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Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
what a delightful and cantankerous gasoline consumer, holy poo poo

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
i bought a jeep just so i would stop doing poo poo like this to my daily driver, but then i broke the jeep lol

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
do not ask me about my (mostly comedy, but what if????) plans to lift my miata and slam my expedition

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
i approve. bonus points if the expedition is 4x4 so you get those four-wheel street launches.

there's a guy with a lifted NA around the corner from me, he always seems like he's having a good time

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
the fun part is that the Dad who specced my expedition went for the eddie bauer tier but made two critical adjustments:

* downspecced the third row seats from power to the old manual levers
* turned down the airbag suspension on the eddie bauer tier for traditional shocks and struts

the first is why i don't have to buy $900 gear motors to make my seats work after 15 years. the second one is what would let me drop it with zero angst.

Good dad.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
hell yeah. post a project thread and do it up.

or, rather, down.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

This Eddie Bauer guy sure owned a lot of cars

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



I'm still researching this, and have read the NJ-DMV pages on this, but:



I bought a VeloSolex. Not sure yet of the year - have to disassemble it far enough to find the engine number - but it's no newer than 1987 (based on the insurance card taped onto it). It was shipped from France within the past 30-years. It never had a title (France didn't, and still may not, title these smaller motorbikes).

I'm interested in titling it for possible future sale. Beyond testing short joyrides around the block, I do not intend to ride it (I'm over 300-lbs anyway. The bike may be able to take that weight for a short while, but I;m not interested in failure physics). Also, New Jersey is no fun at all, it has to be registered as a M/C because it has an ICE. If it was an electric bike - and those are arguably more powerful & faster than a Solex - they'd waive all that.

At the least I'm going to completely restore it to fully operating condition, and probably take it to car shows in the bed of the Econoline.

Has anyone any experience in obtaining a first-time title? I have a signed bill of sale that me & the seller drew up.

If it's too much of a PITA I probably won't bother

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Apr 10, 2024

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



PainterofCrap posted:

I'm still researching this, and have read the NJ-DMV pages on this, but:



Has anyone any experience in obtaining a first-time title? I have a signed bill of sale that me & the seller drew up.

Id reach out to the DMV about new titling for kit cars and imported vehicles. They should have a system in place for this type of stuff.

Its also worth looking into how NJ handles titles and registration of mopeds, as a lot of places differentiate them from motorcycles. The line is usually based on engine size.


Its also not fair to post a Javelin on a back road, that kinda feels like its natural habitat. AMCs are built for gravel roads in Wisconsin.
Im just jealous. I always loved the Javelins and AMXs

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

Just noticed on my '21 highlander that the AC blows much harder when I go above 52mph. I first noticed it seemed to not be blowing as hard as I expected on the setting it was on then noticed when I go above 52mph it blows harder at the speed I would expect. I know there is an expected voltage difference from the alternator that can affect fan speeds but this is new behavior and very noticable.

I'm about to head to my parents 3.5 hours away this afternoon and come back on Friday and they live in bumfuck nowhere with limited car repair options. Should I be worried? I don't mind taking the trip if it's just my AC that could go out but if it's my alternator or something like that I really don't want to be stuck their for extra time. What am I looking at?

little_firebird
Sep 1, 2008

Why don't you
just eat your
belly button and die?!

VelociBacon posted:

Yeah it's not a factor at all. There are a lot of other good small cars too so if you have the chance to go test drive a lot of things you might find another little econobox you like. Specifically I'd make sure you try a golf hatchback.

Unfortunately, the golf looks like it'd be outside my comfort zone spending-wise. I don't doubt they're good vehicles, but I don't have any personal experience with them.

The dumbest thing about my whole 5" ground clearance paranoia is that my first long-term owned car was an '03 civic hybrid. Miss that drat thing (and I should probably still have it tbh, barely cracked 100k on it before the dealership told me the frame was rusting out when I took it in for a recall.) Been driving an SUV for the last four or so years so the thought of losing that extra two inches of clearance did something weird to my brain, I guess! Kinda curious on what the new civic hybrid is gonna look like and function since the previous version barely felt like a hybrid at all. Just had an extra $5k battery-assist. :v:

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

D-Pad posted:

Just noticed on my '21 highlander that the AC blows much harder when I go above 52mph. I first noticed it seemed to not be blowing as hard as I expected on the setting it was on then noticed when I go above 52mph it blows harder at the speed I would expect. I know there is an expected voltage difference from the alternator that can affect fan speeds but this is new behavior and very noticable.

I'm about to head to my parents 3.5 hours away this afternoon and come back on Friday and they live in bumfuck nowhere with limited car repair options. Should I be worried? I don't mind taking the trip if it's just my AC that could go out but if it's my alternator or something like that I really don't want to be stuck their for extra time. What am I looking at?

Does the quantity of air coming through the vents change, or does it just get noticeably colder? Is your AC set to fresh air or recirculated air?

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

Safety Dance posted:

Does the quantity of air coming through the vents change, or does it just get noticeably colder? Is your AC set to fresh air or recirculated air?

The volume and how hard it's blowing and it was set to recirculated. I'm about to run an errand and I'll try a few different settings to see if I can figure out more variables.

Like I said if it's an AC issue that's fine but if it's an alternator or something I need to cancel my trip.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Raluek posted:

there's a guy with a lifted NA around the corner from me, he always seems like he's having a good time
There is a great essential truth in this text.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
I'm wondering if the climate control issue is a vacuum thing. A lot of vehicles use engine vacuum to actuate the blend doors and such for climate control and it's possible there's a leak. Though with such a late model vehicle, i'd think you wouldn't have anything like that going on yet

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
On modern cars blend door actuators are all servos. Almost nothing is driven off of vacuum.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

D-Pad posted:

Just noticed on my '21 highlander that the AC blows much harder when I go above 52mph. I first noticed it seemed to not be blowing as hard as I expected on the setting it was on then noticed when I go above 52mph it blows harder at the speed I would expect. I know there is an expected voltage difference from the alternator that can affect fan speeds but this is new behavior and very noticable.

I'm about to head to my parents 3.5 hours away this afternoon and come back on Friday and they live in bumfuck nowhere with limited car repair options. Should I be worried? I don't mind taking the trip if it's just my AC that could go out but if it's my alternator or something like that I really don't want to be stuck their for extra time. What am I looking at?

Assuming the AC compressor is driven off a pulley in your vehicle (so not an electric compressor), it's somewhat normal for AC to perform better when the engine is at rpms over 2-3k because the compressor pulley is being spun more quickly. Assuming also that you have an automatic, and with the propensity of modern automatics to shift up early for economy reasons, I would think that above 52mph just happens to be when the rpm is higher because the vehicle is possibly in its top gear. Unless something has changed recently with your AC, I would think this is just how it's supposed to go.

D-Pad
Jun 28, 2006

VelociBacon posted:

Assuming the AC compressor is driven off a pulley in your vehicle (so not an electric compressor), it's somewhat normal for AC to perform better when the engine is at rpms over 2-3k because the compressor pulley is being spun more quickly. Assuming also that you have an automatic, and with the propensity of modern automatics to shift up early for economy reasons, I would think that above 52mph just happens to be when the rpm is higher because the vehicle is possibly in its top gear. Unless something has changed recently with your AC, I would think this is just how it's supposed to go.

Yeah except I've had the car since I bought it new and it wasn't doing it until today. :shrug:

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Well I changed the tires on my Yaris to summer tires last night, I also transported some other tires and I can get six tires in the trunk with seats folded down.

Anyway I used the torque wrench to tighten the bolts to spec, or a little above (76 ft lbs, I set the wrench to 110nm which is a bit more). Feels eerily light torque compared to what I am used to put on them...

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

His Divine Shadow posted:

Well I changed the tires on my Yaris to summer tires last night, I also transported some other tires and I can get six tires in the trunk with seats folded down.

Anyway I used the torque wrench to tighten the bolts to spec, or a little above (76 ft lbs, I set the wrench to 110nm which is a bit more). Feels eerily light torque compared to what I am used to put on them...

I use a torque stick on my impact for lugs now and it never feels tight enough to me either. Probably because for decades i never torqued them down properly and just made them as tight as i possibly could.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Im considering upgrading from my 2011 Honda Civic. Id like more cargo space, so Im thinking either a hatchback or a station wagon. Which of those is a better fit for my use case? Im the only driver and usually the only person in the car, so Im not going to be hauling a bunch of people very often. Cargo space would be for hauling medium-large cargo like flatpack furniture, grocery runs, etc.

And in the meantime, would it be worthwhile to invest in some detailing and maintenance/upgrades to my Civic? Would that command more value on a trade-in?

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
if you're trading it in almost certainly not

Station wagons that have been solid in America in the last... 10 years:
1) A4 Avant / Allroad - nice, luxurious, expensive, not common
2) A6 Avant / Allroad - nice, luxurious, expensive, not common
3) Golf/Jetta Sportwagen/Alltrack - fairly good and more comparable to the Civic in terms of size and driving experience, generally avoid TDIs unless you know what you are getting in to, Mk7 cars are quite reliable
4) Volvo V60 / V60XC - not the most reliable thing in the world but they are pretty nice inside and out, expensive
5) Volvo V90 / V90XC - scarce as hens teeth, expensive
6) Buick Regal TourX - quite good but not common
7) Mercedes E Class - very nice but expensive
8) Mini Clubman - technically a wagon, uncommon, quite fun to drive
9) Porsche Taycan and Panamera - lol

Your options are limited - the only cars kind of within the "civic equivalent" space are the Volkswagens, kind of the Clubman if you squint, and the Regal TourX. and for your use case a hatchback will be perfectly fine and opens up a host of other opportunities.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Hatch sounds good to me. Though Im also realizing Im deeply car-stupid, especially considering Ive had a starter Civic for 13 years. Ill research durable and reliable hatchbacks then and not worry too much about my current car, thanks!

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Pollyanna posted:

Hatch sounds good to me. Though Im also realizing Im deeply car-stupid, especially considering Ive had a starter Civic for 13 years. Ill research durable and reliable hatchbacks then and not worry too much about my current car, thanks!

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538

that's the car buying thread which is pretty good but the standard thread recs are gonna be Gods Own Chariot the Toyota Prius, mazda3, civic hatch, corolla hatch, and probably the impreza/crosstrek although i personally don't care for those and they are much less reliable than the others

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

if you're trading it in almost certainly not

Station wagons that have been solid in America in the last... 10 years:
1) A4 Avant / Allroad - nice, luxurious, expensive, not common
2) A6 Avant / Allroad - nice, luxurious, expensive, not common
3) Golf/Jetta Sportwagen/Alltrack - fairly good and more comparable to the Civic in terms of size and driving experience, generally avoid TDIs unless you know what you are getting in to, Mk7 cars are quite reliable
4) Volvo V60 / V60XC - not the most reliable thing in the world but they are pretty nice inside and out, expensive
5) Volvo V90 / V90XC - scarce as hens teeth, expensive
6) Buick Regal TourX - quite good but not common
7) Mercedes E Class - very nice but expensive
8) Mini Clubman - technically a wagon, uncommon, quite fun to drive
9) Porsche Taycan and Panamera - lol

Your options are limited - the only cars kind of within the "civic equivalent" space are the Volkswagens, kind of the Clubman if you squint, and the Regal TourX. and for your use case a hatchback will be perfectly fine and opens up a host of other opportunities.

You're gonna list the V60xc and not the Subaru Outback? :mad:

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538

that's the car buying thread which is pretty good but the standard thread recs are gonna be Gods Own Chariot the Toyota Prius, mazda3, civic hatch, corolla hatch, and probably the impreza/crosstrek although i personally don't care for those and they are much less reliable than the others

Yeah, Ive heard good things about all of those (maybe less so the Subarus).

One point got brought up regarding the advantages of hatchback-form crossovers over hatchback-form sedans. Think Mazda 3 vs. Mazda CX-5. I hear that it might be worth getting a car with higher lift and tire size due to the roads in my area being poo poo and badly maintained with potholes and garbage. Im not really sure how crossovers compare to standard hatchbacks otherwise. What else would I be trading on?

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Apr 11, 2024

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Safety Dance posted:

You're gonna list the V60xc and not the Subaru Outback? :mad:

the outback is a CUV and the V60XC is a V60 with a mild lift

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Pollyanna posted:

Yeah, Ive heard good things about all of those (maybe less so the Subarus).

One point got brought up regarding the advantages of hatchback-form crossovers over hatchback-form sedans. Think Mazda 3 vs. Mazda CX-5. I hear that it might be worth getting a car with higher lift and tire size due to the roads in my area being poo poo and badly maintained with potholes and garbage. Im not really sure how crossovers compare to standard hatchbacks otherwise. What else would I be trading on?

you live in :wrongcity: not Kinshasa. you will be just fine. don't drive in to actively huge pot holes, this is good advice no matter what you drive. bigger wheels and tires are not good as typically this means more wheel and less tire, which is worse for road / impacts / etc

crossovers are taller, worse to drive, worse fuel economy versions of hatchbacks and wagons. the advantage is you get a a couple of inches of ground clearance that don't actually do anything for you

DildenAnders
Mar 16, 2016

"I recommend Batman especially, for he tends to transcend the abysmal society in which he's found himself. His morality is rather rigid, also. I rather respect Batman.”
Idk about how old you feel like going, but the first generation Matrix (basically a Corolla hatch, but wagon-like in terms of space inside) is amazing for hauling stuff around, good gas milage, even pretty fun to drive with a 5-speed and of course fairly bulletproof.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

D-Pad posted:

Just noticed on my '21 highlander that the AC blows much harder when I go above 52mph. I first noticed it seemed to not be blowing as hard as I expected on the setting it was on then noticed when I go above 52mph it blows harder at the speed I would expect. I know there is an expected voltage difference from the alternator that can affect fan speeds but this is new behavior and very noticable.

I'm about to head to my parents 3.5 hours away this afternoon and come back on Friday and they live in bumfuck nowhere with limited car repair options. Should I be worried? I don't mind taking the trip if it's just my AC that could go out but if it's my alternator or something like that I really don't want to be stuck their for extra time. What am I looking at?

Alternator issue is a possibility. Best way to test would be to watch the voltage while driving. An OBD2 reader can do this. Multimeter while revving the engine would work too.

Is it really speed dependent or rpm dependant? Any lights dimming at idle then picking up with rpm? Does cranking the engine first thing in the morning seem sluggish?

It could also be something with how the blower speed is controlled or the blower itself.

Not a car I know anything about so can't give specifics.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

DildenAnders posted:

Idk about how old you feel like going, but the first generation Matrix (basically a Corolla hatch, but wagon-like in terms of space inside) is amazing for hauling stuff around, good gas milage, even pretty fun to drive with a 5-speed and of course fairly bulletproof.

The matrix and Pontiac vibe are amazing.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Except for that weirdo thing where the odometer cant roll past 260k. Its just so strange.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Except for that weirdo thing where the odometer can’t roll past 260k. It’s just so strange.

Wait. What???

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
yeah some matrices and vibes will just cap at 299999mi. then u gotta start checking the 'inaccurate odometer' box on the vehicle title

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
The funniest ones are certain older Fords that once they hit 399,999.9 they roll back... To 300,000.0 and continue counting back to 399,999.9 again. Even some Ford digital odometers do this.

Between the numbers 1, 2, and 3, literally only one segment of an LCD display for the 6th digit is never used. I don't believe that segment is even missing. Ford simply made the engineering decision to roll over from 400k back to 300k, repeatedly. Why? Who knows.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

kastein posted:

The funniest ones are certain older Fords that once they hit 399,999.9 they roll back... To 300,000.0 and continue counting back to 399,999.9 again. Even some Ford digital odometers do this.

Between the numbers 1, 2, and 3, literally only one segment of an LCD display for the 6th digit is never used. I don't believe that segment is even missing. Ford simply made the engineering decision to roll over from 400k back to 300k, repeatedly. Why? Who knows.

I would think because it more accurately represents the real mileage but still allows tracking of the mileage.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I kinda impulse bought some unused headers for A-body Dodge Dart that turned out to be Flowtech ones (cheapo ish brand I think?). I think they are for a bit later models though, but hopefully I can make them fit if I use them. One is assembled but the other side is in parts. Cost me $100 shipped (about 1/2 of what a rust rear end log manifold costs) so I figured why not. Anyone got any experience with them? They should fit my 273 V8 if I don't find a decent log style manifold to replace the cracked one I have.

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Apr 12, 2024

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

VelociBacon posted:

I would think because it more accurately represents the real mileage but still allows tracking of the mileage.

how does it more accurately represent the real mileage?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

kastein posted:

Ford simply made the engineering decision to roll over from 400k back to 300k, repeatedly. Why? Who knows.

They never thought the cars would last that long.

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wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
When you're installing a heli-coil or whatever brand of thread repair insert, is it worth the time to put loctite on the insert?

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