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Isn't it essentially perfumed WD-40? I use WD-40 for anything Goo-Gone is for, as it's 400X cheaper.
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Nov 4, 2023 03:47
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wd-40 is primarily mineral oil and propellant
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Nov 4, 2023 03:48
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always be closing posted:Can’t even wipe it with some dish soap? Yeah, I panicked and found a 24-hour automated car wash. Sprung for the $14 “super wash” and it seems to have gotten it all off.
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Nov 4, 2023 04:37
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I AM GRANDO posted:Yeah, I panicked and found a 24-hour automated car wash. Sprung for the $14 “super wash” and it seems to have gotten it all off. better safe than sorry
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Nov 4, 2023 04:45
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Is this a good thread to ask about tires, or is there a more apt thread that my blind rear end couldn't find?
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Nov 4, 2023 17:48
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The Demilich posted:Is this a good thread to ask about tires, or is there a more apt thread that my blind rear end couldn't find? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596 tire thread
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Nov 4, 2023 17:56
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596 Awesome thanks
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Nov 4, 2023 18:06
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The positive terminal clamp on my battery cable broke. I bought some universal replacements then noticed that actually, there are two cables going to my battery.    For the negative terminal (which isn't broken so I don't plan to replace it yet) it looks like I can just shove both cables in and clamp it and it's fine. Can I do the same thing with the positive cables, assuming I have enough slack to shove them in? Or do I need to find a similar replacement clamp? Edit:  Maybe something like this? Admiral Joeslop fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Nov 5, 2023 |
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Nov 5, 2023 19:17
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My friend and I just tried to change the brake pads and rotors on my 06 Mustang GT and we couldn't do it. We got the pistons compressed, and got the new pads in, but we couldn't for the life of us get the caliper assembly back onto the rotor - it was too tight on the bottom end. We tried pushing the calipers in a little more, we tried various kinds of wiggling, shoving, rubber malleting, and swearing. Eventually, we ran up on a deadline and just put it all back together with the original parts. We hope to try again some other weekend. Is there anything that jumps to mind? There was plenty of clearance on the top end, but the bottom end was too tight. I don't think it was just the loose rotor being crooked, because it would happen even if we started with the bottom. I don't think we could have put the pads in backwards, they only fit in one way.
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Nov 5, 2023 19:25
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Jack B Nimble posted:My friend and I just tried to change the brake pads and rotors on my 06 Mustang GT and we couldn't do it. We got the pistons compressed, and got the new pads in, but we couldn't for the life of us get the caliper assembly back onto the rotor - it was too tight on the bottom end. We tried pushing the calipers in a little more, we tried various kinds of wiggling, shoving, rubber malleting, and swearing. Eventually, we ran up on a deadline and just put it all back together with the original parts. We hope to try again some other weekend. Make sure your slide pins are moving. If everything is moving as it should be and the pistons are fully seated back in the calipers, there should be daylight between the caliper and the pads when everything goes back together. It sounds like something doesn't have its full range of motion and is jamming you up.
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Nov 5, 2023 19:49
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Make sure your slide pins are moving. If everything is moving as it should be and the pistons are fully seated back in the calipers, there should be daylight between the caliper and the pads when everything goes back together. It sounds like something doesn't have its full range of motion and is jamming you up. I don't think the bottom one moved. In fact, I know it didn't, because I tried to slide it around experimentally at one point and it wouldn't. So do I need to pull the pin out, clean it, grease it (lithium grease?) and put it back in? Edit - Oh nice, ChrisFix has a video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gdc3PZ0gFvA Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Nov 5, 2023 |
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Nov 5, 2023 19:52
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Jack B Nimble posted:I don't think the bottom one moved. In fact, I know it didn't, because I tried to slide it around experimentally at one point and it wouldn't. So do I need to pull the pin out, clean it, grease it (lithium grease?) and put it back in? Yes you do, but use something better than lithium grease. Every parts store will sell some kind of "brake lubricant" use that poo poo
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Nov 5, 2023 20:03
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I use the purple silicone brake grease on those pins. I just changed the brakes on a V6 Camry yesterday, and both rear calipers had the lower slider pins stuck. A few taps with a mallet got them out, so I wiped them down and put the grease on them. Now they slide easily. This was causing both sets of rear pads to wear on an angle to the point where the squealer was touching the rotors.
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Nov 5, 2023 20:04
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wesleywillis posted:Yes you do, but use something better than lithium grease. I bought a bottle of "silicone brake lubricant", in a can you apply with a brush, that I was using on the backs of the pads, so it sounds like I'd just also put that on the slide pins.
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Nov 5, 2023 20:15
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Jack B Nimble posted:I bought a bottle of "silicone brake lubricant", in a can you apply with a brush, that I was using on the backs of the pads, so it sounds like I'd just also put that on the slide pins. Yup
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Nov 5, 2023 20:24
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Great, thanks everyone; I've changed a few pads before but I guess I never had a problem with a slide pin, so this has been a big help.
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Nov 5, 2023 20:26
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Well I kludged the cables together well enough that I can jump the car and it runs fine but there's not enough juice to start on its own so off to get the battery replaced tomorrow.
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Nov 5, 2023 21:11
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I have used both of these styles of "bolt on" battery cable clamp over the years. Even in absolutely ideal conditions (clean, uncorroded cables) they are sketchy at best and will eventually lose grip on the wire, so you need to periodically tighten things back down. However, if your cable clamp is so nasty that it's fallen apart, the cable it's soldered/crimped to is also likely quite nasty. This leads to even more shifting around / loosening and a worse experience overall. Also, high odds that even if you get the new clamp installed properly, that there's still too much resistance in the resulting cable/connection to start your car. The right solution is to replace the cable altogether. Depending on what you can get your hands on and what tools you have, you can accomplish this with some crimp-on ends and cut-to-length cable, or buy a premade replacement cable, or buy one specifically for the vehicle. My go-to option for a proper fix for this is to use military-style terminal clamps and cables that just have a bolt-through lug crimped on.
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Nov 5, 2023 22:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:I have used both of these styles of "bolt on" battery cable clamp over the years. Even in absolutely ideal conditions (clean, uncorroded cables) they are sketchy at best and will eventually lose grip on the wire, so you need to periodically tighten things back down. I did consider replacing that but there's so many extra cables than what I was expecting. Negative and positive (plus a ground directly to the frame) all in one sleeve, the positive sleeve has a cable to the battery and into the starter, plus trying to pry out all the tabs holding the sleeves in place. Something I would probably pay to have done instead, will ask at the auto shop tomorrow what they might charge for that.
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Nov 5, 2023 22:41
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Believe me, I get it; the worst offender I had in that regard was my old Ranger, which had corrosion running a pretty good way up the positive cable, but also a rats nest of cables tied to it. I never could be assed to fix that one right. My Jeep got all new cables with military terminals because you can replace all of the high-current leads it has (+ to starter, + to alt, + to fusebox, and - to engine block) just reaching in from the passenger side of the engine bay.
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Nov 5, 2023 23:31
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  Thank you thread. Even cleaned and lubed the previously stuck pin doesn't slide with a light tap from one finger, like the others did after I serviced them, so I'm going to buy a replacement, especially since the boot tore apart. But it moves well enough to finish the job without further issue. The other side, which had no stuck slide pin, took twenty minutes, smh.
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Nov 6, 2023 00:52
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Good deal. Try to get a wire brush down in the bore for the pin in the caliper bracket, too. It can be hard to get way down in there, but anything is better than nothing.
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Nov 6, 2023 01:29
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Jack B Nimble posted:
I've always hit the slide pins with a bit of emory cloth (very very very fine sandpaper) before regreasing. This can get the buildup off them and allow them to slide easier - obviously you aren't looking to remove significant material. e: Are slide pins really that big on american cars? Or do you have tiny hands OP? That looks insane like 50% larger than the slide pins on my import and german stuff.
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Nov 6, 2023 08:06
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I have no idea how the mustang slide pins compare to other cars, I've never pulled one out before. But I wear a size medium glove, the 3.6 roetgen of sizes, for whatever that's worth.
Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Nov 6, 2023 |
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Nov 6, 2023 16:28
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That looks pretty standard on all American cars I’ve dealt with
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Nov 6, 2023 17:05
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Going to post here too for more exposure: big block race car engine with open headers. I have two mufflers for it that came with the car. I'd like to run it long enough to get it up to temp but I don't want to completely piss off my neighbors. Could I just attach the mufflers right to the headers for this purpose?
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Nov 6, 2023 17:44
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If you've got the room and the ability to make it happen, sure.
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Nov 6, 2023 17:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:If you've got the room and the ability to make it happen, sure. It doesn't look pretty but there's definitely room!
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Nov 6, 2023 20:49
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two_beer_bishes posted:Going to post here too for more exposure: big block race car engine with open headers. I have two mufflers for it that came with the car. I'd like to run it long enough to get it up to temp but I don't want to completely piss off my neighbors. Could I just attach the mufflers right to the headers for this purpose? If you're worried about the heat damaging the mufflers it's fine. It'll still be extremely loud but nothing near as bad as open headers.
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Nov 7, 2023 00:37
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VelociBacon posted:If you're worried about the heat damaging the mufflers it's fine. It'll still be extremely loud but nothing near as bad as open headers. Temperature and pressure were my concerns. It was still really loud but a little more manageable so I let it run for a bit. I didn't get it fully up to temp because it was still obnoxiously loud.
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Nov 7, 2023 01:58
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If you can put even a little bit of pipe after the mufflers, that should help too. Even just a couple feet can make a pretty good difference.
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Nov 7, 2023 02:16
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:If you can put even a little bit of pipe after the mufflers, that should help too. Even just a couple feet can make a pretty good difference. That's a good idea, I'll see if I can get a couple feet for this in the meantime. I'll be getting an actual exhaust setup in the spring but I'd like to minimize the noise for now.
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Nov 7, 2023 03:35
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Having issues with my wife's 2010 Toyota Camry V6. Last week, she started it first thing in the morning, it immediately ran rough and threw a flashing CEL, so she turned it off and took my car to work. Had it towed to a local Meinecke that's been good to us the last few years, diagnosed with bad coils on 3 and 5. Changed the coils and plugs, all was good. Yesterday, same deal. Had it towed to Meinecke again, he noted 3 misfires (including #5), and it would being to overheat at idle but not while driving. Found emulsion on the oil cap. Recommending a head gasket plus possible machining at $2500. The only other trouble she's had with the car is that it had a cracked radiator and popped a coolant hose off while freeway driving this past summer, but again immediately pulled over and had it towed. Haven't had any problems since then until the recent stuff. Should we just get the gasket done? Only really planning on keeping the car another year, and don't want to invest in a rebuilt/remanufactured engine. The other option I guess is to sell the car/scrap it and buy something else, also something we'd prefer not to do if we can keep this one running.
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Nov 7, 2023 22:06
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a mysterious cloak posted:Having issues with my wife's 2010 Toyota Camry V6. How much are they going to charge you for just the head gasket without machining? It's still not a cheap job but pulling the block to machine it is a massive job.
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Nov 8, 2023 00:33
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The Other Other option is to replace the whole engine instead of just doing the head gasket. If a used engine is cheap enough that might be less cost than pulling the head and getting it machined if it's warped (and then what if the deck is warped, or if the other head gasket is also compromised from the overeheat?) I would also hesitate to have this Meineke do any further work on the car. Identifying - and more importantly, confirming bad coils is trivial. They could've easily swapped the #4 coil with either #3 or #5, and if the coil was actually bad it would've moved to the #4 cylinder. Instead they read codes, shotgunned parts, and got lucky that it ran better when they fired it up again because it hadn't leaked coolant into the cylinders while they were working on it.
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Nov 8, 2023 04:44
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a mysterious cloak posted:Found emulsion on the oil cap. Recommending a head gasket plus possible machining at $2500. Wait a second. Emulsion on the oil cap. Can they confirm with a block tester that the headgasket is bad before throwing $2500 at the issue!
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Nov 8, 2023 21:21
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 Here's the voltage reading on my 2005 Crown Vic. Just had the battery replaced a few days ago and the alternator several months ago. The voltage was this low before my battery died; normally it was closer to 1/3 of the way up the gauge. So far it's been starting fine but I'm worried the battery is just draining and not recharging.
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Nov 8, 2023 22:02
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Admiral Joeslop posted:
That dash thing doesn't really mean much diagnostically, you need to put a multimeter across the terminals of the battery (or to the +ve on the battery and ground) with the car off as well as with the car idling and let us know what you get.
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Nov 8, 2023 22:24
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I want to trying replacing my summers with winters on my own this year on my ND miata. I was thinking of using a floor jack & stands and do either left/right side followed by the other, rather than front/back. I figured since the emergency brake only affects the rear wheels, makes more sense to do side/side rather than front/rear to avoid any rolling, although I did buy a pair of chocks just in case. Does this matter much? Anything else I should also be considering, such as suspension strain from only raising one side?
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Nov 8, 2023 22:38
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I don't think it matters much, just what's more convenient. On my NB I have to drive onto some boards to be able to jack the front up by the subframe, so if I don't have something handy I just do left/right side instead. Definitely use the chocks in either case thoguh just to be safe.
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Nov 8, 2023 22:49
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