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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Kylaer posted:

I'm going to make an order from Pro Acryl because their titanium white is so well regarded and nobody stocks it locally. Are there any other colors from their line that are must-haves?

Also order new bottle caps from them. People usually hate the stock ones at first and it just saves headaches.

Basically every color in the vince venturella package is fantastic. But unlike a lot of companies, their paints perform pretty uniformly. Like I haven't found one that requires me to work with it differently or require a different level of thinning. Some cover better than others (looking at you, greens and yellows) but they're all fantastic across the board.

Edit: my bottle of titanium white seems to be acting weird in that it's way thicker than the rest of the line, and it comes out more like a traditional heavy body acrylic. Is it hosed up or is that just how it is for everyone else?

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grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
e ^ That's awfully thick. My titanium white is probably a little thinner than most of my other ProAcryls.

Monument's Faded Plum and Dark Plum are extremely good desaturated light purples and rich purple-reds, respectively. The Royal Purple out of the Vince set is okay, but I'd rather spend a couple more bucks and get a gigantic thing of dioxazine purple gouache that I'll never run out of.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
It could just be that I need to clean out the cap, I'm going to try that tonight.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
My Pro Acryl Titanium White is also pretty thick.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
They make two different titanium whites, one is a heavy body. That could explain it....

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Miniatures Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

Super Waffle
Sep 25, 2007

I'm a hermaphrodite and my parents (40K nerds) named me Slaanesh, THANKS MOM
Does anyone know a color match replacement for the old Citadel Calthan Brown? The GW conversion chart says the new equivalent is Mournfang brown but mournfang is a lot more red, approaching a dark terracotta brown. Does AP or Vallejo have a match?

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Kylaer posted:

I'm going to make an order from Pro Acryl because their titanium white is so well regarded and nobody stocks it locally. Are there any other colors from their line that are must-haves?

Bold pyrole red
Mahogany


At a minimum

Safety Factor
Oct 31, 2009




Grimey Drawer

Flipswitch posted:

That blue is beautiful mate. How did you achieve it?

Thanks. Here's the recipe:

I prime black and start by base coating the models with a darker metallic blue. In this case, I used Warcolours'. Then I air brush up using Turbo Dork's Cool Ranch, Da Ba Dee, and Curacao. Each is applied in sequence in a smaller zenithal pattern so that the armor looks lighter on upper surfaces that would catch the light. I follow this up with a quick drybrush of GW's Grey Knights Steel. And, finally, two sets of highlights with Grey Knights Steel and Runefang.

I don't do the usual shade, clean up, highlight step with this armor. I apply my highlights as normal and shade later in the process. Once I've got the model more-or-less fully painted I seal with gloss varnish. I then go back with black oil paint to shade my metallics. This covers the blue armor, brass trim, and weapons. This is mostly used as a recess shade, but I experimented with dot filtering on these guys and I'll be doing it more in the future. I might mix a little blue in for that though.

I know this recipe is all over the place, but similar colors from other paint manufacturers would work fine. The blue has a lot of colors involved, but it's the first thing I do on the models and goes pretty quickly because so much of it is air brushing.

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry
Finished two more beakies

I've started playing around a bit with using very thinned out (with contrast medium) black templar contrast paint for shading, and I think I like how it looks. Didn't spend as much time on these guys as the last batch, but I had fun with the osl on both



tehsid
Dec 24, 2007

Nobility is sadly overrated.


Finished Vader last night and now that crew is complete. I really enjoyed painting these, but I absolutely need to work on smoother highlights and realistic ones. Some parts of Vader just look off, but I wanted to knock it over.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Lumpy posted:

They make two different titanium whites, one is a heavy body. That could explain it....

I have both, and I'm talking about the regular one. It still smooths up real nice with a touch of water, but it's noticeably thicker out of the bottle than the other colors.

tehsid posted:



Finished Vader last night and now that crew is complete. I really enjoyed painting these, but I absolutely need to work on smoother highlights and realistic ones. Some parts of Vader just look off, but I wanted to knock it over.

Looks great! I've painted the first Vader but not this one yet.

Aliensandwich
Jan 21, 2024
Finished putting on decals and varnishing a squad of Infernus Ultramarines, and I noticed a couple of them have some frosting here and there in the centers after putting on matte varnish. How can I avoid this?

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Nebalebadingdong posted:

buncha 6mm stuff

battlemechs!



medina shops from the lazy forger


gas tank from the lazy forger


scum tanks from iliada games


sand cat from iliada games


ram wagon from the lazy forger


Hate all of it, especially that last one where the base of the model lines up with the road

Cool as heck as ever!

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

Bohemian Nights posted:

Finished two more beakies

I've started playing around a bit with using very thinned out (with contrast medium) black templar contrast paint for shading, and I think I like how it looks. Didn't spend as much time on these guys as the last batch, but I had fun with the osl on both





Is that the Tudor rose on the second one's tit? Looks great whatever.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

SuperKlaus
Oct 20, 2005


Fun Shoe
Is LA Totally Awesome safe to put down my sink?

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Xpost from AOS thread

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Working on a cyberpunk morathi. Started with lesrathi







Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

BizarroAzrael posted:

Is that the Tudor rose on the second one's tit? Looks great whatever.

Thanks!
It’s actually an order of the bloody rose-decal from a sororitas kit, and it's only there to hide the crater left over from me experiencing decal regret and making a complete dogs breakfast out of removing the previous one post varnishing- won't make that mistake again, I hope

Professor Shark posted:

Hate all of it, especially that last one where the base of the model lines up with the road

Cool as heck as ever!

I especially hate this one, with fukken text on an ATM screen the size of an atom:


Nebalebadingdong posted:

medina shops from the lazy forger

Bohemian Nights fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Apr 3, 2024

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



Anyone have any experience modifying the characteristics of Golden crackle medium? Even the thinnest application results in platelets that are just too large for my preferred uses.
I'd like to decrease the size of the platelets by at least 50% to match some other brands of texture paint, specifically Martian Ironearth, but I'm having an incredibly hard time figuring out how to do it.

I've tried modifying the surface once I've spread it out with a palette knife with spritzes of flow aid, isopropyl 70%, and atomized dawn dish soap for example and if anything it's increased platelet size or stopped the mediums ability to crack entirely.. I've also gone in the opposite direction and tried using modeling paste and acrylics in different concentrations to adjust the cracking character but I've had no luck altering it's ability to crack, everything has inhibited it if anything.

My goal is to get something more like this


Instead of this



I've already emailed Golden directly and they were just :shrug:

If anyone has any tips I'd appreciate it.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Nebalebadingdong posted:

buncha 6mm stuff

battlemechs!



medina shops from the lazy forger


gas tank from the lazy forger


scum tanks from iliada games


sand cat from iliada games


ram wagon from the lazy forger


I love the trash cans next to the urbie, really gives a sense of scale

Also, phenomenal work

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Seriously, Nebalebadingdong, stage a fake battle using everything you’ve painted, which at this point must be a small city. I want to see it all together (with carefully included penny).

inscrutable horse
May 20, 2010

Parsing sage, rotating time



I'd sacrifice a good deal of my attention for a paint-along video from Neb. God drat!

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

Professor Shark posted:

Seriously, Nebalebadingdong, stage a fake battle using everything you’ve painted, which at this point must be a small city. I want to see it all together (with carefully included penny).

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Professor Shark posted:

Seriously, Nebalebadingdong, stage a fake battle using everything you’ve painted, which at this point must be a small city. I want to see it all together (with carefully included penny).

Dude has so many models painted at this point, how would he get them all on one table? It would need to be dozens of millimeters wide.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

Professor Shark posted:

Seriously, Nebalebadingdong, stage a fake battle using everything you’ve painted, which at this point must be a small city. I want to see it all together (with carefully included penny).

alot of the stuff from the previous thread i shipped off to a friend who will actually game with it so i don't have as much as you might think

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Xpost from AOS thread









This is awesome! Getting Shadowrun vibes from the fantasy/cyberpunk mashup.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I opened and promptly knocked over my new pot of Contrast Medium. I’m going to have to go back to using the pot base I 3D printed forever ago. I am so mad at myself.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

Professor Shark posted:

I opened and promptly knocked over my new pot of Contrast Medium. I’m going to have to go back to using the pot base I 3D printed forever ago. I am so mad at myself.

if it makes you feel any better, i bought a big bottle of airbrush medium last friday, put it into my coat pocket immediately after paying for it and lost it between the register and getting home, which is maybe 2km away. it wasn't in my car and when i went back to the store, it was gone.

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Is pigment binder mostly thinned down pva? Reason I'm asking is I have a pot from years ago I've never opened and it doesn't go off or anything and should be good to use?

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Professor Shark posted:

I opened and promptly knocked over my new pot of Contrast Medium. I’m going to have to go back to using the pot base I 3D printed forever ago. I am so mad at myself.

Kid went into my Ikea bin of basing supplies and knocked a litre of white glue sideways. Proceeded to slowly ooze through all my moss, Sand, cork, magnets etc

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001

Lumpy posted:

If they sell it separately, the Payne's Grey from Vince's set and the Dark Jade from his set as well. In fact, just get the whole set because every paint in it is a banger.

I gotta say I also picked up Ninjon's set because a lot of those colours are really great for fleshtones. I'm normally weary of influencer stuff but those two sets are really good that fill some gaps.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

w00tmonger posted:

Kid went into my Ikea bin of basing supplies and knocked a litre of white glue sideways. Proceeded to slowly ooze through all my moss, Sand, cork, magnets etc

I used to teach kids art, I feel your pain deeply.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

SuperKlaus posted:

Is LA Totally Awesome safe to put down my sink?

yeah, it's a soap.

Flipswitch posted:

Is pigment binder mostly thinned down pva?

no, it's some kind of paint medium, enamel or acrylic. depending on the brand, it can be self-leveling, have retardants, and or have matting agents.

PVA would kind of suck, it's not very self-leveling even if you thin it down

great big cardboard tube
Sep 3, 2003


Super long and not informative post, tl;dr is if you want to help me out look at my list and tell me if I'm stupid or could make better choices.

I'm not "new" to the hobby I did a lot of gluing plastic and metal and my fingers and splattering paint as a kid and then bought assembled and painted a squad I was actually really happy with and enjoyed the process in my 20s but I have not painted a mini in... 8 years?

I really enjoyed getting back to it when I did, just painting for fun. Stuff happened I lost those models tools and paints and fast forward to now I have the itch again and I want to jump back in with literally nothing other than a desk to work on and porch to spray from. And plastic cups and paper plates for paint and endless cardboard to prime on.

Here's my planned shopping list ready to fire on amazon to get a big bunch of minis I could potentially use in a local game and the tools and paints to get me going, is anything a standout mistake or am I missing anything obvious? I already know I'm not going to feel good using 3 colors with no primer or similar situations with "starter" sets with 2 minis and a brush.

AoS dominion: $104 on Amazon tons of minis will last me up to months of painting if I stick at it and I know there's a local scene for AoS and I'm interested in both platemail boys and orc nonsense.

Vallejo "acrylic 16 colors for fantasy figures": $33 seems to have the majority of colors I'd want, heard good things about the brand. I was a citadel paint slave before I've never tried a Vallejo paint.

Citadel nuln oil + agrax Earth shade: $20 total for a pot of each? 24ml each, still expensive but I see people gush about these washes and idk what else I'd pick.

Golden maple miniatures brushes 10pc: $17 I know they're lovely synthetic brushes but have high Amazon reviews and include a couple drybrushes so I don't have to ruin one first or intentionally ruin one.

Rust-Oleum 2x ultra cover spray primer, flat black and flat white: $17 for both. I've heard good and bad things about almost every primer this just seems the most economical.

IGAN-330 flush cutters: $8 clippers with tons of buys and good reviews I assume I'm safe here.

Excel k18 hobby knife: $9 and the op shouted it out sounds good enough for me.

Anezus "self healing sewing mat": $9 12x18 one of those green and white cross hatch mats the op told me to buy to protect my desk.

Loctite fun-tak mounting putty: $4 2ozs of blue tac so I can affix bases to cardboard to spray or test fit or stick bases to a makeshift handle to paint.

Total cost: $247 after tax shipped for everything. That's kinda a lot for a "getting back in" buy but dominion is sneaking 60 GW models into that, I'd love any advice before I just do it cause I want to build and paint again.

Paragon8
Feb 19, 2007

great big cardboard tube posted:

Super long and not informative post, tl;dr is if you want to help me out look at my list and tell me if I'm stupid or could make better choices.


Army Painter is releasing a new paint line which has got pretty great reviews and have a starter set coming out which includes a wash so you can consolidate a little bit there.

Dominion is a good deal if you love every single model but don't buy just because of volume. You'll have a better time painting stuff you really like the look of even if it isn't as efficient price per model. 20 hobgrot slittaz are just filler and not really that fun to work on.

There is a big AOS reboot coming in a few months which might catch your eye more.

Issaries
Sep 15, 2008

"At the end of the day
We are all human beings
My father once told me that
The world has no borders"

10 dollars for washes sounds like highway robbery, but that's just GW.

Vallejo, army painter and I assume other non GW-brands sell washes for way less.
Quick google says Vallejo washes are about 3.50 each and around 25 for a set of 8 colours. Way more value.
APs washes should be about the same or bit more.

Issaries
Sep 15, 2008

"At the end of the day
We are all human beings
My father once told me that
The world has no borders"

Oh and you're entering a dropper bottle territory so you can't just paint from the bottle any more.
You need a surface to mix and hold your paints. At the beginning anything non-porous will do.
Cut pieces from figure boxes (picture side). Old CDs etc.

You can buy a regular palette, but you don't really need to.
When you're sure about continuing painting, there's the magical world of wet palettes.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Making your own wet pallet is a painter rite of passage, like making your own lightsaber, imo

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Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry
I made my own and it worked alright, but I picked up one from greenstuff world that came packaged with 50 sheets, and I love it!

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