|
Leperflesh posted:which pieces, where? Is there a backing or are the screws resisting racking forces? What do you mean by the pocket hole's "thickness"? Here's a clip of the sketchup. I want to use the screws to hold these pieces in place while the glue dries. 
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2024 18:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 11:47 |
|
|
The Slack Lagoon posted:Here's a clip of the sketchup. I want to use the screws to hold these pieces in place while the glue dries. Not what you asked but I would also dado those dividers into the shelf, even if it's juat a 1/16" deep dado. It helps a ton with assembly and keeping everything square.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2024 20:05
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
Thanks for this, unfortunately I've already cut the wood but I'm going to keep it in mind for future projects.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2024 20:56
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That should be fine. You might split the shelf if it is solid wood just because you have two screws in the same spot but it should be fine with plywood. And the perfect opportunity to build your own dado jig! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Da7OPBN4RKE&t=571s
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2024 22:30
|
|
|
I made one of these  Walnut and ash, I believe. Found the wood on the side of the road. I wish it was a tad thicker but it'll do.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2024 23:44
|
|
|
Nice mallet! There's few things as satisfying as whacking something with a heavy homemade hammer, in my experience.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 00:15
|
|
|
Thanks, can't wait to start hitting things with it, it's far too pretty right now. Ash seems like a good wood for the handle. We'll see how long the head holds up though. Can always make a new one
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 00:18
|
|
|
dupersaurus posted:Oh yeah map cabinet is a good term, I’ll dig around there. Finally got around to doing it   All butt joints and pocket screws in the tradition of the finest in shop furniture. I'm going to eventually give it a clean front, but other parts of this project have priority. Shout out to the kreg track saw I bought for this, I'm sure the more expensive ones do things better but it's a trooper and definitely saved me $300 worth of effort
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 19:30
|
|
|
Looks good, that's basically the same construction I used for my two workbenches drawers, except I stapled on a 1/4" bottom. You'll be able to load those drawers with lead bricks with no problems.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 19:41
|
|
|
That’s a great job and a track saw is still on my to get list. Making a little side table for the couch that sneaks around the couch leg.  Going for hero points, I asked the local shop to laser in the paw print of her first dog she bought on her own. Have to fill it with clear epoxy and sand flush before finishing. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 22:42
|
|
|
Cedar chapter 2: Stripped, sanded with 120, looks way better (right  ) The end grain is super dark, is that just how it be now from absorbing varnish or should I give it more sanding attention? I don’t mind much either way I’m just not sure what I’m looking at. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2024 00:08
|
|
|
yeah end grain is always going to suck up whatever is applied, way more than side grain. In theory you can sand in far enough to get rid of it but that "far enough" could be a lot more table than you want to grind away. And to the eye, darker end grain doesn't really look too bad, since sometimes wood species show darker end grain anyway. IMO that looks pretty good at this point!
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2024 00:11
|
|
|
Thanks! I knew end grain sucks up more stuff so I think I’m just gonna go with it as long as it won’t cause problems later. I’m gonna clean up a few spots and hit it with 220 and call that sanded I think, then I’ll be back to ask about finishes after I’ve read up on that. then having learned on the lid I get to do the rest of the loving thing, polish the hardware, etc 
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2024 00:17
|
|
|
Looking good, good luck with the rest of it!
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2024 00:32
|
|
|
Hey woodfolk, been a bit since I’ve popped in. I’m looking for thoughts on finishing hevea/rubberwood, curious if anyone’s messed with that. Specifically, casting it significantly darker, like almost something that’d normally get labeled as espresso or similar, without just filling the open pores with stain. Seems to behave a lot like oak in that regard, but I’m after an even overall darkening. Tried a few stain-based options, all met with similar results, thinking my next step is to throw some dye at it and see how that goes. Anyone here been down this road and had success? I have plenty of scrap to test on, but I’d rather not  the budget on finish options I won’t actually use.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2024 01:37
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Hey woodfolk, been a bit since I’ve popped in.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2024 02:14
|
|
|
Yeah, I tried gel, and got kind of the same results as regular stain. Maybe a bit more color overall, but it collected in the pores a ton anyhow. May be a moot point, the person I’m doing this for actually really likes the results of plain old natural danish oil. Which I agree with, that stuff is great at emphasizing chatoyancy and such.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2024 03:58
|
|
|
Okay well the hyperfocus is kicking my rear end tonight so I am thinking about cedar finishes anyway. The stuff I'm reading seems to suggest that some finishes don't take to aromatic cedar very well because of the oil in the wood, and I see people suggesting dewaxed shellac first as a sealer and some oil based finish on top of that. I don't have strong opinions yet about how I want it to look other than avoiding mega gloss and anything that will darken over time if possible. With this stripped-down-to-varnish photos as a reference: I think "several shades lighter and natural cedar palette instead of Brown" is in the neighborhood of what I want. Having a time finding photos to go off as examples since so much of what's out there is decking, even if I search for 'aromatic cedar' 
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2024 04:07
|
|
|
I built a japanese style toolbox and immediately filled it with poo poo
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2024 22:52
|
|
|
I went back to the antique store to get the greenwood saw I was keeping an eye on and the owner said he was saving a broken saw to give me for free
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 21:15
|
|
|
It looks as if a child drew a saw blade.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 21:39
|
|
|
it's for loving up the forest where the trees live. taking the battle to them. the weird fishtail teeth are "rakes" to scoop out sticky sawdust
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 21:42
|
|
|
HappyHippo posted:I made one of these Hell yeah
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 22:22
|
|
|
PokeJoe posted:it's for loving up the forest where the trees live. taking the battle to them. the weird fishtail teeth are "rakes" to scoop out sticky sawdust apprentice sawmaker when someone made fun of his decorative saw with a cute profile of their little village: no.. its a uhh... its for loving up trees
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 14:47
|
|
|
PokeJoe posted:I went back to the antique store to get the greenwood saw I was keeping an eye on and the owner said he was saving a broken saw to give me for free Cow tools.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 23:08
|
|
|
There is a black cherry tree in my backyard that needs to come down. Its trunk is about 2 ft in diameter at the base, and goes straight up for maybe 20 ft. I want to get the wood milled, and I'm curious what you all would want in terms of board dimensions? I don't have a specific project in mind, so the goal is just to produce wood that is likely to be helpful in the future. I've spoken with the arborist who would take the tree down, and he's on board with the idea. He has a miller that they use sometimes. I could also use advice for storing the boards while they dry out. I was figuring I'd make a box out of 2x4s and plywood outside, with a plastic roof. Do I need to protect the wood from pests?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 13:30
|
|
|
go as big as you can get. you can always rip a 2x12 down to 2x4 but you cant do the opposite
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 15:52
|
|
|
Unless I have a specific project in mind that needs fuckin huge timbers I tend to get mostly 5/4, as wide as possible. After surfacing that'll translate to a bit over an inch which is a generally good all-purpose hardwood size, ¾" works too but 4/4s are a bit too prone to warping. get the timbers like three inches off the ground, preferably not on dirt, keep the rain off them, sticker and secure them down tight with ratchet straps to keep them from warping. The storage shed I was keeping my last batch in flooded and everything was just hanging out over a puddle for months and when I broke up the stack it was all fine
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Mar 7, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 17:54
|
|
|
Thanks, good to know that storage should be straightforward. And good call on the ratchet straps. I was trying to imagine stacking big weights on the boards to keep the wood from moving too much, but straps would be way easier and more consistent.  Width is a no-brainer, as much as possible is obvious. I guess I was mostly wondering whether I should bother getting any 8/4 or thicker wood out of this. It'd use up a lot of wood and take longer to dry, are the obvious down sides, but if I wanted to use the wood for stuff like legs, or large table tops, then extra thickness is warranted. Then again, you can always laminate thinner boards together again...
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 18:05
|
|
|
8/4 would take about 2 years to dry, it's totally fine to do 8/4 especially if you're going to have very wide slabs. But you said 24" at the base, which after you remove bark etc. most of your length will be more like 18" or less, and I think 8/4 is a bit overkill for most projects at that width. 6/4 is an OK compromise but a bit too thin to resaw, you wind up with less than 3/4 roughsawn and then surfaced you're down to a pretty thin piece, so that "compromise" is really committing to working with something that will end up at an inch and a quarter thick or so. If you have a project in mind for that that's fine. If you don't, I agree with the folks saying 5/4 as your default "this will be useful for a lot of projects" lumber, and 8/4 for large slabs, or for specific projects like you suggested.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 18:41
|
|
|
When I've gotten logs sawn I've always gotten it just straight flitch sawn through and through rather than cutting it into a square cant and flipping a bunch to saw for grade. I've usually gotten the middle stuff that comes out roughly quartsawn sawn 8/4 on the theory that if I ever want to resaw it back down to thinner stuff, the quartersawn grain should allow that without too much warping. Make sure wherever it winds up stacked and stickered that air is able to circulate. Don't put it under a tarp and if you put it in a shed or basement or something, ideally run a dehumidifier because ALOT of water is going to come out as vapor and the the lower the humidity, the faster it will dry. As far as bugs, I would treat it with Boracare, but powderpost beetles are particularly rampant here. The Forest Products Lab has some good free publications on sawing/drying wood, and I know Dr. Gene Wengert who posts alot on woodweb has done some publications on home solar kilns. Adding 'gene wengert' to googling for wood drying info will get you alot of useful stuff.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 19:55
|
|
|
Personally I rarely find all that much use for stuff that thick unless you're getting into actual architecture, it can be handy to have a little on hand for heavy-duty dining table legs but like you said it's not hard to double up if you need to, and imo good design is sturdy and stable and *light*, 2" thick tabletops are a thing you grow out of when you stop watching youtube clickbait and learn about aprons
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 21:56
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:When I've gotten logs sawn I've always gotten it just straight flitch sawn through and through rather than cutting it into a square cant and flipping a bunch to saw for grade. I've usually gotten the middle stuff that comes out roughly quartsawn sawn 8/4 on the theory that if I ever want to resaw it back down to thinner stuff, the quartersawn grain should allow that without too much warping. Make sure wherever it winds up stacked and stickered that air is able to circulate. Don't put it under a tarp and if you put it in a shed or basement or something, ideally run a dehumidifier because ALOT of water is going to come out as vapor and the the lower the humidity, the faster it will dry. As far as bugs, I would treat it with Boracare, but powderpost beetles are particularly rampant here. Thanks! Makes sense to do the middle portion thicker than the others. Just to make sure I understand completely, flitch sawn is what you'd typically get from an Alaskan mill or similar, right? I.e. all cuts are parallel to each other and go all the way through their portion of the log? I found this article on solar kiln plans; I'm guessing that's about what you were describing? I'll have to dry these outside, I don't have room for this much wood in any enclosed space. Like, assuming that the average trunk diameter is 20" and I get 3x 6' sections, we're talking roughly 600 board feet of lumber here. A Wizard of Goatse posted:Personally I rarely find all that much use for stuff that thick unless you're getting into actual architecture, it can be handy to have a little on hand for heavy-duty dining table legs but like you said it's not hard to double up if you need to, and imo good design is sturdy and stable and *light*, 2" thick tabletops are a thing you grow out of when you stop watching youtube clickbait and learn about aprons Massive quantities of thick wood are definitely not something I care about, for sure. But I often find that the legs need to be thicker purely for the sake of aesthetics. Even if a well-designed piece of furniture would be perfectly functional with 1"-thick legs, it still looks wrong.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 22:32
|
|
|
I prefer 2"/52 mm stock for legs. You can face glue 2 boards together sure, but I find that not very aesthetically pleasing with the lack of grain continuity. Or for resawing into drawer stock, 52 mm rough gets 3 12 mm finished boards and some left over for bottoms.A Wizard of Goatse posted:Personally I rarely find all that much use for stuff that thick unless you're getting into actual architecture, it can be handy to have a little on hand for heavy-duty dining table legs but like you said it's not hard to double up if you need to, and imo good design is sturdy and stable and *light*, 2" thick tabletops are a thing you grow out of when you stop watching youtube clickbait and learn about aprons Hairpin leg industry in shambles.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 22:41
|
|
|
This depends a lot on style. A craftsman or mission style table can have thicc legs  a picnic bench or trestle table maybe even more chonky  But there are styles even within the mission aesthetic that have much more slender gams  and then some styles like this eduardian table want thin legs that taper down towards the floor  or perhaps turned legs, which probably have to come from larger stock  There's countless style options so it's really up to you what you want to make. But if you saw everything to really thick widths just to "keep your options open" you're going to have a shitload of resawing to do, which is finicky and can be risky if the board warps badly (see Kaiser's comment about quartersawn), whereas if you saw to 5/4 you probably are limiting your options somewhat but also at the start of a project before doing any resawing you'll actually know how much usable yield you have from your wood pile. And, IMO, if you later decide you need some big fat chunks of cherry to do some legs, well, it's not exactly a rare wood, you can just buy more wood. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Mar 7, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 22:45
|
|
|
I was talking more about the uses of 2" wood in general, but if you're sawing it yourself 33 or 40 mm is chunky enough generally, unless you have something in mind for it like saddled chair seats where you really need the starting thickness to have something to carve away.
Just Winging It fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Mar 7, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 22:56
|
|
|
yeah like with a lot of things it's a lot easier if you have a project in mind in advance but when you're milling wood that will be a year or two to dry, perhaps you don't, so like, you want flexibility but also not massive hunks that are a PITA to deal with and take longer to dry and have more waste from checking
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2024 23:07
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:This depends a lot on style. worth noting that everything in this one looks to be made out of 1x6s but yeah comes down to a style thing and having some general idea what you tend to do. I've been gradually working towards a library of designs that all use the same standard dimensions for everything cause I've got a lot of lumber in weird sizes or a weird one-off species that's been sitting around unused for years, if I was making a bunch of beds or dining tables every year 2" stock would be a larger portion of that but they're uncommon enough that the ones that show up on my rack tend to gather dust A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Mar 8, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2024 04:23
|
|
|
A Wizard of Goatse posted:worth noting that everything in this one looks to be made out of 1x6s
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2024 04:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 11:47 |
|
|
Pretty sure every leg in that post is at least 1 1/2" in its smallest dimension (not counting the tapers, but they're tapered from larger stock)
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2024 04:30
|
|
