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Qwijib0 posted:The post size was required to meet ~100mph wind resistance as it is classified as a "permanent structure" for the permit I needed. I am not sure on the thickness, it sounds pretty hollow when tapped, so probably not super thick (helpful, I know). 100 or 1000
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May 1, 2024 19:58
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If that gets loaded up with snow you're also going to appreciate those supports
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May 1, 2024 20:01
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Hadlock posted:100 or 1000 No but like for real, physicist here. when you put a decent static tension into a sail like that, it is pretty nuts how much even small deflections can load the lines
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May 1, 2024 20:03
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Yeah a flagpole should have a foundation ~1/3 as deep as it is tall. I'd expect beefy posts and similarly significant foundations.
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May 1, 2024 20:43
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Hmm, an engineer and 6 inch posts would put this project out of my budget, unfortunately... I may have to come up with a different solution.
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May 1, 2024 21:07
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Does anyone have reccomendations for a basement egress window? looking at 48x48 sliders or 30x48 crank. not looking to break the bank, more curious if something like Jeld-wen or Pella at a big box store will get the job done
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May 1, 2024 21:56
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Our roof is old, so we're collecting quotes for replacement lol I want to die
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May 1, 2024 22:20
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Potato Salad posted:Sunk & concreted into holes how deep, may I ask? ~2' diameter hole, 4 feet deep.
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May 1, 2024 23:23
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Homeownership.jpg: Yes, the windshield is completely shattered/spidered up. No, I can't tell how/why. It's been sitting outside of the barn right there unused for at least 3 days. I have no idea when that happened. Guess I'm about to find out what my insurance deductible is on that thing.
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May 2, 2024 00:48
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SpartanIvy posted:If that gets loaded up with snow you're also going to appreciate those supports What's this "snow" you speak of?
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May 2, 2024 01:02
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Motronic posted:Homeownership.jpg: Sweet tractor and cool if annoying mystery. Any chance of a BB gun ricochet or similar? Has it been super hot and parked in the sun follow by rain (large temp diff across glass layers)?
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May 2, 2024 01:40
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Motronic posted:Homeownership.jpg: Sounds like it had a chip somewhere & temperature changes did their thing. Or a wayward bird hit is in juuuust the right (wrong) spot
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May 2, 2024 01:46
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CarForumPoster posted:Sweet tractor and cool if annoying mystery. Any chance of a BB gun ricochet or similar? Has it been super hot and parked in the sun follow by rain (large temp diff across glass layers)? Definitely not any possibility of BB ricochet, it's just too far away from anyone/anything else that could cause that. It's been in the 80s which is a lot wamer than it has been, but nothing out of the ordinary. PainterofCrap posted:Sounds like it had a chip somewhere & temperature changes did their thing. I assume it has to be something like that. It looks like it comes from one spot on the side radiating out:  ...but there is nothing of consequence there that I can see. 
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May 2, 2024 02:03
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Motronic posted:Definitely not any possibility of BB ricochet, it's just too far away from anyone/anything else that could cause that. It's been in the 80s which is a lot wamer than it has been, but nothing out of the ordinary. Yea that looks like a crack that was initiated by something in that corner so prob not a BB. Thermal expansion into a sharp bit of weld,the glass “buckling”, or some existing defect in the glass near that edge that had enough cycles to propagate.
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May 2, 2024 02:11
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Motronic posted:Definitely not any possibility of BB ricochet, it's just too far away from anyone/anything else that could cause that. It's been in the 80s which is a lot wamer than it has been, but nothing out of the ordinary. Oh, that's right at the left edge, and radiating from a single point. Guessing that either the edge was chipped at some point between manufacture and install, or something hard got wedged in there.
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May 2, 2024 03:23
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PainterofCrap posted:Oh, that's right at the left edge, and radiating from a single point. Yeah, could be interesting to see if there's any kind of defect on the frame when it's replaced. I have no idea how this shakes out - I'm not going to move it and if the insurance company(KTAC)/Kubota dealership that will fix it wants to that's on them. I'd prefer the work gets done here. It shouldn't be hard - a single wiper and a piece of glued in glass. (this tractor is worth more than my car lol) e: okay, this may not be something worth claiming when I can clean it up in a few hours and glue in a $362 part with a $40 tube of window weld. 
Motronic fucked around with this message at 03:35 on May 2, 2024 |
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May 2, 2024 03:26
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Motronic posted:Definitely not any possibility of BB ricochet, it's just too far away from anyone/anything else that could cause that. It's been in the 80s which is a lot wamer than it has been, but nothing out of the ordinary. Looks like the centerpoint of the crack pattern is on the edge of the window, with black adhesive underneath. There was probably a crack or other defect there that was impossible to see against that black backdrop. You’re almost certainly not going to be able to distinguish which defect/crack was truly the first one now. It doesn’t take much strain to pop cracks further in tempered glass, once there’s a sufficiently-sized defect like a 1/2 inch chip or crack. Fun fact: initial passenger plane window designs had square corners. They cracked at altitude just due to the stress concentration factor from a hard corner and the pressure differential between the cabin and atmosphere. Obviously now, the windows have rounded corners, which don’t cause the same local stress concentrations. I recently had to replace my car windshield. Took a rock on the highway, had about 2 more hours to go on my trip and the crack went from the size of a US quarter to 18+ inches just from typical driving vibrations. $500 deductible but at least it was covered by insurance: the re-calibration for the car’s sensor system was, like, $1,200 alone.
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May 2, 2024 13:48
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That was actually an urban legend. The windows had rounded corners but were supposed to be riveted and glued to spread load at the edges. During manufacturing glue was omitted and shavings at the riveting points led to accelerated metal fatigue. The windows were fine but the metal was not.
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May 2, 2024 13:55
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Because everyone cares I have house pipe update. I left for my trip last Thursday and had the water off till I got back Monday night. The plumber came out on Tuesday morning and it seems like there's another slab leak someplace. Possibly between the main and the hot water heater but he wasn't sure and there's no real point in doing a leak detection at this point. I'm going to get the whole house re piped with PEX on Saturday its a one day job and they are going to patch all the holes (no paint) and its going to run me $9500 out the door. I've spoken with a few people and its a fair price overall. A girl at work got hers done for $7500 but this was pre covid and at this point I just want my water back on. Luckily I started saving up for this last year when I had the first two leaks so I knew it was coming but I had hoped I'd get a little more time out of it lol. I'm also going to have him increase the pressure a bit since he had lowered it before to help with possible issues. Oh well!
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May 3, 2024 00:21
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I get to go spendy at harbor freight and homeless despot to make a cooper pipe shop air system, I’m so excited.
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May 3, 2024 13:17
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CarForumPoster posted:I get to go spendy at harbor freight and homeless despot to make a cooper pipe shop air system, I’m so excited. Which unit are you looking at, and what size copper pipe
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May 3, 2024 13:58
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Hadlock posted:Which unit are you looking at, and what size copper pipe I bought a 2 hp 10 gal cali air tools quiet compressor over a week ago that’s delayed in shipping. Today I’m going to go buy fittings and pipe to rig everything up. Going to do 1/2” lines as that is more than I’ll need and Home Depot stocks bags of fittings for cheap. I’m planning to add a post-compressor, pre tank heat exchanger and vapor trap as well, once I figure out where I want everything. This is for my 15 HP garage CNC mill/mist coolant and general car and house projects. I’ve got a pancake compressor for now and a 20 gal tank from an old compressor that I recently sheared a fitting off of causing the quick connect to bust my lip open. Don’t work on pressurized systems, friends. Don’t be like me. CarForumPoster posted:A story in two parts. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 14:09 on May 3, 2024 |
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May 3, 2024 14:06
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This might be a bit of a doozy but maybe some of you will enjoy it. So my wife and I just bought our first house (and received great advice from the home buying thread). We’re withholding an amount from the seller’s proceeds because at the last minute (literally closing day) we found a feint ceiling stain running across one of the rooms. It is patchy, yellowish color in a straight line across the ceiling, and follows a seam of obvious patch work that was done previously. It doesn’t really look like water. You might not even notice it if you weren’t looking. This was originally thought to be a sloppy paint job over uncured mud, and that may still be true, but the issues in this room have since evolved and I am trying to piece together an explanation so I know what to ask for. Can’t get into the attic of this room without removing insulation and possibly some duct work. Sellers are flippers and performed all work with permits. The roof over this room is new, but we noted some deficiencies including old roofing material left in the gutters and shingles and underlayment that weren’t properly adhered to the edge of the roof at the drip edge. These were characterized as yellow flag issues that needed to be address but weren’t obvious causes of leakage. Problems: -sellers removed a window from the room. The area in the wall where I believe the window used to be is getting a 60+% moisture reading from a basic pinless reader. The areas above and below the former window are dry -there is a 4x4ish patch of ceiling that is also reading over 60% moist. -there is another moist area on the other exterior facing wall where a new window was installed, which starts at the top of the window framing and extends towards the ceiling. The framing below the window is dry. -all of this is isolated within a single room. Nothing is visibly “oh poo poo that’s a leak” wet. It’s all coming from the moisture meter. Theories: 1) It rained during the renovation and no one gave a poo poo. 2) Gutter debris led to a backup of water onto the roof. 3) The new roof is deficient in some new and exciting way. 4) This is all pre-existing that went undetected and won’t happen again once the drywall is replaced or dried out (but this doesn’t explain why some of the damp areas are concentrated around where new work was done). Seems like no matter the cause, we need to be replacing the affected drywall and continue monitoring. The roof is under warranty. I am very sad. Please help.
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May 3, 2024 18:09
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Soldered my first joints ever. It’s fairly messy and the brass bung is prob too loose to actually seal all the way around but I may get lucky and this is the bottom half of an air:air heat exchanger for my air compressor.
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May 3, 2024 23:05
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jjack229 posted:Found out that I have a bunch of wasps or hornets in the siding under our bay windows: Finally looking at re-staining the wood siding on the house that we bought last year. The house is a split-level and about 25 ft x 40 ft. The inspector had flagged that the house needed stain and seller responded that it had been stained in 2016 or 2017. I had originally planned to stain it myself, but decided to get a couple quotes just to see what my options are. The first person came out on Tuesday. They options they recommended were either semi-transparent stain (with a cleaning process of apply stain and sealer remover to siding, hand scrub with a plastic brush, pressure wash residue off, apply revive (neutralizer) followed by a light rinse) or solid stain (with a cleaning process of just pressure wash to remove dirt and dust). He said that either were good options, but thought that solid might be better given the uneven discoloration of the wood (that would show through semi-transparent) and the cost savings of solid. They said that a semi-transparent would need to be re-applied in 3 to 6 years and a solid in 8 years. The quote was $7300 for the semi-transparent and $5000 for the solid (also includes some touchup on the skirting for the deck). They recommended Cabot for semi-transparent and Woodscape for the solid. The second person came out today. They only recommended going with a semi-solid stain (with a cleaning process of power washing with a cleaning solution). They explicitly did not recommend solid stain. They said it was basically like paint and would flake off on this wood siding. They said a semi-solid would need to be re-applied in 8 years. (They also did not believe that house was restained in 2016, they guessed it would be closer to 20 years ago based on appearance). Still waiting for the quote to come back with pricing. They recommended Cabot for the semi-solid. Does anyone have any thoughts or recommendations on staining wood siding? What's the level of cleaning that should be done on the wood and are their concerns with using solid stain? Prior to this I didn't not know all the different types of stain, but had assumed I would go with something that still showed the wood color. That being said, having thought about, I think I would be fine with the solid stain look. The garage is also wood siding with a solid stain and I think it looks fine. From an aesthetics standpoint, my only hesitation is that if we go solid stain there is no going back.
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May 4, 2024 03:27
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I'd go transparent. I have solid stain on the deck & it's not a high performing product. Also you may as well paint it if you do a solid stain.
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May 4, 2024 04:21
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I know nothing about natural gas lines etc We have a split level on a hill, our kitchen (with gas stove) is on the middle level, and then the kitchen opens up to a deck that gives us some level outdoor living space. From the stove the gas line runs under the kitchen crawlspace to the HVAC in the garage Below the deck is open and the side of the house (crawlspace) is exposed. We're kind of thinking about getting one of those propane fire pits to put on the deck, but do natural gas. Is it possible to, like, T off the natural gas line that runs under the kitchen, then drill a hole in the wall of the crawl space, and mount the gas line under the deck? And then feed the fire pit? Or is this a giant permitting nightmare to run a semi exposed* gas line under a wooden deck *Actually the deck is blocked off underneath, but ideally we wouldn't have to do any trenching
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May 4, 2024 06:10
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Hadlock posted:I know nothing about natural gas lines etc You can have a plumber come out and do what you want, yeah. They may even have a mini excavator to make burying the line super easy. Permitting? I have no idea what that is 
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May 4, 2024 12:58
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It’s not unimaginable to do what you’re describing but it seems like a loan in the rear end vs just having a bottle of propane
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May 4, 2024 13:35
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Lightswitch chat prev was helpful with going Eaton. What about outlets? I'm going to upgrade a couple to usb, is there a particular brand here that is better?
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May 4, 2024 15:41
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Upgrade posted:It’s not unimaginable to do what you’re describing but it seems like a loan in the rear end vs just having a bottle of propane Lol still pretty accurate
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May 4, 2024 16:34
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Upgrade posted:It’s not unimaginable to do what you’re describing but it seems like a loan in the rear end vs just having a bottle of propane I'm going to disagree. You deal with the NG install once. You'll be dealing with an ugly propane bottle after every X amount of usage. Switching from a propane grill to an NG one has made me use it 5x more. Assuming you have the pressure I think they should be able to T it off. I would get a plumber for this though. They should be able to advise you on the permitting required in your area and possibly better ways to accomplish what you are wanting.
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May 4, 2024 17:18
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dalstrs posted:I'm going to disagree. You deal with the NG install once. You'll be dealing with an ugly propane bottle after every X amount of usage. Switching from a propane grill to an NG one has made me use it 5x more. As someone who has this setup I completely agree.
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May 4, 2024 17:23
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Yeah my buddy's dad had a ng line run to their grill on the patio they just.... Grilled everything outdoors, unless it was raining. They used it every day. Not having to gently caress around with tanks is a major quality of life improvement. He would slow cook brisket on the grill overnight even. Also with no tank to hide, the options for more aesthetically pleasing fire pits open way up. And yeah we'd probably use it an hour or two a night, it goes from 75-80 at sunset to 60F pretty much immediately as soon as the light disappears and often into the 50s particularly in the winter. As I understand it the tank is only good for maybe 8 hours at full tilt so that's two tanks a week I guess the main thing I was concerned about/thing that makes this way cheaper is we could run the line out the side of the house and hang it directly from our wooden deck, negating the need for a trench. In my mind wooden decks are temporary structures so I'm not sure if you can mount NG to it. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 17:47 on May 4, 2024 |
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May 4, 2024 17:44
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A NG grill line would be so nice. I hate when the tank gets low and I’m guesstimating if it can power another grilling session. My Home Depot is running a buy 2 get 2 on air filters, I’d assume it’s nationwide. Solid savings.
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May 4, 2024 18:19
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All structures are temporary structures
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May 4, 2024 18:44
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dalstrs posted:I'm going to disagree. You deal with the NG install once. You'll be dealing with an ugly propane bottle after every X amount of usage. Switching from a propane grill to an NG one has made me use it 5x more. Wish I had done this when we bought our grill years ago. There's even a capped off stub from an old pool heater 10' away! We use our grill 3-7 times a week year round so it just means lots of propane refill trips
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May 4, 2024 19:12
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QuarkJets posted:All structures are temporary structures tempting thread title
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May 4, 2024 19:24
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I built a 300K BTU NG fire pit. It's 100% worth it. I also use the outlet to power my backup generator. So I don't have to worry about stocking gas tanks. I do have a 100lb propane tank in the shed though as an auxiliary fuel for the generator, in case electricity and gas both go down in an emergency. You cannot match the volume and quality of an NG fire pit with propane unless you put in a giant tank. The small propane powered fire pits you can find in stores are purely decorative, they barely put out any heat. My fire pit with the ceramic logs on top, can keep you warm in the coldest of winters. Once those logs get heated up, you can sit 5 feet away and feel the heat on you. It rules.  It's currently made of stacked cinder blocks and bricks because I don't want to mortar anything together until we have the patio redone. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 19:38 on May 4, 2024 |
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May 4, 2024 19:35
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I need to replace a couple honeycomb/cellular blinds. There are a number of cell sizes available, but I can't figure out which dimension the websites are referring to. They range from 3/8" to 1-1/4". Does the "size" refer to the red dimension or the blue? I'm measuring about 1-1/4" for the red and 3/8" for the blue
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May 4, 2024 22:13
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