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MG Universe Booster should solve your problem then.
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Mar 1, 2014 07:40
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Caros posted:While I absolutely LOVE the Build Strike I'm just not feeling the build booster. Just adds too much bulk to the back of the model as with the 00 gundam (which I also have seperate from the raiser). Assuming you mean to stick the Freedom's Wings onto the Build Strike, that should work. Dalong.net's great for looking up stuff like that. http://dalong.net/review/mg/m176/m176_p.htm http://dalong.net/review/mg/m72/m72_p.htm BlitzBlast posted:MG Universe Booster's box is kind of mediocre, but holy hell the kit. drat, those wings are gorgeous on the MG  .
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Mar 1, 2014 16:31
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So uh, there anyway to unfuck this up or am I ordering a new face. http://imgur.com/dLKOVrC
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Mar 2, 2014 00:19
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:So uh, there anyway to unfuck this up or am I ordering a new face. Make a battle damage custom? Otherwise, I don't think that's fixable.
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Mar 2, 2014 00:48
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:So uh, there anyway to unfuck this up or am I ordering a new face. Yeah, I think battle damage is about your only option. e: Wait, is that cracked or did you just slip with the pen? If it's just ink it should wipe right off.
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Mar 2, 2014 00:48
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Is that spilled ink or actual cuts?
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Mar 2, 2014 00:48
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Ink from trying to panel wash. I've got a new faceplate ordered but I'm gonna paint over it for now. I can not get it out.
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Mar 2, 2014 00:50
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Um. What the heck are you using that doesn't just wipe right off?
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Mar 2, 2014 00:52
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Enamel paint and paint thinner mix. I'm not sure what the hell happened. There's been a few other things if had issues with on this kit.
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Mar 2, 2014 00:56
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If it's not wiping off, dunk it in iso alcohol for an hour or two. Then it'll wipe off. The best reason I can give is that you didn't wash your pieces, maybe? That's usually not necessary for a panel wash, but if you had some really greasy fingers you could end up with a stain like that.
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Mar 2, 2014 01:05
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Looks to me like there were a bunch of little scratches that got filled in with the ink. Same sort of thing happened to me on my Freedom model the first time.
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Mar 2, 2014 01:18
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:Enamel paint and paint thinner mix. I'm not sure what the hell happened. There's been a few other things if had issues with on this kit. I had some problems with a bottle of Testor's enamel that did that and also embrittled the plastic such that it shattered when I put it in the thinner after a panel lining mishap. That whole kit was very brittle, though - I'm thinking they may have had a bad batch of plastic because I've never seen that happen before or since.
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Mar 2, 2014 01:21
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It's a wonderful day, it is, for Nobell Gundam finally got a restock!
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Mar 2, 2014 01:25
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I'm thinking that too on both counts.
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Mar 2, 2014 01:26
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Is there any way to get the 7-11 exclusive Gunpla (http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/hguc-1144-rx-93-nu-gundam-ver-gft-7_22.html) in the US?
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Mar 2, 2014 02:20
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Gentei Kits stocks them, but you're not going to find any in American 7-11s.
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Mar 2, 2014 02:28
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unpurposed posted:Is there any way to get the 7-11 exclusive Gunpla (http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/hguc-1144-rx-93-nu-gundam-ver-gft-7_22.html) in the US? The fin funnel with the 7-11 logo has me giggling far more than it has any right to.
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Mar 2, 2014 02:32
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BlitzBlast posted:Even if you don't use it, Zeta 2.0 is still designed to transform. The arms are incredibly awkward, the balance is a joke, most of its weapons are too big for their own good, and good luck doing anything beyond the box art pose. At least Zeta comes with a stand; it's absolutely abysmal to try and pose without it, even with those big ol fuckin feet. Worth noting that the hyper mega launcher is bascially only feasible in space. Still, it bugs me that the quality of hand design is all over the loving place for MGs. You'd have think they would have nailed a double peg / hole system for the palms or something by now. The ones with the minuscule slit / hole are a joke.
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Mar 2, 2014 02:46
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 Finally spray coated this RX-78-2 Ver.Ka I did a little while ago... and then I realized I forgot to do the decals.  Ah well, I can always probably recoat it after... 
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Mar 2, 2014 03:11
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So it turns out this kit was a bad plastic batch. I'm gonna be heading to the hobby store tomorrow for rubber cement. Any recommendations?
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Mar 2, 2014 03:36
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:So it turns out this kit was a bad plastic batch. I'm gonna be heading to the hobby store tomorrow for rubber cement. Any recommendations? how did you determine that it was the plastic's fault and not your own?
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Mar 2, 2014 04:18
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Fauxtool posted:how did you determine that it was the plastic's fault and not your own? Edit: after reading what I just typed the face bit was my gently caress up but I think a bit was damaged in shipping too. Bend marks on parts probably doesn't come from the factory. SethSeries fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Mar 2, 2014 |
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Mar 2, 2014 04:24
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I got some copper paint to touch up the joints on the RX78 3.0, but can I do it without priming?
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Mar 2, 2014 09:55
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I don't think using an enamel-based wash on bare plastic is too great of an idea, myself. Compared to acrylic it's more toxic, more likely to damage the plastic, and any advantage from its better flow characteristics is pretty much cancelled out by the first two points.
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Mar 2, 2014 14:34
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Bimmi posted:I don't think using an enamel-based wash on bare plastic is too great of an idea, myself. Compared to acrylic it's more toxic, more likely to damage the plastic, and any advantage from its better flow characteristics is pretty much cancelled out by the first two points. To expand on this: Testor's Enamel Thinner is some seriously potent stuff. I've literally had pieces dissolve in my hand due to mishaps and accidents. Once dropped a Master Grade Crossbone's head into the wash by accident. Disintegrated like nothing I'd seen before. At least get a clear coat on that sucker and for the love of god let it cure. That's another thing enamel thinner will do: pull up anything. Don't let your clear coat properly cure? Well, hope you didn't like that paintjob.
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Mar 2, 2014 14:55
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Well I just sliced one of the cool foil stickers for the visor of my rg RX-78-2 in half putting it on. Any tips for putting those things on or should I give up and paint it?
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Mar 2, 2014 15:29
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Mecha Gojira posted:To expand on this: Testor's Enamel Thinner is some seriously potent stuff. I've literally had pieces dissolve in my hand due to mishaps and accidents. Once dropped a Master Grade Crossbone's head into the wash by accident. Disintegrated like nothing I'd seen before. That's what I'd been using for panel washes. Man I wish I'd known that. Hell it may have contributed to last night's head erosion.
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Mar 2, 2014 16:42
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Mecha Gojira posted:To expand on this: Testor's Enamel Thinner is some seriously potent stuff. Yeah this is probably the issue. Personally I use Turpenoid, which so far has proven to be a lot safer (in the quantities I use it, aka literally one drop) and yet still effective at thinning enamels. Odorless too! Anonymous Robot posted:I got some copper paint to touch up the joints on the RX78 3.0, but can I do it without priming? Sure but get a coat of gloss black underneath it first so the copper can shine. Also get ready for the paint on the arms to scratch like crazy. The Missing Link posted:Well I just sliced one of the cool foil stickers for the visor of my rg RX-78-2 in half putting it on. Any tips for putting those things on or should I give up and paint it? Gently remove it from the sticker sheet with the edge of your knife, apply it without touching it, and then flatten it with a q-tip or something. Generally you want to reduce the amount of contact your skin has the stickers since skin oil does crazy poo poo. Also to be totally honest you should probably just get the waterslides or something since stickers are pretty much the worst of the various kinds of decals. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Mar 2, 2014 |
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Mar 2, 2014 16:43
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So before I go get glue, even though I ordered parts which are a ways off, is there anything I can get to kinda restrengthen that face bit from last night? I'm getting some plastic cement, but didn't know if there was anything else.
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Mar 2, 2014 16:50
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BlitzBlast posted:
I've got water slides coming but I thought the foil would look better for just the eyes. We'll see. I picked it off the sheet with tweezers and set it on the piece just a little crooked. I had to use my knife to get under it to reposition and it just folded up and got sliced in half.
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Mar 2, 2014 17:21
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Tbat's the annoying part about stickers/dry transfers, you only really get one shot.hallo spacedog posted:
 Over here I've finished lining my 3.0. Now for all of these waterslides.   Also the 2.0's attachments are compatible with the 3.0, but don't really work all that well. Super Napalm is still too heavy for the wrist, the new way the beam sabers connect to the hand mean I can't do the javelin toss pose with the Beam Javelin, and the Gundam Hammer just kind of sits in the hand. The greatest shame of all is that the shield's hardpoints are no longer compatible with the Bazooka's peg though. My dreams of a double bazooka shield, gone.  Until I Future it.
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Mar 2, 2014 17:43
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Your super napalm is backwards. It was almost too heavy for an unpainted 2.0 as well, but the twohanded pose with it is great so no complaints there.
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Mar 2, 2014 18:10
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Well poo poo, it is. Sometimes I wonder what the hell I was smoking when I first built my 2.0.
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Mar 2, 2014 18:16
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Can you not use acrylic-based paints? All my experience comes from warhams days long since passed, but it's just a little detail work I need to do and if it means buying primer and enamel paints, I'll probably just chill on it.
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Mar 2, 2014 18:18
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It's not like you can't use acrylics, but metallic enamels look waaaaaaay better. Either way the most important thing is to get a coat of gloss black (doesn't have to be a primer, you can just use paint) on the plastic first. It'll completely kill the original color of the plastic, and the gloss will help the copper paint shine.
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Mar 2, 2014 18:26
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Ok so a bit of an update. I fixed the broken parts on my Turn A with Testor's plastic cement. I pained over the super small cracks and it looks ok. Was wondering if I could apply a layer of cement to maybe seal them then repaint over, or just leave it be.
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Mar 2, 2014 18:31
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Plastic cement works by melting the plastic, so I really would not recommend that.
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Mar 2, 2014 18:38
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Hey guys, just sort of dipping my toe into this whole anime robot model kit thing. A few questions and comments: 1 - If I want to build dioramas and little vignette type deals on various sized bases, is there any reason to buy RG kits over HG/etc? I like the 1/144 size a lot, and it looks like most of the RG's details are internal stuff, or things that make it a better action figure/etc. Blingier parts arent really an advantage easier because I will probably be 100% repainting the HG kits. 2 - Does anyone have any experience with Kotobukiya's kits? I really like some of the broken blade, armored core etc. series of giant robots. I am more of a giant robot fan than a Gundam fan specifically, so when I start posting kits Ive finished I will prob be all over the place as far as which kit I chose that week or whatever. 3 - I have a lot of experience with model painting (wargaming stuff/etc). and airbrushing. Would anyone be interested if I posted some alternate ways to panel line/weather/etc. not using enamels and turps? I refuse to use anything that isnt acrylic, I have a pretty sensitive respiratory system so I stick only to acrylics for any painting project. I can post my experiments here if anyone gives a poo poo. 4 - I'm also looking at some various garage kit resin kits from Berserk and poo poo like that. Is that cool to post here?
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Mar 2, 2014 19:10
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1. RG kits look better out of the box and are more posable. Dunno why you think most of the detail is on the inside though, there's a ridiculous amount of surface detail on them. The selection is pretty small though, and unless you put the work into the accompanying HGs to also look as good it'll clash. Go with HGs. 2. Captain Invictus posted some SRW kit reviews a while back, and they're on the first page. In general the plastic quality isn't as good, the prices are higher, and the availability much worse. Other then that they're solid. 3. It's already well-known that you can do a panel wash with acrylics, and I'm not really sure where you heard that you can only weather with enamels. Sounds interesting though, so go for it. 4. I think we talked about this a couple pages ago or something? Seem to recall Mecha Gojira not really wanting to go down the figure rabbit hole and everyone else just shrugging.
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Mar 2, 2014 19:16
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| # ? Jun 12, 2024 22:14 |
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Cool. I wasnt sure if it was a consensus thing that enamels were better or something, I havent read the whole thread (yikes!). As far as statues, thats cool, Ill just ping the OP if/when I have anything that isnt a GIANT ROBOT. Thanks for the info 
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Mar 2, 2014 19:19
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