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Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

hoiyes posted:

New Recruit. It's not super slick, but the printout with all your army rules is extremely good.

seconded, going to also underline that the UI is less than pretty

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Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

a pale ghost posted:

What's a good free army builder?

Also is there somewhere to read about army balance and such for a returning player?

The official app lets you have one army list for free. It's pretty good.

For the second point, goonhammer.com

DAD LOST MY IPOD
Feb 3, 2012

Fats Dominar is on the case


hoiyes posted:

Stompas are more like knight sized, Gargants are the titan size ones.

no, a [G/M]orkonaut is a knight equivalent. A stompa is about the size of a Warhound.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

DAD LOST MY IPOD posted:

no, a [G/M]orkonaut is a knight equivalent. A stompa is about the size of a Warhound.

I thought a Supa-Stompa was the size of a warhound?

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
the sizes are made up and don't matter. that said, my understanding:

bikes < trikes/trakks < buggies and orktober cars ~< trukk ~< war rig < battlewagon

mega armor < killa kan ~< grot tank ~< deff dredd ~< grot megatank ~= battlewagon

battlewagon < megadredd ~= orkanaut < stompa ~< super stompa < gargant < mega-gargant

stompas and supa-stompas have knight rules in epic, while gargants and M-Gs have titan rules. AFAIK, megadredds, and orkanauts have never had epic rules.

Improbable Lobster
Jan 6, 2012

"From each according to his ability" said Ares. It sounded like a quotation.
Buglord
The stompa is still such a beautiful model, really holds up well after five editions.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Looking at Eldar lists and it's all swooping hawks and war spiders. But what if I think striking scorpions and banshees look better?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Then run them

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Lostconfused posted:

Looking at Eldar lists and it's all swooping hawks and war spiders. But what if I think striking scorpions and banshees look better?

the main reason people do not run striking scorpions and howling banshees is because they are not very good

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

Just lol at the idea of dealing with multiple squads of Spiders and Hawks, two kits in dire need of revamp, for any reason.

I guess the Spiders are chunky enough to be ok in resin, but I own 20 hawks and wouldn’t touch them in resin.

StashAugustine
Mar 24, 2013

Do not trust in hope- it will betray you! Only faith and hatred sustain.

Lostconfused posted:

Looking at Eldar lists and it's all swooping hawks and war spiders. But what if I think striking scorpions and banshees look better?

Play Kill Team instead?

Aliensandwich
Jan 21, 2024
I'm finally getting around to putting the decals on my Ultramarines' armor after pussyfooting for over a year. Those pauldrons really make it tricky for the omega logos to conform. I decided to go with Ardcoat as the initial gloss varnish.

How long should I wait after applying the varnish before setting the decals down? Some places say a whole day of cure time, but others say an hour.

I don't have a ton of free time these days, so I want to make whatever hobby time count and not wait an entire day if I don't have to.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Microsol and Microset are your friends.

Aliensandwich
Jan 21, 2024

AndyElusive posted:

Microsol and Microset are your friends.

Heard. I do plan on using some white vinegar as a setting solution for now.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Think I figured out what I liked about 3rd edition marines, or at least ultramarines. The red and yellow accents were a lot more eye catching than the desaturated metal paint they have going on now.

Maybe the metal paint is more shiny when you see it in real life, but it just doesn't look as good in photos.

Improbable Lobster
Jan 6, 2012

"From each according to his ability" said Ares. It sounded like a quotation.
Buglord

Aliensandwich posted:

I'm finally getting around to putting the decals on my Ultramarines' armor after pussyfooting for over a year. Those pauldrons really make it tricky for the omega logos to conform. I decided to go with Ardcoat as the initial gloss varnish.

How long should I wait after applying the varnish before setting the decals down? Some places say a whole day of cure time, but others say an hour.

I don't have a ton of free time these days, so I want to make whatever hobby time count and not wait an entire day if I don't have to.

Your local humidity and temperature make a huge difference in drying time, unfortunately making it hard to give advice on drying time

Aliensandwich
Jan 21, 2024

Improbable Lobster posted:

Your local humidity and temperature make a huge difference in drying time, unfortunately making it hard to give advice on drying time

The air is currently pretty dry where live.

Also: Does Lahmian Medium work well as a matte varnish? I plan on popping that on once the decals finally settle to undo the initial gloss layer

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

Aliensandwich posted:

The air is currently pretty dry where live.

Also: Does Lahmian Medium work well as a matte varnish? I plan on popping that on once the decals finally settle to undo the initial gloss layer

You should probably get some technical stormshield if you want a matte varnish. Lahmian medium won't do what you want, and will probably only damage the paintjob if you apply it on top of a finished model

I know this because I got my varnish and lahmian mixed up, and the paint cracked where I had lathered it on

Aliensandwich
Jan 21, 2024

Bohemian Nights posted:

You should probably get some technical stormshield if you want a matte varnish. Lahmian medium won't do what you want, and will probably only damage the paintjob if you apply it on top of a finished model

I know this because I got my varnish and lahmian mixed up, and the paint cracked where I had lathered it on

Good to know :o

GW really made it seem like it's a good finish for decals. Those rascals

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Aliensandwich posted:

Also: Does Lahmian Medium work well as a matte varnish? I plan on popping that on once the decals finally settle to undo the initial gloss layer

it can but it's more satin than matte, incredibly expensive as a clear coat, and does not form a strong coat. use something cheaper, or cheap gloss acrylic varnish covered with a coat of matte acrylic medium from a craft store

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

Aliensandwich posted:

GW really made it seem like it's a good finish for decals. Those rascals

Wait, they do? :raise:

Well that's weird, they actually do mention in in their latest iteration of painting videos for transfers.

DAD LOST MY IPOD
Feb 3, 2012

Fats Dominar is on the case


Virtual Russian posted:

I thought a Supa-Stompa was the size of a warhound?

It doesn’t map super cleanly but the actual stompa model is much closer in size to a warhound than a knight. For reference, an Acastus Knight (the largest knight, resin-only) is about 10” tall. A warhound is about 10.5” tall, but bulkier than a knight. A stompa is more then 11” tall, not counting the bosspole, and is significantly bulkier around the middle than a warhound.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
Whichever Ork big mech is the O.G dick-gun model from back in the day is the baseline against which all others should be measured for coolness.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

AndyElusive posted:

Microsol and Microset are your friends.

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

Cooked Auto posted:

Wait, they do? :raise:

Well that's weird, they actually do mention in in their latest iteration of painting videos for transfers.

Weird! Maybe it works fine if you're careful and just apply it on top of the decal itself? I'd still get an actual varnish, though!

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]
GW mentions Lahmian Medium as a matte varnish for going over decals because they have a policy of, wherever possible, only using their own products in their demo videos, and Lahmian Medium is the closest thing they sell to matte varnish. That does not mean it's the best product for that purpose, or even that the people filming the video think it's the best product for that purpose. I think it's Rogue Hobbies who has a story about when she was doing a blood tutorial for Warhammer TV and she begged them to let her use Uhu glue and they wouldn't let her, and she ended up doing something with a sprue and a candle to make stringy gore instead.

Stephenls fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Mar 25, 2024

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

Stephenls posted:

GW mentions Lahmian Medium as a matte varnish for going over decals because they have a policy of, wherever possible, only using their own products in their demo videos, and Lahmian Medium is the closest thing they sell to matte varnish. That does not mean it's the best product for that purpose, or even that the people filming the video think it's the best product for that purpose. I think it's Rogue Hobbies who has a story about when she was doing a blood tutorial for Warhammer TV and she begged them to let her use Uhu glue and they wouldn't let her, and she ended up doing something with a sprue and a candle to make stringy gore instead.

Yeah, but technical stormshield is a matte varnish and a GW product, so... I'm confused why they wouldn't just recommend that, but what do I know lol

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

bird food bathtub posted:

Whichever Ork big mech is the O.G dick-gun model from back in the day is the baseline against which all others should be measured for coolness.

gargant

the mega-garg has dog nipple guns

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

AndyElusive posted:

Microsol and Microset are your friends.

IMO Microset is not needed, but helps. Microsol is essential. I wouldn't even consider using decals without microsol, not an exaggeration.


DAD LOST MY IPOD posted:

It doesn’t map super cleanly but the actual stompa model is much closer in size to a warhound than a knight. For reference, an Acastus Knight (the largest knight, resin-only) is about 10” tall. A warhound is about 10.5” tall, but bulkier than a knight. A stompa is more then 11” tall, not counting the bosspole, and is significantly bulkier around the middle than a warhound.

Most of my 40k experience is in epic armageddon, and there stompas are light knights, and supa-stompas are warhound sized. Weird that 40k would scale them differently. They must have changed the size at some point in the last 20 years.

Aliensandwich
Jan 21, 2024

Virtual Russian posted:

IMO Microset is not needed, but helps. Microsol is essential. I wouldn't even consider using decals without microsol, not an exaggeration.



I just ordered the two-pack of em. They should be here in a few days.

Does microsol help get rid of those floppy edges?

I just tried putting a simple fire support logo on one of my Infernus guys and it looked almost perfect, except for the edges. Luckily I was able to scrape it off. I had gloss varnish down with some vinegar as a softening tool, but no luck :(

I know I'm missing something

Aliensandwich fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Mar 25, 2024

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Aliensandwich posted:

I just ordered the two-pack of em. They should be here in a few days.

Does microsol help get rid of those floppy edges?

I just tried putting a simple fire support logo on one of my Infernus guys and it looked almost perfect, except for the edges. Luckily I was able to scrape it off. I had gloss varnish down with some vinegar as a softening tool, but no luck :(

I know I'm missing something

Yeah it helps a ton. It actually is just solvent, so it partially dissolves the decal, and significantly softens it. My decals don't show an edge.

Be prepared to go nuts with decals, it becomes so easy. It is one of those things I wish someone showed me like 20 years back.

Aliensandwich
Jan 21, 2024
Good to know. I keep getting to the "almost perfect" stage, but those pesky edges keep flopping up.

I'm exited to get them to work! It looks SO good during the brief moment it's fully conformed to the model.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Aliensandwich posted:

Good to know. I keep getting to the "almost perfect" stage, but those pesky edges keep flopping up.

I'm exited to get them to work! It looks SO good during the brief moment it's fully conformed to the model.

You're doing better than I ever did without it.

a pale ghost
Dec 31, 2008

Any tips for a guard army on a budget?

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
eBay tanks and an ultrasonic cleaner

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Buy 3rd party plastic toy soldiers with guns for half the price or less.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Aliensandwich posted:

Good to know. I keep getting to the "almost perfect" stage, but those pesky edges keep flopping up.

I'm exited to get them to work! It looks SO good during the brief moment it's fully conformed to the model.

You will need a few rounds of microsol if the decals are particularly thick or the surface you're trying to conform them to is especially complex. It dissolves the carrier film away from the decal to leave just the printed ink behind if you use it very aggressively. They will also make the decals increasingly fragile the more you use it, so be gentle.

You mentioned varnish as well - best decal varnish you can use (and best protective varnish in general) is Quick Shine Multi Surface Floor Finish - it's acrylic varnish that's meant to be stepped on so it is both incredibly tough and gives you an extremely gloss coat with just one or two coats. You can brush it or spray it on neat from the bottle. Use it once before you lay down your decal and once more when the decal has been Microsol-ed to submission. In fact coat your entire model in it and use a nice matte varnish to knock down the gloss again (I recommend Winsor & Newton Galeria matte).

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
Bunch of Guard stuff is easy to proxy from other, cheaper, mini games. Stonkin' big artillery looks pretty same-y, doubly so when a bunch of it is modeled on the same stuff historically and the dudes with guns have the same path. Some of the vehicles are pretty unique I guess, but for those e-bay rescues work.

Edit: or my path of a 3D printer works really well but does have complexity concerns.

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



Varnish talk:
Vallejo Mecha Varnish is great and comes in gloss satin, and matt

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Aliensandwich
Jan 21, 2024

Z the IVth posted:

You will need a few rounds of microsol if the decals are particularly thick or the surface you're trying to conform them to is especially complex. It dissolves the carrier film away from the decal to leave just the printed ink behind if you use it very aggressively. They will also make the decals increasingly fragile the more you use it, so be gentle.

You mentioned varnish as well - best decal varnish you can use (and best protective varnish in general) is Quick Shine Multi Surface Floor Finish - it's acrylic varnish that's meant to be stepped on so it is both incredibly tough and gives you an extremely gloss coat with just one or two coats. You can brush it or spray it on neat from the bottle. Use it once before you lay down your decal and once more when the decal has been Microsol-ed to submission. In fact coat your entire model in it and use a nice matte varnish to knock down the gloss again (I recommend Winsor & Newton Galeria matte).

The decals on Space Marine intercessor pauldrons are what I've been dealing with currently. Not too complex, but just round enough to be annoying.

Do you lay on the Microsol after the decal has been placed?

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