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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Woodworking goons that live in countries where Imperial feet/inches are the norm: have you switched your woodworking to metric? or thought about switching your shop to metric? If so, what weird little frustrating things have you run into as far as most supplies/tooling etc. being nominally imperial? I'm in the middle of doing exactly that right now. (Not a production shop.) I do a lot of 3D printing so millimeters have been sneaking into my brain anyway, and I have a tracksaw and an MFT (whose imperial dimensions are lying liars that lie) so now I am becoming metric-pilled in the wood shop too. Trying to find metric measuring tools in the USA is a stupid stupid chore. Setup blocks are doable, I have found a couple of straightedges that have millimeters at a decent price, and FastCap sells nice tapes, but you end up buying procgen-brand rafter squares, etc. if those are your bag. Or Swanson. And I hate Swanson rafter squares. I have not been able to find a decent double-square or even a nice-enough combination square in metric, either, that's available in the USA. If folks here find them, I'd love recommendations. On the other hand, while you mentioned drill bits and those are likely fully imperial? Your router bits might not be. Nicer and American-made ones probably are, but I 3D printed a 6mm and a 6.25mm fillet and my "quarter inch roundover" bits from a couple of cheapo sets made profiles that fit the 6mm one better than the 6.25mm one. My suspicion is that, much like a lot of things with nominal imperial measurements, the router bits have always been metric and they just didn't tell us. edit: snipe, have more dog 
tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 05:02 on May 11, 2024 |
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May 11, 2024 04:56
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Taylor toolworks has PEC squares in metric. Mostly blemish units so not prohibitively expensive. Ditto metric rulers (but you can always get Shinwa stainless for those). Also have a few of these for tapes https://a.co/d/7IGJrDu Not the best because of the double measures, but useful. deimos fucked around with this message at 05:59 on May 11, 2024 |
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May 11, 2024 05:56
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I was afraid PEC would be people's answer. My 4" and 6" iGaging squares were $45, together. And like, it's woodworking, I don't need sub-micron tolerances and whatever. I used an Empire combination square for years.
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May 11, 2024 15:11
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tracecomplete posted:I'm in the middle of doing exactly that right now. (Not a production shop.) I do a lot of 3D printing so millimeters have been sneaking into my brain anyway, and I have a tracksaw and an MFT (whose imperial dimensions are lying liars that lie) so now I am becoming metric-pilled in the wood shop too. And holy crap yeah Fastcap tapes are amazing. I used 16' stanley ones for forever but the fastcap ones are so easy to read and I love how they have the 16ths numbers alllllll the way down the tape. At first I thought the built in pencil sharpener was a dumb gimmick I would never use but I wind up using it all the time. I got a dorky little belt pouch a few months ago I keep a 6" square, metric/imp 6" rule, sharpie, mechanical pencil, normal pencils, and my tape clipped too and it has save me so much time wandering around looking for any of the above. If only I could permanently attach safety glasses to my body as well.
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May 11, 2024 15:32
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If only I could permanently attach safety glasses to my body as well. edit: also yeah, looks like it's easier to get a replacement iGaging blade that has metric than to buy a new square, good call--thanks edit again: taytools charges $15 more for the iGaging DRO than Idea Engineering. lol and lmao. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 16:46 on May 11, 2024 |
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May 11, 2024 16:23
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tracecomplete posted:. I wear glasses so I'm a bit more slack on the goggles. I spent $40ish on Zenni Rx safety glasses and I'll never go back. I just swap to them when I start doing any work and keep them in their case on a small shelf. I may get another one with all the lens bells and whistles (more scratch protection, anti glare, anti fogging) since I have found myself using it, I bought my first pair cheap just for that purpose: to see if the Rx worked well in that format and to see if I'd use it. So now I can spend a hundo for the fancier lens ones so I can tackle the most minor annoyances with the current ones. Unfortunately the spendy lenses are the ones that are most useful in some of the scenarios where they're vulnerable to permanent damage (booth painting, heavy demo).
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May 11, 2024 16:46
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deimos posted:I spent $40ish on Zenni Rx safety glasses and I'll never go back. I just swap to them when I start doing any work and keep them in their case on a small shelf. I may get another one with all the lens bells and whistles (more scratch protection, anti glare, anti fogging) since I have found myself using it, I bought my first pair cheap just for that purpose: to see if the Rx worked well in that format and to see if I'd use it. So now I can spend a hundo for the fancier lens ones so I can tackle the most minor annoyances with the current ones. Same. Plus when they're horn rim they look cool.
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May 11, 2024 17:36
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deimos posted:I spent $40ish on Zenni Rx safety glasses and I'll never go back. I wish I could do that at a reasonable price - last I tried to use Zenni they didn't work with my fuckin' telescope prescription (-10.5 each eye) and that disqualifies me for basically all their safety glasses. I really should go track down some that work, though.
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May 11, 2024 17:41
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Thanks for the reminder, I've been meaning to get some prescription safety glasses. Way easier than sticking a pair of small glasses inside my safety goggles.
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May 11, 2024 17:43
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tracecomplete posted:I wish I could do that at a reasonable price - last I tried to use Zenni they didn't work with my fuckin' telescope prescription (-10.5 each eye) and that disqualifies me for basically all their safety glasses. I really should go track down some that work, though. I know someone who wears safety goggles professionally and has a prescription that's along those lines and she has bought several pairs of what she calls "stoggles" - but they're not cheap.
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May 11, 2024 18:00
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CommonShore posted:I know someone who wears safety goggles professionally and has a prescription that's along those lines and she has bought several pairs of what she calls "stoggles" - but they're not cheap. It’s not, and that’s why I wear a full face mask when doing nasty stuff - it’s cheaper!
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May 11, 2024 18:47
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Bought a gouge, made a spoon
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May 12, 2024 17:36
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HappyHippo posted:Bought a gouge, made a spoon This looks good. I thought I could do the same but I was wrong. I bought an Aliexpress spoon carving knife which is nice and sharp, but my intention was to use some left over stabilised zebrano and it seems the resin makes it impossible to carve. So I'm using a Dremel with a Kutzall rotary burr.
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May 12, 2024 18:41
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That's a really good-looking spoon, nice work!
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May 12, 2024 20:55
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yeah agreed, I doubt I could make a spoon that nice. good work
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May 12, 2024 21:16
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Thanks A curved scraper really helped even out the bottom after the gouge. I still had to sand but I was able to remove all the tools marks from the gouge first. Turning a burr on a curved scraper seems a lot more difficult. I couldn't get a great finish off it but at least it significantly reduced the amount of sanding and that's a win.
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May 12, 2024 21:49
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My problem with safety glasses is that dust manages to sneak around them and I seem to be more sensitive than most to that (my eyes suck in a variety of ways), so I rarely wear regular safety glasses. I've got 3m googles and the safety glasses with rubber gaskets around the edge which work better though dust still gets in sometimes. Maybe my face is shaped stupid. I bought a full face respirator that does work better (though occasionally somehow something gets in my eye) but they fog up when working hard so I don't like to wear them all the time.
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May 12, 2024 22:00
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I got some DeWalt goggles for that reason, they're comfortable and form a seal around the eyes. The only problem is some condensation does form after wearing them a long time.
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May 12, 2024 22:01
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I found the combo of safety glasses and a dust mask almost always fogs the lenses so the last year or so I've been happily using a face shield for eye protection. I've got one with a knob on the back to adjust the headgear tension, and the shield flips up, which is useful when it's a little dusty and I want to see a fine detail in between cuts etc. I do need to get some replacement plastic for it though, they tend to get scratched up over time. I also always have a spray bottle of slightly soapy water in the shop. I use it to lubricate diamond stones for sharpening, but it's also proved useful for cleaning safety glasses, wetting a wood surface for a few minutes, mildly cleaning sticky stuff off of chisels, etc. Don't go overboard on the soap, I just put a few drops of dish soap into a spray bottle full of water and that works really well to break the surface tension for sharpening and also to give it just a little cleaning power for the other uses.
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May 13, 2024 01:20
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tracecomplete posted:It’s not, and that’s why I wear a full face mask when doing nasty stuff - it’s cheaper!
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May 13, 2024 01:50
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3M full-face respirator is awesome for not fogging and protection.
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May 13, 2024 02:27
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The Trend one with filtered fans seems like it may be helpful as well. (I have a PAPR from welding so I am covered for sanding)
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May 13, 2024 03:08
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So I'm looking to add a fold-down top extension to the back of this thing to get more working surface. The obvious solution of course is to just get some dumb door or piano or whatever hinge to swing the top, and then a ledge thing (technical term) that swings out under that. However, the cabinet lives in a deep nook so to open the extension I'd have to pull it all the way out and put it back in. Are there any fancy hinges out there that can work without direct access like that, maybe something like a euro hinge with self-locking? It'd have to support some weight, but for the use case not a huge amount. The cabinet is about 34 inches deep and the extension will be around 10 or 12
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May 13, 2024 16:51
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dupersaurus posted:So I'm looking to add a fold-down top extension to the back of this thing to get more working surface. The obvious solution of course is to just get some dumb door or piano or whatever hinge to swing the top, and then a ledge thing (technical term) that swings out under that. However, the cabinet lives in a deep nook so to open the extension I'd have to pull it all the way out and put it back in. Are there any fancy hinges out there that can work without direct access like that, maybe something like a euro hinge with self-locking? It'd have to support some weight, but for the use case not a huge amount. https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/6401/011009034.pdf https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-a-Dutch-Draw-Leaf-Dining-Table/
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May 13, 2024 17:22
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There are lots of styles of self-locking shelf brackets, or heavy duty lid stays, that I think would fill what you're trying to do e: I guess you'd still need to be able to reach around and under (  ) to undo it though which might defeat the whole not needing to pull it out thing
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May 13, 2024 17:32
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What kind? Like flip up clear faceshield or a full face clear thing that seals all around? The latter. 3M 6800. It fits my giant stupid face and because the mask directs your breath out, it doesn't fog my glasses. I wear it when working MDF or finishing something oil-based or sprayed. I kinda want a PAPR, but mostly because every May the maples around my yard start loving in my nose and I would like to simply opt out of breathing normal air for a few weeks. Don't really need it for woodworking. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 18:03 on May 13, 2024 |
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May 13, 2024 18:00
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I wanna get some sharpening stones, I know this is a  topic but drat the choices are overwhelming... Basically down to either:Combination 100/320 oilstone and a hard arkansas stone for final honing or Diamond plates but there are a zillion diamond plate sets online ranging from like... $20/set to $200/set?? Any advice?
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May 13, 2024 18:15
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alnilam posted:I wanna get some sharpening stones, I know this is a I would get a coarse diamond plate as a baseline. Dia makes one that is coarse and extra coarse on either side and is fairly flat. I use it to do rough work on any edge that needs it and, more importantly, to flatten my other stones to something close to a reference flatness. After that I'd get a cheap (as a beginner I gouged my water stones a few times) two grit water stone until you're comfortable using them and you can invest on other stones.
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May 13, 2024 18:25
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alnilam posted:I wanna get some sharpening stones, I know this is a I can only speak to what I've personally tried: the first thing I got was one of those $20 sets of diamond stones, plus a strop, glued to a piece of MDF. See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4BEQeW8cdo These worked fine. It's much better than trying to use sandpaper, I got stuff plenty sharp. They're a little small. I also don't know how consistent the higher grit stones are, I've heard that the grit is sometimes contaminated with larger diamonds. Overall I think these are a great starting point. I've since upgraded to a extra coarse DMT (I think that's the grade, it's 320 grit) and a Shapton Glass 1000. I'm a little disappointed in the DMT plate. I know there's a break-in period, but it just doesn't seem to cut very fast after only a short while. It's fine, but I was expecting a little more. The Shapton is extremely nice to use. None of these things are necessary, they're just... nicer? There's something pleasant about using the nicer stones. Diamond plates can be used "dry" but I spray them with windex first. The shapton is a "splash and go," you splash water on it before using it and dry it off when done, no need to soak. I wouldn't get cheap water stones, from everything I've read cheap diamond plates are as good or better and require no flattening or soaking. HappyHippo fucked around with this message at 18:33 on May 13, 2024 |
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May 13, 2024 18:26
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I know you probably want specifics, but get 3 stones in coarse, medium and fine and stick with it. All stones have pros and cons so just buy whatever is in your budget and go from there. The ones you link would be fine, except I think that 2" is too narrow especially if you're doing full size planes, 3" wide is so much nice to work with. FWIW, I have a Fine and X-Fine DMT stones, then I do my final polish with 1u diamond paste on a lapping plate, works for me. I've also never used any other stones so don't really have any comparisons or know what I'm missing out on. I'd say my biggest improvement in sharpening was learning how to regrind a bevel on a grinder. If it takes more than a minute to get a burr I regrind and it keeps my time at the stone really short. Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 18:29 on May 13, 2024 |
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May 13, 2024 18:26
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All I know is, if you sharpen stuff any differently than I do, I'm gonna be real angry about it. May thy chisel chip and shatter.
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May 13, 2024 18:29
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I've bought a lot of different stuff so here's yet another take. 1. Sandpaper in various grits. This is cheap, but you do need a very flat surface to stick them to, and you need to gently caress around with spray adhesive or getting sticky-backed sandpaper, and it does easily rip if you're not quite careful. I was able to start getting very sharp edges using just a range of fine sandpaper when I first started out, and I still have some very fine stuff that is quite useful occasionally when for example I'm dealing with a curved gouge or trying to polish the surface of some metal, but I've almost totally stopped using this stuff for regular sharpening because of the general hassle. 2. Water stones have to be soaked and then they also need to be re-flattened, they make kind of a mess, and usually when I go to sharpen something I want the stuff all set up. So you can leave them soaking all the time but the water will go moldy so now you need to add a little bleach, and then it's still a wet drippy mess to deal with. They're relatively inexpensive but I have gotten very mixed results with cheap water stones of various grits. I've more or less completely stopped using the two double-sided water stones I bought. 3. Natural (oil or water) stones are expensive but work very very well IMO. They also can need re-flattening periodically, but at least I can set up stones somewhere and just drop a drop of oil and go whenever I want to sharpen. I went entirely used because I ran across some at various thrift stores etc. and I find I'm mostly still using my (chipped, but still functional) Arkansas stone the most. I appreciate the immediate ease of use and I always have oil somewhere to drop on them. My one issue is that it's expensive to get really big ones that I want for e.g. sharpening my largest plane irons. 4. Diamond stones seem to vary in quality. I am now using more expensive DIA stones that have rubber feet, I spritz with a little slightly-soapy water which helps a lot. Never having to re-flatten them is a big plus. I think there's some very cheap ones out there now that I haven't bought or messed with so I'm hesitant to recommend them. I do wish I had more of the very fine stones, but right now I tend to use my DIA course, then fine, then the arkansas stone, and then strop. That is a pretty good progression for what I'm doing now. That's all for daily, regular sharpening. Going back to rehabilitating abused old planes, though? The sandpaper is completely indespensable for starting from scratch. None of the water, oil, or diamond stones are up to the task of flattening the bottom of a plane, and when I have to start a plane iron on the grinder to create a new bevel and then try to flatten the back as well, even the course DIA stone is way way way too slow, compared to 150 grit sandpaper stuck to a square of cut granite. I also find myself reaching for different stones depending on various niche tasks. smoothing the inside surface of a V-shaped gouge on the corner of a diamond stone doesn't seem to work because the diamond is only on one surface, whereas a water stone works well maybe especially because it wears away a little so it can get down into the cranny? My big, medium-grit oilstone comes out for an intermediate step between the coarse and fine diamond stones when dealing with very large plane irons, seems to take too long otherwise, but that may mean I need a grit in between "coarse" and "fine" DIA. tl;dr, all of the above work, they all have advantages and disadvantages, a lot depends on exactly what you're sharpening, how often, what your workspace is set up like, and what your budget is like.
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May 13, 2024 18:43
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I bought this diamond stone and it has been great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YZ57ZVZ?th=1 It has some heft and works great. Best value I have seen as well.
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May 13, 2024 18:45
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Leperflesh posted:That's all for daily, regular sharpening. Going back to rehabilitating abused old planes, though? The sandpaper is completely indespensable for starting from scratch. None of the water, oil, or diamond stones are up to the task of flattening the bottom of a plane, and when I have to start a plane iron on the grinder to create a new bevel and then try to flatten the back as well, even the course DIA stone is way way way too slow, compared to 150 grit sandpaper stuck to a square of cut granite. This is extremely true. I've got a piece of float glass for this purpose. Coarse sandpaper until you start getting a burr, then some finer sandpaper, then take it to your bench stones.
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May 13, 2024 18:46
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alnilam posted:I wanna get some sharpening stones, I know this is a If I were just gonna get one thing, I'd probably go with oil stones, with a coarser diamond if the budget allowed. Oil stones are fairly slow to sharpen, but they last forever and make a beautifully sharp edge. My black Arkansas stone, aside from just being pretty, will put a mirror polish on stuff. If you can add a diamond stone into the mix, it will let you bypass alot of the 'slow to sharpen.' It also helps alot with coarser oil stones to scrub them from time to time with soapy water or naptha.
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May 13, 2024 18:47
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alnilam posted:heavy duty lid stays That's the search term I was looking for! Took me to McMaster-Carr and exactly the sort of thing I was imagining, no direct access needed
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May 13, 2024 19:03
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I never see any woodworkers recommend it but I used a regular ol metal file to flatten the sole of my lovely harbor freight plane before breaking out the sandpaper. I'd easily recommend that over sandpaper if you know what you're working w needs a lot of material removed. don't do it to a nice plane though they're too aggressive
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May 13, 2024 19:36
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Those of you with a duststopper, how do you prevent your homer bucket from imploding when your hose inevitable seals against a flat surface (a bench top, work piece, or garage floor for instance)? My bucket is like 70% duct tape at this point.
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May 13, 2024 21:21
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cut a tiny notch in the end of the hose so that doesn't happen anymore
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May 13, 2024 21:27
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I have never had that issue, and I have to assume it's because I have leaks in my system somewhere
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