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Okay I'm working on my first project off a proper commercial pattern, and the...let's call them concise instructions are causing me some confusion. And there are some other complications / new things for me (I've never worked with batting). So, I have some questions that I'm sure are very basic but I'd love to make sure I'm doing it right before putting stitches down. Here are the instructions in relevant part. It's a shopping cart seat cover for baby, by the way. 1) When it tells me to "apply" the batting does that simply mean stitching the batting directly to the fabric? I would guess yes, but the fact that they specifically don't use the verb "stitch" confused me a bit. I have slight concerns about it catching on the feed dogs or the presser foot or something, but that's just in my imagination; I have no idea what's actually going to happen when I run the piece through. 2) I feel like this is something that could benefit from some quilting - if I do a basic diamond quilt with just the cotton and the batting, would that...work? I assume if the answer to 1 is yes, then the answer to this is also yes, but I'd like to make sure. I'd have to do this before the "to form corners of seat" in step 1, right? Otherwise I'd have a boxy shape that I can't imagine running through my machine properly. 3) There are stitching lines on the pattern to make the opening. How do I mark these on the fabric? Even if I had a tracing wheel (I don't, but could run up to my local quilting shop to get one, obviously), wouldn't that only transfer to one layer of fabric? Or would it mark through the folded fabric? I've never used one before. Relatedly, if I don't have a tracing wheel, is there a way to transfer that that's non-destructive to the pattern? My tentative plan is just to measure and mark with chalk, which shouldn't be too bad; it's just a rectangle, and it doesn't need to be super precise anyway. But I'm curious if there's a "proper" way to go about this. Boxman fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Apr 4, 2024 |
# ? Apr 4, 2024 23:42 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 08:02 |
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Boxman posted:Okay I'm working on my first project off a proper commercial pattern, and the...let's call them concise instructions are causing me some confusion. And there are some other complications / new things for me (I've never worked with batting). So, I have some questions that I'm sure are very basic but I'd love to make sure I'm doing it right before putting stitches down. Here are the instructions in relevant part. It's a shopping cart seat cover for baby, by the way. There's a thing called "fusible fleece" that they may think you'll use, and if the batting doesn't get sandwiched in between two pieces of fabric they probably assumed you're using that. To "apply" batting I'd probably make a sandwich of the outer fabric, the batting, and inner fabric, then baste it in place with safety pins, like a quilt. That brings us to... quote:
Yeah, some diamond pattern quilting would look great here, and you'd do with with the pieces flat/not sewn into a 3D shape. quote:
It would only get the top layer, yeah. You could use a butter knife to press it into the fabric and depending on the fabric it might or might not transfer well to the first layer, or poke some holes along the line periodically and then dot a water soluble marker or pounce some chalk in the holes. I'd probably just measure and use a ruler to add it to the fabric. What's the pattern company? Is it Green Pepper?
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# ? Apr 4, 2024 23:57 |
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It's actually a Simplicity pattern. Old, though - I got it from my local sewing room, which operates as a non-profit. Someone donated this thing. effika posted:There's a thing called "fusible fleece" that they may think you'll use, and if the batting doesn't get sandwiched in between two pieces of fabric they probably assumed you're using that. Hm. Well, the pattern just calls for "batting," and it only had me cut two of the seat pieces. One of which has the batting "applied" to it, and the other gets sewn to that in step 2 before being turned. If i just sew it all together, I'd have raw edges everywhere, right? The turning is a necessary step. Maybe I'll just go and buy a yard of fusible fleece lol. but wait, wouldn't that have the same problem, since I'd need to stitch it without a layer of cotton to do the quilting/making it 3D? EDIT: Thank you for your help, by the way. Let me know if more pictures of anything would help.
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# ? Apr 5, 2024 01:08 |
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Boxman posted:It's actually a Simplicity pattern. Old, though - I got it from my local sewing room, which operates as a non-profit. Someone donated this thing. And it has a liner, good. That should work. You can add some quilting, and I'd recommend it. Oh hey, the images all loaded for me now. The light diamonds hashed there are after they've "applied" the batting. What I think is going on is that you'll have two layers that get sewn inside-out and then the whole thing is inverted through the seat opening (See the end of step 2). That should hide most of your raw edges, and the ones that don't I suspect get covered up by the poofy bit later.
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# ? Apr 5, 2024 12:10 |
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I'm thinking of making a pair of pajama shorts, so taking the pajama pant pattern I already used and cutting it off short. What's the right method to get the pattern to still work? My first thought was just marking a line parallel to the hem, but higher. However, when I measured the pattern at that line, the inseam doesn't match between the front and back panels - they have a different slope so the measurements don't match quite right. So I'll obviously have to just measure some amount from the inseam and outseam. Is there a way to make sure what I end up with is parallel to the ground?
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# ? Apr 14, 2024 02:46 |
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Eeyo posted:I'm thinking of making a pair of pajama shorts, so taking the pajama pant pattern I already used and cutting it off short. You'd straighten out the inseam/outseam lines for like 1" at the bottom so that the lines are straight and easier to hem. It's hard to judge where everything will line up sometimes, so here's what I did the last time I did this: Figure out what you want the inseam to be, then draw straight down from that point 3" for both the back and front pieces' inseams and outseams. You'll have plenty of room to even out any uneven front/backs and still do a good hem. Before hemming, take notes on what you needed to cut off to even it out. You can then add notes to the pattern for next time, measuring where things actually wound up on each pattern piece from a known point (waist, crotch point, etc). Comedy option: Make pants, have someone help you draw around your leg at the point where you want the new hem, make your shorts, then transfer the information to the pattern pieces.
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# ? Apr 14, 2024 03:38 |
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I forgot to update the thread! I finished that seat cover: At the end of the day, I chickened out on quilting the thing - It felt like a bigger job than it probably was, and if something went wrong I didn't want the ability to blame it on adding extra steps to the instructions. Mistakes were made - you can see where I didn't use enough pins and caught some of the seat in the topstitching, which I had to rip out. Oops! I'm also not 100% sure I did it right. There's that raw edge that's visible that...doesn't feel right for a commercial pattern, and I had to modify the instructions to get the casing to be right side out when I actually use it. All that being said, I have made a functional thing, so I'm happy with it. Maybe what I'm proudest of is this: I couldn't quite imagine how turning it worked, and some of the instructions confused me on where to stitch, so I made this tiny mockup out of scraps and basting stitches. It took me all of 15 minutes and (other than the fact that I sewed the corners inside out) ended up being a great little representation of the finished product. Making a prototype version felt like a creative solution to the "what the gently caress am I doing here" problem, and I'm pleased I thought of it and was able to do it. EDIT: I also made one more tote bag to bring the kid's bottles into day care every day, where it has drawn complements. This makes me very proud. Boxman fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Apr 15, 2024 |
# ? Apr 15, 2024 12:39 |
Without seeing the instructions, yeah, that raw edge seems awfully weird, but you could probably sort that out with some bias tape.
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# ? Apr 15, 2024 13:30 |
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Boxman posted:I forgot to update the thread! I finished that seat cover: It came out useful, and looks good! Making the smaller version to try it out was a great idea.
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# ? Apr 15, 2024 17:08 |
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Yeah using your scraps to test out construction and machine settings is a good idea. I've been doing that to tweak the foot pressure and tension and that sort of stuff.
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# ? Apr 15, 2024 19:43 |
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I've been doing more MYOG gear sorts of things lately and really really hating my Husqvarna viking. Feeds badly, has too many things I don't use, too many things get caught in silly places. Just generally annoying with thick or slippery/sticky coated fabrics. It's also never really sewn great in general regardless of tension settings. I decided I don't care too much about zig zag and related stitches. I don't have the space for an old used industrial walking foot (though that's what I want), so I was torn between a Sailrite machine or a Juki TL. Welp, Jesus christ it's amazing. Not having wide feet and a giant hole in the plate is amazing. Eventually I want to get into some garment stuff, and I think I'll just pick up a ~$250 serger and ignore the existence of zig zag sewing machines forevermore. I'm sure I'll feel the limitations eventually, but I don't ever want to straight stitch on anything other than a straight stitch machine. Also auto up/down and thread cutting is amazing. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Apr 17, 2024 |
# ? Apr 17, 2024 21:41 |
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Juki also makes a stand-alone buttonhole machine now, so add that to a serger you are mostly set up for garments, too! Enjoy that Juki. It's on my list of possible next machines when my current one bites it. I'm not entirely blaming my tools, but I will say this quilt I'm working on would have a more even stitch length and fewer accidental wanderings if I wasn't trying to shove it through the 6" harp of my current machine!
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# ? Apr 17, 2024 21:59 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Jesus christ it's amazing. Not having wide feet and a giant hole in the plate is amazing. Eventually I want to get into some garment stuff, and I think I'll just pick up a ~$250 serger and ignore the existence of zig zag sewing machines forevermore. I'm sure I'll feel the limitations eventually, but I don't ever want to straight stitch on anything other than a straight stitch machine.
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# ? Apr 17, 2024 22:04 |
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Not a $250 one but the manual threading juki I got (mo 654de) isn't so bad. The lower and upper loopers were pretty easy, the needles were harder for me. It's so fuckin' smooth and quiet compared to my wife's sewing machine. It's just such a pleasure to feed in a seam and get out a beautiful soft overlocked seam. I haven't had to mess with the tension yet though. Speaking of tension, should I change the tension/other settings if I'm just doing one layer of fabric? The seams I do on it feel great and are actually nice and stretchy. I serged around a hem before doing a single-fold hem and the serged stitch was very not stretchy.
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# ? Apr 18, 2024 03:35 |
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I'm doing a scrap fabric quilt block swap, and here are the ones I made to send out.
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# ? Apr 20, 2024 03:29 |
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I love your use of color.
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# ? Apr 20, 2024 03:35 |
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Those have a very cheerful chaos vibe.
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# ? Apr 20, 2024 06:11 |
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HelloIAmYourHeart posted:I'm doing a scrap fabric quilt block swap, and here are the ones I made to send out. It's like looking through shattered crystals! Really cool.
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# ? Apr 20, 2024 17:03 |
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I finished sewing a duck plush last week and it came out ok. Well it is crooked and wonky but not bad for me. Velour is an absolutely horrible material to work with but it was what was available and it does have that soft comfy feeling a plush needs.
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# ? Apr 23, 2024 12:06 |
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This isn't about making clothes but I'm betting there's people ITT who are in the know about dying corduroy. A web search got me an awful lot of "articles" that I'm about 100% certain were created by so-called AI so I'm not tempted to trust them. I have an old white corduroy overcoat and I'd like it to not be white. I figure it's mostly cotton - apart from the sleeve lining which is some sort of synthetic poo poo (I've washed it as if it were cotton and it's fine, apart from the labels that are too faded to make out anymore). Any hints, tips, cautions? I've never intentionally dyed anything, but I do have a lot of pink T-shirts that didn't used to be pink. If I ruin it it's no big deal. Doesn't have sentimental value but it is warm. Also since it's already Spring it doesn't have to be a quick process - I've got until next Autumn.
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 21:35 |
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Oh yeah if you just want it one colour you can get a pack of Rit or Dylon and follow the instructions. If it turns out to not be 100% cotton, get a pack of dye that works on synthetics and try again. Tips? Rinse well and wash alone or with like colours the first wash or so. It should be pretty straightforward, just mix up, immerse the jacket for however long, rinse and wash. Oh yeah you may need two or three packs. Probably a good idea to weigh the jacket. The packs will say how many you need but fabric weight. Lead out in cuffs fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Apr 28, 2024 |
# ? Apr 28, 2024 21:52 |
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I really like Jacquard dyes. They make packets called iDye that are really easy to use. If it's a synthetic blend, iDye Poly is the dye you'll need to use. Even if the fabric itself is cotton, the thread is probably synthetic. Presoak the fabric and then wring it out as best you can. You'll want it damp but not soaking. When you wash it the first couple times, you might want to use a dye catcher. Definitely don't wash it with anything nice. I usually throw my dyed items in with some old towels.
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 12:54 |
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HelloIAmYourHeart posted:I really like Jacquard dyes. They make packets called iDye that are really easy to use. If it's a synthetic blend, iDye Poly is the dye you'll need to use. Even if the fabric itself is cotton, the thread is probably synthetic. My old towels are nice (But thanks. Hadn't thought about the thread. I guess light stiching wouldn't look too bad.)
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 13:01 |
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Picked up a 1958 era 201 for an absolute steal Just getting my head around it but I have some fun ideas for my wardrobe, odd jobs for my circle and or xmas presents
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# ? May 7, 2024 15:54 |
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Readers of the Schadenfruede thread may recall my quilting issue from last monthHelloIAmYourHeart posted:Failure: I'm doing an online quilt block swap (make 15 squares, send out 14, get 14 back) and I put my address in wrong, so all my blocks got sent to someone else. Well I got all my squares and finished the quilt top.
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# ? May 20, 2024 02:22 |
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HelloIAmYourHeart posted:Readers of the Schadenfruede thread may recall my quilting issue from last month It worked out in the end, at least! And the top is bright and fun, which must have been enjoyable to finally assemble.
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# ? May 20, 2024 03:42 |
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It's amazing how quickly things come together when you stop working with one inch scraps to one foot squares.
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# ? May 20, 2024 04:07 |
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Does anyone where I can get a set of black shank buttons, roughly 15/16 inch x 5/8 inch? Exact shape and style don't matter that much.
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 00:50 |
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Beef Eater posted:Does anyone where I can get a set of black shank buttons, roughly 15/16 inch x 5/8 inch? Exact shape and style don't matter that much. See if Benno's has something that will work: Search results for "black shank" on Benno's Buttons If I need something fairly standard but in an odd size, they usually have it.
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 01:09 |
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Oh hey, finished off my little house skirt thing It's fairly amateur made , but it's nice to have on in winter
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 01:25 |
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Jestery posted:Oh hey, finished off my little house skirt thing That split came out really well!
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 01:42 |
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Yeah I'm really happy with it, lovely for smarch weather I'm weirdly pragmatic about my clothing and don't like being constrained. I can ride a bike with this on and it's not an issue so I'm chuffed I also really like , visually, how it codes as pants on a split
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 03:31 |
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effika posted:See if Benno's has something that will work: Unfortunately I need something that's roughly rectangular (or oval) and those are all circular.
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 08:56 |
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Beef Eater posted:Unfortunately I need something that's roughly rectangular (or oval) and those are all circular. For some reason I interpreted the second measurement as depth, not width! Looks like etsy has some (I get a lot of buttons from etsy), as does Trim Fabric, which I've never used.
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 13:21 |
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Continuing my streak of asking questions about the...let's call it "terse" instructions in commercial patterns. what on earth is happening in steps 19 and 20? Why is it showing a stitch in the diagram for step 19 when its specific about not stitching the right shoulder on step 17? What on earth is going on in step 20 with the extra loop of fabric on top? The one clue I've had is from an amazon review of the pattern.... Which at least makes me think this isn't just me, haha. I have an idea of what to do but I'm not at all sure its right. (It's a romper for an infant, by the way). I did have a really successful sewing job since last I checked in, but it's probably more appropriate for the cosplay thread. Also, I'm just generally reluctant to show it off around these parts, haha.
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 19:56 |
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I'd join the shoulder seams right sides together but keep the facing out of it, doing those separately (that may be the twisted bits in the diagram, since it would be right sides together as well). Then unfold it all and put the facing over the shoulder seams, and add a few stitches on the side seams to hold the facing in place. Maybe baste it or safety pin it to see if something like that would work? It loos sort of similar to facing instructions I've seem before, but also like it's missing some words.
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 20:32 |
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Yeah I can understand what it's asking you to do, but why or whether it's a good idea is another matter entirely. Load-bearing slip-stitched facing... you've found Groverpattern.
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 21:06 |
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lol lmao thank you for the affirmation I'm not losing my mind / too stupid to read this pattern. So, I guess the follow up question is, is there a better/easier way to do this that i'm not thinking of or is the construction of the garment such that I have to do...whatever is going on here. Boxman fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Jun 5, 2024 |
# ? Jun 5, 2024 22:55 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 08:02 |
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Boxman posted:lol lmao thank you for the affirmation I'm not losing my mind / too stupid to read this pattern. I think this tutorial is close to what you're doing in the pattern (if it were written better): https://www.thelaststitch.com/sew-facing-lining-sleeveless-dress/ This tutorial walks you through how to do an all-in-one facing burrito-style. (Once you've done it, the technique makes sense.) I find it easier than the way they're having you do it in your pattern: https://www.seamwork.com/articles/sewing-all-in-one-facings If you have sleeves to add or want to bind the edges/use bands instead for the armscyes you can do that instead, just don't sew those areas together.
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 01:17 |