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Got a TinkerCAD question - I've imported an odd shaped object into Tinkercad - a guitar pickguard. I'd like to bevel the outside edges. There's no option visible to bevel it when I click on the shape. It has some odd compound curves so manually beveling it using shapes as holes would be a bit onerous. I was able to do a quick and dirty bevel on the one flat end:   It doesn't have to be perfect, but those curves seem like it'd just be a nutso job to manually bevel. Is there any way to accomplish this in TinkerCAD or am I looking at having to learn Blender or some other program?
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Mar 17, 2024 15:18
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withak posted:If in doubt, double-check to confirm that the machine is not doing exactly what you instructed it to do. Okay but it's still not visible in the preview so I can only be partially blamed here 
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Mar 17, 2024 15:22
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MJP posted:It doesn't have to be perfect, but those curves seem like it'd just be a nutso job to manually bevel. Is there any way to accomplish this in TinkerCAD or am I looking at having to learn Blender or some other program? Is there a draft angle tool somewhere? That can usually create complicated beveled edges.
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Mar 17, 2024 16:23
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Looking for a printer recommendation for my dad. My dad already runs an ender 3 v2, ender 3 Neo, and an anycubic Kobra Neo. He’s looking for something either with a larger bed or something a lot faster. The problem is he’s a notorious cheapskate and has had good luck with the bargain side of bedslingers so saying something like “Bambu X1P” or similar is gonna be a No. He had his eye on the Kobra 2 Max but I talked him out of it because the mainboard setup on that thing is bananas and he wouldn’t be able to run custom firmware/klipper. Any recommendations? He’s very much not a newbie or afraid to tinker, but he’s gotta feel like he’s getting a good deal.
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Mar 17, 2024 16:29
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Sovol sv06 plus might fit the bill for "big"*? reliable, basically prusa clone but needs some maintenance (had to gresae the bearings on mine) klipperizing the sovols is also possible afaik. Sovol is selling refurbished printers on their website: https://www.sovol3d.com/products/sovol-refurbished-3d-printer?variant=45150897701173 Availability depends on how many perople send theirs back obviously, but if he can wait there is a good deal to be had. edit: *not as big as kobra 2 max, but really depends on what he needs, Dr Sun Try fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Mar 17, 2024 |
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Mar 17, 2024 16:34
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Dr Sun Try posted:Sovol sv06 plus might fit the bill for "big"*? reliable, basically prusa clone but needs some maintenance (had to gresae the bearings on mine) The sv06+ had come up in my searching as well, I did send that to him as a possible alternative. I was also trying to push him towards with something with an enclosure or building an enclosure, as he wants to do more automotive interior parts and being able to print ASA would be a big step up over PETG+
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Mar 17, 2024 16:55
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Neptune 4 Max e: this is kind of a comedy option, the Max is huge
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Mar 17, 2024 16:57
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Sockser posted:Neptune 4 Max I’d come across this too, only concern was that their nozzles are proprietary (and would probably push for the plus instead of the max as it is, indeed, huge)
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Mar 17, 2024 17:00
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SV06+ nozzles are proprietary out of the box too, regular Volcano nozzles are like 1.5mm too short to work without modifying or replacing the part cooling fan duct. I had one for about three weeks, and even as a Sovol fan, I was so unimpressed with it that I gave it to the local makerspace. My regular SV06's have been great, the Plus was a disappointment. Maybe someone who still likes to tinker would like it more.
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Mar 17, 2024 17:03
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Acid Reflux posted:SV06+ nozzles are proprietary out of the box too, regular Volcano nozzles are like 1.5mm too short to work without modifying or replacing the part cooling fan duct. That’s unfortunate, from my reading I thought the sv06+/sv07 had a standard volcano nozzle 
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Mar 17, 2024 17:14
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No they take K1 nozzles, a little more pointy than volcano nozzles.
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Mar 17, 2024 17:23
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Man it is hard not to buy like 10 rolls of overpriced filament at a time when you’re in microcenter. Being able to see it all vs seeing photos online is a totally different experience. Also, protopasta makes some god drat beautiful filament, but it is so so expensive. Same goes for CookieCAD although it’s not as nice and they seem to cater to a specific color style.
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Mar 17, 2024 19:08
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My Microcenter doesn't have any of the 3d printing stuff.
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Mar 17, 2024 19:11
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Nerobro was chill IRL! Thanks for the Mini Delta!
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Mar 17, 2024 20:19
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Nerobro posted:The best thing to do, if you want help, is to tell us what printer you have. What temperature and what material you're printing with, and to print out a 3d benchy. It's an hour well spent. Okay, Ender 3 S1 Pro. Just updated the firmware (that was a fuckin' nightmare) to V2.0.8.28. Running PrusaSlicer, with default settings for this printer. Printing first layer at 205c, then the rest at 200c, bed temp at 60c. Material is Official Creality 3D Printer Filament, Ender PLA Filament 1.75mm No-Trangling, Strong Bonding and Overhang Performance Dimensional Accuracy +/-0.02mm which says it prints between 185-220c. Benchy just finished, and looks like this:      Didn't mean to print with the brim. Other than the one error on the side as seen in the first pic, and some cobwebs inside of it, it seems to have come out amazing to my untrained eye.
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Mar 17, 2024 21:55
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Perfect! that's exactly what I (we) need to tell you what's going on. Well, that benchy is great looking. The brim says your extrusion is pretty good. I don't know how you adjust it, but you might be very slightly to high off the bed. Turn off brim, try your slug again. NewFatMike posted:Nerobro was chill IRL! Thanks for the Mini Delta! Hah, I try not to be ~that kind of goon~.
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Mar 17, 2024 22:43
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AlexDeGruven posted:My Microcenter doesn't have any of the 3d printing stuff. Shame, the PLA wall is a thing to behold.
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Mar 17, 2024 23:44
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Okay, Ender 3 S1 Pro. Just updated the firmware (that was a fuckin' nightmare) to V2.0.8.28. Running PrusaSlicer, with default settings for this printer. Get orcaslicer and use the integrated calibration stuff.
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Mar 18, 2024 00:22
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Printing a Benchy with a brim misses the point, the option should be off by default so you have to say "hey, this thing has low build plate contact, it needs a brim".
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Mar 18, 2024 01:45
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The default setting putting brims on things that in no way need brims is how I spot "influencers" who got free printers
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Mar 18, 2024 01:57
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AlexDeGruven posted:My Microcenter doesn't have any of the 3d printing stuff. I didn’t think that was even allowed. I’m hoping ours goes hard into it when/if it ever opens.
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Mar 18, 2024 02:01
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The Microcenter I go to has a 3D printing section that's an organizational wreck managed by "the 3D printing guy" who never actually seems to be around. They have a lot of stock that gets kept in the back instead of out on shelves so you have to flag someone down and wait for ages as they struggle to find a tiny package of Bambu scraper blades. Props to them though for being the only place within a hundred miles to carry 3D printer supplies, though. I've gotten my printers, a ton of accessories, and a lot of filament through them.
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Mar 18, 2024 02:05
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MJP posted:Got a TinkerCAD question - I've imported an odd shaped object into Tinkercad - a guitar pickguard. I'd like to bevel the outside edges. There's no option visible to bevel it when I click on the shape. It has some odd compound curves so manually beveling it using shapes as holes would be a bit onerous. One trickiness I've had is simply resizing imported drawings for whatever reason. Never figured out how to do it as simply as TinkerCAD, but not too hard once you learn the weirdness. Well for one, theoretically to prevent needing to resize, things will import at correct scale if the SVGs are internally set to (I think) 96 dpi. If that doesn't work, you find the dimensions Fusion sees, then compare to the original/indended dimensions, and use those for the scale function. It takes fractions, so you can enter stuff like intended size/fusion size to get it to the size you want. I haven't figured out a way to just enter dimensions like in TinkerCAD for imported SVGs for whatever reason, but I also haven't messed with imported SVGs in a while either. *I only recently finally clicked with 3D modeling. I always generally knew the process to roughly get to what I want in my head, but could never figure out how to do in software before, even TinkerCAD. But gave TinkerCAD another shot for a simple project a few weeks/months back, then more complex ones and messing with 2D projections, then ran into the limits there (like pain in the rear end fillets and various off angle/complex shape stuff) which got me to trying Fusion again. And struggled again but didn't take too long to get past whatever wall that's always been there before. Still only really know the basics but it's enough to actually make things now 
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Mar 18, 2024 05:05
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If you’re working with that complex of a design, I’m positive a regular CAD program will work great for you. Onshape has a great 0-60 elearning system, and chamfering or filleting a surface like that is trivial in a proper CAD program. E: we even have a CAD thread https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962532&perpage=40&pagenumber=53&noseen=1
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Mar 18, 2024 05:30
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To clarify, is that a random STL you imported? If so, that may change how you can interact with it in a CAD program. I can't comment on tinkercad, but using solidworks as I do it would be quicker for me to remake such a simple model from near scratch than brute force a bevel onto someone else's exported mesh.
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Mar 18, 2024 06:30
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Javid posted:To clarify, is that a random STL you imported? If so, that may change how you can interact with it in a CAD program. I can't comment on tinkercad, but using solidworks as I do it would be quicker for me to remake such a simple model from near scratch than brute force a bevel onto someone else's exported mesh. Tinkercad isn't even a cad program, it's a mesh editor.
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Mar 18, 2024 07:06
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Might even have better luck with the built-in 3D Builder app in Windows.
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Mar 18, 2024 17:28
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gvibes posted:Flow rate still doesn't look right, no? Did the first part of the flow calibration.  My phone's camera doesnt like taking pics of white surfaces, and yes somehow I lost the -15 between last night and this morning  . This test has kinda confused me further. The -5 is the smoothest by a hair, but the +5 looks the best on the little part where the text is. Should I do the second part of the calibration off of the +5? The guide says "Examine the blocks and determine which one has the smoothest top surface.", which tells me the -5, but y'all are saying there's an issue with the flow, so decreasing it further seems like the wrong choice.
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Mar 18, 2024 17:33
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-5 looks clear winner to me.
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Mar 18, 2024 17:39
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Did the first part of the flow calibration. You’re not supposed to use the number bit, only the higher surface. This link has photos and great detail on how to read these tests. https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/wiki/Calibration IMO you have some other issue. You shouldn’t have those huge gaps in between the individually extruded lines that are easily visible in the numbers. You may have some other setting out of wack. Do you have the correct nozzle size selected in the slicer? Do you have PLA selected as the material in the slicer or did you accidentally select something else? Also looks like you’re printing at 200 C which might be a little low, but some PLAs do better down there. At this point, maybe a screenshot of your whole slicer after you slice so we can see more details, as well as a video of the first layer going down? The more information and details you provide, the more we can help. There’s so many hundreds of variables that can cause these issues that it’s hard without significantly more info.
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Mar 18, 2024 21:05
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:You’re not supposed to use the number bit, only the higher surface. This link has photos and great detail on how to read these tests. Yeah, came with a 0.4 mm nozzle and that's what it's set to on the slicer, along with PLA set. All of the settings, other than the now-adjusted flow rate (-5%) are the default settings for the Ender 3 S1 Pro in Orca Slicer 2.0.0        I can grab a video tomorrow too. Would doing the other calibrations, like the pressure and heat give more information? Edit: I have enough time to do a heat test tonight, i'll get that started and grab the first layer. It will be colder than usual, so I dunno if that'll be useful info to film Edit edit, hotter than usual. Tower is opposite direction so the first layer is 230c Fashionable Jorts fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Mar 19, 2024 |
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Mar 19, 2024 03:54
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:
The tab isn't useful because it can be affected by the previous object. In the case of positive flows the previous object could cause massive backpressure and slipping which could reflect on that first layer. One thing I would try is to run the same exact test again and expect the same results. If there are then I'd agree there may be some mechanical or hotend issue.
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Mar 19, 2024 09:01
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Fashionable Jorts posted:somehow I lost the -15 between last night and this morning Lost like it didn't print at all, or lost like it slid off the bed and extruded spaghetti all over the top? Or lost like it printed but you couldn't find it when you went to take the photo 
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Mar 19, 2024 18:27
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cruft posted:Lost like it didn't print at all, or lost like it slid off the bed and extruded spaghetti all over the top? The latter, I had it in my greasy palms at one point, then it vanished when I went to take a pic of them.
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Mar 19, 2024 18:50
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Still trying to find a way to use up the 2m or so left on this spool. Made this fancy phone case with like 800 cm. I think it's pretty, so now you have to look at it too.
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Mar 20, 2024 00:17
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Would doing the other calibrations, like the pressure and heat give more information? Has anyone suggested ditching that white filament? I’ve never used it but it’s supposed to be the worst colour to print with if I’m not mistaken.
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Mar 20, 2024 09:10
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That's actually a good point that hadn't crossed my mind. While filaments have a lot of titanium dioxide pigment in them and often don't flow as well as other colors at "normal" temperatures. The solution, more often than not, is to just turn the hot end temperature up by five or ten degrees.
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Mar 20, 2024 11:42
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Yeah but then it gets super stringy, I hate it. Something something about White ruining everything.
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Mar 20, 2024 15:24
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I’ve got some Inland white PLA+ that prints MUCH better than that. A1 mini, and my understanding is PLA+ tends to be more finicky than PLA.  It definitely still needs to be dried and tuned a bit better, and that large bulge is where it shifts from infill to more solid is something I’m still trying to figure out but happens with most of my prints. First layer generally goes down really well with this filament.
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Mar 20, 2024 15:55
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any advice for silk filaments? hoping to use an elegoo silk metallic silver
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Mar 20, 2024 16:21
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