|
I think I found the best tool for our pesky fan nuts: I know my E36 has a 32mm nut, looks like I'll be borrowing this next time it needs to come off!
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 20:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 18:44 |
|
|
Holy crap, THIS GUY: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Supe...0001#vi-content A 1988 6'er with a pretty nice (if ricey) job on the exterior, an interior that looks as though its still in it's clay phase, all for the low, low price of $250,000. Yup. Two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. At MOST I'd pay 10-12k for this. I wager I could make my 6, which I've invested $7,500 into so far into something equivalent but tasteful for another $5 to $6,000. He's gotta be stuntin'. Nobody in their right mind is gonna give him that money for that car. NOBODY. So why would he do this?
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 22:58
|
|
|
I think it looks really, really good as a modern interpretation of an E24, but yeah, thats not worth a fraction of that. Maybe$25,000. I mean, mint M6s are around $25k, right? And you're paying for the pedigree mostly, the '1000 original miles' and 'original tires' and stuff rather than the actual performance. Take that away, and add modernity, I'd say it should about even out. edit: Same year, alightly lower miles, better rear end, six grand. You could total it many times over and not come close to that guy's price. But the blood, sweat and tears, man! CornHolio fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Nov 13, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 23:02
|
|
|
The interior of that thing is absolutely beautiful. I love old 6 Series' cabins, but man does that one kick it up a notch. Wow.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 23:17
|
|
|
The interior is way to monochromatic for my taste. And the fact that he kept the steering column the original color out of everything else strikes me as off. Besides, in the event of an airbag event, the guy is gonna end up with a mini-roundel stuck in his face. 250k and he can't have filled in the extra exhaust blank in the rear? I think his wife is making him sell it and he put it up there just to say "look, honey, nobody's buying it!" And yeah, an M6 like the one CornHolio posted will probably get somewhere between 6 and 8k. An enthusiast owned M6 will often go in the 12-15k range. I've got an 87 non-M with 96k miles, and with a little detail work (door dings, fresh paint and little details) I could probably drop for 8. If I went for 10 points of Dinan'ing I could probably get $8,500 or 9k for. I just can't fathom what this guy is thinking.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 23:44
|
|
|
chem42 posted:High five, high mile '92 325i buddy! Mine doesn't have a clutch interlock either. Having the non-vanos engine is cool, they seem to be more reliable than the vanos versions. Keep in mind that the early '92s have a unique front strut design so if you want to upgrade the suspension at all you'll have to hunt down '92 specific parts or convert to the later strut mounts and struts. I've kept mine stock other than poly bushings all around and new ball joints and sway bar ends. How's your interior? Interior is probably about 5/10 right now. The big issue is that the idiot PO failed at reinstalling the door cards pretty horribly, and they are kind of loose. I'm probably going to replace all four, and then in the next year or so I'd like to replace the two front seats as the leather is in rough shape. The rear is in good enough shape for me. Suspension is pretty good, I have a very slight rattle from the right rear occasionally, but it's not enough to bother me yet. Shocks are in good shape. The drivetrain is pretty solid. The motor mounts are probably about half worn at this point, I can tell they are going out but it's not very noticeable. The only real issue so far is that the transmission grinds going into first, especially when it's cold out. I have a feeling all it needs is new gear oil. PO said that it has a new transmission, no clue if it actually does or not. Other than the first gear grind it shifts fine. Stereo is nonfunctional. No sound out of any of the 8 speakers. It's got an aftermarket unit with wiring harness. The headunit is fine so I imagine it's something silly. Do these cars have a amp hidden somewhere? Oh, and the rearview mirror was found in the trunk. There were tubes of superglue ALL OVER the goddamn car, you'd think they would have realized that superglue doesn't work after the 5th or 6th try. Cleaned the mirror up and re-installed it using proper epoxy, so that was a pretty easy fix. It seems like the car was owned by a reasonable person for most of its life, and then owned by an idiot for the last two years or so. The interior is rough but the drivetrain and suspension are solid. I noticed that the thermostat housing is aluminum, so I have a feeling it was owned by a car person at some point. So far I'm loving it though. I've put about 300 miles on it so far and it's been great. I'll post pics and maybe a thread shortly.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 23:47
|
|
|
It's funny... my '92 325i has a lot of the same little niggling issues as well. My suspension rattle is on the rear LEFT, though. That should be gone after tomorrow, however, when the new shocks, struts and reinforcements get installed. My driver's side door panel also is slightly loose due to some warpage, but I have it fixed enough to not make me crazy about replacing it. My sunroof crapped out, but I'm not going to worry about that until I'm through with getting the suspension updated. My driver's seat has a busted seam, and I'm deciding between replacing it or re-sewing it. Overall it's a great car and I absolutely love it, even more than the E30 it replaced. It's going to put me in the poorhouse, though, because it's right at the point where I can really see it's potential to be an amazing car and it makes me feel like the money is well-spent. EDIT: And my stereo locked me out even though I have the security code. Blah.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2009 00:07
|
|
|
Keyser S0ze posted:E46/4: This has been pretty common for BMW for quite some time. It is a shame really. Typically the incoming 3 is about the size of the older 5 and the incoming 5 is the size of the older 7 and so on.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2009 02:52
|
|
|
I finally picked up my 135 on Thursday. I forgot to bring my camera to the dealership, so I missed all the pictures of the car being unveiled in the showroom and stuff  . They walked me around the car telling me all about it, then I got inside with the dude and he explained everything about the interior/nav/controls. At least I didn't fail AI by getting an auto  Since I didn't bring my camera, I didn't get a picture of it with 1 mile on the odometer    This is my first new car, the whole process was pretty uneventful. I walked in, told them what I wanted, then paid a deposit so they could start building it. After about a month they called and said they had a VIN, then I started the paperwork for the loan and wrote them a check. After another few weeks I went to the dealership and drove off the lot.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2009 12:43
|
|
|
FUUUUUUUUUCK. On the way to dinner last night, I overheated our '99 M3. The lower radiator hose fell off at the thermostat -- insufficiently tightened during my cooling system replacement, despite me having test driven it twice, the hose was obviously not fully on there. I put it back on and refilled with coolant, but now the cooling system is showing signs suspiciously like a hosed head gasket. How many @#($*&@# hours is this HG going to take me to replace? I've not done one on an E36 yet -- just a couple Hondas, which are dead-nuts simple. For those with experience, are there any gotchas or omissions from the Bentley? Edit: JesustittyfuckingChrist. Apparently I have to have TWO special BMW tools to lock at TDC -- one to lock the rotating assembly (insert into the transmission bellhousing) and one to lock the cams. Alternatives...? Also need a special tool for the head bolts themselves, "a thin-walled Torx E12 socket with an extended reach. The cylinder head bolts are recessed into the head below the camshaft towers with little working space." Delight. Resolution: Came back to the car this afternoon. Filled it up to the cold mark; started it and ran it for 2-3 mins, then topped off. Idled till it warmed up, tightened on the expansion tank cap, and took for a quick drive around the parking lot -- no problem at all. Drove it home, roughly 10 mins, with no ill behavior whatsoever. Going to do a compression check tomorrow. It was running *flawlessly* on the way home, though. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Nov 15, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2009 18:00
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:HG stuff, "a thin-walled Torx E12 socket with an extended reach. The cylinder head bolts are recessed into the head below the camshaft towers with little working space." Out of curiosity, what kind of blown HG symptoms are you getting? Sears sells that socket for 4 dollars. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Nov 14, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2009 19:13
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:FUUUUUUUUUCK. How long did you drive it in the red?
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2009 23:38
|
|
|
I changed the oil today, put 15W40 in there, car runs a lot smoother. I was able to reset the maintenance indicator also, by shorting a couple pins on the diagnostic connector. So that was good. I am still trying to diagnose the stereo problems. I removed all the PO's scotch tape from the wiring harness and soldered everything up. Still having no sound, I pulled trunk bits out to access the factory amp. I noticed a) The PO tried to install Pioneer speakers into the stock boxes in the back b) the fuse was blown So I tried installing a new fuse (10A) and it sparked up and blew instantly (with the car off). Any ideas on what could be the issue? Also, is there any reason why I should replace burnt fuses with the BMW ones that have the fusible part at the top? It makes sense in the fusebox but on the amp it doesn't seem necessary.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 00:01
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Out of curiosity, what kind of blown HG symptoms are you getting? Good to know. CornHolio posted:How long did you drive it in the red? Drove it for about 2-3 minutes after the hose disconnected, all told. It was only in the red for 45-60sec. Bought distilled water (I stopped at a well-lit supermarket) and tried to refill the radiator after reattaching the hose to the t-stat. I filled the overflow and started the car, but the overflow was bubbling quite a lot. I on put the overflow cap and tried to drive away, but it almost immediately went into the red again. At that point, I wasn't willing to piss off my wife any more by loving with it, so I called some friends for a ride.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 02:24
|
|
|
revmoo posted:So I tried installing a new fuse (10A) and it sparked up and blew instantly (with the car off). I'm not sure if there's any kind of protection circuit in those blaupunkt amps, but besides amp damage, the only other thing that could cause that excessive current would be a shorted speaker lead. You can check for this by probing the positive speaker leads for resistance with respect to ground, either at the amp or the speakers. It should read infinite resistance if there are no shorts. The fuses don't matter, although I do like how you don't have to pull the BMW ones to tell when they're blown. EDIT: gently caress whoever decided that there needed to be one bolt on an E34 M50 oil pan right underneath the drivers side motor mount. Needed 2 u-joints and a wobble extension to get that fucker off. And gently caress the Bentley manual for saying that the 3 torx bolts in the back are Torx E-8, when in actuality they are E-10. At least the local sears doesn't keep their tools locked up. 
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Nov 15, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 02:33
|
|
|
flublandDrussiavelt posted:If you're really reffering to the e34 530i (1993-1995), it had a 215 hp v8, basically a smaller m60 with all the problems and bad economy and less power. Maybe you mean something older like a e12? If you perfer the v8, that is fine, to whoever posted the original request, try driving both and see what you like. Also keep in mind that driving a manual means the car is quicker (and more importantly feels quicker). It's too bad they never had a 530i wagon over here cause the 225hp has just the right amount of power with no sacrifices to fuel economy or reliablity. Nah, the M30B30, Euro-only 3.0l M30.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 03:19
|
|
|
I'm looking at getting a convertible and right now it's kind of tied up between a used mini (s or not) or a z4, preferably 2006 or newer, preferably less than 50k miles, hopefully around $14-17k. There are a fair number of minis that are edging down toward that price, and I already have one so I know what I'm getting into on that. The question is: Should I just assume there is something deathly wrong with a z4 meeting those conditions in that price range? I've seen a few, but most that meet those conditions are $20k+.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 04:33
|
|
|
Doodarazumas posted:I'm looking at getting a convertible and right now it's kind of tied up between a used mini (s or not) or a z4, preferably 2006 or newer, preferably less than 50k miles, hopefully around $14-17k. There are a fair number of minis that are edging down toward that price, and I already have one so I know what I'm getting into on that. I don't think you'll find a 2006 at that price. I've been looking at roadsters myself and like the looks of the Z4, and my price range is just a bit lower then that at 13-15k. I can't find anything newer then 2004 with over 60k miles for that kind of dough, and they're all 2.5 models.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 06:52
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Sounds like some pretty serious lovely wiring. Two things to check. Check for voltage on the turn-on lead on the input harness for the amp. Should read 0 with the car off and 12 with the radio on. If I remember right this wire should be white or white/black stripe. If this isn't right, then your deck is wired wrong, but probably not the reason for blowing fuses. Very helpful. I'm going to check these items out, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 14:03
|
|
|
Keyser S0ze posted:Very worthy of a Roundel or Bimmer magazine entry if not already there. We sent it in to Roundel with hopes of it making the next issue.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2009 22:06
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:Bought distilled water (I stopped at a well-lit supermarket) and tried to refill the radiator after reattaching the hose to the t-stat. I filled the overflow and started the car, but the overflow was bubbling quite a lot. I on put the overflow cap and tried to drive away, but it almost immediately went into the red again. At that point, I wasn't willing to piss off my wife any more by loving with it, so I called some friends for a ride. Could have been an air bubble in the system. I had a similar issue after leaving the expansion tank cap off several years ago on an E36. Had to bleed the system, ultimately did a full flush/refill, but I doubt you did much damage in that short time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2009 06:42
|
|
|
Just what I need. More problems from my e46. I drive a 2001 325i automatic with about 109k miles. I checked out previous pages of this thread but couldn't find anything addressing this exact problem (although, I found a few posts about the DSC/ABS/BRAKE problem). I was on I-68 driving to Washington, DC, when all of a sudden my brakes activated in sort of a tapping pattern (as if I was tapping the brake pedal rather hard). They "pulsed" like this maybe 3 or 4 times. Furthermore, I had my foot on the gas pedal. I was not applying any force whatsoever to the brake pedal. When this happened, the DSC and BRAKE(yellow) lights came on. I exited the highway, turned off the vehicle, waited a bit, and turned it back on. The lights had disappeared. I got back on the highway, and it happened again within about 20 miles. Brakes start to bind up, etc. I've done some extensive Googling, and have found mention of the DSC/BRAKE error combo, but nothing discussing the brake activation like I have experienced. I had new tires put on the car several weeks ago, and I made a couple long trips (3.5 hours each way) in the car immediately afterwords with no problems. Is it possible that the shop damaged a wheel speed sensor? Could that cause the brakes to activate like that? I should also add that once the DSC/BRAKE lights come on, I don't experience any more of that unwanted and disconcerting braking. Any ideas about what's going on?
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2009 06:56
|
|
|
doogle posted:Congratulations, shame on all of you for letting this go ten responses without props. Pretty polarizing car, but I think they're amazing and hope to own one some day.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2009 07:36
|
|
|
Date with Ikea posted:Just what I need. More problems from my e46. I drive a 2001 325i automatic with about 109k miles. I checked out previous pages of this thread but couldn't find anything addressing this exact problem (although, I found a few posts about the DSC/ABS/BRAKE problem).
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2009 08:41
|
|
|
flublandDrussiavelt posted:maybe your calipers are seizing up? I considered that as well. I believe I forgot to mention that once the DSC/BRAKE lights are on, I have no more problems. None. No brake seizing or anything. Hence why I think it may be something involved with the DSC system. I believe my temporary solution is going to be to manually turn off DSC every time I drive until I can get the car to my BMW specialist.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2009 15:56
|
|
|
Date with Ikea posted:I considered that as well. I believe I forgot to mention that once the DSC/BRAKE lights are on, I have no more problems. None. No brake seizing or anything. Hence why I think it may be something involved with the DSC system. I believe my temporary solution is going to be to manually turn off DSC every time I drive until I can get the car to my BMW specialist. I think the newer versions of DSC like yours should have speed sensors in each wheel hub to measure for slipping. Sounds like one of those could be going bad and causing the car to think it's slipping or yawing or something, and trying to help you out. It does this for too long and can't fix the hosed up signal it's getting and finally gives up and throws a code and shuts off. A good local independent shop would probably read the code for free/very cheap. EDIT: And DSC and ABS are both going to operate off those so it makes sense that both would come on at the same time. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Nov 16, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2009 19:05
|
|
|
blown wheel sensors caused me to have the abs fail, was ~50 from ye ol stealership iirc the next time my abs went out, I went in expecting another blown wheel sensor ... the traction computer went out, that cost a bit
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2009 19:39
|
|
|
Im going to view a 2004 320d ES Touring tomorrow. 89000 miles on the clock. Is there anything I should look out for with this model? The price is reasonable, seems to be roughly the going rate in the UK for one of these.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2009 22:30
|
|
|
EvilMoFo posted:blown wheel sensors caused me to have the abs fail, was ~50 from ye ol stealership iirc i was looking it up and it does seem like his problem could be caused by speed sensors coming loose, though that should only turn on the lights and cause the abs to turn off, not apply the brakes. I'm pretty certain that the dsc does apply the brakes individually to gain traction, so i guess the unit could be busted, though that seems very rare. Sounds like it would be expensive too, shame.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2009 04:55
|
|
|
flublandDrussiavelt posted:i was looking it up and it does seem like his problem could be caused by speed sensors coming loose, though that should only turn on the lights and cause the abs to turn off, not apply the brakes. I'm pretty certain that the dsc does apply the brakes individually to gain traction, so i guess the unit could be busted, though that seems very rare. Sounds like it would be expensive too, shame. You can pick up the computers pretty cheap on Ebay, and (depending where it is mounted) they are usually fairly easy to replace yourself. I got one from an E34 (which I ended up not needing) for <$30 shipped. Which is available BTW, if anyone needs.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2009 05:15
|
|
|
flublandDrussiavelt posted:i was looking it up and it does seem like his problem could be caused by speed sensors coming loose, though that should only turn on the lights and cause the abs to turn off, not apply the brakes. I'm pretty certain that the dsc does apply the brakes individually to gain traction, so i guess the unit could be busted, though that seems very rare. Sounds like it would be expensive too, shame. I should clarify that I still have ABS after the lights come on (the ABS light does not come on, just the DSC and BRAKE lights). If I can get my hands on a meter I'll give the sensors a quick test.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2009 06:08
|
|
|
I just bought a used 2005 M3 with 52k mi.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 600x800 image. My wife in the foreground.  Click here for the full 600x800 image.  Click here for the full 600x800 image. Spring 2010 seems so far away!!!
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2009 16:11
|
|
|
Nice M3  Spring 2010? Pffft, heated seats and heater on full blast and you should be good with the top down in winter 2009 
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2009 16:24
|
|
|
Date with Ikea posted:I should clarify that I still have ABS after the lights come on (the ABS light does not come on, just the DSC and BRAKE lights). If I can get my hands on a meter I'll give the sensors a quick test. yeah, I think that starting with the speed sensors is a good option, after that you should check out your brakes and move on from there. Did you call a mechanic with this problem? Mechanics (the good ones, at least) have access to a pay per use network and manufacturer recalls.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2009 21:29
|
|
|
That ebay 6 series is pretty hot. Ridiculous price though. Made me miss my 633 Question about the Xenons, in my e46 sometimes the left one is slow to turn on. It'll usually flick on eventually, so I'm guessing this is some kind of electrical gremlin rather than the xenon bulb/assembly in need of repair? Often I just turn the car off and then on again to get it to come on, but it is a little annoying. It's liveable if it is a spendy/complex repair, though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2009 03:18
|
|
|
priznat posted:
There are really only three components in these systems and with your symptoms it's most likely either the bulb or the igniter. I'd put my money on a failing igniter. If you buy oem parts then everything related to the xenons is expensive. Replacing the igniter requires dismantling the headlamp assembly as well. It's not that difficult but it's much more involved than replacing a bulb or control unit.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2009 04:30
|
|
|
peterjmatt posted:There are really only three components in these systems and with your symptoms it's most likely either the bulb or the igniter. I'd put my money on a failing igniter. Thanks! That helps a lot in being able to google for some detailed instructions, just typing "e46 xenon failure" etc was getting me nowhere. I found this step-by-step from searching with the igniter in the terms: http://www.bigpatsfans.com/hl/headlight.htm Those parts ain't cheap though, you're right. ~$115 for the igniter and ~$450 for the control unit? yeek. Perhaps just try to replace the igniter the first go around and see if that solves it eh 
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2009 09:13
|
|
|
Godddd gently caress my life. The new shocks I ordered came in, but I'm pretty sure one of the rears is defective. After cutting the strap, one of them didn't rise up until I pulled it. If I compress them both by hand side-by-side, the one that didn't come up takes about 2x as long to rise, if it doesn't get stuck at the same place it was when I cut the strap. Combine this with replacing an oil pan gasket that wasn't even leaking, and I have had just the greatest automotive week ever!
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2009 19:52
|
|
|
How much trouble is it to replace the bulbs in the E36 window switches? I have two bulbs out and I'm debating trying to replace the bulbs or just buy new ones for $30 a piece. Also, anyone have a line on a cheap OBC that isn't on eBay?
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2009 20:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 18:44 |
|
|
Well what the hell. Anyone know what the fuel pressure is supposed to be for a '92 525i? In TIS with my VIN it says 3, for an e36 it says 3.5-4, and in the e34 Bentley it says 3.5. I'm reading like 3.9 base (jumped relay), like 3.2 idling, and 3.9 again under no vacuum, so I'm not sure if the regulator is bad or if something else is going on without knowing what the pressure is supposed to be.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2009 00:18
|
|