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what is recommended for yellow paint? my vallejo model color may have gone bad, very runny and washy
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Aug 8, 2021 23:22
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punishedkissinger posted:what is recommended for yellow paint? my vallejo model color may have gone bad, very runny and washy most yellows are pretty bad and I do my best to mostly airbrush it when I have to but for brush painting I've had good success with Averland Sunset and then another yellow on top of that. I've done one experiment with a yellow contrast over that which I liked on a banner but haven't had an opportunity to try further. Key is good prep work and try basing in a light color rather than straight over black etc.
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Aug 9, 2021 00:04
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My current position on yellow is "convince myself I don't want to paint anything yellow." I wanted to see what I could do by blending colors in the Vallejo game paint set, so I did a color test for a purple made out of the basic red and blue. It also doesn't come with a bronze-ish metallic, so I tried mixing some orange into the gold for the canister.  Not bad! I'm not being very precise with the drybrushing, but the effect looks smoother in person. This was a fun learning experience, I may use the rest of the marines in this box as color experiments. EDIT: Oh, and I'm pretty happy with the Army Painter wash set so far too - the purple helped deepen the color on this, I'm glad I had more than black and brown. Squiggle fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Aug 9, 2021 |
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Aug 9, 2021 00:10
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punishedkissinger posted:what is recommended for yellow paint? my vallejo model color may have gone bad, very runny and washy If something needs to be yellow-ish, like yellow with orange shading in the recesses, I just use the GW contrast paint (Iyanden yellow I think? Something like that) over white. If I want to paint something properly yellow and maybe shade it with a colour that isnt orange, well... You know the vallejo model colour yellow you had? Was it "flat yellow"? Because if so I dont have an alternate recommendation, Vallejo Model Colour: Flat Yellow has been my go-to for a while now, its the closest I've seen to actual coverage with a yellow paint. Army painters demonic yellow is absolute dogshit (and I say that as someone who doesnt hate army painter paints in general), C'oat D'Arms yellows are all various shades of thin failure. Cant speak to the current GW yellows because other than the contrast one I havent tried them.
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Aug 9, 2021 00:30
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Bit the bullet and glued the 2 pieces together of my Kyria model but it's still got some work to finish it up. Still debating whether to magnetize the head because I don't love the bald look. The E on this side looks good just don't ask to see the other side  
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Aug 9, 2021 02:03
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Got tired of GW not making Primaris-scale Grey Knights so I figured, gently caress this, going to convert some marines. Very happy with how this first one came out!    The chad Primaris knight v. the virgin squatknight 
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Aug 9, 2021 04:05
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Cross-post from the 40k thread: Got a new squad of tankbustas, ready for varnish once the oils cure. This is my second batch mixing oils for highlights and I'm sold on the process. Haven't tried any fancy blends on-model but the ease of covering and removing spots is fantastic. Speaking of varnish, I used some krylon on my last batch, and they look frosted as all hell. Is fixing the issue as easy as reapplying a varnish coat with a better product? I have some AK ultra matte.
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Aug 9, 2021 04:59
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punishedkissinger posted:what is recommended for yellow paint? my vallejo model color may have gone bad, very runny and washy Like others have said, start by basecoating something yellow-ish, like light sandy brown, and then build up your yellows on top of that. Never do yellow directly over black primer. Squiggle posted:My current position on yellow is "convince myself I don't want to paint anything yellow." Thats a nice looking purple, especially considering you mixed it. Purple is a hard color to mix, because blue and red pigments don't always play well together and tend to turn an ugly brown-gray color. Mistaken For Bacon posted:Cross-post from the 40k thread: Try a heavy gloss coat and then follow it with a new matte coat. The gloss will basically fill in the rough surface of the bad varnish giving you a new smooth surface to apply the matte to.
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Aug 9, 2021 06:09
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punishedkissinger posted:what is recommended for yellow paint? my vallejo model color may have gone bad, very runny and washy Nuclear solution, but Kimera. The regular Yellow is pretty opaque, especially when mixed with a bit of opaque white paint, and the Yellow Oxide will pretty much cover over black in a couple of coats, and can form a really good base layer for another yellow.
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Aug 9, 2021 07:44
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punishedkissinger posted:what is recommended for yellow paint? my vallejo model color may have gone bad, very runny and washy Yellow ink over white or pink is yellow easy mode and I'll never look back. If you want to stick to paint, the best process I found was - Averland Sunset base, then Sun Yellow, Casandora Yellow if you need a shade, and then Moon Yellow for highlights. But honestly the ink way is better, especially over a zenithal.
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Aug 9, 2021 08:40
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I tend to go to some of my Vallejo sandy browns for a first layer if I'm doing yellow. As others have said, pure yellow directly on most primers is haram.
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Aug 9, 2021 12:17
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What is everyone's favorite super glue brand and applicator? I have a Hobbytown USA generic bottle but it flows out way too easily and makes a mess. I preferred the kind with a brush before and will likely go to that again unless there's something even better.
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Aug 9, 2021 12:18
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Admiral Joeslop posted:What is everyone's favorite super glue brand and applicator? I have a Hobbytown USA generic bottle but it flows out way too easily and makes a mess. I preferred the kind with a brush before and will likely go to that again unless there's something even better.
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Aug 9, 2021 12:27
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jesus WEP posted:for plastic cement it’s hard to beat tamiya extra thin Same here, although sometimes it dries so fast you have no other option but to apply it after you assembled the pieces (that's how it's supposed to work actually). I use this probably 90% of the time, but for the remaining 10% or when I need to cover a larger area, I use regular scale modeling glue (the ones with a tiny needle at the top). For super glue (which isn't always better than plastic cement) I like Loctite's Super Glue "Control" (it's more of a gel) and their "Power Flex" thing where you squeeze the bottle. 
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Aug 9, 2021 12:36
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jesus WEP posted:for plastic cement it’s hard to beat tamiya extra thin Does this work on resin? I have some Dragon's Lake Miniatures and my friend says they're resin, he knows more than I do about this stuff. I do have a bottle of cement already, with a brush applicator. It seems to dry really fast, almost before I can put the brush back in the liquid and attach the pieces. Furism posted:Same here, although sometimes it dries so fast you have no other option but to apply it after you assembled the pieces (that's how it's supposed to work actually). I use this probably 90% of the time, but for the remaining 10% or when I need to cover a larger area, I use regular scale modeling glue (the ones with a tiny needle at the top). For super glue (which isn't always better than plastic cement) I like Loctite's Super Glue "Control" (it's more of a gel) and their "Power Flex" thing where you squeeze the bottle. Cool, I snagged some of these. Gel sounds much better, my big hands are still bad at gluing small miniatures. Thanks goons.
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Aug 9, 2021 12:50
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Does this work on resin? No, plastic cement works by softening/breaking down the plastic to the point where 2 pieces of plastic can fuse into one. Resin doesn't have an equivalent (to my knowledge)and you need to use crazy glue or another cyanoacrylate glue. FYI crazy glue can cause a white frosting as it dries due to its vapours and moisture. You can clean it up with a little isopropyl alcohol or let it dry in a "dry" place (or blow on it)
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Aug 9, 2021 13:38
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yeah for super gluing resin together i just use whatever super glue is in the corner shop, loctite seems to dry in the tube less often than gorilla glue in my experience
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Aug 9, 2021 13:45
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UV Resin can also work for fusing resin pieces together, it works especially well if the parts are clear; it can just be a pain because sometimes you need a third hand to hold the light.
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Aug 9, 2021 13:53
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I like zap a gap for superglue even though the bottle isn't perfect. It adheres very well but also never seen it frost etc plus it's a bit thick which I like.
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Aug 9, 2021 13:56
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I've been working with miniatures off and on for 17 years, you'd think I'd remember all this between stints in the plastic mines.
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Aug 9, 2021 14:06
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I've been working with miniatures off and on for 17 years, you'd think I'd remember all this between stints in the plastic mines. memory loss just means the plastic glue is working
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Aug 9, 2021 14:20
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Cool, I snagged some of these. Gel sounds much better, my big hands are still bad at gluing small miniatures. Gel superglue is the best, it stay where you put it, you have enough working time to squeeze some out onto some scrap car or something then use a pin or a toothpick to apply it where you need (for awkward areas). Its great. But for those bottles specifically just be aware that when the power flex bottle stops dispensing glue, that doesnt necessarily mean there is no glue left. Its just (deliberately?) poo poo at getting the last of the glue out. I tend to go for tubes myself (dont particularly care about brand, whatever gel superglue is cheap. Its usually Ultraloc or Gorilla in my local pound shop I think).
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Aug 9, 2021 14:26
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I think I'd subscribe to this though process from EonsOfBattle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJTqCfy8qRw&t=281s
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Aug 9, 2021 14:37
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if the glue isn’t coming out of the tube, please don’t just keep squeezing harder like this shithead did. the cleanup is a nightmare.
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Aug 9, 2021 15:17
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I almost got a paperclip stuck inside the nozzle of my super glue at work  Tbh it's sometimes better to just say "gently caress it" and buy a new thing of something cheap like super glue or a specific paint pot instead of putting in a ton of effort to salvage it. Unless it's no longer made, like specific old citadel paints. But there's a lot of analogs so, well, still not worth the effort to me.
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Aug 9, 2021 15:25
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Verisimilidude posted:Do yourself a favor and get some Liquitex Acrylic Gouache white. It's like $9 and you get a ton of it, and it works exactly the same as all other acrylic paints. It's also insanely matte. I followed this advice. Would buy again!  First Ork done. Totally screwed up the basing but I salvaged it a little bit so lesson learned. Didn't want to overspray white onto the skin and the acrylic gouache handled the white just fine. Also played around a little bit with oils and they really are super easy to get nice blends out of. Brush management and clean up is annoying though.
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Aug 9, 2021 18:33
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Isn't UV resin highly toxic?
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Aug 9, 2021 18:41
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BULBASAUR posted:Isn't UV resin highly toxic? Most resins are, yeah, it's kinda their thing
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Aug 9, 2021 18:46
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then wouldn't it be best to use super glue or pin something instead of using UV resin?
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Aug 9, 2021 18:49
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Yeah, I both figuratively and very literally wouldn't touch UV resin.
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Aug 9, 2021 18:59
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E: oops don't listen to me, UV resin seems much worse than polyurethane resin.
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Aug 9, 2021 19:00
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I'm going to preface this with read your MSDS for the resin you are using, wear gloves, safety glasses and don't huff uncured resin but most resins aren't that bad compared to household cleaners. The big thing that gives it Health 2 warning is if you ingest it and if you need to learn about not eating unknown things. Again treat resin (and all chemicals) with a healthy amount of respect, cover exposed skin and most importantly protect your eyes. Because nothing sucks worse that trying to fumble your way to the bathroom when you are in pain and can't see.
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Aug 9, 2021 20:25
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TheDiceMustRoll fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Aug 9, 2021 |
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Aug 9, 2021 21:07
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I want to get started and practice but I don't want do jump into it with sets that are pricey. Are there cheap/bulk miniature sets that I can try different techniques on? Ultimately I'd like do do cartoonish/vibrant miniatures for Blood Bowl. I've got a good deal on a decent airbrush off amazon a few years ago but it's never been used. I'm thinking a can of white/black rustoleum + glazing would be an easier starting point than buying a compressor, hoses and setting up a ventilation or filtration system.
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Aug 9, 2021 21:15
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DevCore posted:I want to get started and practice but I don't want do jump into it with sets that are pricey. Airbrushing is "I really like this poo poo, time to go balls deep and spend mucho dollars on it." level of commitment. Cheap minis can usually be purchased from resellers, or you can just grab dollar store toys, strip the paint off and then go buck wild.
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Aug 9, 2021 21:24
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I'm in this picture and I don't like it.
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Aug 9, 2021 21:35
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PoptartsNinja posted:I'm in this picture and I don't like it. That's a good half of the replies, too.
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Aug 9, 2021 21:38
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MasterBuilder posted:I'm going to preface this with read your MSDS for the resin you are using, wear gloves, safety glasses and don't huff uncured resin but most resins aren't that bad compared to household cleaners. The big thing that gives it Health 2 warning is if you ingest it and if you need to learn about not eating unknown things. Again treat resin (and all chemicals) with a healthy amount of respect, cover exposed skin and most importantly protect your eyes. Because nothing sucks worse that trying to fumble your way to the bathroom when you are in pain and can't see. Yeah polyurethane resin is what I have experience with. In liquid form it tends to give your hands rashes when you work with it a lot, even when wearing gloves. That's pretty much it. The really no-no part is sanding the cured product without a mask and inhaling that dust, which is very bad in the long run.
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Aug 9, 2021 21:39
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DevCore posted:I want to get started and practice but I don't want do jump into it with sets that are pricey. Reaper has a lot of decent and cheap minis. Be careful of their Bones line; they're lower quality but even cheaper and require some extra prep work. Can also check eBay for Lots of whatever models. Good chance to learn how to strip minis too.
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Aug 9, 2021 21:39
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I was following along with the painting suggestion for space wolves I primed them all corax white, cause, that's what I have it tells me base them in the fang, so, I do it then says to use nuln oil, and then layer with fenrisian grey Except, the models all over are fenrisian grey with no The Fang to be seen. So shouldn't the instructions/suggestions be to prime in The Fang and then Fenrisian Grey and then Nuln Oil? Now it looks like crap and at this point even thin layers are too many layers of paint, arghhh
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Aug 9, 2021 21:52
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