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Cpt.Wacky posted:Remember that Moroccan guy that made the chess pieces with a bow lathe and his feet? I get a cramp in my foot just watching that.
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Apr 23, 2012 20:45
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I cringed every time he swung that hammer. Talk about feeling inadequate.
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Apr 24, 2012 02:07
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Pretty amazing video. I'm curious why his arms don't work. I'd buy one of his benches.
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Apr 24, 2012 02:59
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Here's a bowl that cracked and warped pretty badly during drying. Too out of round to return so I left it oval, filled the crack with malachite and did my usual sanding process made quite a bit longer by the ovoid nature of the turning. I think it was worth trying to save.  
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Apr 24, 2012 22:15
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Wooden acoustic alarm clock. http://youtu.be/NMA1P-kNZ2I
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Apr 25, 2012 02:06
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Phew. After reading for several months I've finally caught up with the thread. Now I guess I have to actually make something instead of just reading about everyone else's projects. Hey Triangle NC woodworking Goons! There seem to be a bunch of you in this thread.
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Apr 25, 2012 19:53
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wormil posted:Wooden acoustic alarm clock. Welp, I guess I just found out what I'm going to replace the doorbell with at the house I'm buying. 
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Apr 25, 2012 21:21
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Bad Munki posted:Welp, I guess I just found out what I'm going to replace the doorbell with at the house I'm buying. Good idea, it seems like a better application and you could make it larger so the notes could be in a lower octave. Does anyone know what kind of motor does the strumming?
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Apr 25, 2012 21:37
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Elston Gunn posted:Good idea, it seems like a better application and you could make it larger so the notes could be in a lower octave. Does anyone know what kind of motor does the strumming? Shouldn't be too hard to reverse engineer, something with a simple back and forth motion. Alternately, you could build a door harp with some kind of motorized cam for chiming the strings. My skills are in wood, not in engineering/electronics though. This game me another thought, I've been wanting to build a door harp and a whirligig thing, should be easy to combine the two. Harriet Tubgirl posted:Hey Triangle NC woodworking Goons! There seem to be a bunch of you in this thread. 
wormil fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Apr 26, 2012 |
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Apr 26, 2012 00:01
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Elston Gunn posted:Good idea, it seems like a better application and you could make it larger so the notes could be in a lower octave. Does anyone know what kind of motor does the strumming? I think a bit of stiff leather on an oscillator or linear actuator of some sort would strum rather nicely. Alternately, just put a solenoid on each of the strings. Bonus then is you could actually have it play different tunes. This is so happening. Heck, hook it up to your phone or whatever so that it announces your arrival/departure with a theme song.
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Apr 26, 2012 00:09
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While you're at it install a pickup and a pocket amp and have it play Sabbath in the morning.
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Apr 26, 2012 16:02
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Combining the aeolian harp idea and the doorbell/alarm idea, how about having the strings mounted on an "aeolian spool" with a small motor to spin it up? I need to learn SketchUp, but this gives the general idea.It would need to be a little bigger than the alarm clock shown before, but could probably have anywhere from 8 inches long to whatever, size-wise. Bonus points for designing a screw/fins/blades into the axle to generate more air movement, or baffles/louvers to do the same, if it was semi-enclosed. As an alarm clock, I guess some people may not want to awake to a haunting, otherworldly moan. But as a doorbell, hearing a poltergeist in the house might deter kids selling magazines.
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Apr 26, 2012 16:07
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I've been meaning to pick up a junk jigsaw, scroll saw, or Sawzall to gut out and use the parts to make a mini paint mixer for 1oz jars of model paint. Seems like something like that could also be used to make a reciprocating strummer for a guitar string doorbell.
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Apr 26, 2012 18:08
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Harriet Tubgirl posted:Combining the aeolian harp idea and the doorbell/alarm idea, how about having the strings mounted on an "aeolian spool" with a small motor to spin it up? I think the amount of speed to get something like that to sing would be really ridiculous. Such devices are popular in your typical science classroom, and they usually have a radius of >12", and spin at several hundred rpm. The reason an aeolian harp doesn't need as much speed is because it has a soundbox which the strings are connected to via a bridge, which transfers their vibrations. Without that connection, you need to vibrate the strings much more aggressively. With even a moderately small spool like that, I suspect you'd be aiming for several thousand rpm, which means hooking it up to a router motor or something. Admittedly, a router motor driving your "doorbell" would be loving awesome, but I'm not sure it'd make for a very practical application. Best bet is still likely to be a strumming mechanism of some sort.
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Apr 26, 2012 19:40
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SkunkDuster posted:I've been meaning to pick up a junk jigsaw, scroll saw, or Sawzall to gut out and use the parts to make a mini paint mixer for 1oz jars of model paint. Seems like something like that could also be used to make a reciprocating strummer for a guitar string doorbell. You're right, shake you paint with a recriprocating tool, don't do it the way I did it. Beats the crap out of your drill. Paint Shaker 2.0 will be a sawzall. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rghwVm0ruCs&feature=g-all-u iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Apr 26, 2012 |
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Apr 26, 2012 21:07
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Sup goons with wood. I am in the process of restoring an old park bench. The arm rests are old old wood which is worn and busted. Each of the rests I have have split down similar lines, like whats in the picture. I need to know the best way to stick these back together. I first thought I would just glue them, but I'm thinking they're going to need to be stronger than that. Is this an appropriate place for dowels? The wood is 3/4" thick. Open to good suggestions here. Thanks. 
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Apr 26, 2012 23:16
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Wood glue is pretty strong, stronger than wood. Titebond III holding strength is like 3000psi. But dowels or biscuits wouldn't hurt.
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Apr 27, 2012 00:56
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mds2 posted:Wood glue is pretty strong, stronger than wood. Titebond III holding strength is like 3000psi. But dowels or biscuits wouldn't hurt. almost verbatim what I was going to say.
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Apr 27, 2012 03:26
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SkunkDuster posted:... junk jigsaw... Seems like something like that could also be used to make a reciprocating strummer for a guitar string doorbell. Seems like it would be easier to just make a simple gear and lever that would turn rotary motion into reciprocating motion. http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/mechanics/How-To/Mechanical-Movements-Part-5.html
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Apr 27, 2012 03:26
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http://www.mekanizmalar.com/menu_linkage.html This is a great site to help visualize mechanics, especially for DIY stuff where you have an idea what motion/input/output you want, but can't figure how to do so in an "easy" way with an efficient design. Go through the different animation groups on the left, with all the designs they have there is no end to the amazing gizmos you could tinker up.
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Apr 27, 2012 17:18
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Not necessarily "wood" but thought you guys would enjoy this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UoxJubwVYI
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Apr 27, 2012 20:42
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Kinda want to try the jawbreaker thing. I was given some wood yesterday. Not sure what it is, asked on SMC forum and it's a tie between elm and honey locust.     
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Apr 30, 2012 04:06
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Was trimming a tree and kept this for a small project (like you can't guess). Already peeled the bark and had it drying for a few weeks. Click here to view the full image The wind harp is nearly done. Need to mount the bridges. Choices are: screws, glue, or glue + biscuits. I prefer not to have screws showing so I'm leaning toward glue + biscuits as I'm not sure glue alone will be strong enough on a cross grain joint.
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Apr 30, 2012 09:45
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ChaoticSeven posted:Kinda want to try the jawbreaker thing. I would go with elm after looking at the picture of the bark on SMC. You can narrow it down if you break off a chunk of the bark and look at the cross-section. American elm has an alternating light/dark pattern and slippery elm is all dark.
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Apr 30, 2012 15:23
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wormil posted:The wind harp is nearly done. Need to mount the bridges. Choices are: screws, glue, or glue + biscuits. I prefer not to have screws showing so I'm leaning toward glue + biscuits as I'm not sure glue alone will be strong enough on a cross grain joint. Wait, for the bridge? Why are you permanently mounting that at all? In all the stringed instruments I can think of (as well as my own wind harp and other wind harps I've seen) it's the tension of the strings that holds the bridge in place, nothing else. DEFINITELY don't use screws, and biscuits would dampen the vibrations...are you perhaps actually referring to some part of the harp other than the bridge? If your bridge is thick and heavy enough for screws or biscuits, I have to assume you're doing something wrong... 
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Apr 30, 2012 15:28
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Bad Munki posted:Wait, for the bridge? Why are you permanently mounting that at all? In all the stringed instruments I can think of (as well as my own wind harp and other wind harps I've seen) it's the tension of the strings that holds the bridge in place, nothing else. DEFINITELY don't use screws, and biscuits would dampen the vibrations...are you perhaps actually referring to some part of the harp other than the bridge? If your bridge is thick and heavy enough for screws or biscuits, I have to assume you're doing something wrong... Bridges mean different things on different instruments, for a violin it is a piece of wood held onto the body the tension of the strings which transfers vibrations For an acoustic guitar the bridge is glued to the body and the bridge pins are held by tension on the wire, not the entire bridge itself. 
MarshallX fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Apr 30, 2012 |
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Apr 30, 2012 18:14
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Bad Munki posted:In all the stringed instruments I can think of (as well as my own wind harp and other wind harps I've seen) it's the tension of the strings that holds the bridge in place, nothing else. DEFINITELY don't use screws, and biscuits would dampen the vibrations...are you perhaps actually referring to some part of the harp other than the bridge? If your bridge is thick and heavy enough for screws or biscuits, I have to assume you're doing something wrong... I'm not sure about other stringed instruments but guitar bridges are glued or otherwise attached at least on the two Gibson acoustics we've owned. But if it doesn't need to be permanently attached that certainly makes it much easier. e: f;b I will try it just sitting there and see how it works out; and yeah, the bridges I made are a bit beefy, about 1x3/4 inches with a simple ogee routed profile. wormil fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Apr 30, 2012 |
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Apr 30, 2012 18:33
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In the case of a guitar, I think the only reason the bridge (it bugs me that the saddle on a guitar is--more or less--what a bridge is everywhere else...) on a guitar is fixed that way is because there's no pin block or other structure to secure the pins. I'm not sure how you built your harp but if you have an internal pin block, you definitely don't need/want a guitar-style bridge/saddle. If your pins are directly mounted to the sound board then yeah, I suppose you'd need to do it guitar-style. But if your pins are mounted past the edge of the vibrating portion of the sound board (i.e. a pin block inside the body) then just a super-light-weight bridge would do just fine and probably transfer sound better to the sound board. In my case, I put a nice big pin block inside the body of the instrument, one at each end. The pins go through the sound board and into the block, and then there's just a lightweight bridge (some thin scrap maple I had lying around) to lift the strings off and transfer vibrations to the board. Tunes like a zither. Are you building yours more like a guitar, or more like a zither?  e: herp derp "all the stringed instruments I can think of" and I can't think of a guitar  But still! The way it looks to me is that on a guitar, the bridge is less its own piece and is actually an integral part of the soundboard, while the saddle is the "actual" bridge and is not attached except by string tension. Is what I meant to say, anyhow.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Apr 30, 2012 |
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Apr 30, 2012 19:07
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I think I will go back and redesign the bridges. I'll use what I have for now but after reading up this morning I don't think they will be ideal. Originally I planned to use zither pins on the ends with the strings being held off the corner by the bridge so I didn't include a pin block but I might be able to mount the pins into the top since my sides are 3/4" material. I built this one out of scraps laying around the shop because I assumed it would be a learning experience and not the ultimate instrument. The sides are 3/4" birch ply left over from some cabinets, the top is 1/8" Lauan salvaged from an old door, so even if it's a miserable failure all I've lost is time. I'm tempted to just stick a bolt under the strings for a bridge like they do on cigar box guitars.
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Apr 30, 2012 19:54
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Post some pictures of what you have at the moment? I'm curious. I'm excited that in a month I'll be moving into a place with some proper sash windows, so I can build some harps specifically to fit them. My house will drive everyone but me insane.
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Apr 30, 2012 21:23
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I thought I had pics on my phone but they aren't there so I'll snap some here in a bit. The funny thing is, I'm not even particularly fond of the sound I've heard on videos so far, nor does the harp fit in any window, it's just more of an experiment for me. I've long considered making instruments and I guess this is sticking my toe in the water.
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Apr 30, 2012 22:22
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Yeah, the sound is hit or miss depending on who you ask. I love it, my wife hates it. Although to be fair, the high-pitched shrill ones drive me nuts too. The really full-sounding deep ones kick rear end. The great thing is, though, if it sounds horrible (even by the wind harp standard) you can just tell people "Yeah it's supposed to sound that way!" and nobody will be able to claim otherwise.
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May 1, 2012 00:23
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That's one reason I made it so big (48x12x6) and bought heavy line for strings, I want a deeper sound. Pics, before and after a coat of wipe-on poly (actually a 2nd coat on the top). The bridges are just sitting there.   edited for smaller pics wormil fucked around with this message at 03:50 on May 1, 2012 |
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May 1, 2012 03:44
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Okay, so that's more or less what I expected. Like we were talking about, the other option is to put a pin block inside. Since your sides are thick enough (3/4" you said? Should be fine.) it shouldn't matter because you can just use the wall as a block and drill pins into that if you so desire. Here's what I did, there's a pretty meaty block inside the box at each end and I just drove the pins into those.  After that, I just put the strings straight across and stuck a bridge under each end (out past the pin block, of course.) Also, I was excited about the piece I found for the sound board.   My only complaint is that I should have aligned the grain a little better because it makes the rosette look like it's off-angle.
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May 1, 2012 04:04
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If I like this one, I might end up building another that I can leave outdoors. I saw one combined with a wind vane. Dumb question, but how do those zither pins work exactly? You wind the string then pound them in and tighten?
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May 1, 2012 06:01
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Technically, they're threaded, although the threads are so fine and not necessarily continuous to the point where I'd call them "slightly knurled in a generally spiraling pattern." You drive them in like a screw. Lots of friction, they hold super well, and my wrist was dead for a day or so after driving them all in with the tuning key. Allegedly you can knock them in to get them most of the way there but I was afraid of splitting something and wanted to go slower. Once they're in, then you string them up. Just through the hole and around the post a couple times. I've just got lovely fishing line on mine right now but since it's been all HarpTalk in here, I think I might go get some nice thick steel-wound strings today and redo it. Supposedly the nylon core plus the steel wind gives it a very large cross section with minimal weight, leading to much easier vibration, meaning it takes less wind to get the harp to sound. I'll post a trip report later on.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 15:17 on May 1, 2012 |
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May 1, 2012 15:15
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Guess I'll have to make a wind harp at some point. I want mine to sound deeper than usual though. Experimenting with rim treatments. Bradford Pear   Mulberry   
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May 2, 2012 17:58
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A How It's Made episode featured harps. The guy used a piece of wood with a hole through it as a depth guide for the zither pins and just pounded them in with a hammer, holes predrilled of course. If it's good enough for the pros then I'm just going to hammer them in especially after Bad Munki posted:...my wrist was dead for a day or so after...
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May 2, 2012 23:04
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To be fair, the tuning key I was using to drive them in has basically no leverage. And I wasn't sure of the hole size, either, so I was afraid I might have made them too small. But yeah, if you're sure on the rest, driving them straight in is the way to go. For my next harp, I'll do exactly that.
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May 2, 2012 23:25
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I've been making laser engraved pool table markers lately, they're a substitute for putting quarters on the table since everyone seems to forget who's who once there's too many up. I had someone ask for two maple ones last night, and they want one of them to be pink. Paint is out of the question, so I'm looking for a pink dye or stain. I'll also be putting a coat of laquer over the top, if that makes a difference. Anyone know of a product that will stain maple pink?
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May 3, 2012 20:48
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