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deimos posted:This is an awesome response. I missed that the OP was a newbie. However, I do have to mention that, the many many caveats you mentioned notwithstanding, the K2 is a perfectly fine design that scales to 500. At that size you're almost guaranteed to be spending a ridiculous amount of money ($500 on the bed alone easily, another $500 on the toolhead with either something custom built for pellets or something like a chube that can have a 140W heater), I thought OP knew what they were getting into. ... CNCKitchen's V0 printed from nylon, that needed to be re-leveled each print because the bed mounts got over the glass transition temp. The PETG question comes up every other week on the ~not voron controlled~ forums. I'd go on a long rant about understanding plastic and how to extrude it, but it's clear that's a lesson nobody actually really wants to learn.
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Apr 1, 2024 05:30
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Nerobro posted:K2? https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Chhogori-K2 Mostly laser cut parts for the important bits, 12mm belts, CrossXY motion.
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Apr 1, 2024 06:13
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 eyyy another 1k done, maybe 10k this year if the rest of the year is real busy!
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Apr 1, 2024 06:42
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Congratulations!
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Apr 1, 2024 08:15
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On that K2, I'm curious as to why they went with belts to lift the bed instead of lead screws. You'd think that latter are a safer option, with what being self-locking to some degree.
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Apr 1, 2024 09:34
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deimos posted:https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Chhogori-K2 I've seen printers with this mechanism before. I'm not a huge fan of it? If you're not looking to have a toolchanger, I'm on board, but it also forces you to have a quite tall print head, and limits where you can put things like cooling, and electronics. It also necessarily makes the printer taller as you have a 15-30mm space in the middle you can't put hardware. You also have two "fairly springy" bits of steel as the support, and they're structurally not great. As mentioned earlier in this thread, linear rails are "solutions". And this is definitely making the best use of that solution. It's not an engineering decision I'd make, but that's ~me~. I like that they mounted the belts "down" as opposed to something like the rook where the motors are "up". Putting the belts closer to the frame is a very good design decision. Combat Pretzel posted:On that K2, I'm curious as to why they went with belts to lift the bed instead of lead screws. You'd think that latter are a safer option, with what being self-locking to some degree. Belts are easy. Belts don't need a hacksaw to cut. Belts are infinite. Belts have no backlash. Belts are floppy, so don't need decoupling devices. Belts don't need thrust bearings. The Trident (and now the V0..) are both quite limited by the motors and leadscrews that are available. The Tridents Z range is defined by the length of leadscrews they could reasonably order. Going with integrated motors and leadscrews is it's own... ~choice~ as well. It saves some 30mm. It appears the K3 uses leadscrews.
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Apr 1, 2024 11:14
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I mean, I own a V2.4 and wouldn't change it. Low center of gravity/flying portal is why I went for it. But I figured it had a reason they went the other way with Trident and keep recommending that one over the V2.4, when someone asks. So I was surprised to see a moving bed printer with belts.
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Apr 1, 2024 13:39
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Combat Pretzel posted:I mean, I own a V2.4 and wouldn't change it. Low center of gravity/flying portal is why I went for it. But I figured it had a reason they went the other way with Trident and keep recommending that one over the V2.4, when someone asks. So I was surprised to see a moving bed printer with belts. The trident is "strictly better" for most applications. The 2.x series printers "needs" to QGL. It needs a flexible gantry to do that. It needs to trust the bed. The 2.4 starts the print in the cold part of the chamber, and moves up and into the hot part. This means your active print area "moves through" different environments. This is a big reason for underbed fans and even the nevermore. Because the gantry moves, you need to have a lot of "active" wiring, and you'll see lots of people having to rewire their gantries. The 2.4's true advantage, is because it's a fixed bed printer, no amount of print weight changes the performance of the printer. It's also neat a hell to watch run. The trident has the same gantry as the 2.4, but it's bolted in place, so it's stiffer. The frame supports the ends, so it's rigid in more directions, so gantry sag isn't really a thing. The gantry doesn't.. move.. so you don't pick up error from the rails or the shape of the printer. Even better, the frame of refrence of the gantry to the bed is very tightly coupled, so there's no real way for shake to develop between those two elements. Sadly, because the bed moves, it can introduce issues into the print that comes from moving the print. There's a lot of belt Z mods for Vorons. V0, lots of the printers for ants. And I believe there's also ones for the trident.
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Apr 1, 2024 14:16
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Nerobro posted:The trident is "strictly better" for most applications. The 2.x series printers "needs" to QGL. It needs a flexible gantry to do that. It needs to trust the bed. Biggest problem with the bed is the coupling with the frame. If you tighten the four screws it will taco as it heats up. There are third party mods to kinematically couple the bed, but the general recommendation is to only tighten two of the bed screws, loosely tighten a third and leave the fourth relatively loose. Nerobro posted:Ah, HAH, the K2 isn't a CoreXY machine, Never said it was. deimos fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Apr 1, 2024 |
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Apr 1, 2024 16:52
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Anyone near Toronto want to buy a barely used Prusa MK3S+ with Revo installed? Long shot I know...
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Apr 1, 2024 19:46
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Based on my attempts to sell my Mk3s+, the market for them is... unfortunate for sellers these days.
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Apr 2, 2024 00:20
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I went hog wild with some soluble filament I finally opened, seeing how well my XL would print a challenging model. This is a Baphomet model I modified into an xmas tree topper because I always thought it would be a good secret santa gift. I think it turned out pretty well! Except that the soluble filament doesn't stick to PLA very reliably, so it seems best applied in a "supports only on build plate" situation. Still, not bad at all and I really like the way I was able to make the eyes black with another filament.  e: printed flat on its back, soluble supports everywhere which was, uh, dense all right. What a mess dissolving that poo poo!
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Apr 2, 2024 00:29
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Now that I have a printer again I'm thinking about trying a new cad program. Has anyone tried both plasticity and solid edge? If so, any preference?
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Apr 2, 2024 03:58
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Hypnolobster posted:Based on my attempts to sell my Mk3s+, the market for them is... unfortunate for sellers these days. Ya I can't compete when someone locally is selling 10 of them for $350 CAD each, I guess they replaced their entire farm. Another person is offering free lessons with it. I wish my friends had nerdier kids. 
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Apr 2, 2024 04:35
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 Thank you to everyone who suggested various fixes for the weird seams issue I was having. I checked the hotend for gaps and tightened the nozzle and began a series of scientific tests to discover the issue. Turned out it was mostly a retraction settings thing with just a little bit of pressure advance thrown in for good measure. Reason why I was having such a horrible time trying to troubleshoot it was turned out orcaslicer was passing along pressure advance values to the Qidi in the tests, but not when doing actual prints! Thanks again to everyone that helped.
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Apr 2, 2024 08:44
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Google Butt posted:Now that I have a printer again I'm thinking about trying a new cad program. Has anyone tried both plasticity and solid edge? If so, any preference? What are you planning on making? Plasticity is oriented towards artists, Solid Edge definitely not so. Solid Edge I believe has a free hobbyist edition, as does NX (you have to renew the license every year online). So does Onshape, which I consistently recommend because its free elearning platform is aces. SOLIDWORKS Makers Offer has desktop SOLIDWORKS and browser based design tools. It had a rocky first two years but it’s a substantially better product now. There’s also a CAD thread where you can get opinions from lots of folks! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962532&perpage=40&pagenumber=1&noseen=1
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Apr 2, 2024 12:31
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What are you printing? The Incredible Hulk?
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Apr 2, 2024 16:03
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Weird issue I've got going on with my Elegoo Saturn 2. I've had it for probably a year and it's been a workhorse, but yesterday it started grinding and getting stuck when lifting (the slow motion, not retracting) from the screen. Moving up and down manually works fine, but a handful of layers into a print, it'll grind while moving upward and get stuck. I took a video, this is layer 2 of a print: https://imgur.com/a/UhsDkqT As you can see it gets stuck and takes a few seconds of pushing before it gets loose. Once it does it'll move up and down the rod manually just fine. I took the rod/motor assembly out and cleaned it real good, same issue. I took the vat out and did a dry run of the same print (in case it was a weird suction issue), same thing. Also I've leveled the plate half a dozen times today, that's not an issue. Any ideas? I've already emailed Elegoo about getting a replacement rod/motor assembly, cause I'm stumped.
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Apr 2, 2024 21:10
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I've run into my first weird thing with the P1S. I'm printing out some of the honeycomb wall stuff and for some reason the only things refusing to stay attached to the build plate are the 2, 3, or 4 set connectors. It's really strange everything else has worked flawlessly. Just tried printing with the door open and nothing.
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Apr 3, 2024 22:49
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https://va.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_sbfgfdJgkz1a2hxyk_720.mp4 See if this embeds, just a very short clip, testing some new parts cooling duct designs. Going to try and mount up the camera properly on a USB extension with the macro lens on tomorrow. kid sinister posted:What are you printing? The Incredible Hulk? Careful, OP might also be Da J0k3r
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Apr 4, 2024 18:19
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aaaa have my first ever trade show coming up in 2 weeks, scary!
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Apr 5, 2024 22:03
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Trade shows are generally very fun! I’m sure you’re going to crush it.
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Apr 5, 2024 22:34
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queeb posted:
Some days late, but huge congrats! I've got your shop saved now, don't have too many tabletop gaming friends but will certainly name drop if the opportunity arises.
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Apr 5, 2024 22:58
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Acid Reflux posted:Some days late, but huge congrats! I've got your shop saved now, don't have too many tabletop gaming friends but will certainly name drop if the opportunity arises. thank you!! yeah things are picking up this month again,  already up a hundo since that post lol. estimating a ~200k year if the leadup to christmas is good, could hit 10k total sales this year or more if the trajectory keeps up which is nutso
queeb fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Apr 6, 2024 |
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Apr 6, 2024 00:19
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queeb posted:thank you!! yeah things are picking up this month again, I'm not a tabletop gamer myself, but I work with a few people who have a pretty big crew of people who are. I'll pass along your shop too. And even brow-beat them a little bit.
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Apr 6, 2024 01:42
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queeb posted:thank you!! yeah things are picking up this month again, Small world, I used to live like 35 mins from Townsend and still have relatives that live in Brantford.
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Apr 6, 2024 02:40
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mattfl posted:Small world, I used to live like 35 mins from Townsend and still have relatives that live in Brantford. hell yeah southern ontario represent
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Apr 6, 2024 02:58
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What's your guys go-to pla and petg these days? I need to re-up now that I have my a1 mini
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Apr 6, 2024 03:36
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i use eryone PLA, cheapest i can find in canada and it prints amazingly well
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Apr 6, 2024 04:45
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queeb posted:thank you!! yeah things are picking up this month again, Big congratulations! Had a look at your store and it looks excellent. As someone who is new to FDM printing what sort of speeds are you getting up to for these large volumes? And I assume you aren't just melting the three printers you had a picture of a while back?
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Apr 6, 2024 11:32
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I have 8 p1ps, an a1 mini and a ender 3 s1 plus, and then 6 mono x2s for minis. I'm worried about Christmas though since I'm already close to maxed out in FDM with my current volume so I'll probably be adding at least 5 more p1ps
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Apr 6, 2024 15:23
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queeb posted:I have 8 p1ps, an a1 mini and a ender 3 s1 plus, and then 6 mono x2s for minis. I'm worried about Christmas though since I'm already close to maxed out in FDM with my current volume so I'll probably be adding at least 5 more p1ps Bump up those price yo
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Apr 6, 2024 15:29
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queeb posted:I have 8 p1ps, an a1 mini and a ender 3 s1 plus, and then 6 mono x2s for minis. I'm worried about Christmas though since I'm already close to maxed out in FDM with my current volume so I'll probably be adding at least 5 more p1ps How many rolls of filament do you keep on hand lol
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Apr 6, 2024 21:22
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20-30 usually haha, I buy 20 more when I get down to like 15
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Apr 6, 2024 21:29
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How often are you buying, once a week?
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Apr 7, 2024 02:53
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queeb posted:20-30 usually haha, I buy 20 more when I get down to like 15 Do you print all of your terrain stuff in the same color? I have 20+ rolls and don't even print that much, but I like having a ton of colors on hand.
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Apr 7, 2024 03:04
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Dome Update 107 sqft geodesic greenhouse. Still need to cover it with plastic and frame out an entrance All ASA and 1x2's, would recommend
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Apr 7, 2024 04:25
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WhiteHowler posted:Do you print all of your terrain stuff in the same color? Yeah literally the only color I have is grey in my shop right now lol, and that's all I buy. And yeah once a week, I'm spending about ~400 a week on materials right now or so
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Apr 7, 2024 07:12
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queeb posted:Yeah literally the only color I have is grey in my shop right now lol, and that's all I buy. What filament brand do you use?
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Apr 7, 2024 07:57
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Ziggy Smalls posted:What filament brand do you use? Like 5 posts up Queeb says he's using Eryone PLA.
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Apr 7, 2024 09:15
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