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Attach a wedge-shaped piece of wood to the bottom of the door, assuming your landlord will let you.
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Jun 10, 2011 20:41
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Rolled up towel works in a pinch There' some pretty large commercial ones http://www.amazon.com/2-Pk-of-Draft-Dodgers/dp/B0044XDTOI
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Jun 10, 2011 22:54
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Just want to say thanks for all the suggestions and advice on the portable monitor, that was a great response. I think for safety's sake I'm going to end up with an extension cord and just have to deal with being mostly stationary.
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Jun 11, 2011 00:44
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The SARS Volta posted:I'm moving into a new apartment tomorrow; it's a newly renovated unit in a 100-year-old mansion. Can you ask for a new door? I would think that's a security risk. Otherwise maybe a really thick piece of adhesive-backed foam rubber weather stripping?
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Jun 11, 2011 02:55
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The SARS Volta posted:I'm moving into a new apartment tomorrow; it's a newly renovated unit in a 100-year-old mansion. If that common area is indoors and climate controlled, then there is no real problem. If it bothers you that much, then you could probably get a door sweep for it.
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Jun 11, 2011 03:46
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I just moved and I've gotten totally fed up with furniture shopping. A friend suggested that platform beds are relatively easy to build. I've been googling for plans/instructions and the best I'm coming up with is 6 step EHow articles with no pictures or details. Can anyone point me to a plan or guide that I can follow without tons of experience to building a simple, Queen-sized, platform bed?
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Jun 11, 2011 20:55
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JD Brickmeister posted:Almost always it is the landlord, unless it says differently in the lease, as landlords are usually responsible for maintenance and repairs, etc. Cool! I know our lease specifically states it.
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Jun 11, 2011 21:46
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Avasculous posted:Can anyone point me to a plan or guide that I can follow without tons of experience to building a simple, Queen-sized, platform bed? http://www.myfamilylovesit.com/blog/index.php/2008/01/21/how-to-build-a-platform-bed/
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Jun 11, 2011 22:44
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The SARS Volta posted:They sell these artsy-crafty draft stoppers that look like a long cloth tube with a space in the middle that you can hang on the doorknob. When you leave, you hang it up, when you come home you throw it down and kick it in place.
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Jun 12, 2011 02:42
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JD Brickmeister posted:They sell these artsy-crafty draft stoppers that look like a long cloth tube with a space in the middle that you can hang on the doorknob. When you leave, you hang it up, when you come home you throw it down and kick it in place.
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Jun 12, 2011 02:45
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grover posted:I think he'd be better off with a permanently mounted sweep. They make them specifically for this, so you can fine-tune the bottom of the door. Yeah, something permanent and with a fair amount of insulation value. A gap that big is really going to wreak havoc on heating/cooling efforts, even if it does open into a common hall (unless the hall is heated and cooled very well).
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Jun 12, 2011 03:34
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It does enter into a common hallway with a regulated temperature, yeah. I bought a cloth draft stopper with styrofoam inserts, and used double-sided tape to attach it to the bottom side of the door. Not a perfect solution, but it'll help. Thanks guys.
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Jun 12, 2011 22:03
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Avasculous posted:I just moved and I've gotten totally fed up with furniture shopping. Check out Instructables.com. There are lots of plans for furniture and more than a few plans for platform beds.
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Jun 13, 2011 04:49
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I removed the popcorn on all the ceilings in our home, and recently a nice fellow refinished all of them for me so they are nice and flat for painting. The edges are all perfect now, and I am very excited to begin priming/painting! One little hiccup is all the dust. The ceilings are covered in very fine drywall dust. Standing on a ladder all day wiping them with a damp cloth is not enticing, and in the end, it just isn't very effective. Google has suggested I use a shop-vac, which is a grand idea, but no one I know has one, and none of the local hardware stores rent them. Is there a better way to do this? I was thinking about trying a floor mop with a sponge head, but I have a feeling that will just smear the dust around more than anything else. If I do have to buy a shop-vac, what exactly do I need? They seem to come in a million different sizes and powers and models. Here is what I have found: Drywall bags: http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Vac-906-71-19-Drywall-Collection-Filter/dp/B00427WNOS/ Shop-vac?: http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Vac-9650600-3-0-Peak-Vacuum-6-Gallon/dp/B00315CWXE/ That is the cheapest one I can find that is at least 5 gallons, since they don't make the drywall bags smaller than that.
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Jun 15, 2011 20:31
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Associate Christ
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It's not the bags that are the problem, rather it's the the filter. Better filters with smaller holes are needed to capture drywall dust, otherwise the dust will just blow right through the filter and back into the room. Typically the filters that come with wet/dry vacs have holes too large to catch drywall dust. You'll probably need to wash out and dry that filter if you're doing a whole house a few times.
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Jun 15, 2011 21:51
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kid sinister posted:It's not the bags that are the problem, rather it's the the filter. Better filters with smaller holes are needed to capture drywall dust, otherwise the dust will just blow right through the filter and back into the room. Typically the filters that come with wet/dry vacs have holes too large to catch drywall dust. So I would need this: http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Vac-9035000-Ultra-Web-Cartridge-Filter/dp/B000FDVZZG/ ? That seems to only work with the larger shop vac models. At this point I am reconsidering my wet sponge mop idea. . .
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Jun 15, 2011 22:45
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Kaluza-Klein posted:So I would need this: Yeah, something like that. FYI, the mop idea won't work very well. That drywall dust is dried joint compound. When it gets wet again, it just spreads around. You also run the risk of screwing up the finish by getting it wet again.
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Jun 15, 2011 23:49
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Don't abandon the shop-vac yet! Get one that both sucks (from one side) & blows (out the other), and get the 2" hose (they come with a 1-1/4" hose). On the blow side, hook up the 2" hose & run it out a window to vent all of the dust out. I do this with great success when I vacuum out the woodstove during the winter.
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Jun 16, 2011 03:02
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I have a Ridgid vac with the stock filter that handles drywall dust alright. Doesn't blow out the exhaust but the filter will get clogged fairly quickly. Don't have to wash it though, just take it off, rap it against a trash can a bunch of times and its then ready to go again.
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Jun 16, 2011 21:20
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Any good websites for purchasing stained glass supplies?
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Jun 18, 2011 04:55
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Tell me where I can find a standard-sized wall plate with two electrical outlets and an ethernet jack. There's certainly enough room inside a standard box, and on the face; why can't I find anyone making them? 
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Jun 18, 2011 22:55
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Splizwarf posted:Tell me where I can find a standard-sized wall plate with two electrical outlets and an ethernet jack. There's certainly enough room inside a standard box, and on the face; why can't I find anyone making them? There really isn't, though. A good bit of the face plate covers wall rather than junction box, and there really is not room in a single gang junction box for a dual receptacle and an ethernet connector. If you want them next to one another you're going to have to settle for double gang, unless you can find a single power receptacle/ethernet combo (I couldn't find anything like that with a cursory search).
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Jun 18, 2011 23:22
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Splizwarf posted:Tell me where I can find a standard-sized wall plate with two electrical outlets and an ethernet jack. There's certainly enough room inside a standard box, and on the face; why can't I find anyone making them? Here  http://www.ethernetwallplatecoupon....B0012DMBGA.html
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Jun 18, 2011 23:24
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Splizwarf posted:Tell me where I can find a standard-sized wall plate with two electrical outlets and an ethernet jack. There's certainly enough room inside a standard box, and on the face; why can't I find anyone making them?
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Jun 19, 2011 00:11
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PainterofCrap posted:Here The thing is I have no idea what I'd do with the other 5 holes. I know, a weird complaint coming from a goon, but...
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Jun 19, 2011 03:46
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Splizwarf posted:The thing is I have no idea what I'd do with the other 5 holes. I know, a weird complaint coming from a goon, but... Just fill them up with blank keystone inserts. But Grover's right, that NEC code is also to help prevent 120V equipment causing interference over that low voltage wiring next to it in the same box. Your best bet would be keeping high and low voltage separate. For what it's worth, Arlington makes all kinds of old work boxes with high and low voltage separation for this kind of work. If you're loathe to use blank inserts, you could use a 2-gang faceplate with a Decora/GFCI hole for the ethernet side, then use one of these to cover that big Decora hole down to a single keystone jack. Feel free to search around, lots of companies make equipment that accepts keystone jacks.
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Jun 19, 2011 05:03
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I made this. Its powered by this. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-383 It sounds great and I love it and all, but I want to be able run it off a battery. I know that it can run off a 12v, but Im not sure how to hook it up. Or what battery to get. And my main question is how do I recharge it? Id like the charger to fit in there too, so its constantly charging when plugged in. Or will it need to be a separate power supply? Will it need to be switched to battery power when I want to go portable? Anyone have any idea how I can make this work?
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Jun 19, 2011 19:06
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Something like this should do. http://batteries.batterymart.com/px12072-12-volts-7.2-ah-verizon-fios-replacement--list A small battery tender should work fine as a charger. http://batterytender.com/lawn-garden/battery-tender-junior-12v-at-0-75a.html All you need to do is figure out how much runtime you can get per Ah(amp hour) and figuring out how small or large of a battery that you can use.
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Jun 19, 2011 20:30
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That amp you listed is 24v... You would need a pair of 12V batteries wired in series. Batteries for your rig depends on how much space is available inside. Most rechargeable 12V batteries are going to be lead acid, and lead is heavy. Lead acid batteries are used in cars and other vehicles. A lawn mower-sized one might work for you, but might not be a good idea for something that portable. Sealed lead acid (SLA) batteries are a little safer, but are more expensive and come in smaller sizes.
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Jun 19, 2011 21:06
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Ok, heres what Im thinking. Id like to use this, or something similar. http://www.amazon.com/Scooter-battery-Charger-Schwinn-Currie/dp/B00274B17I/ref=pd_sim_sg_2 If it works like I hope it does, I can just get a female xlr connect and mount that on the side of the case. Connect wires to the leads off the xlr and on to the batteries, wired in series. Then off the batteries and to the amp. So, when its plugged in it charges the batteries and powers the amp, and when its unplugged it just runs off the batteries. Yes? And when I connect the battery to the amp, do I just use a plug that fits the amp, then strip the other end and just connect it directly to the battery terminals? If I do that, will it be a problem having both amp and power leads attached to the battery, or is that totally cool? Sorry for all the questions. It makes sense in my head, but Id rather not blow up all this stuff. Or myself for that matter  And two 12vs will work fine, theres lots of room and weight isnt really a problem yet. The battery tender is ok, but I dont want to have to use clip leads. I really like the idea of the xlr plug on the side, hopefully that can work. Errrr just noticed, does the amp rating on the charger need to match that of the battery that its charging? hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jun 19, 2011 |
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Jun 19, 2011 23:27
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I had my A/C blower replaced recently, and while the new unit works very well, it seems a lot louder than I remember the old unit being. I'm not sure if it'sbecause it's actually pushing more air or just the fan in it is not as quiet. Either way I'm looking for some ways to silence it a bit. At first I thought much of the noise was coming from the air rushing past the return air grille, but after removing it, the sound level didn't really change much. So I guess most of the noise is coming directly from the fan. The way it is setup is that the return grille is on the wall directly below the blower, and the air filter slides into the bottom side of the blower. Behind the grille it opens up to a space much larger than the air filter. Here is a picture with the air return grille removed, looking up at the air filter (electrostatic type) showing how much space there is around it.  I'm wondering if putting some sort of acoustic insulation in this area might help at all. What sort of material should be used? Also, I'm thinking about trying to build some structure to smoothly funnel the air into the filter. Does anyone think something like that could help lessen the noise? 
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Jun 20, 2011 06:56
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I don't really have any useful info, but my parents had a similar problem. Turns out the guy they had put the bower in screwed them over and put one that was twice as powerful as the one they actually needed. It didn't make it work any better just loud as gently caress.
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Jun 20, 2011 18:28
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Does anyone know what kind of PVC was used for this sculpture: (Click for high res version) I don't expect an answer regarding specifics like the thickness of the PVC. However, I'd assume that there are different grades of the material. Does anyone have experience with the material and could suggest a good kind to buy for a similar (sculptural) application?
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Jun 20, 2011 22:14
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Hey I want hinges that I can attach to an old atari cartridge. It would have to be smaller then 1/2" wide. Or are there other alternatives like manipulating plastics to make durable hinges.
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Jun 22, 2011 04:51
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Raunchy posted:Hey I want hinges that I can attach to an old atari cartridge. It would have to be smaller then 1/2" wide. Or are there other alternatives like manipulating plastics to make durable hinges. They make tiny brass hinges for things like dollhouses and jewelry. 15 seconds of googling: http://www.whittemoredurgin.com/7155hinge.html You might want to check hobby and model building stores in your area. Attaching them to that cartridge will be a bitch, but they do make tiny screws and nuts too, like around #2 size. You might even want to go metric for those, like around 2.5mm diameter. edit: 3/16" square kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Jun 22, 2011 |
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Jun 22, 2011 05:20
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Raunchy posted:Hey I want hinges that I can attach to an old atari cartridge. It would have to be smaller then 1/2" wide. Or are there other alternatives like manipulating plastics to make durable hinges. Are you going to put your weed in there?
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Jun 22, 2011 05:45
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I'm going to apologize right now for not knowing the correct terminology. Anyway, we have a French Drain along the back of our house, because it sits on a hill and previously it had leaked into the basement and in fact pushed in the walls a bit before we bought the house. Since it was installed there's never been a problem with water coming in there. After this was done, the previous owner put a downspout right down into the...ground opening part of the French Drain. So instead of just having the groundwater from the backyard, its also getting a ton of rain off the roof. Normally this isn't a big deal, but during a recent monsoon the drain just couldn't handle the volume. I'm guessing having a downspout straight into the drain is a pretty terrible idea, yes? Can I just cap that bad boy and be done with it, or do I need to move the downspout somewhere?
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Jun 22, 2011 06:05
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kid sinister posted:Attaching them to that cartridge will be a bitch, but they do make tiny screws and nuts too, like around #2 size. I would just glue them on.
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Jun 22, 2011 06:52
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Already Bored posted:Does anyone know what kind of PVC was used for this sculpture: How do you know it was PVC? In my experience there's two major types of PVC. Type I is chemically resistant and commonly used in plumbing and other applications. Type II is impact resistant and used for structural applications. For your purposes I doubt it would matter which you use. What are you trying to accomplish? Usually it's sold in sheets, bars, or rods.
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Jun 22, 2011 16:11
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We have a single hardwired smoke detector in our home, that as far as I can tell doesn't have any sort of battery. It is mounted on the ceiling at the top of the stairs. It is a small (< 1000 sqft) two story duplex, built in the early 80's. There is no garage, and no gas service whatsoever. I don't think we need a CO2 detector, but what the hell, right? To replace the old alarm, I purchased: Kidde KN-COSM-IB Hardwire Combination Carbon Monoxide and Smoke Alarm with Battery Backup and Voice Warning, Interconnectable I am sure that voice warning will make false alarms extra creepy! Anyway, this alarm is an Ionization smoke detector, and does not have a photoelectric sensor. Is that a big deal? Should I park a photoelectric right next to it? I also bought this: Kidde PI9000 Battery-Operated Dual Ionization and Photoelectric Sensor Smoke Alarm as I feel like there should be some sort of alarm downstairs, as well. Is this reasonable?
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Jun 22, 2011 17:11
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