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Guildencrantz posted:Does anyone have a good method for doing rusted/weathered painted metal? I'm getting the appropriate look on the bare metal parts of my Necromunda terrain with a mix of the typhus/ryza method and pigment powders, but once in-universe paint is involved I'm pretty lost. I'd rather not gently caress around with chipping medium unless there's really no other way. I undercoat a rust brown, then a coat of whatever colour you want the paint to be. If I'm feeling fancy, I then apply patches of off-white to edges and any surfaces that would show wear, usually with a sponge or brush. This represents an in-universe primer or undercoat showing through. You can skip this step tbh, but it does add a bit of depth, and you could get an interesting effect with multiple different colours, implying that it has been painted and repainted over the centuries. I then hit the center of those patches with the rust brown (or apply new ones if I skipped that step), trying to keep a little around the edges but not worrying too much if I go over onto the original colour. This is where the metal has been exposed long enough to rust. You can also apply some orange or typhus or whatever technique you want at this point to make it look rusty. Then in the center of the larger patches/scratches, I stipple/brush on some metallic - this is where the rust has flaked away to show metal that hasn't had time to corrode yet. Sometimes I also add metallic scratches over the base colour to represent new damage that hasn't rusted at all. I don't have any pigments or whatever, so I then use watered down rust-brown and/or typhus corrosion to add streaks from the weathering to represent where water has carried flakes of rust down over the paint, and generally grubby it up a bit. Ends up looking like this (I didn't do the under-paint stage on these) I did these years ago now, if I had to do them again I'd dial back the metallic on the scratches a bit to make them look less fresh.
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 13:46 |
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# ? Jun 1, 2024 04:43 |
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Guildencrantz posted:Does anyone have a good method for doing rusted/weathered painted metal? I'm getting the appropriate look on the bare metal parts of my Necromunda terrain with a mix of the typhus/ryza method and pigment powders, but once in-universe paint is involved I'm pretty lost. I'd rather not gently caress around with chipping medium unless there's really no other way. https://youtu.be/pMncvt0BpbI?si=xV6lqT_4Nu7zqhhm Pretty much exactly what you need.
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 13:49 |
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Mr Teatime posted:My kingdom for a video guide explaining how to paint chaos gold trim like the gw studio does. I’ve had it explained to me, I’ve seen pictures but I just can’t get it right. Paint gold first, fill in the middle parts after. Otherwise just relax and paint very carefully
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 14:12 |
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the future is Now: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjTsZIT6UPI
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 20:03 |
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Finished* my first Bretonnian Knight of the Realm and his retainers *needs based
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 20:15 |
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paperface posted:Finished* my first Bretonnian Knight of the Realm and his retainers Looking good. What transfers are those?
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 21:07 |
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They're from the Sisters of Battle transfer sheet, I think they're Order of the Sacred Rose ones.
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 22:43 |
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Guildencrantz posted:Does anyone have a good method for doing rusted/weathered painted metal? I'm getting the appropriate look on the bare metal parts of my Necromunda terrain with a mix of the typhus/ryza method and pigment powders, but once in-universe paint is involved I'm pretty lost. I'd rather not gently caress around with chipping medium unless there's really no other way. Paint your color on and then use a torn off bit of sponge to dab on bare metal/rust effects? It's what I do add battle damage to my ork checkers and cover up my mistakes.
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 23:09 |
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Mr Teatime posted:My kingdom for a video guide explaining how to paint chaos gold trim like the gw studio does. I’ve had it explained to me, I’ve seen pictures but I just can’t get it right. Battled with this most of the day… just to get a Rhinox basecoat on before the Balthasar. I did a bit of clean up even though I knew I’d be making more mistakes later and realized Screaming Skull will take a few coats to do. Loving the models, though!
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# ? Mar 22, 2024 23:36 |
In terms of painting technique or how I treat it, do I need to do anything special with paint-on primer black, or is it basically similar to other acrylics?
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# ? Mar 23, 2024 03:06 |
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Nessus posted:In terms of painting technique or how I treat it, do I need to do anything special with paint-on primer black, or is it basically similar to other acrylics? whose paint-on primer black? some are self-leveling (so you can be kind of sloppy), some are just tough black paint
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# ? Mar 23, 2024 03:28 |
Cease to Hope posted:whose paint-on primer black? some are self-leveling (so you can be kind of sloppy), some are just tough black paint
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# ? Mar 23, 2024 03:37 |
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that's self-leveling. don't fill in gaps but don't worry about applying it smoothly.
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# ? Mar 23, 2024 03:49 |
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Mr Teatime posted:My kingdom for a video guide explaining how to paint chaos gold trim like the gw studio does. I’ve had it explained to me, I’ve seen pictures but I just can’t get it right. Do you have a reference photo? Looking at the recent announcements from Adepticon it looks like they're doing NMM, but clicking randomly around the store it seems like there's a mix of true metallic and NMM. I'm a big fan of Richard Gray's tutorials, and he has a number for NMM gold: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0Le3Y2E4WY His style is longer videos painting whole/substantial portions of models, which isn't to everyone's taste, but he does an excellent job verbalizing what he's thinking about/paying attention to. Cease to Hope posted:what if all i have is a syringe full of drain cleaner, will that suffice Thanks! You inspired me to give a realistic-ish human eye a shot for the first time, and I'm reasonably happy with how it turned out: I'm calling it here and moving onto basing. I'm content with the verdigris and still unhappy with the rust, but I've spent enough time on it I think it's time to move on. I've got plenty more death guard to paint so it won't be my last chance to paint some rust. After basing I'll need to figure out how to take a picture where the detail on the eye is visible without having the the stippling and the verdigris look extremely textured.
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# ? Mar 23, 2024 06:47 |
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Bark! A Vagrant posted:I'm calling it here and moving onto basing. I'm content with the verdigris and still unhappy with the rust, but I've spent enough time on it I think it's time to move on. I've got plenty more death guard to paint so it won't be my last chance to paint some rust. After basing I'll need to figure out how to take a picture where the detail on the eye is visible without having the the stippling and the verdigris look extremely textured. this rules btw like, you are going to get better and do work closer to what is in your mind's eye, certainly, but all anyone else can see is what you've made, which is excellent
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# ? Mar 23, 2024 08:01 |
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Guildencrantz posted:Does anyone have a good method for doing rusted/weathered painted metal? I'm getting the appropriate look on the bare metal parts of my Necromunda terrain with a mix of the typhus/ryza method and pigment powders, but once in-universe paint is involved I'm pretty lost. I'd rather not gently caress around with chipping medium unless there's really no other way. Goonhammer, as ever, have you covered for techniques both simple and more involved for small terrain. Also for necro big terrain.
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# ? Mar 23, 2024 12:28 |
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A test with the Newsh wash. Urien Rakarth base, Pallid Wych Flesh drybrush: Newsh + Evil Suns Scarlet; I think that I used too much on the Newsh coat. I tried painting a miniature one time with red gouache paint, and it looked similar to the effect that I'm getting here. I don't think that gouache and Newsh have much in common, but I'm saying that they look similar here. After sponging off the Newsh, another Urien Rakarth drybrush: And a final drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh: I wonder if it would look better with a gloss varnish, to get that wet skin look. I'm still going to have to practice using Newsh to get the result I want. The next experiment will be doing brown ink in Newsh over a Frostgrave miniature for your standard Burnt Sienna oil wash look. Cannibal Smiley fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Mar 23, 2024 |
# ? Mar 23, 2024 19:36 |
Did a quick one as a palette cleanser after finishing Skull Lance for battletech. and Skull Lance, which I posted in battletech thread, ten minis for six mechs:
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# ? Mar 23, 2024 21:12 |
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It is not well painted, but it is fully painted. I need to look at some paint schemes instead of just grabbing random colors. That also isn't its actual base, I've got some fancy ones printing and I'll see which one looks best for it.
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# ? Mar 23, 2024 21:35 |
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my local artists supply store has a line of professional graffiti paint called montana and they had a clear plastic primer. it was cheap as hell compared to hardware stores and it works amazingly, highly recommend it if you have some near you
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 03:59 |
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Akira Toriyama died earlier this month, so I decided to paint up a statuette he designed. This is very much an old school model kit. Most comes off the sprue in big, solid chunks that you would logically lay out as a person, not a thin shell of weird ribbons cut out of the forms like when you run it through a slicer. Also, I'm pretty sure that the original sculpt was made out of greenstuff, based on the textures that got transferred to the mold. It's pretty charming, barring that drat bag strap outright not fitting no matter what you do to it. Anyway, painting a big miniature was a lot of fun and I highly recommend it if you can find one you like. Get you a 75mm model or something, it rules.
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 04:58 |
Kylaer posted:
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 05:38 |
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Is there a good way to get Vallejo paints people know of, some are on Amazon but I can't find the ones I want (metallic).
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 07:04 |
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Painted up a Jump Pack Chaplain for my Blood Angels. Older sculpts are pretty sick but there's some really funny details that I can only explain via technological limitations. There's a little skull on the chestplate that looks fine from the front but from the top it's actually a long tube with a skull shape at the end.
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 09:06 |
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Kylaer posted:
Red over a white undercoat is hard - I'd suggest starting with a brown, then applying two thin coats over the top. Or, if that's a contrast paint, try to work on your brushstrokes to keep the surface smooth, and avoid pooling on flat surfaces. In either case, another thin coat might help to smooth out the red finish you have now.
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 09:13 |
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Thank you for the feedback. It's a contrast paint (Blood Angels red) and I think the issue is that I hosed up the priming again, using the last of my spray can primer. I did another coat on the shin armor and it did very little to cover up the streaks so I didn't bother on the carapace.
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 12:28 |
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pseudanonymous posted:Is there a good way to get Vallejo paints people know of, some are on Amazon but I can't find the ones I want (metallic). I usually grab a couple at a time off whatever eBay store has everything I'm looking for.
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 12:36 |
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Kylaer posted:Thank you for the feedback. It's a contrast paint (Blood Angels red) and I think the issue is that I hosed up the priming again, using the last of my spray can primer. I did another coat on the shin armor and it did very little to cover up the streaks so I didn't bother on the carapace. Contrast paints can struggle to get even coverage over large smooth surfaces (like big armour panels) and try to pool weirdly/streak when you use them like that, even over a flawless primer coat. It can be done (either by using an airbrush or by being super careful/vigilant with a brush, I find almost an overbrushing technique works better than my usual "slop it on and move it around" contrast paint technique) but honestly over things like that I'd kind of recommend just reverting to "basecoat, wash, highlight" with regular acrylics. Also would probably be a bit more opaque and do more to cover the uneven primer.
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 12:36 |
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Ahh. Wrong tool for the job I guess
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 12:39 |
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Yeah, I used a Black Templar contrast layer as a base coat for my warhound titan, with the plan to stipple red over the top. Black Templar has extremely good coverage for a contrast paint, but even then I noticed it was patchy in places (which was fine for my use but not great if I just wanted it to be black)
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 12:46 |
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Kylaer posted:Ahh. Wrong tool for the job I guess Yeah, so dont beat yourself up about it. You didnt struggle to get coverage because you are bad at this, you just were missing a piece of information. You now know for next time, next one you paint (or indeed this one if you fancy having another crack at doing the carapace, you can always just paint over the current coat if you want to) will be better simply because you now know a limitation of your tools and can select a more appropriate one.
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 13:18 |
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Finished up Ushoran
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 13:58 |
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Kylaer posted:Ahh. Wrong tool for the job I guess On the bright side, if you want to make it look smoother, having that contrast red there will make a normal red cover over it better, and give you a solid colour in fewer coats.
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 14:40 |
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the_seventh_cohort posted:Finished up Ushoran That's awesome!
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 15:15 |
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Primed the base with my airbrush, which I should have done for the model itself, paint applies so much better than over rattlecan primer There's probably a better mud tone than this but it's good enough. Also I'm disproportionately proud of how the little 90-degree notches I edited into the base turned out, they define the front/side/rear arcs of the model.
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# ? Mar 24, 2024 22:51 |
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Kylaer posted:
I tend to use the Vallejo Mecha primers with a bit of thinner and both the black (if I'm doing regular acrylics and building up to a zenithal) or white (if I'm going to use mainly contrasts/inks or be painting gunpla armour panels) have been good for me. I admittedly do tend to use a basecoat after the primer layer as well depending on what I'm going to be doing (just because it takes hardly any time with an airbrush and lets me adjust the finish on the model without varnish) but honestly you can skip that.
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# ? Mar 25, 2024 00:55 |
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pseudanonymous posted:Is there a good way to get Vallejo paints people know of, some are on Amazon but I can't find the ones I want (metallic). Michigan Toy Soldier and Burbank's House of Hobbies are my go to online paint retailers
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# ? Mar 25, 2024 01:04 |
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Painted my first miniature: a Leonidas smartgunner from SYNDICAT, along with a C4T multipurpose robot. I went to Adepticon with the guy who sculpted/printed the mini and he talked me through the basics of priming, paint thinning, etc. He printed a hundred of them and handed them all out in these little gachapon balls, which were an instant hit and doubled as a storage container to stop them getting damaged if you stuck them in a pocket.
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# ? Mar 25, 2024 04:18 |
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mellonbread posted:Painted my first miniature: a Leonidas smartgunner from SYNDICAT, along with a C4T multipurpose robot. I love them
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# ? Mar 25, 2024 04:56 |
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# ? Jun 1, 2024 04:43 |
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Cease to Hope posted:I love them You can already get files for some of the older minis, one from each faction. I'm painting the Haomao next, I just have to get my setup figured out at home.
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# ? Mar 25, 2024 05:14 |