|
My roommate has a 1999 Wrangler, 4 cyl, with a soft top and half doors. The plastic windows have become so scratched and dirty that they are just about opaque. For christmas I would like to fix this situation for her. I looked at replacement soft tops, bestop is apparently the gold standard, but I am not sure whether I need to replace the whole soft top or if there is some way to replace just the windows. I found what looks like replacement window kits but they are all tinted and I don't want a tint, nor do I have any idea how to swap out windows. Any advice about the best way to do this would be appreciated.
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2010 21:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 16:28 |
|
|
Crossposting, if anyone is interested a WJ: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2400145&pagenumber=21&perpage=40#post385762667
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2010 21:12
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:I did a bunch of work on my 1997 Cherokee 4.0L 4x4 auto this weekend (new shocks, new steering damper, new throttle position sensor, replaced broken glove box) and now the HVAC door switch doesn't work. Every setting blows air through the defrost vents. Any ideas on what to look for? I found a tiny thin little vacuum line teeing off and heading through the firewall that was cracked. I bought some 5/32" vacuum hose and put it over the two ends of the cracked hose. After this the cruise would work if and only if I had my foot deep in the throttle when activating it. I checked the level of vacuum at the cracked hose and at the little bundle of colored vacuum hoses that helps control the HVAC doors. It was strong under the hood but very weak at the little vacuum hose bundle. So I went and got some 7/64" vacuum hose that fit a lot tighter over the cracked hose segments. The HVAC doors now function as normal. Woo. I suspect the cruise control will work a lot better on the way home as well. I am really stoked about this because driving this thing with no hot air blowing on my feet was quite unpleasant and I know it would have been an issue when the time comes to sell this trucklet. Also, I bent the hook that the latch on the glove box door holds onto and now the glove box opens and shuts like normal. Before it was really tight.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2010 21:17
|
|
|
Leopold Stotch posted:My roommate has a 1999 Wrangler, 4 cyl, with a soft top and half doors. The plastic windows have become so scratched and dirty that they are just about opaque. http://www.quadratec.com/products/11136_XX_PG.htm (fronts only) They aren't too tough to replace, you basically just insert the old window frame into the new fabric. It'll go a lot smoother and easier if the fabric is warmed up a bit first, or at least has been indoors at room temp for a few days. I don't think you can get rear skins without buying an entire replacement top kit though (or a top w/rear only skins). Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Dec 15, 2010 |
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2010 21:54
|
|
|
Try Meguiar's PlastX on the windows first.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2010 22:00
|
|
|
So i've been lurking on this thread, got up from 1 to page 64 so far and will continue to read up to the end. I have seen a jeep in the neighborhood for $2,000 that I don't think I can pass up. Owner says it's a 1999 XJ with 90k miles. Dad owned it before him and recently passed away. Owner is from New York City but the truck is down here in Blacksburg, VA. Took it on a drive today and was wondering a few things, what is a reasonable item to have rust on it and how much/bad. Also when i put it into 4Hi and cut the wheel to the left i get some kickback from the front wheels and am unable to get the same turn radius as i was in 2wd. Also the power windows are only operable from the drivers seat but i think i remember hearing about that problem and it wasn't a hard/bad fix. Rear end looked to be a DANA 35 =/ I'll be selling my '06 Honda civic to get up off the ground and into a 4x4 thankfully. My mom used to have a 96 XJ that i loved so i'm really excited to hear if this is a good purchase or not. **I'll run the VIN later to double check his claims since its got Limited Edition and Sport stickers so i don't know what it should have exactly**
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2010 00:44
|
|
|
If it has the part-time 4WD system the turning is going to be very strange on dry pavement (don't do that). The Cherokee is a unibody truck so rust on any part of the body other than the hood/doors/hatch is "structural". $2000 for a 90k mile XJ sounds like a smoking deal. Dana 35 is lame. Does this XJ have ABS brakes?
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2010 00:58
|
|
|
whocares8310 posted:Also the power windows are only operable from the drivers seat but i think i remember hearing about that problem and it wasn't a hard/bad fix. That's a common problem caused by a bad window lock switch. On my '98 XJ I can sometimes wiggle the switch to get the passenger switches working. I think I posted about that earlier in the thread and I was directed to this post which explains how to fix it. Unfortunately my problem extended beyond that, one of my rear windows doesn't work period. I did some work today: replaced the hatch support struts (the original ones wouldn't hold in cold weather anymore) and also replaced my dying sealed beam headlights with Hella halogen kits. Made a HUGE difference in visibility, and now I can't believe I was able to safely drive with the sealed beams.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2010 01:09
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:Dana 35 is lame. Does this XJ have ABS brakes? I'll agree they are lame, but they are cheap and you can find them everywhere, so sometimes if you carry spares they are not that bad
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2010 01:43
|
|
|
SentinelXS posted:That's a common problem caused by a bad window lock switch. On my '98 XJ I can sometimes wiggle the switch to get the passenger switches working. I think I posted about that earlier in the thread and I was directed to this post which explains how to fix it. Unfortunately my problem extended beyond that, one of my rear windows doesn't work period. Awesome thanks for the link, my '99 XJ has the exact same problem with the driver window lock switch. edit: Actually I have a random question for XJ owners. Does anyone else get a lot of wind noise on the passenger side? It sounds like it's coming in from the passenger front door but I checked all the weather stripping and it seems good. Any known issues there? mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Dec 16, 2010 |
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2010 01:43
|
|
|
whocares8310 posted:Rear end looked to be a DANA 35 =/ Probably isn't a D35. Swapping to an C8.25 isn't hard though. Could be done in 2 hours provided you don't break the upper shock mount bolts.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2010 20:58
|
|
|
Leopold Stotch posted:My roommate has a 1999 Wrangler, 4 cyl, with a soft top and half doors. The plastic windows have become so scratched and dirty that they are just about opaque. Bestop may be the most heavily marketed but there are definitely some serious complaints about their replacement tops on various forums - loose fit, poor stitching, leaks, etc. Pavement Ends is a cheap alternative and I've heard good things about their replacement tops. If the top hardware is worn out though, forget it. Their tops don't have hardware. You might also consider getting her Bestop sliders too. I have a set and I like them a lot compared to the plastic uppers. My only complaint is that wind noise is worse than the plastic uppers due to the drain slots and split windows. They don't flap around though, which is what I hated about the soft uppers, and no loving zippers thank god. If I did it again though I would've just bought full doors. Since I'm probably selling this one, my next toy TJ is coming with full doors and a hard top.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2010 21:20
|
|
|
Its snowing here!!!
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2010 21:28
|
|
|
Bojanglesworth posted:Its snowing here!!! Good, that means you'll keep your shirt on so no one has to see your lovely Lisa Frank owl chestpiece. (I kid, I kid. Jeeps and kickin' rad tattoos 4Lyfe!)
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2010 22:34
|
|
|
Braincloud posted:Good, that means you'll keep your shirt on so no one has to see your lovely Lisa Frank owl chestpiece. hahaha cross thread jokes! Tomorrow I will go outside shirtless and take a picture just to get the whole thread up in arms again.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2010 00:45
|
|
|
Bojanglesworth posted:hahaha cross thread jokes! Tomorrow I will go outside shirtless and take a picture just to get the whole thread up in arms again. Can we start a club? inkedupjeepin.com is available...
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2010 01:34
|
|
|
Braincloud posted:Can we start a club? inkedupjeepin.com is available... how about https://www.dickholesbehatin.org
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2010 02:01
|
|
|
Hey thanks Philip J Fry, InitialDave, and incredibull for your input on plastic windows and soft tops. I'll probably give the Meguiar's PlastX a try and if that doesn't work I'll talk to her about sliders because I know the zipper windows are a pain in the rear end.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2010 15:28
|
|
|
They can be a pain depending on the build quality, (like Steel Horse, which went out of business) but a little bit of white lithium grease once or twice a year on the zipper teeth can make a big difference. Either way, that's some fair change to spend on a roommate. I hope she appreciates it! 
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2010 15:54
|
|
|
I had the fuel filter (driver's side on the frame rail) on my 96 XJ replaced in March because it was leaking. It began to leak again in June, so I took it back to the shop, and they said it was a loose fitting. They tightened it and all was well... until about a month or two ago, because it's leaking slightly again. I'm tired of going to the shop. I plan to pick up a new filter, new piece of rubber hose for the Outlet side, and a couple of new screw clamps for the hose. Is there anything else I should get? Anything to look out for with this job? I've done basic bolt-on mods to my other car (header, exhaust, cat, sway bars, etc) and the mechanics of doing the fuel filter on my XJ look easy enough, but I want to be prepared. Thanks thread.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2010 16:08
|
|
|
I don't own a Jeep but I lurk in this thread hoping to someday own a nice XJ. Saw this on Craigslist and find myself wishing I had $9000 sitting around: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/cto/2103042951.html I know you guys will probably say it's overpriced, but god drat, I love it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2010 01:22
|
|
|
Wamsutta posted:I had the fuel filter (driver's side on the frame rail) on my 96 XJ replaced in March because it was leaking. It began to leak again in June, so I took it back to the shop, and they said it was a loose fitting. They tightened it and all was well... until about a month or two ago, because it's leaking slightly again. I'm tired of going to the shop. Make sure you follow the procedure for venting the fuel line. It'd suck to get a face full of gas when you pull the line off the filter. There are write ups available for this online... Pretty sure there's at least one on naxja. Good luck.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2010 02:34
|
|
|
DropShadow posted:I don't own a Jeep but I lurk in this thread hoping to someday own a nice XJ. Saw this on Craigslist and find myself wishing I had $9000 sitting around: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/cto/2103042951.html haha I actually clicked on reply so I could tell you: My friend bought a 2001 XJ with a long arm kit/other lift components that is equal to 11.5" over stock, on 37's for $6,0000. It is super clean just like that one too. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2010 02:46
|
|
|
Those (the black and the red XJ) are beautiful. I'm on the original suspension at 160k on my 96 XJ. If I wanted to take that as an excuse to upgrade to some kind of mild lift... 2" or 3" or so... what would my best bet be? My Jeep is a daily/crappy weather/poo poo hauler vehicle on OE-spec tires, which are nearly brand new, so I don't really see myself turning it into a crawler. Just want to freshen things up and figure a light lift would be fun.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2010 21:05
|
|
|
When it rains it pours. I have leaking rear axle seals on my 94XJ with the 8.25 rear. That's not a problem, I'm like the dad from A Christmas Story when it comes to changing axles. The problem is that the gear oil has pretty much ruined the shoes on my drum brakes. Did I mention the wheel cylinder is leaking too? Anyways long story short is that drum brakes have always kind of intimidated me. I've never worked on them, but since the economy is dildos and I still dont have a job I'm planning on new shoes and wheel cylinders. How hard is it to work on drums? Any good write ups? Whenever I look at them they always look like a fancy watch. Springs everywhere, and then I pee myself and hyperventilate.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2010 21:46
|
|
|
Wamsutta posted:Those (the black and the red XJ) are beautiful. Old Man Emu lifts are mild and ride well from what I hear. I'd look for a ~2" lift with new rear springs (assuming your stock springs are as flat and crappy as mine were at 150k miles).
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2010 21:50
|
|
|
Wamsutta posted:Those (the black and the red XJ) are beautiful. How much are you looking to drop? I'm a huge fan of Rubicon Express and cant recommend them enough to fellow XJ owners. For what you describe I suggest the RE6020 or RE6025. The only difference is that one comes with complete leaf springs, and the other is an add a leaf system. I'd recommend the full system. They will both fit 31 inch tires with minor fender flare rubbing. Shown here http://www.rubiconexpress.com/SuspensionSystems/Product.aspx?part=RE6025 Any other questions, just let me know.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2010 21:51
|
|
|
Frag Viper posted:When it rains it pours. Drums are fine, just take photos before you start and pay attention to the diagrams. It's easy to get confused on reassembly if you've never done them before. Otherwise, they really just come apart and go back together without a whole lot of issues. Now that I've said they're easy, here's some tips that might make it seem otherwise: - The brake cylinder is easy to replace once you pinch off the brake line. Unbolt the line, two bolts on the backing plate and the cylinder comes out. - Make sure to wear gloves and safety glasses when working on drums. You can launch a spring at your face if you're not careful. - I usually slip springs on/off the anchor pegs with a long thin flathead screwdriver. I have a spring tool but find that it generally sucks and the screwdriver works better, so I don't use it. Getting the springs on/off is all about leverage. If you have super manhands you can get the springs started by hand and slip the screwdriver under the loop ends, then use as a lever against the anchor peg. - The only real special tool I like for drums is a shoe retaining spring tool. With this you can just press and rotate the shoe retaining springs. You can find this in every auto store, less than $5.  - There will be a ton of dust, you should blow it out, and I think you know not to breathe it. Make sure to lubricate the proper points on the backing plate and shoes when reinstalling. Any service manual will explain the lube points. I just use anti-seize as drum lube and it holds up fine. You don't need to use silicone like on some disc brake assemblies. - Make sure to remove the self-adjusting cam, pull it apart and lubricate/clean the inside. It needs to spin freely on its threads. Otherwise, the self-adjust function of the drums won't work. Follow your shop manual during reassembly for the adjustment procedure: you want the adjustment to be tight, then loosen it by hand until the drums easily slip on over the shoes. Assuming that you took care of the cam well enough, do several hard brakes in reverse to activate the adjusting cams. - If the self-adjust cam doesn't click while tightening the adjustment after reassembly, it's worn and needs to be replaced, or you didn't install the cam plate properly and the star gear teeth aren't engaging it. - Self adjusting cam (some call it "star nut"):  - Don't pump the brakes until the entire brake and drum assembly is reassembled. - You may also have to loosen your E-brake cable a bit after doing all of this, or it may end up just being perfect now. Drums are sort of relaxing for me now. Just have a seat next to the each drum with a beer and take it easy. incredibull fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Dec 18, 2010 |
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2010 22:41
|
|
|
My god you're awesome. Thanks for all of that. One more question. Are all drum brakes self adjusting? Edit: This is on a D35 rear end. But the brakes should be the same if im not mistaken. Would this be a good guide to reference? http://www.4x4xplor.com/drum-brakes.html Frag Viper fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Dec 18, 2010 |
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2010 23:44
|
|
|
Every drum brake I've ever worked on has the same self-adjust mechanism. Most drums are Bendix-style design and don't vary a whole lot between manufacturers or axles. D35 drums aren't anything special, they're just small. That guide looks just fine. BTW feel free to cheap out as much as possible on drums. You probably know that the front does most of the work. Can't say that I've ever spent more than $20 on edit and only replaces the drums themselves once since they were past the max diameter. In fact that's another thing - mike out the drums and replace them if they exceed the max diameter printed on them. Drums are cheap. Edit: I never cheap out on disc pads. NAPA Adaptive One pads have been great on my TJ. No warped rotors, and I still have the OEM rotors, resurfaced once due to grooving. incredibull fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Dec 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2010 07:05
|
|
|
Quick question while we're on the topic of brakes... I'm about to change the front and rear pads/discs on my 2005 LJ. I dont have a Haynes, but have done some googling and found this writeup.. http://www.4x4xplor.com/disc-brakes.html The question I have is.. do I need to bleed the whole system when replacing pads/shoes? Can't find a better writeup than this one. I have 4 discs.. which should I replace first for simplest/most efficient job?
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2010 07:35
|
|
|
When replacing pads, bleeding should be done. Has it been done since 2005? If not, you might be 2 or 3 years over due. I read that writeup, and it seems a little off. When you are putting new pads on, if you crack the bleeder screws open it will make pushing the piston back in easier and make it so the old fluid isn't pushed back into the system. The writeup seems to want to bleed, then retract the piston. That doesn't make sense to me. Also, if you remove the old fluid in the reservoir with a turkey baster or baby booger sucker and replace with new fluid, it makes sure new fluid is pumped through the system immediately.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2010 08:04
|
|
|
So I bought a 95 Cherokee Country a few weeks ago. Automatic, 242 transfer case, 130,000 miles, 8.25 axle. Seems to be in good condition aside from the paint. However it has a few quirks I'm trying to work out. It's very hard to get it to shift into full time 4wd; it just goes into part time instead. I've tried shifting it at multiple speeds and in every gear. Only about 1/10 of the time does it actually go into full time. It was a little iffy when I first bought it, but it seems to have gotten worse since I changed the transfer case fluid. This is what I put in it: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...&ci_sku=8020023. I searched for Dexron III on the NAPA website and found this: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=VAR324_0120605421&An=599001+101995+50038+2038004. I went looking for that in the store and couldn't find any. So I showed the clerk the printout of what I wanted and he said the DEX/MERC was the same thing. I checked the part numbers and they did seem to be the same, now I'm wondering if it was the wrong fluid. I also tried adjusting the shifter linkage today, didn't help. Secondly, sometimes it just doesn't... want to go. It takes too much gas to get it moving and when it does start to move it seems to start off with a surge instead of smoothly. This might just be the engine being cold, but I've never seen it this bad on any other car I've driven. A friend of mine said this might be the spark plugs. Any ideas? https://wi.somethingawful.com/c1/c10b56c9e417e26ade4cd7c131f003922e1ac404.jpg
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2010 08:42
|
|
|
Even a clutch-based full-time transfer case shouldn't be that picky about fluid, so long as it's fresh. I think you probably need to keep looking at the linkage even though you say you already adjusted it. The only other thing I can think of is that there might be a problem with the shift fork, but you'd have to crack the case to find out. Have you tried disconnecting the linkage and shifting it by hand? Also if I'm sitting still my NP231 sometimes won't go into 4HI or 4LO unless I let the vehicle roll a couple inches or so. Yours might be in the same boat. It's the first NP transfer case I've ever owned and if this is how they all are I'm not too impressed. My BW1350 in my Explorer shifts as smooth as silk and doesn't even care if you shift into 4LO while moving below 5MPH. incredibull fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Dec 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2010 16:00
|
|
|
incredibull posted:Even a clutch-based full-time transfer case shouldn't be that picky about fluid, so long as it's fresh. Yeah my NP231 is like that too, at least going into 4LO. Going into 4HI is pretty smooth though, I don't think I've ever had it resist that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2010 17:45
|
|
|
SNiPER_Magnum posted:When replacing pads, bleeding should be done. Has it been done since 2005? If not, you might be 2 or 3 years over due. Thanks... I guess my next question is.. do we have a good writeup on jeep brakes, or is it like any other car, and would the best how-to manual be in a Haynes book, maybe? Any links you boys use are appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2010 17:48
|
|
|
WhitedragonBC posted:
I am fairly sure you should have used genuine ATF+4 mopar fluid in that transfer case. Either way, to get the 4WD to shift if it's a little sloppy, try shifting to neutral (the trans not the tcase) while moving and back to drive, for me releasing the tension on the drivetrain like that seems to help. If that fails, stop, put it in reverse and floor it 
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2010 18:29
|
|
|
Jeep brakes are nothing special aside from being woefully inadequate for the vehicles they're attached to, being especially prone to rotor warping as a result. Follow the usual manuals but use good quality ceramic pads to get the best out of these brakes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2010 18:31
|
|
|
dhrusis posted:Thanks... I guess my next question is.. do we have a good writeup on jeep brakes, or is it like any other car, and would the best how-to manual be in a Haynes book, maybe? Any links you boys use are appreciated. Its amazingly simple, at least on my 94 XJ. Every set of disc brakes i've ever worked on have been the same. Remove the tire, unbolt caliper, use a c-clamp to compress the piston and swing them off the rotor, change pads, then reverse. The reason people say to bleed the brakes when doing pads is because when you compress the piston, it will usually blow fluid out the reservoir. Check this out. http://jeepin.com/features/discs Edit: Get the Haynes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2010 23:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 16:28 |
|
|
Caliper compressor is an awesome tool. I hate using C-clamps on calipers.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2010 01:02
|
|