AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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Safety Dance: Sep 10, 2007; Five degrees to starboard!

kastein posted:

I should also mention that this is a Drive Deviant event. It is an explicitly pro LGBT, leftist car club. Straights welcome, right wingers absolutely not.

This is right up my alley. How can I find out more about the Washington chapter?

# ? Mar 9, 2024 20:26

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# ? Apr 29, 2024 08:54

Giganticon: Mar 10, 2010; Pillbug

My sister has a 2018 Corolla she put in a ditch on its side, one of the airbags went off but damage was light. Insurance declared it totaled but she had it repaired anyways out of pocket, front passenger wheel/suspension was damaged but mechanics claim they were able to just replace damaged parts as nothing critical got bent. They also replaced the spent airbag. This all took about a year as the mechanic was a friend of an ex etc good old boy network, in the meantime she got a different vehicle, she is planning to get rid of the Corolla. I was considering taking it off her hands to use as a daily driver.

This leads to my stupid question - her mechanic told her that the last step that needs to be done to get this as good as new is to recalibrate the airbag. My sister has told me that the seatbelt is seized - it won't extend of retract. I don't think calibrating an airbag is a thing, so I looked it up - I think what is going on is because she rolled her car there is a unit with accelerometers or something in it that trips when a car rolls. I assume that is what has locked up the seatbelt? Because if you are upside down it doesn't want to drop you? These units can be reset but you have to move them into different positions to tell it what is upright, which sounds like it could be this calibration. Or maybe by calibrate he just meant tell the computer the new airbag's ID? I assume you just need a Toyota computer interface that knows how to do this.

If its not clear all of this info has been filtered between 2 people neither of whom knows much. Here is my confusion - the mechanic seemed to indicate that if this could be reset the resale value would be very high, but now it is pretty low. He suggested she sell it for 6k, but if she could sell it to a mechanic they could get more like 11 or 12, its low milage and in good shape. So why didn't he just reset the thing? I suspect because this work was done not on insurance this has a clean title, but if you use the Toyota computer to reset the "flipped in a ditch" sensor it might somehow activate a branding of the title. Do mechanisms like this exist? Seem like they should to protect people. I think his scheme is to leave that last step undone so she could hypothetically do something tricky to hide the wreck if she so choses.

Does this seem plausible? Is this worth digging into? I'm planning to buy it from her, reset the seatbelt and have it inspected to make sure last mechanic was correct about suspension, and then use it as a commuter and if that's the case title brands don't matter. But even so if doing that halves the resale value I want to go into that with eyes open, maybe give my sister a chance to actually make some money off it instead of taking her car for half price. Thanks for the advice goons.

# ? Mar 9, 2024 20:46

Leperflesh: May 17, 2007

2003 mazda protege5, 168k miles

In Feb 2023, the car failed smog check, it had an exhaust leak, took apart the exhaust manifold and found this mess,

I fixed that poo poo; cleaned surfaces, new gaskets, reassembled. It passed smog after this so I was reasonably confident that the parts I hosed with are fixed now. However car has been sitting a lot and when we drive it it stumbles at idle a bit and drives rough and has even stalled a couple of times. Finally it threw a CEL so we immediately parked it.

I finally bothered to get an ODBII bluetooth reader and I am getting P0171 on Bank 1, a lean condition. The voltage graph for oxygen sensor 1 jumps up and down a lot while 2 is more smooth, and the car is trying to adjust fuel like as much as 17% to try and compensate.

This is all at idle:

The MAF reading moves a lot slower

and oxygen sensor 2 is pretty slow and flat

This is at ~1500rpms

Here's a diagram of the exhaust system for this vehicle from the service manual

The internet gives very basic advice for P0171, like, clean the MAF, check the oxygen sensor on the exhaust, look for vacuum leaks, etc. I am hoping you folks can help me narrow that down. I think I replaced #1, HO2S (front) last year when I had the exhaust system open, but I'm not totally sure if it's that sensor or #11 (rear) that is showing the spikes and I'm also not 100% sure if I replaced either one. It seems likely that what's going on here is my incompetence, right? I've somehow failed to get this poo poo together tight, it's sucking in air somewhere and so the car's trying to compensate for a lean condition? Or maybe I just need to clean these sensors?

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Mar 9, 2024

# ? Mar 9, 2024 22:22

IOwnCalculus: Apr 2, 2003

Giganticon posted:

My sister has a 2018 Corolla she put in a ditch on its side, one of the airbags went off but damage was light. Insurance declared it totaled but she had it repaired anyways out of pocket, front passenger wheel/suspension was damaged but mechanics claim they were able to just replace damaged parts as nothing critical got bent. They also replaced the spent airbag. This all took about a year as the mechanic was a friend of an ex etc good old boy network, in the meantime she got a different vehicle, she is planning to get rid of the Corolla. I was considering taking it off her hands to use as a daily driver.

This leads to my stupid question - her mechanic told her that the last step that needs to be done to get this as good as new is to recalibrate the airbag. My sister has told me that the seatbelt is seized - it won't extend of retract. I don't think calibrating an airbag is a thing, so I looked it up - I think what is going on is because she rolled her car there is a unit with accelerometers or something in it that trips when a car rolls. I assume that is what has locked up the seatbelt? Because if you are upside down it doesn't want to drop you? These units can be reset but you have to move them into different positions to tell it what is upright, which sounds like it could be this calibration. Or maybe by calibrate he just meant tell the computer the new airbag's ID? I assume you just need a Toyota computer interface that knows how to do this.

If its not clear all of this info has been filtered between 2 people neither of whom knows much. Here is my confusion - the mechanic seemed to indicate that if this could be reset the resale value would be very high, but now it is pretty low. He suggested she sell it for 6k, but if she could sell it to a mechanic they could get more like 11 or 12, its low milage and in good shape. So why didn't he just reset the thing? I suspect because this work was done not on insurance this has a clean title, but if you use the Toyota computer to reset the "flipped in a ditch" sensor it might somehow activate a branding of the title. Do mechanisms like this exist? Seem like they should to protect people. I think his scheme is to leave that last step undone so she could hypothetically do something tricky to hide the wreck if she so choses.

Does this seem plausible? Is this worth digging into? I'm planning to buy it from her, reset the seatbelt and have it inspected to make sure last mechanic was correct about suspension, and then use it as a commuter and if that's the case title brands don't matter. But even so if doing that halves the resale value I want to go into that with eyes open, maybe give my sister a chance to actually make some money off it instead of taking her car for half price. Thanks for the advice goons.

Mechanic sounds a bit full of poo poo here, and even if not, trying to pass off a car that had a significant crash as if it never happened is scummy.

Did your sister collect an insurance payout on the car? If so, the title is already branded and the resale is already grossly cut.

The airbag computer probably needs to be replaced, as does the seatbelt (they have pretensioners that fire like airbags and if it won't move, that probably happened).

# ? Mar 9, 2024 22:38

totalnewbie: Nov 13, 2005; I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.

Leperflesh posted:

2003 mazda protege5, 168k miles

In Feb 2023, the car failed smog check, it had an exhaust leak, took apart the exhaust manifold and found this mess,

I fixed that poo poo; cleaned surfaces, new gaskets, reassembled. It passed smog after this so I was reasonably confident that the parts I hosed with are fixed now. However car has been sitting a lot and when we drive it it stumbles at idle a bit and drives rough and has even stalled a couple of times. Finally it threw a CEL so we immediately parked it.

I finally bothered to get an ODBII bluetooth reader and I am getting P0171 on Bank 1, a lean condition. The voltage graph for oxygen sensor 1 jumps up and down a lot while 2 is more smooth, and the car is trying to adjust fuel like as much as 17% to try and compensate.

This is all at idle:

The MAF reading moves a lot slower

and oxygen sensor 2 is pretty slow and flat

This is at ~1500rpms

Here's a diagram of the exhaust system for this vehicle from the service manual

The internet gives very basic advice for P0171, like, clean the MAF, check the oxygen sensor on the exhaust, look for vacuum leaks, etc. I am hoping you folks can help me narrow that down. I think I replaced #1, HO2S (front) last year when I had the exhaust system open, but I'm not totally sure if it's that sensor or #11 (rear) that is showing the spikes and I'm also not 100% sure if I replaced either one. It seems likely that what's going on here is my incompetence, right? I've somehow failed to get this poo poo together tight, it's sucking in air somewhere and so the car's trying to compensate for a lean condition? Or maybe I just need to clean these sensors?

Engineer here, not mechanic.

All those O2 diagrams look normal. S1 should oscillate and S2 should be steady around 450 mV.

Clear codes and see if it keeps setting? You could also check the exhaust for leaks letting fresh air into the exhaust system.

# ? Mar 9, 2024 22:47

Leperflesh: May 17, 2007

Hmm. Well it definitely idles rough and stalls, but if those charts look normal, then maybe I should ignore them and focus on the actual code, which could be a dirty MAF, vacuum leak on the intake side, etc.

# ? Mar 9, 2024 22:49

Giganticon: Mar 10, 2010; Pillbug

IOwnCalculus posted:

Mechanic sounds a bit full of poo poo here, and even if not, trying to pass off a car that had a significant crash as if it never happened is scummy.

Did your sister collect an insurance payout on the car? If so, the title is already branded and the resale is already grossly cut.

The airbag computer probably needs to be replaced, as does the seatbelt (they have pretensioners that fire like airbags and if it won't move, that probably happened).

She did not take a payout. Thanks for the reply, it confirms what I suspected, and I appreciate the info on the seatbelt. Didn't make sense a computer would do that. I'm going to treat this as a cheap car because it was crashed, which is what it is.

# ? Mar 9, 2024 23:07

PainterofCrap: Oct 17, 2002; hey bebe

kastein posted:

I should also mention that this is a Drive Deviant event. It is an explicitly pro LGBT, leftist car club. Straights welcome, right wingers absolutely not.

Is there a link to this org? I�d be interested in offering something similar in the Philadelphia/south Jersey area.

Giganticon posted:

My sister has a 2018 Corolla she put in a ditch on its side, one of the airbags went off but damage was light. Insurance declared it totaled�

This leads to my stupid question - her mechanic told her that the last step that needs to be done to get this as good as new is to recalibrate the airbag. My sister has told me that the seatbelt is seized - it won't extend of retract. I don't think calibrating an airbag is a thing, so I looked it up - I think what is going on is because she rolled her car there is a unit with accelerometers or something in it that trips when a car rolls. I assume that is what has locked up the seatbelt? Because if you are upside down it doesn't want to drop you? These units can be reset but you have to move them into different positions to tell it what is upright, which sounds like it could be this calibration. Or maybe by calibrate he just meant tell the computer the new airbag's ID? I assume you just need a Toyota computer interface that knows how to do this.
�

Does this seem plausible? Is this worth digging into? I'm planning to buy it from her, reset the seatbelt and have it inspected to make sure last mechanic was correct about suspension, and then use it as a commuter and if that's the case title brands don't matter. But even so if doing that halves the resale value I want to go into that with eyes open, maybe give my sister a chance to actually make some money off it instead of taking her car for half price. Thanks for the advice goons.

No idea if this is compatible, but I repaired my son�s friend�s �00 Accord V6 coupe after he rearended someone. It fired both front airbags; I replaced them both but the ECU or BCM had to be reprogrammed because firing triggers some mode that meant that they may not work again & also that the airbag light reset would not hold.

I sent the module to a shop through eBay (I know, I know) & they did reprogram it successfully; think it was $120 or so. I bought the car from him a year or so later.

We have disclosed the damage to buyers. I repaired it about 5-years ago; my son sold it for me last week.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Mar 9, 2024

# ? Mar 9, 2024 23:38

kastein: Aug 31, 2011; Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Safety Dance posted:

This is right up my alley. How can I find out more about the Washington chapter?

I'll send you an invite on the FB group. I think I've got you on FB at least? I can never remember who I do and don't. They also have a discord, a telegram, an Instagram, etc but I am only on the FB group.

PainterofCrap posted:

Is there a link to this org? I’d be interested in offering something similar in the Philadelphia/south Jersey area.

I don't think I have you on FB but I'm easy to find over there.

# ? Mar 10, 2024 01:13

Safety Dance: Sep 10, 2007; Five degrees to starboard!

kastein posted:

I'll send you an invite on the FB group. I think I've got you on FB at least? I can never remember who I do and don't. They also have a discord, a telegram, an Instagram, etc but I am only on the FB group.

I don't think I have you on FB but I'm easy to find over there.

I deleted Facebook a few years back but I made a new one for sailing and Alcan stuff. Same name. I can look you up if you can't find me.

# ? Mar 10, 2024 03:33

meatpimp: May 15, 2004; Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

2015 Acura RDX. 72k miles, had it since 20k miles. Never any work other than tires, battery, fluids, and sway bar bushings.

I've been chasing a low speed groan / higher speed whirring for a while. It is speed dependent. It does not change when turning. It does not change whether its in gear or in neutral.

I changed the transfer case and rear diff fluid a couple months ago, and that made a difference in a gear noise I was hearing, but the other noise persists. I've rotated, then cross-rotated the tires and there was no change.

I took the driveshaft off today, because they've had problems with the center carrier bearing. There was definitely slop in the bearing, and it's quieter at speed than it was, so I think that bearing is definitely a contributing actor. New from Acura, the driveshaft is $2k. Lol. I'l find a low mileage used one for a few hundred.

But that leaves the low speed groan. I'm looking at the wheel bearings... but with no change during turning, is that possible? I've never had a bad wheel bearing that didn't change during turns...

Thoughts? Am I missing anything?

# ? Mar 10, 2024 18:40

Powershift: Nov 23, 2009

Can you get it up on jackstands and see if it makes the noise without the wheels on the ground? That would definitely differentiate between wheel bearings/tires and drive train.

There is a TSB for the front wheel bearings "howling or moaning" but it doesn't go any further than Acura wanting low mileage parts for investigation.

https://www.carcomplaints.com/Acura/RDX/2015/tsbs/tsb-b-pas-02162016-9.shtml

# ? Mar 10, 2024 19:09

meatpimp: May 15, 2004; Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

Powershift posted:

Can you get it up on jackstands and see if it makes the noise without the wheels on the ground? That would definitely differentiate between wheel bearings/tires and drive train.

There is a TSB for the front wheel bearings "howling or moaning" but it doesn't go any further than Acura wanting low mileage parts for investigation.

https://www.carcomplaints.com/Acura/RDX/2015/tsbs/tsb-b-pas-02162016-9.shtml

Good idea, thanks. I just did that and it's nothing but smooth, engine revs, transmission shifts, all perfect...

Does that narrow it to wheel bearings? Can they fail without changing sound on turns?

# ? Mar 10, 2024 19:26

Powershift: Nov 23, 2009

I can't think of what else it would be based on what you've eliminated.

# ? Mar 10, 2024 22:00

XYZAB: Jun 29, 2003; HNNNNNGG!!

If my car�s line voltage dips between 12 and 14 volts inconsistently while idling or driving, that�s a pretty surefire sign that the alternator is on its way out, yeah?

I�ve been trying to tackle this electrical gremlin for a while. Every time I�ve tested the DC voltage with a multimeter at idle it shows ~14V, so I was quick to dismiss the alternator as being the problem.

Then I realized there�s a battery voltmeter monitor hidden in my car�s default selectable gauge cluster, so I�ve been driving around with it in that mode and watching it closely. It takes a while of driving around for it to get above 13.5V, and the lead up time to anything approaching 14V is suspiciously long. If it were functioning properly I�d be getting a consistent 14+ V as soon as it�s idling, and furthermore, while I�m driving, right?

# ? Mar 11, 2024 00:01

Trickortreat: Oct 31, 2020

I have a 2004 Camry that appears to have a dead battery, as it was struggling to start. The weird thing is, since I tried to crank the engine, the headlight keeps flashing on and I hear a clicking sound coming from somewhere in the engine bay. Is there a fuse that I can pull to stop this from happening? I can't imagine it'd be good for it.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 00:57

VelociBacon: Dec 8, 2009

XYZAB posted:

If my car�s line voltage dips between 12 and 14 volts inconsistently while idling or driving, that�s a pretty surefire sign that the alternator is on its way out, yeah?

I�ve been trying to tackle this electrical gremlin for a while. Every time I�ve tested the DC voltage with a multimeter at idle it shows ~14V, so I was quick to dismiss the alternator as being the problem.

Then I realized there�s a battery voltmeter monitor hidden in my car�s default selectable gauge cluster, so I�ve been driving around with it in that mode and watching it closely. It takes a while of driving around for it to get above 13.5V, and the lead up time to anything approaching 14V is suspiciously long. If it were functioning properly I�d be getting a consistent 14+ V as soon as it�s idling, and furthermore, while I�m driving, right?

As a rule of thumb never trust absolute values from things like that unless you've independently confirmed it (start the car, use a multimeter, if the displayed voltage from your gauge in the car is different from the multimeter you can safely say it's not accurate).

Trickortreat posted:

I have a 2004 Camry that appears to have a dead battery, as it was struggling to start. The weird thing is, since I tried to crank the engine, the headlight keeps flashing on and I hear a clicking sound coming from somewhere in the engine bay. Is there a fuse that I can pull to stop this from happening? I can't imagine it'd be good for it.

The clicking is related to the starter not operating (due to low voltage possibly from a bad battery or bad alternator causing undercharging of a good battery, or a bad starter or a bad ground). You don't need to worry about damage. You need to check your battery voltage. Youtube is your friend.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 02:43

cursedshitbox: May 20, 2012; Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.; Fun Shoe

XYZAB posted:

If my car�s line voltage dips between 12 and 14 volts inconsistently while idling or driving, that�s a pretty surefire sign that the alternator is on its way out, yeah?

I�ve been trying to tackle this electrical gremlin for a while. Every time I�ve tested the DC voltage with a multimeter at idle it shows ~14V, so I was quick to dismiss the alternator as being the problem.

Then I realized there�s a battery voltmeter monitor hidden in my car�s default selectable gauge cluster, so I�ve been driving around with it in that mode and watching it closely. It takes a while of driving around for it to get above 13.5V, and the lead up time to anything approaching 14V is suspiciously long. If it were functioning properly I�d be getting a consistent 14+ V as soon as it�s idling, and furthermore, while I�m driving, right?

I know not what car you drive. PCM controlled alternators will be subject to the PCM's control. Meaning that they'll charge when it is most efficient to do so.

Varying charge Voltage ramp rates depends on the loads running and state of charge of the battery. You could also be experiencing a failing battery via weak cell. It could also be numerous loads taxing the alternator's output. They typically do not do rated power at idle. Nor are they rated for continuous duty at their rated power.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 03:51

phosdex: Dec 16, 2005

I am moving from NM to MN, have 2 cars, not sure if I'll drive 1 myself yet. Does anyone have a recommendation for somebody that would transport 1 or 2 of these for me?

# ? Mar 11, 2024 17:04

IOwnCalculus: Apr 2, 2003

XYZAB posted:

If my car�s line voltage dips between 12 and 14 volts inconsistently while idling or driving, that�s a pretty surefire sign that the alternator is on its way out, yeah?

cursedshitbox posted:

I know not what car you drive. PCM controlled alternators will be subject to the PCM's control. Meaning that they'll charge when it is most efficient to do so.

Varying charge Voltage ramp rates depends on the loads running and state of charge of the battery. You could also be experiencing a failing battery via weak cell. It could also be numerous loads taxing the alternator's output. They typically do not do rated power at idle. Nor are they rated for continuous duty at their rated power.

Reiterating CSB here. A fully computer-controlled alternator will often just not charge at all if it's not needed; my '18 Canyon is this way. I believe the voltmeter in the DIC to be reasonably accurate and I've seen it report as low as 12.2V while driving (not counting "immediately after a glowplug-assisted start). It's done this for the four years I've owned it and I have yet to have it fail to start.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 17:20

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

My relatively modern GMC ('12 Yukon) does this as well, it freaked me out the first time I saw it, but can confirm it's normal and not at all an issue. I see it a lot on long drives - volts will drop to ~12.2 while cruising on the freeway for a few minutes, jump back to ~14.7 when it feels like it.

Sounds like GM likes to do it, at least, and OP has posted about having a Pontiac before - betting that's it.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 18:32

Powershift: Nov 23, 2009

As i understand it, that's why F10 BMW 5ers with the V8 eat a battery an oil change, because it only runs the alternator while coasting/decelerating and never charges during steady state highway cruising.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 18:40

Safety Dance: Sep 10, 2007; Five degrees to starboard!

phosdex posted:

I am moving from NM to MN, have 2 cars, not sure if I'll drive 1 myself yet. Does anyone have a recommendation for somebody that would transport 1 or 2 of these for me?

Shoot an email to Ryan at ADKOS -- rbarrett@adkos.com. They did an excellent job moving my car from NC to WA.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 18:46

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Powershift posted:

As i understand it, that's why F10 BMW 5ers with the V8 eat a battery an oil change, because it only runs the alternator while coasting/decelerating and never charges during steady state highway cruising.

Also gave us the most BMW solution to a problem ever, apparently:

Only registered members can see post attachments!

# ? Mar 11, 2024 18:50

MrOnBicycle: Jan 18, 2008; Wait wat?

Knowing what normal gas station batteries cost... that's one hell of a price every oil change. Oof.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 19:18

HenryJLittlefinger: Jan 31, 2010; stomp clap

Lol jesus christ that's the most BMW thing

# ? Mar 11, 2024 19:54

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

MrOnBicycle posted:

Knowing what normal gas station batteries cost... that's one hell of a price every oil change. Oof.

I think the battery has to be VIN coded as well on the F10 to add to the pain and suffering.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 19:59

Jonny 290: May 5, 2005; [ASK] me about OS/2 Warp

even just an autozone battery for my e39 started tickling $400 by the time i stopped driving it. ugh

# ? Mar 11, 2024 20:16

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Jonny 290 posted:

even just an autozone battery for my e39 started tickling $400 by the time i stopped driving it. ugh

I bought a new battery for my E39 earlier this year and it cost $179 including the core charge. From a BMW dealership.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 20:18

kastein: Aug 31, 2011; Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

I'm so glad my poo poo boxes get 1 to 5 years out of whatever vaguely correct size battery I get from the junkyard for 25 to 40 dollars.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 21:25

wesleywillis: Dec 30, 2016; SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Well I got 9 years out of the original battery on my Corolla and according to the dealer read out thing it was "at 70% capacity" or some such. I was tempted to just keep it until it died to see how long I could get out of it but gently caress it. I got a new one. 6ish years ago.

# ? Mar 11, 2024 22:51

IOwnCalculus: Apr 2, 2003

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

Lol jesus christ that's the most BMW thing

It's also very slightly an EPA thing. BMW could reprogram the car to command the alternator on more often, but because that would burn more fuel, that would be a fairly onerous process to get emissions recertified on that car.

Given that BMW only (barely) cares about the first owner, a few new batteries got those cars out of warranty for far less money than recertification would have cost.

I'm also jealous of how long most of you get out of batteries. I consider them questionable past 24mo and borrowed time after 36mo.

# ? Mar 12, 2024 00:50

PainterofCrap: Oct 17, 2002; hey bebe

My Mom's '81 Civic (factory Yuasa) battery outlasted the starter - seven years. But when it died, it was instantaneous - less than 24-hours.

I really miss that car. It was her first-ever new car, bought after my parents split up. She paid $5000 for it on an 18% note, in the fall of '81. Poverty spec; I installed a radio & speakers for her.

# ? Mar 12, 2024 03:19

WTFBEES: Apr 21, 2005; butt

IOwnCalculus posted:

It's also very slightly an EPA thing. BMW could reprogram the car to command the alternator on more often, but because that would burn more fuel, that would be a fairly onerous process to get emissions recertified on that car.

Given that BMW only (barely) cares about the first owner, a few new batteries got those cars out of warranty for far less money than recertification would have cost.

I'm also jealous of how long most of you get out of batteries. I consider them questionable past 24mo and borrowed time after 36mo.

I laugh when a retailer offers more than 2 years of warranty on a battery in AZ. Preemptive thanks for the free battery two summers from now.

# ? Mar 12, 2024 04:17

Anderson Koopa: Jun 9, 2006

Is there a thread here that pertains to people looking to purchase a new car? Someone ran a stop sign and did some significant damage to a family member's car. We came up with a couple of possible replacements, and I wanted to know if anyone had any experience with those models.

# ? Mar 12, 2024 12:29

Cage: Jul 17, 2003; www.revivethedrive.org

Anderson Koopa posted:

Is there a thread here that pertains to people looking to purchase a new car? Someone ran a stop sign and did some significant damage to a family member's car. We came up with a couple of possible replacements, and I wanted to know if anyone had any experience with those models.

Yeah, in Ask/Tell.

AI meets BFC: Car Buying Thread: No Rentals and No Salvage Titles

# ? Mar 12, 2024 12:35

Anderson Koopa: Jun 9, 2006

Cage posted:

Yeah, in Ask/Tell.

AI meets BFC: Car Buying Thread: No Rentals and No Salvage Titles

Thank you for that recommendation.

# ? Mar 12, 2024 13:00

latinotwink1997: Jan 2, 2008; Taste my Ball of Hope, foul dragon!

IOwnCalculus posted:

I'm also jealous of how long most of you get out of batteries. I consider them questionable past 24mo and borrowed time after 36mo.

Battery of my 2012 GTI lasted like 9 years. And the only reason it did die I think, is trying to jump a completely dead battery. My car almost wouldn�t start after that. Had to replace the battery a couple weeks later.

# ? Mar 12, 2024 15:40

MrOnBicycle: Jan 18, 2008; Wait wat?

My dad got 10 years out of the battery (original) in his V70. It was also nice enough to be good enough to be reliable (until this winter) but poo poo enough to keep Stop Start from working. Win win. New battery, non Volvo, cost like $250 or something.

# ? Mar 12, 2024 17:31

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# ? Apr 29, 2024 08:54

IOwnCalculus: Apr 2, 2003

WTFBEES posted:

I laugh when a retailer offers more than 2 years of warranty on a battery in AZ. Preemptive thanks for the free battery two summers from now.

I admit I'm slightly bummed that Costco no longer does a full reset on their battery warranties.

The Canyon is actually at ~30 months on its Costco AGM battery right now and isn't showing any signs of slow cranking yet. I just realized that my paranoia over replacing batteries when they sound like they're starting to go has meant that I have not had a car fail to crank in at least 11 years. The last time that happened was the MS3 sitting at the hospital undriven for three days when my kid was born.

edit: wait I think the TJ failed to crank once but it was at least at home, and it was running the definitely-abused (and now very dead) Optima that came with the Opel. PO threw a battery at a "starter is locked solid" problem and wondered why it didn't work.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Mar 13, 2024

# ? Mar 13, 2024 06:52

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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