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Thanks. I actually figured it was normal a few seconds after I made the post, it just freaked me out to see blue stuff coming out. Oh no my photo melted right off the film 
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Jun 18, 2010 01:44
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| # ? May 31, 2024 13:04 |
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At high concentrations, Rodinal will melt the image off your negatives. 
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Jun 18, 2010 01:52
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4:20 drink rodinal all day
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Jun 18, 2010 02:10
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is go
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This last roll I put through the HC-110 not looking too promising. Good portion of my images are near black which means they're way blown out. I hope I just hosed up developing time or my HC110 went bad or something, and not that my 645 is metering incorrectly  Will wait until everything dries to render verdict though.
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Jun 18, 2010 02:17
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Martytoof posted:This last roll I put through the HC-110 not looking too promising. Good portion of my images are near black which means they're way blown out. I hope I just hosed up developing time or my HC110 went bad or something, and not that my 645 is metering incorrectly I've had the same sinking feeling before when taking film out of the rinse. Then as it dried, the photo automagically appeared. Hopefully yours is fine.
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Jun 18, 2010 02:34
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Any recommendations for good 35mm reels? The $10 stainless steel one I got from B&H is literally unusable 
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Jun 18, 2010 03:27
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Real Life posted:Any recommendations for good 35mm reels? The $10 stainless steel one I got from B&H is literally unusable Hewes, Hewes or Hewes. Worth the price in aggravation saved.
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Jun 18, 2010 03:48
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Yeah, I'm also not too happy with my AP tank. The lid only seems to be watertight about 50% of the time and the rest of the time it leaks small droplets of liquid when I agitate. That's OK when working with developer, but I'd rather my hands didn't smell like fixer the rest of the day 
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Jun 18, 2010 03:51
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ryangs posted:all I've found is a place that charges $25/hour for access to their Nikon film scanner. Any suggestions? I'm also going to watch Craigslist for an affordable flatbed with neg capability. Depending on how you shoot/develop/print, $25/hr isn't a terrible deal while you are waiting for a scanner. It isn't uncommon to pay $10/frame for high resolution scans at a lab. If you collect work and take a lot at a time, and know before you start what/how you want to scan, you can make the 25/hr worth your time
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Jun 18, 2010 03:54
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ryangs posted:Now I have to figure out where or how to scan it. You'd think there would be plenty of film scanners (or flatbeds with adapters) available to the public around LA, but so far all I've found is a place that charges $25/hour for access to their Nikon film scanner. Any suggestions? I'm also going to watch Craigslist for an affordable flatbed with neg capability. I'd just get an Epson V500 for $100-125 online and be done with it, if you're just looking to share online or print 8x10's.
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Jun 18, 2010 04:00
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RustedChrome posted:Then I looked at the gallery of a person who commented on my new acquisition and saw that he got one that looks even nicer for only $5 at somebody's yard sale. Not quite a $5 Leica, but yesterday I found a Rollei 35 at a thrift store for $8. Sometimes it pays to wade through the crappy vivitar P&S in the cheap camera bin. 
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Jun 18, 2010 06:15
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Martytoof posted:This last roll I put through the HC-110 not looking too promising. Good portion of my images are near black which means they're way blown out. I hope I just hosed up developing time or my HC110 went bad or something, and not that my 645 is metering incorrectly I've had poo poo luck over 2-3 rolls of acros and HC-110. They've been progressively worse and I'm having a hard time finding a sweet spot with dilution, time, temp What's worse is my V500 is starting to put really obvious lines in scans 
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Jun 18, 2010 06:20
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Martytoof posted:Very nice. Maybe I missed it, but what film were you using? It was a Kodak Tri-X 100. First time I've shot with non-400 black and white, which was pretty fun.
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Jun 18, 2010 11:13
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ryangs posted:
I just bought an Epson V600 from amazon for roughly 200 bucks. I have been pretty happy with it so far. I also bought Silverfast Ai because Epson's software sucks. Still for a rough total of 300 dollars I have a pretty decent set up to scan 120.
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Jun 18, 2010 11:50
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gently caress! I just realized I used the Delta 400 @ 1600 time instead of @ 400 I thought 12 minutes was a little long but honestly I hadn't developed a roll in months so I figured maybe I just remembered incorrectly so I didn't doublecheck. Oh well, at least I know what I did wrong Edit: I'm trying to save some of these photos and VueScan is seriously killing me. When I do a preview scan, it scans the preview with a somewhat acceptable white level momentarily, then automatically cranks everything up to ridiculous levels where everything is blown out. I want to say that the highlights aren't completely lost based on the preview scan, but nothing I do in VueScan will bring the highlights down
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Jun 18, 2010 |
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Jun 18, 2010 18:01
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Sushi in Yiddish posted:It was a Kodak Tri-X 100. First time I've shot with non-400 black and white, which was pretty fun. Do you mean t-max 100, or plus-x? Tri-x is only in 400 speed.
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Jun 18, 2010 18:49
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Intriguing to hear that film scanners can be had at a decent price...Stregone posted:Do you mean t-max 100, or plus-x? Tri-x is only in 400 speed.
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Jun 18, 2010 20:10
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Stregone posted:Do you mean t-max 100, or plus-x? Tri-x is only in 400 speed. It comes in 320 as well, though I'm not exactly clear on why you'd want the 320. Anyone here know?
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Jun 18, 2010 20:53
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HPL posted:It comes in 320 as well, though I'm not exactly clear on why you'd want the 320. Anyone here know? Tri-x 320 is an entirely different film from the 400, it reacts differently, compresses shadows a bit but reacts better in the midtones and highlights.
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Jun 18, 2010 21:00
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Reichstag posted:Tri-x 320 is an entirely different film from the 400, it reacts differently, compresses shadows a bit but reacts better in the midtones and highlights. I just checked around and it looks like they don't make Tri-X 320 any more. Too bad. I wanted to try some.
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Jun 18, 2010 21:26
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I bought some like 2 months ago... Though as far as I know it's only available in 120.
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Jun 19, 2010 00:27
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dunno posted:I bought some like 2 months ago... Though as far as I know it's only available in 120. And large format.
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Jun 19, 2010 00:38
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from the original guide, what needs to be done differently with 120mm? I was kind of confused how you diluted the developer, I understand you used 300ml cause the tank fills 290ml, but how much would I use for 120mm film? edit: nevermind, I get it now. but another question, where do I dump the chemicals? swagger like us fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jun 19, 2010 |
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Jun 19, 2010 03:59
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swagger like us posted:from the original guide, what needs to be done differently with 120mm? I was kind of confused how you diluted the developer, I understand you used 300ml cause the tank fills 290ml, but how much would I use for 120mm film? Developer can be dumped down the drain. Fixer can be reused for a good long time depending on how often you develop, but if you want to get rid of it you should take it to a local school that has a film program or take it to some kind of chemical disposal site. Your local dump might have one.
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Jun 19, 2010 04:35
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I just developed four rolls and two of them I forgot to wash in my photoflo, my god there bad. Debating whether to wash them again tomorrow or just photoshop the marks out. I'm not exactly great with keeping the marks down any way, usually I get away with them in photoshop but these are probably going in a book so looks like I might aswell wash them again. Film, your annoying, but that is why I love you.     1600 Neopan at something like 15th, pretty impressed with my focusing.
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Jun 20, 2010 21:55
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It'll probably be faster to re-wash them.
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Jun 20, 2010 22:14
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fronkpies posted:I just developed four rolls and two of them I forgot to wash in my photoflo, my god there bad. Debating whether to wash them again tomorrow or just photoshop the marks out. "Will the members of the jury please observe the photographs printed on this panel, hereafter referred to as Exhibit C..."
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Jun 20, 2010 22:15
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HPL posted:It'll probably be faster to re-wash them. I think that's what I'm going to do, problem is, I've already cut them into strips of six. A bowl of water with photo-flo will be alright to wash them in I'm guessing? orange lime posted:"Will the members of the jury please observe the photographs printed on this panel, hereafter referred to as Exhibit C..." If anyone asks, It was all staged. The battery on my A1 ran out just as the person in the last two photos went down the stairs into the kitchen, sat on a chair, vomited, tried to stops his nose from pouring blood then passed out. Terrible stuff.
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Jun 20, 2010 22:24
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RustedChrome posted:Hewes, Hewes or Hewes. Worth the price in aggravation saved. I took your advice and picked one up...and wow. It's actually impossible to screw up with this. And it weighs like three times as much as my B&H $9.99 one. Thanks!
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Jun 22, 2010 21:18
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At the weekend my girlfriend wanted to attend a market which had some dealers who sell the Edwardian-era photographic postcards that she collects. Most of these pictures are of actresses, all of whom are holding the most twee and innocent poses. As we looked through them I found myself wondering about what sort of cameras (and film and exposure etc) were employed for taking such photos. There were other stalls there, including a couple selling old cameras. Obviously I had a look at those, just out of interest... I bought an Agfa Billy Record(?) which has the usual stuck focus ring - which will give me something to do during the winter (thinking ahead, see?) but otherwise is in great condition. Also, I got a nearly mint boxed Zeiss Ikon Nettar. I've already loaded it with some Adox CHS 50. Finally, there was a Bencini Koroll 24 S that I got because I couldn't decide if it looks as ugly as sin or really wonderful (back-up excuse: it's a half frame 120 and I don't have one of those) that needs recovered or even stripped down to the aluminium. As I was paying for them I felt a little guilty. But I don't smoke or drink anymore and never spend much money on myself. So bollocks to the guilt. Then we had lunch. It was all good.
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Jun 23, 2010 13:51
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 Home-scanned expired Kodachrome. I used a flashlight, it was awesome.    
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Jun 24, 2010 00:29
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What are your guys' thoughts on ever-ready cases? I have several old cases that are not doing well, and I'm not sure it's worth it to fix them especially if it encourages mold. However, several of these cameras lack lens caps or lugs to attach straps to, which makes them more difficult to use.
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Jun 24, 2010 01:39
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pwn posted:
Goddamn Kodachrome owns.
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Jun 24, 2010 04:19
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the first time my new zeiss ikon has seen the light of day has been when i was really drunk and missed focus on half the shots. drat it. don't remember the exact film, some colour kodak 400, expired at least 6 years.     4am, last shot: 
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Jun 24, 2010 06:40
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Can anyone recommend a good book or site to learn everything about developing B&W film? Stuff like what different developer concentrations do and how long to leave fixer in etc. The more comprehensive the better!
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Jun 25, 2010 01:28
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Moist von Lipwig posted:Can anyone recommend a good book or site to learn everything about developing B&W film? Stuff like what different developer concentrations do and how long to leave fixer in etc. The more comprehensive the better! The most comprehensive resource on developing black and white negatives is called, unimaginatively, The Negative. It's also where Adams introduces the Zone System. It is a Very Good Read.
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Jun 25, 2010 01:58
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Moist von Lipwig posted:Can anyone recommend a good book or site to learn everything about developing B&W film? Stuff like what different developer concentrations do and how long to leave fixer in etc. The more comprehensive the better! 8th samurai does a pretty good write-up in this thread. I'll rehash in brief since I'm sitting around with nothing better to do (until the new Futurama premiere in  )1) In a dark room/changing bag, use a bottle opener to pop the top off of the film cannister. Load it on the reel (there are Youtube videos that demonstrate this in daylight) and put the reel in the tank. May want to practice this a few times with a junk roll until you get comfortable with it. 2) Pour in the developer. There are many; HC-110 is popular among Dorkroom users, you'll need a little syringe or something to measure it out in the small quantities needed, as it's pretty dilute. I started with D-76 stock (undiluted, reuseable), but now use HC-110. Consult the Massive Dev Chart for times/temperatures for the various films and what speed you rated it at when you shot. Generally speaking, you don't really need a water bath to keep it at temperature. Too hot and the developer will overdevelop the film, too cold and it will underdevelop, but it's B&W so you have a fair amount of wiggle room. Generally you want it a little cooler than room temperature; I usually mix the developer and put it in the freezer while I go into the darkroom to load the reels, by the time I'm done it's usually near the right temperature. You'll want a reasonably accurate thermometer, I prefer the bulb and stem type like this:  3) Agitate as needed over the time you're developing the film. I do 2 gentle inversions every 60 seconds, with a good rap or two on the counter at the end to dislodge any air bubbles. Everyone has their own way of doing it. With stand development (extremely diluted developer, 1 hour+ development times) you only agitate a couple of times. [Note: once the developer has done its job, the film is basically insensitive to light, although you still want to keep it in the tank/in the dark to be safe] 4) After that's done, pour the developer out and fill the tank with stop bath. Water is fine. Agitate pretty well for 2 minutes or so (I've heard 1 is okay, but more doesn't hurt. What you're doing here is stopping the action of any remaining developer on the film) 5) Pour out the stop/water. 6) Pour in fixer. This basically "sets" the results, and makes the emulsion less prone to scratching/rubbing off. I agitate similar to how I do development, dunno how necessary this is. I do about 5-8 minutes since I don't use Rapid Fix, depending on how recently I mixed it and how heavily it's been used. Fixer is re-usable and can be replenished, but DO NOT pour it down the drain as it picks up silver from the film and is generally not a nice thing to do to a water supply. It's not like it's the world will end if you do, but you should find a proper place to dispose of it. Fixer is mildly stinky. 7) Rinse: fill tank with water, agitate it like you're shaking a querulous infant. Pour out, repeat. I usually do 1-2 cycles of this over a couple of minutes, then take the outer lid of the tank and just run water through it from the sink. You're basically removing excess fixer here. 8) Optional, but really helpful: put a minute amount (like 1-2 drops) of Photo-Flo in the tank, gently fill with water. I open the tank and move the reels up and down through the Photo-Flo solution, then remove then and hang the film up to dry. Photo-Flo is a wetting agent and helps prevent streaking and mineral deposits on the emulsion. It's really concentrated and will foam up like crazy if you overdo it/agitate very much. All of this sounds might look like a lot, but developing B&W is really isn't that difficult at all. Just try it out with some "meh" test shots and see how you like your results. Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jun 25, 2010 |
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Jun 25, 2010 02:37
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Good writeup Rhombus! It's pretty much how I've been doing it except for the rinse. I have been keeping it under running water for 10 minutes as advised by MDC. Do you think this is overkill and it would be fine doing it your way instead? As for loading the reels, it really is a good idea to sacrifice a roll of film and practice. I did it with eyes open so I could get an grasp on what the reel was doing. After that I'd just load it over and over as I watched TV, making sure not to look at what my hands were doing until I could load it without thinking. The hardest part for me is cutting the leader straight on the film, I was always getting it diagonal by one or two sprocket holes. This will make loading the reel by touch a nightmare. Now I just make sure to leave/pull out the end of the film so I can cut it before I put it in the changing bag.
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Jun 25, 2010 04:14
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RustedChrome posted:The hardest part for me is cutting the leader straight on the film, I was always getting it diagonal by one or two sprocket holes. This will make loading the reel by touch a nightmare. Now I just make sure to leave/pull out the end of the film so I can cut it before I put it in the changing bag. While leaving the leader out is the easiest solution, the way I cut them off in the dark is to feel for two opposing sprocket holes and cut from one to the other.
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Jun 25, 2010 04:27
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| # ? May 31, 2024 13:04 |
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Thank you so much for this, I actually read 8th Samurai's post for reference but there was a few places I wasn't sure of, this filled them in nicely. Is there a reason people prefer HC-110? I've developed 4 rolls of B&W 120 so far but I haven't had a chance to scan them and check them out yet. Of course they were shot on a Voigtlander Bessa 1 with expired unnamed film for the most part so results aren't expected to be spectacular, but I'm hopeful.
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Jun 25, 2010 05:46
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