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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
the only short that's gonna fry the starter is one where the starter is left engaged till the battery dies. You may not be able to get the original starter back if it has already been cashed in as a core.

This shop is full of poo poo and it sounds like their tech should stick to simple poo poo like quicklube.

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Kin
Nov 4, 2003

Sometimes, in a city this dirty, you need a real hero.
I've got a Ford Focus Titanium (bought new but it's coming up to 4 years old in Feb) and I've always taken it back to the dealership for the service (and its MOT at year 3). I did that because I assumed the electronics/software would need a specialist to update them.

Was that actually necessary, or is it generally fine to go somewhere like Kwik-Fit?

A "check oil soon" message popped up a week or so back and changed to a "change oil soon" at the beginning of this week. I know dick-all about cars but I think the message is automated or something rather than some advanced sensor telling me my engine's about to explode or whatever happens when you don't change your oil.

Due to covid and working from home, the car is barely at 13,000 miles yet and I'm guessing it got the oil changed at the dealership when I got the MOT/service last February.

TLDR: should I wait Until Feb for dealing with the oil message at my next service/MOT and is it cool to go somewhere generic instead of the "specialist"?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I’d get it serviced. It probably is on a timer more than anything, but I don’t see what you stand to gain by waiting.

As for where to go, I’d probably stick with the dealership for now. Look into good independent shops in your area though. I just think when a car is in warranty the dealer is hard to beat, even for basic maintenance. In my area, they are even fairly reasonable pricewise.

The selling point of quick lube joints is convenience, but around here it comes with a premium price for pretty low tier service.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

A quick google indicates that Ford's oil change interval is every 7,500 miles or 1 year, so you're coming up on it either way. Do you have maintenance records from last February?

Kin
Nov 4, 2003

Sometimes, in a city this dirty, you need a real hero.
Thanks for the steer and for looking that info up. I'll book a service at the dealership tomorrow.

I should have the documents somewhere yeah. I just can't remember at all what they said about the car last Feb other than some salesperson on the phone trying to flog some premium something or other.

IIRC it had just hit 10k miles when I took it in, so going by what you found they should have changed the oil, but I'll find out for sure in the paperwork. Though i found something in the Fordpass app that says it was serviced in Jan 2022, but it was the "2 year service" at 6000 miles so that must have actually been done in 2021.

I think I've muddled up the various things and it was serviced in Jan 2021 where it's had its oil changed at 6000 miles. It had it's first MOT in Feb 2022 (not a service) which is why i can't remember them saying anything about oil, etc.

I never thought to check issues against the warranty, but sadly that ran out last Feb too (it only came with a base 3-year warranty and I didn't think to extend it).

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

You're alright. Extended warranties are generally frowned upon, though straight from the manufacturer is as good as they ever get. The thing now is to keep up on maintaining your vehicle, which should include reading the owner's manual. Not trying to be mean, but I imagine there's a good section on maintenance and the reminders you're seeing now. Helps to have somewhat of a mental map of what should be done when too.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

I generally get my cars serviced at the dealer. Especially if they are under factory warranty. The pricing is about the same as anywhere else, and I try to maintain a good relationship with the dealer. I think I'm on my 5th Ford I've bought from them.

The real reason though is if anything does go wrong with one of my cars they have all the service records and I don't have to fight with them about maintenance records. If something happens slightly out of warranty I might be able to convince them for a little goodwill by pointing out my loyalty (that's a longshot)

I do tend to do my own repairs though. I do my own brakes and other things that can be done without specialized tools as shop labor rates for that stuff is brutal.

luminalflux
May 27, 2005



I stopped going to the dealer, the techs there suck and the indie shop is a lot nicer to deal with

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Is this type of filter tool any good or at least better than the chain one?



The last time I tried to use the chain one, it a) broke and b) just mangled the filter. I do have the socket type that fits on the miata size filter but it's not universal and doesn't work on the Honda.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
I dunno about that one, but I like this one combined with a ratchet.

The claws tighten symmetrically as you turn it. It digs in to the filter a little but not bad. At least it doesn't slip and it's really easy to get into position.

Invalido fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Jan 5, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Why not buy the right size one for your filter? The kind that fits on the end cap. They're cheap and they work.

I get the above kind if you're dealing with a bunch of sizes I suppose, but really......the right ones are a few bucks a piece.

Mr Fish
Nov 16, 2016

mobby_6kl posted:

Is this type of filter tool any good or at least better than the chain one?




The plier style is extremely secure and will remove almost any filter. Generally it’s what I used even professionally back when I did that.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

Mr Fish posted:

The plier style is extremely secure and will remove almost any filter. Generally it’s what I used even professionally back when I did that.



I have all the “socket” style ones that fit on the end but typically end up just using these. Even in tight spaces you can usually get them to work - you just gotta break it loose then you can use your hands or use this at whatever weird angle works.

Also, harbor freight has both types of oil filter removal tools and the ones I have seen to work just fine.

JoshGuitar
Oct 25, 2005
These ones also work pretty well, and may work in some scenarios where Invalido's suggestion won't (or vice versa).



I remember when I bought a brand new 2002 diesel Ram, there was a known issue where the factory oil filter was tightened to gently caress by some force of nature and a regular wrench did nothing. The way the filter was positioned (under the hood, up high, open end up), the only reliable solution the internet knew of was this type of wrench, plus a long enough extension to clear the fender, plus a breaker bar and long cheater pipe. It still took some muscle to crack that thing loose.

I've never had any luck the few times I tried a regular strap wrench, but until I bought that Ram I used one of these for every oil change ever and they worked ok:

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

mobby_6kl posted:

Is this type of filter tool any good or at least better than the chain one?



I have nothing that can help you, but before expanding this image, it looked like a tool one would use in a bedroom, not on a car...

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

Motronic posted:

Why not buy the right size one for your filter? The kind that fits on the end cap. They're cheap and they work.

I get the above kind if you're dealing with a bunch of sizes I suppose, but really......the right ones are a few bucks a piece.

just do this guys, it's the best. I tried all sorts of those types of filter wrenches when I would import a bunch of different cars and the only thing that would consistently work is getting kit of a lot of different socket sizes for the filters. Nothing beats the fitted socket types, even if you could get other types to work.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Uthor posted:

I have nothing that can help you, but before expanding this image, it looked like a tool one would use in a bedroom, not on a car...

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Thanks for the suggestions all... I'll see if I could just get another socket instead. I was just thinking to simplify things so I only have one tool for filters. I don't have a garage so I need to get the right stuff from storage in advance and that doesn't always work out perfectly

Uthor posted:

I have nothing that can help you, but before expanding this image, it looked like a tool one would use in a bedroom, not on a car...
It's totally a multipurpose tool

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

When things are tight and you need to put a lot of force on one I’ve had better luck with the strap style than the socket tbh

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

bird with big dick posted:

When things are tight and you need to put a lot of force on one I’ve had better luck with the strap style than the socket tbh

The plier type lets you put on even more, and if you do it in the right direction it’ll cinch down even more on the filter and give you a great grip.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

When I was a kid I had a piece of spring steel, sharpened on one end, that was about a meter long that my friends and I called The Device. It was used for a number of horrible things when we were too broke to afford proper tools for anything, one of which was to impale oil filters and get them unstuck. We probably tightened them on way too hard and we probably put a bunch of poo poo from the filter right into the engine by piercing it like that. Whoops!

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
As long as the filter is open top up, it's extremely unlikely you got anything in the engine from doing that as long as you removed and replaced it before ever starting it again. Gravity is pretty unforgiving.

I'm never confident enough at that point so instead of doing that I take the largest c clamp that will rotate CCW in the space available and clamp it onto the filter pretty tight, then use it as a handle. I've had them come off unpunctured and without drama every time using this trick. It's nice because it doesn't leave any jagged edges so you can unscrew it the rest of the way without absentmindedly tearing the hell out of your hands and gloves with the jagged edges from the Ides of March approach.

At the quick lube I worked at in high school I probably did a thousand oil changes with the 3 jaw style one above, along with a 2 jaw one with more cupped jaws. Those work great if you don't want multiple sizes of filter socket in your tool rack or aren't sure what filter your next car might have etc etc.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

mobby_6kl posted:

Is this type of filter tool any good or at least better than the chain one?



The last time I tried to use the chain one, it a) broke and b) just mangled the filter. I do have the socket type that fits on the miata size filter but it's not universal and doesn't work on the Honda.

Was this a specific chain type filter wrench?

I've used "chain vice grips" on some pretty tight rear end hydraulic filters and they haven't gotten particularly mangled.
https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-Tools-Vise-Grip-9-Inch-Locking/dp/B00004SBCB?th=1

Maybe a little dent, but thats it. In fairness though, I'm taking the old filter off and tossing it. Don't know about your particular application though.

harperdc
Jul 24, 2007

Tl;dr any guide about fixing small scrapes on a bumper besides “don’t slather on touch-up paint like a dummy?”

Longer question:

Recently bought and took delivery on a 2016 BMW 118i through CPO over here in Japan. The prior owner appeared to be your stereotypical old dude who took insanely good care, as there was still original delivery protection plastic on a couple of the kick panels when you opened the door (!).

So naturally the first time I take it to my in-laws’ place, and my father-in-law graciously offers to let me park in front of the house (better to bring and deal with the baby and all) I scrape the rear bumper on the wall in their spot :smithicide:

(Context: in the Tokyo blob, and there’s no such thing as street parking. Spot out front of in-laws’ is big enough for a VW Golf, which is why he hasn’t done the old Japanese dude thing and bought a Crown sedan)

So. I have some slight scrapes on the left-rear of the back bumper mostly on the crease, and have the touch-up paint kit on the way. Photo evidence of idiocy:



Any posts in AI/advice on what to do? I know this isn’t a full respray or anything wild, but advice on how to prep and what besides the paint is needed would be nice.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

harperdc posted:

Tl;dr any guide about fixing small scrapes on a bumper besides “don’t slather on touch-up paint like a dummy?”

Longer question:

Recently bought and took delivery on a 2016 BMW 118i through CPO over here in Japan. The prior owner appeared to be your stereotypical old dude who took insanely good care, as there was still original delivery protection plastic on a couple of the kick panels when you opened the door (!).

So naturally the first time I take it to my in-laws’ place, and my father-in-law graciously offers to let me park in front of the house (better to bring and deal with the baby and all) I scrape the rear bumper on the wall in their spot :smithicide:

(Context: in the Tokyo blob, and there’s no such thing as street parking. Spot out front of in-laws’ is big enough for a VW Golf, which is why he hasn’t done the old Japanese dude thing and bought a Crown sedan)

So. I have some slight scrapes on the left-rear of the back bumper mostly on the crease, and have the touch-up paint kit on the way. Photo evidence of idiocy:



Any posts in AI/advice on what to do? I know this isn’t a full respray or anything wild, but advice on how to prep and what besides the paint is needed would be nice.

This guy is hands down the best I have found on youtube for doing a good job of teaching you how to use a spray can to paint stuff at home.
https://www.youtube.com/@PaintSociety

But my real advice is get someone else to do it. Paint is loving difficult to do really well and if you're feeling really bad about this instead of "eh, gently caress it, touchup pen is fine." then you are probably feeling bad enough that paying for someone else to do it will make you happier long run (depending of course, on finances, if it's a finance issue go watch a shitload of those videos and make a checklist of things he does and tells you to do and then give it a shot).

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Silver is an absolute bitch to do properly too. I'm normally DIY all the things, except paint that I care about.

I would have a shop do it, or just live with it.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
I think it's fine to DIY that as a 10-footer with the touchup kit unless you're super anal, in which case get someone else to do it.

I live in a city and street park so I don't give a gently caress about what new scrapes appear on the car. If I did, I would drive myself insane.

Sleepytime
Dec 21, 2004

two shots of happy, one shot of sad

Soiled Meat

Sleepytime posted:

I have a 2013 Subaru Forester and I'm starting to notice that the engine doesn't sound the same, and a separate issue where at times it hesitates/stutters (this feel more transmission related if I had to say, not engine related). We have a local chain that we like to go to for anything car related that isn't an oil change, but haven't needed any significant work besides brakes/tires and things like that. Is it worth having the local look at the engine, or do I need to take it to a dealer for this kind of stuff?

Took it to a local place and then the dealer who both say the engine needs to be replaced / rebuilt. They say it's knocking and either a rod or engine bearing are to blame. Besides the engine replacement, they also recommend replacing the spark plugs.

I am WFH and expecting our first kid in February, so we will be able to manage on 1 car for at least a few months.

For now, I'm thinking of holding on to my car for emergency use only and then selling it once baby has arrived. Is this crazy, are there any alternatives I should consider? Would doing the spark plugs only help us milk more out of the car?

e: They just let me know that the knocking went away after they added oil. I will drive this into the sunset so just ignore my post :banjo:

Sleepytime fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Jan 6, 2023

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Replacing spark plugs won't extend the life of a Subaru engine. Only replacing the longblock will extend the life of the Subaru.

They do this. It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

RIP Paul Walker posted:

Is my (potentially excessive, I like a clean windscreen) use of the cheap alcohol-based windshield washer the reason my wiper blades don’t seem to last all that long?

Could be. I use one of those waterless wash solutions for my windscreen and it works super well. The one I am using has a dilution ratio of like 1:256 or something, so lasts ages. Discontinued now though.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

wesleywillis posted:

Was this a specific chain type filter wrench?

I've used "chain vice grips" on some pretty tight rear end hydraulic filters and they haven't gotten particularly mangled.
https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-Tools-Vise-Grip-9-Inch-Locking/dp/B00004SBCB?th=1

Maybe a little dent, but thats it. In fairness though, I'm taking the old filter off and tossing it. Don't know about your particular application though.
Similar but without the vise grip.

Spent a few minutes googling it but then remembered I posted the aftermath in my shitbox thread. There's just a thin stamped metal sheet instead of the vice grip, you hook the chain to it, so when you pull the lever it tensions the chain and applies torque at the same time. It's a bit fiddly but works unless the filter is really stuck. Then it mangles the filter enough to cause a leak before falling apart :D



The filter goes into trash anyway so that doesn't matter as long as it actually comes off.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Automotive Insanity › AI Stupid Question Thread - Besides the engine replacement, they also recommend replacing the spark plugs

Harold Fjord
Jan 3, 2004
Got a 2020 Sentra. Sunroof edge is leaking a little, how big a concern is this?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Harold Fjord posted:

Got a 2020 Sentra. Sunroof edge is leaking a little, how big a concern is this?

Still under 3/36 warranty? Take it in.

Any water leaks are a serious concern. You have no idea where the water is going, you only know where what you can see is going. It's probably much worse.

First thing to check if it's not under warranty are the sunroof drains. Make sure they are clear. String trimmer line does a good job of snaking them out.

E: warranty is 3/36 not 3/265 - I have no idea how I fat fingered that.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jan 6, 2023

Harold Fjord
Jan 3, 2004
What's that warranty? This is used and I didn't take any extra dealer coverage has that changed and is now good? I know the powertrain has another four and a half years.

I'll check the drains, that they exist tells me water getting into this area is normal.

It's not a lot of water and not getting into the interior of the vehicle at all so it sounds like it might just be fine

Harold Fjord fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Jan 6, 2023

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Water ingress is bad in any amount. How is it leaking if the water isn't getting in to the interior of the vehicle?

In most cases the factory warranty is transferable, which is 3/36. You should still be covered. Here is more information from Nissan. Take it in.

Harold Fjord
Jan 3, 2004
When I say leaking I mean getting past the sunroof exterior seal and into what I now know are sunroof gutters. So I opened up the sunroof and saw scattered bits of water and became concerned that it could eventually become a Problem. But as long as I keep those drains clear it's probably fine.

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

Harold Fjord posted:

When I say leaking I mean getting past the sunroof exterior seal and into what I now know are sunroof gutters. So I opened up the sunroof and saw scattered bits of water and became concerned that it could eventually become a Problem. But as long as I keep those drains clear it's probably fine.

Yeah the exterior seal on sunroofs isn't water tight, just water resistant. What actually happens is water does get in there, it goes into the gutters (where it is supposed to) and then drain out through tubes, usually at the rear of that gutter tray in the roof and snaking down the C pillar exiting toward the rear of the car. When people say their sunroof is leaking what they almost always mean is their drains are plugged (usually with tree debris) and water builds up over that tray and spills into the headliner. When I see people with tape over their sunroof exterior seals, :negative:

just clear your drains! Two cars I imported had this, one with tape the other with very sloppily applied silicone. Clearing the drains fixed the issue both times.

Harold Fjord
Jan 3, 2004

Harold Fjord posted:

After another long weekend without a car the issue is reportedly a fuse box short frying starter that will cost another 500

I talked them down some on the fuse box. So today they call and say that the fuse box doesn't have a harness so they also need another $800 to replace that.

They are never touching my new car

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builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

Harold Fjord posted:

I talked them down some on the fuse box. So today they call and say that the fuse box doesn't have a harness so they also need another $800 to replace that.

They are never touching my new car

Why are they still touching your current car?

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