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It definitely feels like a stretch to say "red, black, white means nazi" and it's not something my mind would jump to. Unless the Coca-Cola Zero logo is also a nazi symbol...
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Feb 26, 2022 22:40
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Yeah, like I said above - it's pretty innocuous outside of a context where assholes constantly signal that they're nazis sympathizers. Same with those sig runes from WD a few issues ago.
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Feb 26, 2022 22:57
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I'm still working on the base, but I'm so stoked on starting my DG kill team with the pre heresy color scheme. It's nice to be able to be sloppy for a change and have it look good 
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Feb 26, 2022 23:05
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moths posted:Yeah, like I said above - it's pretty innocuous outside of a context where assholes constantly signal that they're nazis sympathizers. You know there are some hobbyists who build scale models of actual Nazi tanks right?
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Feb 27, 2022 01:19
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So this one was originally with Chaos Black when I was thinking of Ultramarines. However I’m quite happy with how the base layer Corax White. That said I might still consider getting a spray can of it just so I don’t go through the actual base color paint so fast.  Oh I’m gonna have to strip the paint on one of the Ultramarines I was painting. Can someone link to a good tutorial on how to do that?
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Feb 27, 2022 02:02
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Toss him in a mason jar of store brand isopropyl alcohol for a half hour and peel the paint off with an old toothbrush after.
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Feb 27, 2022 02:13
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AndyElusive posted:Toss him in a mason jar of store brand isopropyl alcohol for a half hour and peel the paint off with an old toothbrush after. Oh wow that’s pretty easy and safe. Ironically I actually have some mason jars to work with.
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Feb 27, 2022 02:15
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Funny you mention that; it’s actually in the manual that you should do that. Also for anyone who does model airplanes how do you do the cockpit correctly without getting it fogged up? Glue clear plastics with PVA glue. Mod Podge is nice and strong, but as long as you're not caressing the cockpit all day long, even Elmers will hold.
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Feb 27, 2022 02:33
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grassy gnoll posted:Glue clear plastics with PVA glue. Mod Podge is nice and strong, but as long as you're not caressing the cockpit all day long, even Elmers will hold. Thank you very much! I have some of that Tamya extra thin cement, so that should help.
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Feb 27, 2022 02:35
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Marshal Prolapse posted:So this one was originally with Chaos Black when I was thinking of Ultramarines. However I’m quite happy with how the base layer Corax White. That said I might still consider getting a spray can of it just so I don’t go through the actual base color paint so fast. Don't buy GW spray paint, just get some Krylon, Rustoleum or w/e decent brand of primer from any hardware store.
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Feb 27, 2022 02:35
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Cinara posted:Don't buy GW spray paint, just get some Krylon or w/e decent brand of primer from any hardware store. Can you recommend what would be a good Corax white substitute?
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Feb 27, 2022 02:36
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I don't have any to compare but it's a pretty normal white isn't it?
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Feb 27, 2022 02:39
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White Primer is usually a bad idea due to composition and making it really sensitive to weather and it's hard to get a smooth coat. Unless there is some brand that actually pulls it off somehow.
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Feb 27, 2022 02:44
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Cooked Auto posted:White Primer is usually a bad idea due to composition and making it really sensitive to weather and it's hard to get a smooth coat. Yeah and honestly with how well it went on the black primer I figured I could at least use up that first anyway and then the wraith bone one I got.
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Feb 27, 2022 02:45
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Thank you very much! I have some of that Tamya extra thin cement, so that should help. Super duper do not put plastic cement on clear plastic. It'll fog it at minimum and might actually fracture the plastic.
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Feb 27, 2022 02:54
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I've used a few cans of wraithbone spray primer and it has always worked really well for me. I know it's a premium over grabbing a can at Home Depot or whatever, but it's always worked well for me, I'm in the game store more than Home Depot, the price difference isn't extreme, and I am quite lazy. Edit: now I use an airbrush so I'll probably just do black primer with white ink whenever I get around to priming things that aren't gloss black.
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Feb 27, 2022 03:48
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moths posted:Yeah, like I said above - it's pretty innocuous outside of a context where assholes constantly signal that they're nazis sympathizers. Assholes racists are not known for subtlety or nuance, and would never stop at just painting their minis red black and white. One of the few good things about Nazi shitheads is that they’re really good at outting themselves, so I see no reason to worry about somebody’s color choices.
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Feb 27, 2022 06:24
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Speaking of clear plastic, I'm finishing up building my Immolator and there's the clear plastic for stain glass that the instructions say should be painted before it's glued. I just want to finish building the thing, is it best to just do a sub-assembly or what did other people do?
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Feb 27, 2022 06:35
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Cooked Auto posted:White Primer is usually a bad idea due to composition and making it really sensitive to weather and it's hard to get a smooth coat. Yep. I’ve painted dozens of majority white Space Marines and use grey primer followed by a couple thin coats of Ulthuan Grey.
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Feb 27, 2022 11:50
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 Worked on some Mutant Hounds a bit tonight
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Feb 28, 2022 07:26
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So I think I gotten to a new interesting point of confidence in my painting…or perhaps impatience lol. I’ve been slavishly using Duncan’s and others tutorials i’m going step-by-step and even stopping if I don’t have the right color. I felt like every time I went to paint something different I was as going to need to make a huge paint investment or if I have one type of red they use a different red. I think I’ve gotten to the point where I’m OK with using a different color if it works just as well instead of just wanting to go out and buy it, which if you see some of the crazy paint lists some people have for just one figure, can be kind of daunting and intimidating, not to mention cost prohibitive. Also what the hell does anyone ever idea retribution armor as a primer for? I mean I think it’s a cool color and my son absolutely loves painting with it, but I can’t think of a single unit, besides one of biggie himself, that would make sense to prime in gold?
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Feb 28, 2022 08:06
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Marshal Prolapse posted:So I think I gotten to a new interesting point of confidence in my painting…or perhaps impatience lol. I’ve been slavishly using Duncan’s and others tutorials i’m going step-by-step and even stopping if I don’t have the right color. The Stormcast Eternals (space marines of the age of sigmar game) are advertised in a retributor base-color scheme. Which is unfortunate because the models look better in a different metallic or other colors in my opinion
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Feb 28, 2022 08:09
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Booyah- posted:The Stormcast Eternals (space marines of the age of sigmar game) are advertised in a retributor base-color scheme. Which is unfortunate because the models look better in a different metallic or other colors in my opinion Okay that makes sense ironically I built one of those from the starter set, but my son as I mentioned earlier in the thread, decided to paint it on his own, so I never checked out the official color scheme.
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Feb 28, 2022 08:11
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Aranan posted:I've used a few cans of wraithbone spray primer and it has always worked really well for me. I know it's a premium over grabbing a can at Home Depot or whatever, but it's always worked well for me, I'm in the game store more than Home Depot, the price difference isn't extreme, and I am quite lazy. fwiw, I think the contrast primers use a different Citadel-specific formulation. It's very distinct in it's smell compared to other spray primers. Army Painter is absolutely just Rustoleum\Krylon though
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Feb 28, 2022 08:56
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Marshal Prolapse posted:I felt like every time I went to paint something different I was as going to need to make a huge paint investment or if I have one type of red they use a different red. I think I’ve gotten to the point where I’m OK with using a different color if it works just as well instead of just wanting to go out and buy it, which if you see some of the crazy paint lists some people have for just one figure, can be kind of daunting and intimidating, not to mention cost prohibitive. Start mixing shades when the guide calls for something you don't have. I picked up 100 squeeze bottles for super cheap online, they're slowly filling up with paint colors called for by a specific model that nobody actually makes. Or cases where I need a darker shade of red than I actually own. There's been plenty of times where I mixed up a shade that I could have mail ordered, but didn't want to wait a week to finish the models on the bench.
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Feb 28, 2022 10:57
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I know it’s literally a grievance that goes back decades, but I really wishCitadel would just sell their paints in dropper bottles. I was cleaning out some lids that were gunked up and was reminded how inefficiency was by design.
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Feb 28, 2022 11:56
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Bad Faith Effort posted:Army Painter is absolutely just Rustoleum\Krylon though Aranan posted:I've used a few cans of wraithbone spray primer and it has always worked really well for me. I know it's a premium over grabbing a can at Home Depot or whatever, but it's always worked well for me, I'm in the game store more than Home Depot, the price difference isn't extreme, and I am quite lazy. Wraithbone is probably the only GW primer that I would recommend over Krylon. It's just too good of a base for almost everything, albeit extremely expensive. But yeah, if you've got an airbrush, black with a zenithal white will do just about the same thing, along with also giving you a nice shading layer.
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Feb 28, 2022 14:01
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Speaking of red primer, I'm about to paint my first Ork jet, and naturally I'm painting it red. I've seen some talk about red being a tough color to spray down on bare plastic. Should I do a black base first then the red on top?
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Feb 28, 2022 19:06
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Jeff Wiiver posted:Speaking of red primer, I'm about to paint my first Ork jet, and naturally I'm painting it red. I've seen some talk about red being a tough color to spray down on bare plastic. Should I do a black base first then the red on top? Are you talking rattle can or airbrush? If you're using an airbrush I'd prime it black and spray a red basecoat, Ideally using zenithal, panel or modulation technique. you might need a couple of passes but airbrush layers are so thin that i won't matter.  For a rattle can, I'd just start with a red primer, even if it's not an exact color match a single coat of your chosen red will cover just fine.
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Feb 28, 2022 19:47
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Sorry, meant rattlecan. Thanks!
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Feb 28, 2022 20:13
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Jeff Wiiver posted:Speaking of red primer, I'm about to paint my first Ork jet, and naturally I'm painting it red. I've seen some talk about red being a tough color to spray down on bare plastic. Should I do a black base first then the red on top? Yeah, if you're using rattlecan, you're probably not going to be able to spray thin enough for the prime white/black/whatever to make a difference, and you're very likely to obscure all of your detail, since rattlecans aren't finesse tools. If airbrush, you can either do what Bucnasti recommends, or you can prime with a red-brown (Vallejo makes one) and just paint on top of that. If you're not going to do modulation or any sort of lighting effect using white on black, I would avoid straight red over straight black, since it's going to be tough for that red, since it's semi-transparent and will allow the undercoat to show through. If you spray direct on black, especially with an airbrush, you're going to get a duller, maybe even muddy, red. Muted isn't a bad thing, but if you want to do any weathering or anything, it's usually better to start bright and tone down.
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Feb 28, 2022 20:20
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Okay, thats the second person to say that a second coat of a rattlecan will obscure all your details, this time with a black then a red, last time it was someone I think talking about a zenithal or similar... I gotta ask, how thick are you guys spraying your spraycans? Or am I just drastically underestimating how small the details on an ork jet are? As long as you are keeping your can a decent distance from the model and doing quick passes you shouldnt be clogging up detail basically at all. I do all my priming with a rattlecan and essentially always do a zenithal with a lighter colour, on some figures I've used 3 colours and never had a problem with detail. I mean, I broadly agree that if you are painting it red I wouldnt spray black then white then red, but thats more because your red spray paint will probably be opaque enough that the zenithal wouldnt make much difference rather than because I think the model will become a featureless tube of dried paint. I'd either do a grey with a white zenithal and then paint the red by hand or just spray the thing red to start with and work from there myself. I suspect that people talking about red being tough to spray over plastic might have been talking about airbrushing a figure red, basically because I've never heard the idea that any particular colour of spray primer will have issues covering plastic. Now, I freely admit that I've not painted a lot of vehicles so maybe the panel lines are just far more delicate than I'm giving them credit for, but... I'll grant you as precision instruments go a rattlecan isnt a scalpel, but its also not a shovel.
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Feb 28, 2022 21:23
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A lot of people use rattlecans like a shovel, though, because they don't know how to properly distance the can or move when spraying. And, tbf, rattlecans aren't great for zenithal - they work, but you really have to be in an ideal location (like a garage) with next to no wind where you can do quick, controlled dustings. If you have that, awesome - use it to your advantage. Most people I know of really aren't that lucky though. It's also dependent on the product - Krylon works great for me, and Rustoleum seems to go on way too heavy and obscures everything every time I've used it. But again, I'm just speaking from my personal experience.
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Feb 28, 2022 21:41
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I dont have a garage or a shed, but I do have access to an outside space. I do my undercoating outdoors in the back garden, if its a relatively nice day. But I live in scotland and nice days can be few and far between. If its not I stand at the open back door in the kitchen and spray so that any overspray goes outside. You spray from "above" of the model, so if those models are for example blu-tacked to an old cereal box you can hold that up perpendicular to the floor so you are spraying the can straight forward. Any spray that goes past the figures and outside can blow at whatever angle it likes, thats outsides problem. Honestly find that easier than doing it from actually above, sometimes rattlecans dont like being held horizontally, particularly if they are very cheap and/or approaching end of their useful life.
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Feb 28, 2022 22:13
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I live in Nova Scotia and always have my next project prepped for priming so on the nice days I can run out and prime them
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Feb 28, 2022 22:44
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 did some work on this tonight Edit: open to C&C if you want GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Mar 1, 2022 |
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Mar 1, 2022 06:26
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BaronVanAwesome posted:Warmaster gems Going back a few pages, I've searched for the exact kind of paint that would work, even checking stuff like nail polish, all kinds of color shifting paints, artists pigments, inks, and so on, and just haven't found anything that would fit my vision. At least, until I'd seen a model car in Google Image Search, which got me to thinking about actual automotive paint, or at least the actual flake used in said paint. I know that Vallejo airbrush metallics have a really finely ground flake used for their metal effects, but I don't know exactly how small they are. Looking at what's available as far as automotive paint pigment, though, that is definitely the smallest pigment I've seen (which is nice because of the scale), and it has that blue base and rainbow sheen that an opal would tend to have. My initial thought would be to mix the pigment with a gloss medium and try that, so that way none of the reflectiveness is lost, but there's definitely enough there to not only easily cover my entire army and then some, but I could probably play around with different bases and mediums and see what I can come up with.
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Mar 1, 2022 10:39
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
Love the hue contrast upper / lower surfaces, and your individual volume shading is good (like the pads on the hand / fingers) but the overall contrast seems low. Might be the photo, but it seems like the model is being lit from a light that is in front of it below the eye-line? So the surfaces that face away from the light should be darker overall. "The darkest light is lighter than the lightest dark." Something I am trying to work on as well...
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Mar 1, 2022 18:28
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Lumpy posted:Love the hue contrast upper / lower surfaces, and your individual volume shading is good (like the pads on the hand / fingers) but the overall contrast seems low. Might be the photo, but it seems like the model is being lit from a light that is in front of it below the eye-line? So the surfaces that face away from the light should be darker overall. "The darkest light is lighter than the lightest dark." Something I am trying to work on as well... Yeah I wasn't sure what to do for the contrast, because while I looks like I got the colors right what I wanted I think maybe I need to go even lighter on the chest areas, because if I have the light coming down from above the whole model of just looks really dark, what if I shine the light from below like in that picture, then it looks a little bit better but I'm still unsatisfied with it. I can try to retake the shot from above but then I'm not quite sure how to make it pop more It also doesn't help that the model itself is kind of facing down, so taking the shot from above means that you're losing out on any of the what the chest looks like, the arms and all you get are the details on the back GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Mar 1, 2022 |
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Mar 1, 2022 20:31
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What's the best paint for painting 1980s/1990s Citadel miniatures these days? I haven't picked up a brush in over 20 years (and wasn't much cop at it then, to be honest), but I've just spent far too much money on nostalgic squig herders and halflings on eBay and need to do something with them. Warhammer Fantasy Battle (4th edition) all the way. I never really got into 40k.
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