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I'd be trying: - hail mary with vice grips on the remaining bit sticking out - drilling the whole thing out and using as low profile as possible a bolt/nut combo in place of the threaded hole.
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# ? Apr 23, 2024 20:14 |
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# ? Jun 1, 2024 17:59 |
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vikingstrike posted:Use the BCD at the bottom. 120/90. Then just buy whatever size rings you want (52/36 etc) Thanks, do the bolts come with the chainrings, or is that something I have to order separately? I'm guessing that spider is stuffed because of the missing bolt, do I just need to find a BB30 compatible spider? Sticky Date fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Apr 23, 2024 |
# ? Apr 23, 2024 23:41 |
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webcams for christ posted:The Nub. You might be able to use a dremel tool or a hacksaw to put a slot into the nub and use a screwdriver on it. Edit: Responded to the wrong OP.
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# ? Apr 23, 2024 23:45 |
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Sticky Date posted:Thanks, do the bolts come with the chainrings, or is that something I have to order separately? Might want to check but generally I don’t think bolts come with. You may be able to reuse what you have though. Bottom bracket doesn’t have anything to do with rings. Bottom bracket is related to the crank itself fitting on your frame. The BCD tell you the bolt order and spacing needing to fit rings to the crank.
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 02:39 |
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The spider is specific to those cannondale cranks. Chainrings bolts are usually pretty generic so you probably don't need anything specific for those rings. Kind of a weird bolt pattern for road rings though so if you can't find some another option would be to get direct mount cannondale chainrings that don't use a separate spider but those cost more. https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/gear/components/cranks-and-chainrings/chainrings/hollowgram-spidering-8-arm a cannondale 5x110 spider plus regular 5x110 rings would be another option you need a special tool to remove the crank arms from the spindle that goes through the bottom bracket as well as one to remove and install the spider. Although I think the spider lockring tool is some sort of a more generic BB tool. And the crank arm tool is basically just two threaded plugs that create an extractor. jamal fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Apr 30, 2024 |
# ? Apr 24, 2024 03:26 |
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the Rival 22 front brake has a lot more clearance than the old 10 speed unit! no more rubbing with 28mm tires. really glad I didnt' have to swap out the entire fork. now i just need to replace the front tire after some dipshit tweaker tried to slash the sidewall in anger because he couldn't get the locking skewer off
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# ? May 1, 2024 02:20 |
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Bianchi and you're running SRAM instead of Campagnolo? I thought you made good money man.
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# ? May 1, 2024 02:59 |
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Coxswain Balls posted:Bianchi and you're running SRAM instead of Campagnolo? I thought you made good money man.
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# ? May 1, 2024 03:27 |
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I found out recently that they're starting to make cool locks with ceramic coatings that melt power tools, but unfortunately that doesn't help with stripping parts or just cutting whatever you're locked to. My current ride is my friend's stolen bike from when his garage was broken into, and over the next 2-3 years every time he'd see it in the wild the police wouldn't do poo poo. The very last time we found it and the police said they wouldn't do anything again he called me up and we followed the dude home. Turned out to be in the richest part of town and was a methed up failson of the most disappointed lawyer dad when we confirmed it was stolen. Coxswain Balls fucked around with this message at 03:53 on May 1, 2024 |
# ? May 1, 2024 03:51 |
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yeah the only time i've had a lock cut is when my old apartment building wanted to take out a bike rack and just decided to cut off all the locks, throw away the bikes, and lie about it. every other time, it's been a tweaker with a set of allen keys. bike theft in denver got bad right around the time everyone's rent went up by 50% in 2015, and only got worse. when we moved into our new place, I got a few of those kryptonite floor anchors and chains, then rented a hammer drill to sink them into the foundation. our best anti-theft device, however, is our downstairs neighbor's ebike that is just sitting unlocked in the garage waiting to get disappeared. TenementFunster fucked around with this message at 04:07 on May 1, 2024 |
# ? May 1, 2024 04:05 |
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The hex bolt on my quill stem is stripped, how do I get it free?
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# ? May 5, 2024 23:30 |
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You can try pounding a sacrificial Torx bit into there and using that to back it out. My personal success rate with that is only 1/3. Usually I can’t drive it in deep enough.
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# ? May 6, 2024 00:24 |
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The other thing I've had success with before is take a flathead screwdriver you don't care about that looks like it will fit across the hex, and hammer it in. This is last resort type stuff.
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# ? May 6, 2024 02:50 |
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Have you tried big locking vise grip pliers?
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# ? May 6, 2024 04:20 |
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Mederlock posted:Have you tried big locking vise grip pliers? Aren't qill stem bolts usually flush with the top? There isn't anything to grip, at least on my stem. Anyway I gave my stripped bolt another couple of goes, with my dremel, vice pliers, etc but since I don't have a work bench or vice, didn't trust freestyle drilling too much. Found a local metal shop that drilled it out and re-threaded it for webcams for christ fucked around with this message at 09:05 on May 6, 2024 |
# ? May 6, 2024 07:54 |
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webcams for christ posted:Aren't qill stem bolts usually flush with the top? There isn't anything to grip, at least on my stem. Mine's just a basic bolt sitting proud of the stem, my wife's bike's quill stem bolt is recessed with the Allen key like yours, so ymmv based on your particular stem yeah. Glad the machine shop got your issue sorted!
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# ? May 6, 2024 09:02 |
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i think i install a new rear derailleur every 2-4 years, which is just enough time to completely forget about to do it each time. however, after reading the SRAM instructions five times and watching some commonwealth guy’s video three times, i converted my “gravel” bike from a compact double with an 11-26 cassette to a 40T to 11-36 1x10. all i need to do now is endlessly try to figure out the proper cable tension
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# ? May 21, 2024 01:21 |
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just posting to say i hate working on shimano hydraulic road levers. all that filling and draining with ten angle changes and then after finishing it turns out the bleed port leaks a touch each time the brakes are applied with the screw closed all the way time to order a new bleed screw and o-ring and hope that does the trick
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# ? May 21, 2024 02:40 |
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What's your favorite way to clean a chain? Ideally without removing it from the bike (chain guard and internal geared hub with coaster brake makes it a bit of a process to take the rear wheel off). I'm considering a Park Tool Cyclone thing, seems pretty convenient if a bit gimmicky? Are those wacky glove-like things with a lot of tentacles any good? I got it done today with a lot of degreaser, brushing and elbow grease but it was pretty tedious. By the way, thanks Invalido for that $50 bike maintenance stand recommendation, it works great with the addition of an adapter bar for bike racks on cars (thanks Sentient Data for that rec too). It's surprisingly sturdy, I thought it would feel sketchy with the bike dangling from it but nope, not at all.
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# ? May 24, 2024 21:43 |
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TheFluff posted:What's your favorite way to clean a chain? an old toothbrush
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# ? May 24, 2024 21:47 |
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Wire brush, rag and degreaser usually works. If you had to use lots of degreaser I'd guess you have way too much chain lube on the chain.
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# ? May 25, 2024 06:13 |
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For a single speed chain with a chain cover, it’s imo not worth trying to fully degrease and clean your chain on the bike. Single speed chains are chonky and last ages even with zero maintenance. Just wipe throughly with a micro fibre cloth, re-oil, then wipe thoroughly with a micro fibre cloth before riding.
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# ? May 25, 2024 09:26 |
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On my mtb I degrease the whole thing with a chain cleaning tool and re-lube sparingly.
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# ? May 25, 2024 10:46 |
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wooger posted:Single speed chains are chonky and last ages even with zero maintenance. Also glad you like the wrenching stand, Fluff!
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# ? May 25, 2024 14:40 |
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Thanks for the advice! I kinda brought this on myself by not doing any chain maintenance at all for probably like 9 months? It was thoroughly disgusting, packed with a thick and crunchy grease/dirt mix. Chain checker says it's still in spec though. I'll be a bit more gentle on it moving forward
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# ? May 25, 2024 17:12 |
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How thoroughly do I need to scrape the old Orange Seal out of my tyres? My TT bike has sat on a hook over the winter and both wheels now noticeably rotate to where the sealant has set when I pick the bike up. I took one of the beads off and there's still some fluid in there but lots of residue all the way around the rest of the tyre (enough that it's not immediately obvious where the heavy patch is).
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# ? May 27, 2024 11:31 |
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I’d just top up and forget about it. If you actually ride the bike enough the tyres will be done long before build up of dried sealant becomes an issue. Removing tyres to scrape sealant regularly is the exact equivalent of spending time manually closing all the ”open” apps in the multitasker on an iPhone to “save battery”. Needless busywork. At least for orange seal and the similar products I’ve used.
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# ? May 27, 2024 13:17 |
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I got the stupid idea in my head to go from 172.5 mm cranks to 165 mm cranks on my bike. The bike is a 2019 Cannondale caadx SE 105 (https://99spokes.com/bikes/cannondale/2019/caadx-105-se). According to the link above, the bottom bracket is a BB30, and the crankset has FSA rings (48/32) with Cannondale Si cranks. Looking at my bike, there seems to be a pin that permanently attaches the 48 ring to the drive side crank. Because of this, swapping on 165 mm cranks doesn't seem to be an option. Next, I looked for a replacement crankset. But, I can't seem to find any BB30 cranksets that have 165 mm cranks, though there do seem to be a fair amount of BB386EVO cranksets that both have 165 mm cranks and 48/32 rings. And, it seems like BB386EVO is compatible with BB30 bottom brackets, as long as you add spacers (that I think are exterior to the BB shell?). Disclaimer: bottom brackets and cranksets are still very confusing to me and I could easily have misunderstood some / all of what I read. Is getting a BB386EVO crankset a reasonable way to move to 165 mm cranks, or is there a better solution that I'm missing in favor of digging my very own well?
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# ? May 30, 2024 20:31 |
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The chainring is definitely not pinned to the crank arm. That little pin is part of the ring and is there maybe to keep the chain from getting jammed in there. cannondale SI cranks are pretty modular. There's a left arm, right arm, spindle, and then a spider of some sort that could just be a direct mount chainring(s), or in your case which just lets you bolt on regular rings. So, you could buy cannondale hollowgram 165mm crank arms, and then take your existing spindle, fixing bolts, spider, rings, etc, and put them on. However, cannondale wants an absurd amount for all their "hollowgram" house branded parts, and the only arms on the retail site are $265 each. Although at work I can look and see if there are cheaper versions available, or you could try to find some variety of used cannondale crankset with 165mm arms. Also you need special tools to remove the crank arms and spider. Anyway, 30mm spindle cranksets are still fairly common although shimano uses 24mm and new sram now uses "DUB" 29mm spindles. A good bike shop would be able to find some way to do that, preferably one that sells cannondales.
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# ? May 31, 2024 06:15 |
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# ? Jun 1, 2024 17:59 |
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jamal posted:The chainring is definitely not pinned to the crank arm. That little pin is part of the ring and is there maybe to keep the chain from getting jammed in there. Nice! The cranks being modular is the most convenient outcome. At the start I had assumed the cranks were swappable and bought the 165mm versions, but when I went to have them put on at REI they said it wasn't possible because of the crank being attached to the ring. I had gone to REI just because that's where I bought the bike, but now it seems like the correct option is to take it to the local bike shop that sells Cannondales and ask them to swap the cranks. For the sake of completeness, these are the replacement cranks that I had already picked up:
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# ? May 31, 2024 16:50 |