|
My favorite was the Hyundai Elantra belonging to the GF of my neighbor's son. They were driving home tp Philadelphia from Ohio & the engine quit as they reached a tollbooth; had it towed back to her house. It looked like a starter or battery issue, but when he held the key over to start, it didn't make any of the usual noises. After mulling over it a bit & realizing this was a Hyundai, I had him hold the key over. After about 10-seconds, the battery leads started to smoke, and i waved him off. Engine was seized. Not sure if the GF/parents submitted a warranty claim or not.
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2024 17:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 13:19 |
|
|
Neighbor has a Santa Fe and it suffered an engine failure during the pandemic. Was replaced under warranty but still kind of ridiculous. Stuff like that has made me 100% a Toyota stan. I nearly had an engine failure in my 2019 Jetta when the screws holding the VVT valve cover unscrewed themselves due to routine engine vibration and nearly fell into the timing belt. It was literally hitting the metal casing making a metallic ticking noise and it was good I had myself towed to the mechanic because when they found the screw it was on its last threads before falling out.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2024 20:55
|
|
|
Two years ago I bought a 2008 BMW Z4 3.0si coupe (automatic) since I wanted a car again after buying out a lease and reselling to Carvana for free money. It's a great little car, but it has what can charitably be described as a harsh ride. Couple that with the dire state of roads on Long Island and it's led to a fair amount of back pain. Long story short, I'm thinking of selling it and getting something more comfortable. What's considered the best place to go about selling a 16 year old sports car with 105k miles on it? I know I'm not going to make a profit here, but if I can get a good price then I'd be happy. I saw a similar car, https://carsandbids.com/auctions/3RpYx5a8/2007-bmw-z4-30si-coupe, just sell. I know nothing of how these auction sites work, Cars and Bids considered to be good?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 04:32
|
|
|
Someone smashed my 2013 WRX's rear window in last night. They climbed through the window and then into the front seat. It looks like they fished through my glove box looking for a spare key (I would never leave a spare key in my car), and then ripped off the plastic ignition cover. I don't see that anything has been tampered with, but clearly something was damaged because the key I normally use to start the car will not start it anymore. It simply triggers the security light on the dash and the car won't start. I have a spare key that I tried, and it started the car no problem. What do we think happened here? If the if chip reader in the ignition is damaged, why does one of my keys still work? I am going to try to get the window repaired tomorrow and then call the dealer to see about sorting out the ignition / key issue. il serpente cosmico fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Mar 14, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 06:54
|
|
|
il serpente cosmico posted:Someone smashed my 2013 WRX's rear window in last night. They climbed through the window and then into the front seat. It looks like they fished through my glove box looking for a spare key (I would never leave a spare key in my car), and then ripped off the plastic ignition cover. This is the kind of thing that usually you let your insurance handle, you could otherwise be fighting this for awhile if the immobilizer is damaged and needs replacement etc.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 08:13
|
|
|
Ordered a refurbed A/C compressor for my ute (trust me I'd rather have ordered a new part) and it arrived yesterday looking like this: I'm assuming this is a useless unit, right, and I should get them to send another unit? That's where the discharge hose interfaces with the compressor so I'd assume this isn't going to be an effective sealing surface... sarcastx fucked around with this message at 11:10 on Mar 14, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 11:08
|
|
|
Yeah that's trash. Even if the sealing surface was intact the o ring won't stay on it without the edge that's broken off there to back it up.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 11:14
|
|
|
AlmightyPants posted:Two years ago I bought a 2008 BMW Z4 3.0si coupe (automatic) since I wanted a car again after buying out a lease and reselling to Carvana for free money. It's a great little car, but it has what can charitably be described as a harsh ride. Couple that with the dire state of roads on Long Island and it's led to a fair amount of back pain. Long story short, I'm thinking of selling it and getting something more comfortable. What's considered the best place to go about selling a 16 year old sports car with 105k miles on it? I know I'm not going to make a profit here, but if I can get a good price then I'd be happy. I saw a similar car, https://carsandbids.com/auctions/3RpYx5a8/2007-bmw-z4-30si-coupe, just sell. I know nothing of how these auction sites work, Cars and Bids considered to be good? What do you think is a good price? That car is a decent comp with a couple major factors that are going to drive a premium over your car: It's an AZ car, so no rust, and it has 40k fewer miles on it. But if C&B is taking that car, they'll probably take yours. C&B is fine, it's a bit of a lower end site than something like BaT (which I doubt would take your car), but better suited for something niche like your car than say, eBay motors. You will want to detail the car in advance, take good photos of the car (maybe even pay a professional a couple hundo to do it), highlight any known issues with the car in a fairly honest way, and stay engaged with the idiot commentariat throughout the bidding process without losing your mind. Another decent option would be Z4 model specific forums. Usually they have a classifieds section. Be warned that most people looking for a 16 year old 2 door sporty car are not going to be interested in the automatic so you will take a hit versus MT comparables.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 14:20
|
|
|
sarcastx posted:Ordered a refurbed A/C compressor for my ute (trust me I'd rather have ordered a new part) and it arrived yesterday looking like this: It's dead Jim
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 16:01
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:This is the kind of thing that usually you let your insurance handle, you could otherwise be fighting this for awhile if the immobilizer is damaged and needs replacement etc. Oh yeah I am planning on getting it taken care of professionally. I was mainly just curious.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 16:36
|
|
|
kastein posted:Yeah that's trash. cursedshitbox posted:It's dead Jim I contacted the seller, he's got a new one on the way already. Zero fuss or pushback. Kinda makes me think he knew about the missing chunk and just hoped I wouldn't notice it...
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2024 18:27
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:What do you think is a good price? Thanks for the advice! I know I overpaid for it because covid used car prices were unreal, I'm not looking to make a profit or anything, just minimize the losses. I'm also aware that it won't be as valuable because it's an automatic. I'd like to get back 85-90% of the purchase cost on sale, not sure how realistic that is. It's only been 2 years and 5k miles, but yeah, it is a niche car.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2024 04:24
|
|
|
So I'm ideally looking to get either an EV or a plug-in hybrid, and I've seen what look like drat good deals on used Chevy Bolts, which everyone seems to really like.My question is, when buying used, what's the max mileage I should accept given that the battery is likely to be the first thing to wear out and the most expensive thing to replace?
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2024 05:53
|
|
|
L. Ron DeSantis posted:So I'm ideally looking to get either an EV or a plug-in hybrid, and I've seen what look like drat good deals on used Chevy Bolts, which everyone seems to really like.My question is, when buying used, what's the max mileage I should accept given that the battery is likely to be the first thing to wear out and the most expensive thing to replace? Also do look into tax incentives to buy a new vehicle if you haven't. It may be significantly cheaper than you think to buy a new car (or not; I just know there's a bunch of tax credits potentially available). And, according to a survey last year, 28% would accept under 200 miles, 15% 200-250, 20% up to 300, and 38% over 300 miles. (minimum range) I also have, in my mind, something like 20% range reduction as when the battery is "done". I don't feel like looking through my notes but that sounds about right anyway. And it's not an exact scientific thing anyway.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2024 07:16
|
|
|
L. Ron DeSantis posted:So I'm ideally looking to get either an EV or a plug-in hybrid, and I've seen what look like drat good deals on used Chevy Bolts, which everyone seems to really like.My question is, when buying used, what's the max mileage I should accept given that the battery is likely to be the first thing to wear out and the most expensive thing to replace? What’s your budget and what kinds of odometer readings are you considering? How much are those cars selling for? IIRC the battery’s supposed to be good for anywhere between 200k and 300k miles before needing replacement, and there are some EVs on the road with 400k that haven’t had their batteries replaced. Personally I wouldn’t buy anything with an out of the ordinary amount of miles (let’s say on average that commuters put anywhere between 5k and 25k miles per year on a car, with most people doing 10-20k miles) or with a price that’s way out of whack WRT miles and depreciation (ie don’t pay $25k for a car with 30k miles that sold for $27k new). Also probably don’t buy a car that looks like it was used to do rideshare, etc. Batteries can become degraded or be abused in other ways besides racking up miles so be sure to check the battery health of any car that you consider buying (learn how to do this for whatever specific model you’re looking at beforehand). I would be more concerned about a car that sat for weeks or months with a fully depleted battery than I would be about a car with a “high end of normal” or “higher than average” amount of miles and good charging practice on the part of the previous owner (this goes for the dealer too. Some dealers have damaged EV batteries by letting cars sit on lots for too long without charging). Also note that 2017-2019 Bolts got fully new batteries in 2021 (if you have one that didn’t then it’s not in compliance with the battery recall) and 2020-2022 models are supposed to have had their batteries checked and faulty modules replaced by GM. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Mar 15, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2024 07:19
|
|
|
AlmightyPants posted:Thanks for the advice! I know I overpaid for it because covid used car prices were unreal, I'm not looking to make a profit or anything, just minimize the losses. I'm also aware that it won't be as valuable because it's an automatic. I'd like to get back 85-90% of the purchase cost on sale, not sure how realistic that is. It's only been 2 years and 5k miles, but yeah, it is a niche car. You should be fine on cars and bids. What are you actually looking to get? I think 14 is probably realistic, floor down around 12 or so. Assuming good condition, good service records etc
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2024 13:06
|
|
|
Speaking of tax incentives (though I don't know if this is necessarily the right thread for it), what kind of money do I need to be pulling in or other tax conditions for me to have a tax liability high enough to get most of the $7500 federal tax credit? I recently started doing my taxes using H&R Block's tax software and my tax liability it calculated is only less than half of that. I probably should have looked at my last tax return to realize this was the case and changed my strategy accordingly. I already paid for the stupid software but would it be worth it going to an accountant to try to get more out of it? Or would the shenanigans involved be not worth it? It's not like I was banking on my budget this year with the expectation of having the full $7500. It's just a little disappointing that I'm only getting less than half. And here I was rushing a little to get my ID.4 before the new rules kicked in that would have cut the amount of tax credits the ID.4 would be eligible for in half and it turns out it may not have mattered and I could have gotten that money at point of sale. That said, I needed the ID.4 when I did since I was in need of a more reliable and dependable daily driver.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2024 18:45
|
|
|
https://www.irs.gov/credits-deductions/credits-for-new-clean-vehicles-purchased-in-2023-or-after Start here. Also: quote:To claim the credit for vehicles placed in service before January 1, 2024, file Form 8936, Qualified Plug-in Electric Drive Motor Vehicle Credit (Including Qualified Two-Wheeled Plug-in Electric Vehicles) with your tax return. https://fueleconomy.gov/feg/tax2023.shtml
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2024 20:38
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:You should be fine on cars and bids. What are you actually looking to get? I think 14 is probably realistic, floor down around 12 or so. Assuming good condition, good service records etc That's where I am in my mind. It didn't come with any service records from its previous life but I've kept everything from the past 2 years. It's in good condition, no one believes me when I tell them the mileage.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2024 05:13
|
|
|
I've seen 2023 Bolts going for 20k with 13k miles on them but there has to be some catch right?
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 02:21
|
|
|
L. Ron DeSantis posted:I've seen 2023 Bolts going for 20k with 13k miles on them but there has to be some catch right? no that's what I'm seeing them go for. Nobody hates the Chevrolet Bolt more than Chevy dealers, I guess
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 02:33
|
|
|
Are people really wanting to buy a Chevy of any kind? Like if you're in a position to buy a vehicle why not go for something like a prius over that? I dunno if it's a regional bias (not American) but aren't Chevy products just generally trash relative to Toyota/Nissan/etc? e: Google says the volt is a decent EV so I guess my views are outdated. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Mar 17, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 06:32
|
|
|
more like your views are contextually less relevant to that specific model
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 06:38
|
|
|
Yeah I'm a lot less anti GM small car and anti Ford when it comes to EVs because almost all my complaints about those companies engineering departments center on their ICE and/or non-V8 drivetrain design engineers.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 07:13
|
|
|
GM was notoriously cheap with interiors for a while there too, but since everything is a loving tablet on an EV I’d say they’re certainly not worse than Toyota.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 14:26
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Are people really wanting to buy a Chevy of any kind? Like if you're in a position to buy a vehicle why not go for something like a prius over that? I dunno if it's a regional bias (not American) but aren't Chevy products just generally trash relative to Toyota/Nissan/etc? Especially since you appear to consider Nissan a quality product.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 14:30
|
|
|
I have a 07 Nissan Frontier 2WD with a little less than 100k miles. I noticed one of the ball joints was totally demolished so I brought it to a mechanic and asked him to quote a replacement for the upper and lower ball joints on both sides since if one is bad I'm sure the rest are or will be soon. He gave me the option to replace the control arms themselves and also the sway bar links which was the more expensive option but I knew new arms would also come with new bushings. The total for the whole job was $1700. He didn't use crap parts, not like Doreman or anything like that. Was that a reasonable price? I do a lot of my own work and rarely ever take a vehicle to a mechanic so I dont know what it typically costs these days.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 19:19
|
|
|
Charliegrs posted:I have a 07 Nissan Frontier 2WD with a little less than 100k miles. I noticed one of the ball joints was totally demolished so I brought it to a mechanic and asked him to quote a replacement for the upper and lower ball joints on both sides since if one is bad I'm sure the rest are or will be soon. He gave me the option to replace the control arms themselves and also the sway bar links which was the more expensive option but I knew new arms would also come with new bushings. The total for the whole job was $1700. He didn't use crap parts, not like Doreman or anything like that. Was that a reasonable price? I do a lot of my own work and rarely ever take a vehicle to a mechanic so I dont know what it typically costs these days. Is the $1700 for the following list?
Because that seems like a lot. Sway bar links are super cheap, like $25 per for the absolute top end. Control arms as a set might run $250 for the absolute max, upper and lower one side. All told you’re talking about $550 for the absolute max on parts cost It should have been at or near a grand, even with high shop rates.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 20:14
|
|
|
Doesn't sound that unreasonable to me. Depends on your market locally. Not all car parts are obtained at rock auto prices, delivery within the hour adds a significant mark up to the parts, it would need to be aligned afterwards That can add 150ish to the cost. Around here most "normal" shops (not high end luxury car dealers/specialty shops) are charging 100-130 per hour but according to a goon, possibly in this thread, their locals are charging 200 + or something like that. Lots of shops these days are charging a "shop materials fee" that includes stuff like grinding wheels if they have to cut poo poo off, brake cleaner, rags etc.. that'll add 20-50 bucks. Plus tax and so on. E: not quite what I remembered but close kinda. Dr. Lunchables posted:
wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Mar 17, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 20:44
|
|
|
Yeah, it’s can be between $100-150, but can range higher. I just can’t imagine the sway bar links costing much at all and certainly wouldn’t add time to the project. Let’s say parts are gonna run $800, which is incredibly high, there’s also 4 hours at minimum of shop work at a high rate. I wouldn’t expect more than $600 of labor for this job. I think they pushed the boundaries in all areas in terms of cost.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 21:05
|
|
|
I've seen that much work get quoted that high any number of times with family and friends, not that I'd pay it. I'd driveway that repair for like 400 in parts and go get an alignment after.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 21:40
|
|
|
Dr. Lunchables posted:Is the $1700 for the following list? Yep thats what was done. And the mechanic told me they were not bottom of the barrel parts like Doreman. I mean I felt like it was on the high end but I wasn't sure and I seem to be getting different opinions on it. Not that it really matters much, the job is done now. I just probably won't be going back to that mechanic. God I hate moving and having to find a good mechanic again.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 21:47
|
|
|
kastein posted:I've seen that much work get quoted that high any number of times with family and friends, not that I'd pay it. I'd driveway that repair for like 400 in parts and go get an alignment after. This is also my experience. That's not out of line depending on some locales.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 21:56
|
|
|
Charliegrs posted:Yep thats what was done. And the mechanic told me they were not bottom of the barrel parts like Doreman. I mean I felt like it was on the high end but I wasn't sure and I seem to be getting different opinions on it. Not that it really matters much, the job is done now. I just probably won't be going back to that mechanic. God I hate moving and having to find a good mechanic again. I guess at this point it doesn;t matter like you said because the job is done, but what was the cost breakdown? How many hours of labour at what rate etc? What were the actual parts costs?
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2024 22:26
|
|
|
I have a 2016 Kia Soul. Are there any reputable makers of aftermarket blind spot sensor kits? Or aftermarket lane assist? I'm not looking for something that takes over the driving, just something like warning lights and a beep.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2024 09:43
|
|
|
For whatever reason, I can no longer download Torque Lite from Google Play. Is there a recommended app for OBDII bluetooth readers? I'll just pay the  for Torque Pro if it's reliable.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2024 16:01
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:This is also my experience. That's not out of line depending on some locales. We're in a world where quick-lube places are charging $100 for a regular five quart change. $1700 does not sound out of line for a shop that's essentially completely tearing apart the front suspension and putting it back together, with a warranty that covers parts and probably labor, and an alignment.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2024 16:35
|
|
|
Nighthand posted:I have a 2012 Mazda 6 with ~73k miles on it. Bought one of those OBD2 readers and Torque. After the car sat for a week or so, I plugged it in and it only found one code. Later, I drove it around on some errands, including having the traction control thing trigger, and read it again then. Even after that, it was still just the one error. Specifically, it's P0706 - Powertrain, Transmission Rance Sensor Circuit Range/Performance. Adding context, then; back before my road trip, the car was sporadically failing to start unless I wiggled the shifter a bit. I took it in and they said the shifter cable was wearing, and they adjusted/tightened it. I then had zero trouble with that issue through the whole road trip, so I assumed that it was both unrelated and addressed. Now though, reading up a bit, I wonder. I do notice that the indicator that I'm in drive isn't always lit up unless I pull back on the shifter a bit. No trouble actually driving, but if that bit of tension is making it throw bad signals, and then the car reacts to that. Only getting one error code when previously I've been told there are several makes me wonder if I'm not using the reader properly though, that's also a possibility.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2024 18:17
|
|
|
Check pending codes too, it might be listing those in the total and only displaying the actually set codes. That sounds like a bad TRS/NSS/MLPS from your description but I'd want to test it myself to be sure.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2024 20:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 13:19 |
|
|
That one is listed as pending and is the only one that comes up, unless there's something I need to do in the settings to make others show up.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2024 21:17
|
|