it seems there were a bunch of changes, it's just only the Ravenwing Command marked in red on the pdf: https://www.goonhammer.com/the-goonhammer-hot-take-dark-angels-points-update/ That comparison is against the (placeholder) point values in the supplement book, while the change in red is compared against the digital MFM points values released at the end of January. The former is significantly closer to what DA had at the start of the edition, due to the unavoidable delays involved with printing & distribution. It's weird for Goonhammer to do an article like this because literally no one expected the printed points to be used unedited.
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Mar 7, 2024 00:00
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Gotta make content I guess.
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Mar 7, 2024 00:39
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Content for the content gods.
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Mar 7, 2024 00:53
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Content for the Click gods.
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Mar 7, 2024 00:56
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So I have my first ever Finecast model, from a built to order run GW did back in October and, well, are there any tricks or traps for getting it off the sprue I should be aware of? I know that if I have to do any filing, I should do so with a good mask or respirator because but that's the extent of what I've heard.
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Mar 7, 2024 01:53
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rantmo posted:So I have my first ever Finecast model, from a built to order run GW did back in October and, well, are there any tricks or traps for getting it off the sprue I should be aware of? I know that if I have to do any filing, I should do so with a good mask or respirator because but that's the extent of what I've heard. I got a few GW resin kits and just snipped them off the sprue like I would plastic parts
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Mar 7, 2024 02:39
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Yeah, had no real issues cutting them off normally. And I think non-FW resin doesn't use the same mould release agents so you don't have to wash them. But don't quote me on that though.
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Mar 7, 2024 03:05
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I wanted to run Lucius the Eternal in my CSM army but didn't want to use GW's ancient model for him so I printed & painted this up.   
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Mar 7, 2024 04:11
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I don't think I've painted a single thing for almost two weeks now. I've been so busy gluing stuff together and figuring out how I'm going to move and transport it. Finally rounding up 2000 points worth of stuff shifted my perspective so much, now I'm obsessed with planning out how I can get a game in instead of figuring out a paintjob, but also I still need to figure out the paintjob.
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Mar 7, 2024 04:24
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Just wanted to say this is awesome, I’m really digging the feet. I can’t wait to see how it turns out and I’m glad I could provide some inspiration.
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Mar 7, 2024 06:00
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Man those new Darkoath figures would make a sick base for some feral world guardsmen. drat I really don't need a second army .
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Mar 7, 2024 14:38
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xtothez posted:It's weird for Goonhammer to do an article like this because literally no one expected the printed points to be used unedited. It's an update to their review of the codex, which also said that the printed points are unlikely to be used and that they'd post an update when the points were released.
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Mar 7, 2024 15:37
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I've been cursed with knowledge that Chessex dice are not perfectly balanced.
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Mar 7, 2024 16:22
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RangerScum posted:I wanted to run Lucius the Eternal in my CSM army but didn't want to use GW's ancient model for him so I printed & painted this up. This is awesome.
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Mar 7, 2024 16:41
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