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Starker44 posted:You can use veneer on plywood to make it look like what ever wood you want. As for the design it's a 'floating' design. Here is a guideon how to build floating shelves. With the link you posted, his blueprints are on picture #5. I guess I should've been clearer in what I meant. specifically I'm wondering about how to do the edging, I've got a place I can get really nice walnut veneered ply from but getting the face matched up nicely like that is what I'd like to figure out. Are there any guides to applying edging to ply? It's probably a total woodworking 101 thing, I've just never done it before. I found this guide to doing it with veneer but it looks like for that guy's shelves he used a solid wood edge which I'd like to try out. http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/edgebanding-guide.htm MMD3 fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jul 23, 2012 |
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Jul 23, 2012 19:39
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MMD3 posted:I guess I should've been clearer in what I meant. specifically I'm wondering about how to do the edging, I've got a place I can get really nice walnut veneered ply from but getting the face matched up nicely like that is what I'd like to figure out. It's as simple as cutting a thin strip of wood that is the same thickness as the plywood and gluing it on. In the example you posted he mitered the edges. When I do this I make the edging slightly thicker than the plywood and plane it down or use a flush-cut bit in a router. I also use biscuits to add some strength and glue surface.
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Jul 23, 2012 20:40
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MMD3 posted:.. Mahogany edging. Can anyone help me understand how he accomplished this with plywood? I really like the look of the contrasting edging a lot. Just cut thin strips and glue it on. efb wormil fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 02:07
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Hi woodworking thread. I started an SA-Mart thread that might be of interest to some of you (I hope?). http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3497790
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Jul 25, 2012 06:49
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Hello fellow woodworkers. I am currently looking around for an 8" bench grinder to add to my shop. I've been reading around and with all the different makes, models, and features that they offer is a bit overwhelming. If you have one, what kind is it, how does it perform, did you have to buy any extra aftermarket wheels or bushings to make it true, does your grinder leave your tool sharp or do you hone it afterwards? I know some of you out there love the scary sharp method. I have been getting a lot of Tormek results and that grinder is nice however extremely pricey.
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Jul 26, 2012 05:01
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Definitely recommend watching these: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/my-sharpening-system/ http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/sharpening-options/ He has a grinder but doesn't use it much - if you are just sharpening chisels, you might be better off with stones and a guide. dja98 fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Jul 26, 2012 |
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Jul 26, 2012 05:40
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Hey guys! I just purchased this: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80035920/ It says it the pamphlet it was oiled/finished once in the factory but if I want to cut food on it I need to oil/finish it myself. What do I need to buy and how do I need to apply it so that I can safely use the top as a cutting board (which is what I was told its intended for)? I'm also pretty finicky about plastics and EDC's and whatnot so the more "natural" the better. Thanks! thehandtruck fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Jul 26, 2012 |
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Jul 26, 2012 06:33
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thehandtruck posted:Hey guys! I just purchased this: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80035920/ I got mine from here: http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html
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Jul 26, 2012 07:21
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Be aware that tung oil comes from a nut and people with nut allergies may have a bad reaction to food prepared on the cutting board. Mineral oil is another option though it needs frequent reapplication.
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Jul 26, 2012 10:19
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Starker44 posted:Hello fellow woodworkers. I am currently looking around for an 8" bench grinder to add to my shop. I've been reading around and with all the different makes, models, and features that they offer is a bit overwhelming. If you have one, what kind is it, how does it perform, did you have to buy any extra aftermarket wheels or bushings to make it true, does your grinder leave your tool sharp or do you hone it afterwards? I know some of you out there love the scary sharp method. I have been getting a lot of Tormek results and that grinder is nice however extremely pricey. I have a Porter Cable grinder that I picked up at Lowes. It's nothing fancy but it works for what I do with it. I had to get some washers to use as spacers when mounting narrower wire wheels since the arbor nuts only thread on to a certain point. I use it mainly for sharpening my lathe tools and grinding the first bevel on chisels and plane irons before I finish them on water stones. I am thinking of making a custom tool-rest for those operations since the ones that come on it are mediocre.
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Jul 26, 2012 14:20
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Two annoying/complex woodworking questions on finishes, and wood for that matter. 1) What are totally food and relative temperature safe finishes for wood? IE lacquered japanese bowls that can hold hot soup. I want to make some vessels for holding liquid/eating out of. 2) What are BABY SAFE finishes, and for that matter, are there any woods that I should especially stay away from for babies? I feel like everything is not baby safe. It would be to make toys for my niece.
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Jul 26, 2012 17:14
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I think salad bowl finish is the go-to finish for food items. Less protective but I believe completely food safe is butcher's block oil. Not sure about temperature resistance on those, as the oil in the latter might soften up or something, but I think the salad bowl finish is pretty drat resilient. That is, salad bowl finish is safe for direct food contact, meaning the food isn't getting cooked afterwards or anything. Once it's fully cured, of course.
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Jul 26, 2012 17:21
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Not an Anthem posted:2) What are BABY SAFE finishes, and for that matter, are there any woods that I should especially stay away from for babies? I feel like everything is not baby safe. It would be to make toys for my niece. Shellac is safe. The only thing potentially harmful about it is the denatured alcohol that is used to liquify the flakes. Once the alcohol evaporates you can eat it. I wouldn't recommend cracking open a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye and chugging it, but if you mix it yourself using Everclear with shellac flakes, you could drink whatever is leftover straight out of the jar. As for wood types, I'd be more worried about the danger of splinters from chewing than toxicity. Plenty of woods will cause respiratory problems, but that comes from breathing the dust from sanding and machining. I've never heard of any wood being toxic to a child as a result of being in contact with it or chewing on it. If you are particularly paranoid, I guess you could avoid Black Walnut, Cedar, and Mahogany.
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Jul 26, 2012 17:56
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Further questions.. what is salad bowl finish/butcher block oil? The MSDS for salad bowl finish is oil modified urethane resin and resin, which seems to just mean "varnish," whereas butcher block oil is just mineral oil (which is not necessarily food safe at all, and not food safe in europe). For wood types I mean that babies have some staggering list of things they shouldn't eat/touch/smell etc, my sister has a list. Didn't know if anyone had run into the "baby safe" problem.
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Jul 26, 2012 21:27
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I don't know why BB oil (a.k.a. mineral oil, as you said) wouldn't be considered food safe, considering that it's often ingested directly as a laxative. I mean, you'd NEVER get enough out of a finished wood product to have any similar effect, and it's not like it's going to grow anything. What do the Europeans think it's going to do? I don't think you'd be happy if you used it as a steak sauce, buuuut... 
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Jul 26, 2012 21:51
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Bought me a lathe! It's the one I posted about last week from Craigslist. Does anybody want to pretend like I'm 5 years old and have no idea what any of this stuff is and tell me what it is and does? Lathe:     Motor:    I'm about 99% sure that this isn't the one that came with the lathe originally, but it works. I'd like to put another cord on it and clean it out and oil it, since it got pretty hot from running for a minute or so. Things:    The guy mentioned that some parts from a newer lathe may have gotten mixed in with the tool rests and stuff from this one. I don't know what's what, but I'm excited to get this stuff cleaned up and running again! 
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Jul 27, 2012 03:18
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If you're going to replace the belt, and the pulleys are the right size, get yourself a bit of power twist belt. That stuff is awesome.quote:Does anybody want to pretend like I'm 5 years old and have no idea what any of this stuff is and tell me what it is and does? headstock, bed, tailstock Holds all your poo poo and makes your wallet burn. tailstock, measuring throw Holds the tail end of the work piece, unless you have the workpiece in a chuck, in which case this just sits there and mopes. The throw is the max radius of a piece you can turn. headstock Provides power to the work piece to make it spin. Holds a drive center or chuck or mounting plate. headstock, pulley, drive belt Protects the belt from you and your fingers from the belt. Provides power to the headstock to turn the workpiece. Adjust the speed by moving the belt. Never set the belt "across" levels of the pulleys, always match the same step on the motor pulley to the same (in a plane) step on the headstock pulley. motor Make turney go model info Tells you about your lathe. You can use this to look up specific info, like when it was built. wiring diagram Tells you how to not kill yourself, or run your lathe on 240VAC, or turn backwards. curved tool rest, straight tool rest, big tool rest, pulley, chuck, chuck Curved tool rest is good for getting inside bowls or following the contours of workpieces. Single post straight tool rest is the "normal" tool rest and will likely get the most use. Double-wide tool rest is neat, haven't seen one like that before. Like little straight tool rest, but apparently has two mounting points. pulley, chuck, chuck, tool rest extension arms, various drill chucks & centers Chucks hold a piece in place without necessarily needing the tailstock pressed in. You can still use the tailstock if you need extra support, of course. Chucks are used for making bowls, vessels, or other pieces where you want to the tail end to be exposed. Tool rest extension arms are used to let you place your tool rest further from the bed, or have the tool rest mount offset from your work piece so you can get that last inch of throw. Drill chucks go on the tailstock and are used for drilling out a work piece: turn the lathe on, and bring the (non-spinning) drill chuck in towards the work piece. Centers go in the headstock and provide spin to a piece pressed in by the tailstock. Generally used for turning spindles. bed closeup, craftsman logo, rust The bed is where you mount the tool rests or other gadgets you'll eventually buy. The craftsman logo is Copyright (c) 2012 Sears Holding Corporation. Rust is a general term describing iron oxides. Be advised, you now have  e: poo poo, of course Turner's is an actual thing. Okay, you have...Wallet Emptiosis.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Jul 27, 2012 |
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Jul 27, 2012 03:21
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If you haven't already check out searspartsdirect.com. I imagine you can get any part you need.
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Jul 27, 2012 03:42
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Bad Munki posted:words Wow, this is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks very much! mds2 posted:If you haven't already check out searspartsdirect.com. I imagine you can get any part you need. Good to know. I'm going to try to figure out what this looked like originally to see if anything's missing, and I'll go from there.
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Jul 27, 2012 04:05
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The Human Cow posted:Bought me a lathe! Looking through the models on vintage machinery it seems like you have the 101.06241 or something similar: http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=10698 Manual: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=4685 I think the motor is supposed to have a stepped pulley like the headstock has. You can probably find one that will fit at McMaster-Carr if the sears parts site doesn't have anything. They also carry link belts in different sizes. I had a Craftsman lathe from the same era but it was a more basic model. Yours looks like it has nicer features. Good luck.
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Jul 27, 2012 04:32
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Could be that spare stepped pulley he's got there?
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Jul 27, 2012 04:40
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On safe finishes, I've read that all finishes are food safe once fully cured (except maybe boiled linseed oil). Definitely avoid nut based (walnut, tung) oils for babies/toddlers, even if they don't have an allergy they can develop a sensitivity, or so I've read. Mineral oil banned in Europe is an urban myth.
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Jul 27, 2012 10:09
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Grats on the lathe purchase. The only thing preventing me from going down that deep hole is lack of space in my garage/shop. Not cleaning up finally pays off! I am still curious about those spacers under the headstock though.wormil posted:On safe finishes, I've read that all finishes are food safe once fully cured (except maybe boiled linseed oil). Definitely avoid nut based (walnut, tung) oils for babies/toddlers, even if they don't have an allergy they can develop a sensitivity, or so I've read. Mineral oil banned in Europe is an urban myth. That is the same conclusion I reached when researching but it's hard to find an authoritative source because "liability". There were a lot of citations of some guy's article in a woodworking magazine but it's not available online as far as I can tell. The issue with boiled linseed oil is that it's usually not just linseed oil. They add petroleum solvents and "metallic dryers" so that it dries and cures faster, making it not food-safe. I think other nut-based oils can have the same issue.
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Jul 27, 2012 19:14
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Well Tung oil can be almost anything and often is. So you have to really read the label whether it is 100% tung oil or a wiping varnish mixture that may have little or no actual tung oil.
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Jul 27, 2012 23:53
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Mineral oil IS food safe. If ingested in large quantities, it's a laxative but the amount consumed from a cutting board is minuscule.
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Jul 28, 2012 02:28
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Looking for a little input here: I'm building a workbench for my new shop space, and I finally got around to buying a miter saw (it's one of those things I've been able to make do without having, in part because everyone has one and so they're easy to borrow from a friend as needed...after the move, I don't really know anyone.) I ended up getting a DW717 (10" double bevel compound sliding), since I was able to get a little bit of a deal on it. So anyhow, I want to build this work bench with a drop in it for a couple feet, so I can put the saw in that recess and have the entire workbench as a bed extension for the saw. Sounds like a pretty sweet idea, right? A 16' work bench as a bed extension? Problem is, that nice slide that gives me all the extra depth on this thing means I need a full 24" behind the fence, and and 27" from the very back to the front mounting hole on the base. If I make my bench deeper than I was already planning and push it to 30" deep, that still only gives me a 6" depth from the fence to the edge of the work bench. So I'm just sort of brainstorming what I want to do here. I'm pretty hesitant to make the bench a full 36" deep, since I'm not a tall guy and I'd like to have some shelves and pegboard on the wall behind the bench, and making it that deep severely limits my vertical reach on the wall. Here's what I've got at the moment, with a 30" deep bench and an extremely crude representation of the saw and its fence.  Thoughts/ideas? Should I just scrap the notion of putting this saw in the bench? Should return it and get a non-sliding one since I won't usually need that depth anyhow? I don't really want to do the latter, since I like having growing room and the first time I find myself wanting to put a 45°/45° on an 8" board, I'll wish I still had this one.
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Jul 29, 2012 04:52
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I've got a similar situation with my slider that I haven't gotten around to solving. You could make supports that you could slide or swing out when you need them. That way you wouldn't have to worry with the drop section and could move the saw when you needed hangover on the other side. I know that mathematically I should be able to use set the saw up so it doesn't matter where my hangover is, but dammit sometimes things get confusing. Probably because I have a hangover. edit: Actually, I think I saw a post in WOOD where some guy had recessed his wall between the studs to get more room for his slider. ARE YOU THAT COMMITTED? iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Jul 29, 2012 |
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Jul 29, 2012 05:13
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I thought about centering it so I'd have 8 feet off each side of the blade, but I opted to not break the bench like that since 1) it's a double bevel, and 2) I'm more likely to cut a few feet off the end of a 16' board than I am to cut a 16' board in half. If I do decide to cut a 16' board in half, there's still enough open space off that side of the bench that I could just get an assist from my wife or the kid or the dog or someone. Thought about supports that could drop down or swing out or something. Not sufficiently excited about them yet to start cutting lumber. On a side note, though, I did buy this big ol' stack of 2x4s and a couple sheets of ply today, so once I do settle out this little unexpected detail, I can get right on it.  (That's the cruddy side of the ply, the other is significantly nicer.) e: iwannabebobdylan posted:edit: Actually, I think I saw a post in WOOD where some guy had recessed his wall between the studs to get more room for his slider. ARE YOU THAT COMMITTED? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Jul 29, 2012 |
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Jul 29, 2012 05:22
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You could make dogs for the front out of 1" dowels and just stick them in holes when you need more than a few inches of support. 
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Jul 29, 2012 10:33
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I might just do that, since it'd be pretty simple. Half a dozen dogs and maybe twice as many holes would probably be more than I'd ever need, and wouldn't impact the design of the bench in any significant way. e: Just for kicks, I took some spare closet rod I had hanging around and tried making a dog for the bench, it was pretty drat easy on my table saw. I need thicker than 1" because my work surface is 23/32" and that wouldn't give much left to stick in, but with the rod I had, I was able to make the cut deep enough to be flush with the surface and still have plenty of material left over to keep it strong. Thanks! Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Jul 30, 2012 |
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Jul 29, 2012 18:04
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Thanks for the advice on the bench. While I haven't drilled any ports for said dogs, it's on the agenda, and the bench is basically done. I made the bench a touch deeper and added about an inch of overhang on the front, so even without them, I still get 10" from the fence, which in 99.9% of my use cases is plenty. I'm still going to run some extra outlets along the underside of the workbench for tools that will always be there, like the saw, the vac, the air compressor, grinder, drill press, etc., but that's just frosting at this point. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Aug 6, 2012 |
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Aug 6, 2012 04:21
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Stumbled upon this Japanese woodworkers channel and I am impressed http://www.youtube.com/user/noho91/videos
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Aug 6, 2012 21:51
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Found this while searching for interesting woodworkers on youtube, Stephen Boone of Boone Guitars who also makes and sells mini-hand planes. Here is his detailed how-to vid. Looks like a fun project if only I had a mini-forge. http://youtu.be/rwyKe3iOb8Y http://www.studioboone.com/guitars/fingerplane.html His guitar build logs are pretty interesting as well. Edit, here's his little advertisement showing the size of the plane. 
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Aug 10, 2012 08:06
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Hey y'all. I've got an old guitar neck I've extended to fit an old banjo pot, and by extended I mean glued chunks of scrap wood to the bottom so it's full of huge gaps that'll need filling. I think the only way i'm going to hide this mess is with a thick coat of opaque paint. My past experiences with painting model boats have been... sticky. So i'm not really sure what the best approach would be since guitar necks need to be hard and smoothe for playability.
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Aug 10, 2012 19:11
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Lets Play Arson posted:Hey y'all. I've got an old guitar neck I've extended to fit an old banjo pot, and by extended I mean glued chunks of scrap wood to the bottom so it's full of huge gaps that'll need filling. I think the only way i'm going to hide this mess is with a thick coat of opaque paint. Well you shouldn't have any gaps. The neck must resist a good amount of tension from the strings and simple glued butt joints probably won't be strong enough. The neck will have a steel truss rod you should be careful of so you don't ruin a saw blade cutting through it; unless it came from a classical guitar in which case it will probably bow. You'll also need to cover the gap between the fretboard and banjo head. My temptation would be to use the original neck and make a tenor banjo. There is probably a way to extend it without making it look like rear end especially if you are willing/able to remove the fretboard with heat and gentle persuasion. Most likely though if is a cheap or mass produced neck, the fretboard will be difficult to remove without damage. There may be other ways to cover it, perhaps with veneer but we need to see pictures. I'm guessing the banjo uses a bolt on neck?
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Aug 10, 2012 20:55
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wormil posted:Well you shouldn't have any gaps. The neck must resist a good amount of tension from the strings and simple glued butt joints probably won't be strong enough. The neck will have a steel truss rod you should be careful of so you don't ruin a saw blade cutting through it; unless it came from a classical guitar in which case it will probably bow. You'll also need to cover the gap between the fretboard and banjo head. My temptation would be to use the original neck and make a tenor banjo. Thanks for the help but i've mostly got all that sorted. The heel block has a good bit thickness and the gaps are only near the surface. Plus I did some tests with scrap wood because i'm terrified of steel strings under tension, and the the wood itself breaks before the polyurethane glue bond (the PU glue is pretty fantasic stuff it's just a shame it's so awkward to work with, and potentially carcinogenic). It was supposedly common practise (in England at least) to paint banjo necks black so it might not look too out of place if I did that to hide the mismatching wood and filled gaps. I'm just not well versed on paints and finishes and I want to avoid the neck having a sticky or clingy feeling, and googling around for guitar neck finishes ofc just gives the more traditional ones like staining and nitrocellulose lacquers, but i'm not sure if nitrocellulose would even cling to a thick coat of paint.
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Aug 10, 2012 22:36
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I was given this wood in November of last year and have finally decided to do something with it. I've forgotten what type it is, though. Any ideas? Sorry for the poo poo picture. I'll get a better one once I'm home if that would help. E: Stupid me; I've decided to do something with it, but I'm not sure what. Looking for suggestions. It's about six feet tall, tapers from about 1" to 3-4" in thickness and is unsanded. its all nice on rice fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Aug 16, 2012 |
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Aug 16, 2012 21:03
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Pope Mobile posted:It's about six feet tall, tapers from about 1" to 3-4" in thickness and is unsanded. Most likely it is a sapling around which a vine has grown. Could be any kind of wood, maybe maple. People usually make walking sticks from them. I have one my uncle gave me.
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Aug 17, 2012 06:32
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Prime Gandalf staff material. Coat rack. Dragon lance. Tent pole.
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Aug 18, 2012 17:31
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I make leather wallets and I am looking to barter for a custom wooden tool box. I would trade a few custom wallets (which I value at roughly 50$ a piece) for the box. Just wondering if I would make an rear end of myself asking this from anyone. I am not a great woodworker and I don't know exactly how much work this would involve. here are my crude plans 
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Aug 20, 2012 04:27
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