|
Hi film thread, today is a good day   I should be set for film for quite some time. Also I have to say freestylephoto is the best. I ordered this on sunday and it arrived today (tuesday). California to Ontario in ~2 days!
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 01:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 23:42 |
|
|
Anyone have any experience with a Beseler 23C II enlarger? A guy on the local Craigslist is offering one, complete with negative carriers, baseboard, and a Nikon 50mm lens for $75. Since I'm thinking about doing some wetprinting sometime in the future, I'm considering picking it up at that price.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 01:49
|
|
|
Whoah, how much did you pay in shipping and import on that? I'm thinking about ordering from freestyle too since it's basically the best place with the best selection. If there was any money in it, I'd love to start some kind of Canadian online film order biz 
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 01:49
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:Whoah, how much did you pay in shipping and import on that? I'm thinking about ordering from freestyle too since it's basically the best place with the best selection. I keep telling you: https://www.photo-co.com! If you're going to order from Freestyle, you pretty much have to place a huge order otherwise it's absolute rape on the shipping and duty.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 02:01
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:Whoah, how much did you pay in shipping and import on that? I'm thinking about ordering from freestyle too since it's basically the best place with the best selection. Shipping was $22 for 50 rolls of film, import was $40. All in all it came to about $4.80 a roll which is still cheaper than Henry's charges for a roll of Delta 100, and as you can see I got some dirt cheap Velvia, which costs $13.80 a roll at downtown camera  I have to wonder if there is any money in it, but I think import fee's might kill the business since, as far as I know, there's few if any Canadian film manufacurers.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 02:04
|
|
|
amtrak450 posted:Anyone have any experience with a Beseler 23C II enlarger? A guy on the local Craigslist is offering one, complete with negative carriers, baseboard, and a Nikon 50mm lens for $75. Since I'm thinking about doing some wetprinting sometime in the future, I'm considering picking it up at that price. Thats a great enlarger. I have one, haven't had a chance to use it yet though. Hopefully soon!
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 02:06
|
|
|
Moist von Lipwig posted:Shipping was $22 for 50 rolls of film, import was $40. All in all it came to about $4.80 a roll which is still cheaper than Henry's charges for a roll of Delta 100, and as you can see I got some dirt cheap Velvia, which costs $13.80 a roll at downtown camera It's $4.49 at photo-co. Seriously, I keep telling people to order from there, but it's like no one listens.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 02:32
|
|
|
 I never don't listen, I just forget about it  edit: Also their selection seems smaller
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Jul 14, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 02:47
|
|
|
Okay, finally lugged my 5D1 into work so I could take a picture of the 5D2 slide digitizing setup I made (well I designed it and picked out all the stuff we needed, my boss went ahead and built it overnight without me  ) Here I am pre-focusing on a slide. LiveView is really, really drat indispensable to have for copy work, I would hate doing this on my mk1. Rather than turning the barrel of the lens to focus at this close of range (which sets everything a-jiggle), I adjust the distance of the camera platform to the slide stage with the geared rail mechanism. It basically works like an old-style slide copying setup would work; I'm actually using an OM Slide Copier for part of it ($16 BGN @ KEH). The lens is an old Olympus mount Vivitar Series-1 90mm f/2.5 Macro with the 1:1 adapter (it's a good lens, Vivitar hasn't always made crap), which we picked up on KEH in BGN for $150 a while back for another project.  Here's the whole thing. The camera is sitting on a generic Chinese 4-way macro rail. You could probably get away with a 2-way, but the 4-way makes it easier to set up (cranking it all the way over to one side makes it a lot easier to get the tripod screw threaded in) and gives me the peace of mind that I'll never have to re-drill anything. The backlight is admittedly overkill; I picked up an old dentist X-ray viewer for $20 on Craigslist and I figured I might as well use the biggest, diffuse-est light source I had, even though the OM slide copying attachment also has a little diffusion panel built in. It makes it easier to see the slides as I'm dusting them off and loading them too. Added a fancy custom bellows to keep out stray glare/reflections.  This is where the slide goes in. The back panel that holds it actually slides up and down on its own little pair of rails, so that gives you vertical adjustment. Pushing the slides all the way down gives you a consistent vertical position, and the stage itself holds it flat so you have the same focal distance, but there's still some horizontal wiggle room on the stage, I guess to accommodate different size slide mounts. For that reason, I don't shoot at true 1:1, because it would take too long to get each one positioned just right.  (This is a really grungy example, most of them clean off much nicer) I've been shooting tethered with DSLR Remote Pro (thanks 15-day free trial version  ). I leave a LiveView window open to help me line up the slide properly before I take the picture, and the directory I'm saving them into so I can copy down any info on the slides themselves (date, location, subject, etc) into the file name, which will later be cleaned up, expanded, and find its way into a database as metadata. If it weren't for the metadata I could really fly through these things; all you do is drop it in, maybe give it a tap on either side to level it out while looking at LiveView on your monitor, hit spacebar, remove, repeat. Not the most exciting way to spend a workday, but news/audiobooks help it fly by. Sorry to cocktease, but I don't have any samples/comparisons yet; I don't have PS on this computer and TBH I'm not sure how sharp these are to begin with (Kodachromes shot on vacation in the 50's-70's by a definite non-pro). From what I've looked at in Paint it seems promising though, although it's hard to tell without any sharpening applied like my scanner automatically does. If any of you digitization whizzes want to suggest some good scanner settings for comparison, let me know. I've got Epson Scan on my V500 at home, and Silverfast on work's V750's. Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Jul 14, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 03:30
|
|
|
This can also be done with a strobe my awesome example (not used for slides in slide frame holder things, used for film strips)  (this has since been updated and the film stands alone on a lightstand of its own) edit: oh and now i use some diffusion panels
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 04:21
|
|
|
I've been developing my B&W with D-76 or Diafine but I wanted to try out some other developers. I got a bottle of Rodinal in yesterday and man is it bitter! I can see why you guys dilute it so much!  But seriously, I can't find any good examples of this; what is the advantage of developing my Tri-X for a long time at 1:100 over a shorter time at 1:50. Will I really notice much of a difference or will it take the analog equivalent of pixel peeping to see anything?
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 05:41
|
|
|
1:100 stand development is used for it's compensating effect.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 05:50
|
|
|
RustedChrome posted:I've been developing my B&W with D-76 or Diafine but I wanted to try out some other developers. I got a bottle of Rodinal in yesterday and man is it bitter! I can see why you guys dilute it so much! I believe that longer development times tend to give you nicer midtones while shorter ones give you stronger highlights. In about 5 minutes someone's going to come in and tell me why I'm wrong though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 05:50
|
|
|
Posting in here reminds me, I need to go see if I can find some film for this thing: 
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2010 15:20
|
|
|
the posted:Posting in here reminds me, I need to go see if I can find some film for this thing: http://www.centralcamera.com/Film/Film-for-Older-Cameras/Type-116-Black-White-Film/ Or you can take a look at the links on this page and get creative.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2010 03:35
|
|
|
Yeah, I've heard I could slightly modify it for A120 film, right?
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2010 17:33
|
|
|
I got some pictures of some of the things I ended up with. Everything seems to be in good shape so far:          The enlarger seems to work, but the red plastic filter is broken off. I'm going to try and borrow some space to setup a studio. Maybe I'll get a darkroom going as well.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2010 00:15
|
|
|
Any tips on respooling beyond what a tutorial would tell me? I'm putting some 120 on 620 spools for an old box camera. I know I need to do this in the dark, but will a safelight be okay?
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2010 00:31
|
|
|
Tshirt Ninja posted:I know I need to do this in the dark, but will a safelight be okay? No.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2010 00:44
|
|
|
Tshirt Ninja posted:Any tips on respooling beyond what a tutorial would tell me? I'm putting some 120 on 620 spools for an old box camera. I know I need to do this in the dark, but will a safelight be okay? No lights at all. Might wanna sacrifice a roll to practice in the light with.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2010 00:44
|
|
|
Tshirt Ninja posted:Any tips on respooling beyond what a tutorial would tell me? I'm putting some 120 on 620 spools for an old box camera. I know I need to do this in the dark, but will a safelight be okay? Just trim around the edge of the 120 spool with a nail clipper. You'll still need a 620 spool for the take-up side, but there's usually no need to respool.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2010 00:51
|
|
|
FasterThanLight posted:Just trim around the edge of the 120 spool with a nail clipper. You'll still need a 620 spool for the take-up side, but there's usually no need to respool. That does not work with all 620 cameras. My Anscoflex requires the spool to be a bit shorter than the 120 version. The film size may be the same but the spool is a lot thinner.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2010 02:08
|
|
|
FasterThanLight posted:Just trim around the edge of the 120 spool with a nail clipper. You'll still need a 620 spool for the take-up side, but there's usually no need to respool. Stregone posted:No lights at all. Might wanna sacrifice a roll to practice in the light with.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2010 04:35
|
|
|
Crossposted from the Olympus thread... I have an Olympus OM-20 / OM-G, which works perfectly except it won't trigger a flash. I've tried Auto, Manual, and B, with various shutter speeds and apertures, I've tried the hotshoe and the PC sync port with various flashes. I've tried cleaning the contacts and replacing the camera batteries. Is it possible that my camera is just broken or am I doing it wrong? I remember it worked when it went into the storage crate...
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2010 05:57
|
|
|
poo poo, I think I made a mistake respooling. Instead of unraveling it off the 120 entirely and then starting over and putting it back on the 620, I transferred it directly from the 120 to the 620. Is this going to make a difference? It worked so well, too e. Will this be remedied by unspooling it all the way, then rolling it all to the other end without a spool, then spooling it? Is that too much film handling? I was wondering why it wasn't taped to the backing paper at the end... agh. e. Or! Or or or. I could just transfer it again straight from this spool to another 620. I'm collecting my thoughts here, don't mind me... Tshirt Ninja fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Jul 17, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2010 01:22
|
|
|
Managed to miss including the second link, blame the AmbienGWBBQ posted:Or you can take a look at the links on this page and get creative.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2010 01:34
|
|
|
Tshirt Ninja posted:poo poo, I think I made a mistake respooling. Instead of unraveling it off the 120 entirely and then starting over and putting it back on the 620, I transferred it directly from the 120 to the 620. Is this going to make a difference? It worked so well, too The end that was closest to the spool on the original roll needs to be there when you finish. This is because the film is only taped to the paper on one side and if you run it through backwards it will probably jam up inside your camera. I learned this the hard way when I was on the road and my camera broke. I thought I'd just run it back through the camera backwards so I could use the roll in another body. Bye bye Velvia.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2010 02:21
|
|
|
I developed a case of nostalgia when a professor had an intern use one of our computers to scan slides of various scientific stuff, about 2/3 of it on Kodachrome. I bought two rolls of Kodachrome and fixed up my rangefinder instead of putting it off because I'll never have another chance to do it. I have a few pictures I plan to shoot but the rest will be whatever I come across. I don't think I've ever been as anxious for something to arrive as I am for these two rolls of film. At least the developing process for Tech Pan (the next retro film I'm trying) will still exist after this year.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2010 02:37
|
|
|
I hope you enjoy using the Kodachrome and that it works out really well for you. I've one roll remaining and I don't know what to do with it. Or more exactly, I've got options but can't decide which to choose from them. But I'm tempted just to put it in the Nikkormat with an old Nikkor 50 and take it out walking over the next few months.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2010 03:57
|
|
|
Okay, I have this old Kodak Series II camera and some 120 film. How the hell do I spool it? I don't have a dark room. It looks like I'm supposed to spool the film entirely around this wooden rod, and then wind it back on the original plastic spool the film came on.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2010 01:35
|
|
|
oncearoundaltair posted:I hope you enjoy using the Kodachrome and that it works out really well for you.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2010 05:32
|
|
|
oncearoundaltair posted:I hope you enjoy using the Kodachrome and that it works out really well for you. Take it some place with a wide range of deep colors!
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2010 05:44
|
|
|
the posted:Posting in here reminds me, I need to go see if I can find some film for this thing: I've got an old Kodak Folding Rainbow Hawkeye Special, also a 116 camera. It already had a 116 spool in the takeup side, so I've been reusing that. For the supply side, I've managed to get 120 film into it after screwing around with some stuff in my room: 1) Grab a pair of empty 35mm film canisters. 2) Cut the bottoms off of them, then file down any rough spots. These should be just about the same diameter as the flanges of a 116 spool. 3) Glue each plastic disk to a quarter. 4) Use double-sided tape or whatever to secure the disk+quarter stack to the two ends of your 120 film roll. This should now be as tall as a 116 roll. 5) Jam that mess in! 6a) Use some black tape to block off the lower third of the red counter window. You'll still get some light leaks coming through that, though, since it sits just at the edge of 120 film. Shoot on frames 3, 6, 9, 12, and 15 (I think)... the frame count numbers you'll see in the window are for 6x6 negatives, but you're probably going to be getting 6x11 negatives if your camera is like mine. 6b) Alternately, run a scrap 120-backing paper through it, count the number of winder turns it takes to hit the right frames, memorize those, then block the red window off completely. That number changes as you get further into the roll, so test the whole thing. 7) Unload in a changing back or absolute darkness, then respool onto a 120 roll for development. If you don't already have a 116-roll for takeup, you'll have to lengthen another 120 spool (maybe wood or styrofoam) and leave a notch in the top of the spacer for the winding key. I'll edit in a few samples from that camera later today if I've still got the scans laying around... 6x11 is a pretty strange aspect ratio. If anyone's interested, I could probably set up a photo tutorial of that modification process too. VV 120 film IS too small, that's why you need to make spacers to hold it in place. Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Jul 18, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2010 11:01
|
|
is go
|
I'll try, but I will probably need that since I am a novice here. I picked up some A120 film, and it looks too small. I also can't figure out how I'm supposed to load it into the camera without exposing the entire roll.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2010 20:27
|
|
|
Dr. Cogwerks posted:I've got an old Kodak Folding Rainbow Hawkeye Special, also a 116 camera. It already had a 116 spool in the takeup side, so I've been reusing that. For the supply side, I've managed to get 120 film into it after screwing around with some stuff in my room: This is some funny timing. I just picked up a No 2A Folding Cartridge Premo (mentioned it in the Medium Format thread since it's the thread for this stuff) and I'm working on doing a permanent mod to 120 feed. So far I've accomplished: 1. Use acetone or denatured alcohol, q-tips, and tweezers to get the leather up. Cover the old red window with black Gorilla Tape on both sides. 2. Drill out the old rivets holding the wooden blocks in, also remove the feed roll tensioner that falls out. 3. Flip the metal endparts on the 116 spool around, slide them out just a smidge. Looks like about 63mm to my eyes which is what I measure my 120 spools at. I may have to sacrifice a roll to get precise measurements, then I will glue it in place. This means I don't have to mod the takeup system nor unload in a darkroom. I've designed a new mechanism for the feed spool:  This should let me rewind the film if I want, or more importantly tension the film against the gate by turning both wind knobs in opposite directions. Still left to do: 1. Drill a hole in the exact center of the body 3cm from the takeup side of the film gate. Cut a new green window (red is for ortho film, green is for pan) from green acrylic, glue it in place. Cover the inside with a second green window to ensure the hole doesn't scratch the film 2. Finish centering and installing the film feed system, locate some loctite, and glue it all together. (3.) It seems like the 116 spool can just fall out if you don't have it upright. If this poses a problem I may just rip out the 116 takeup and try to rig a 120 takeup. (4.) If film flatness poses an issue I may need to mess with the film tension spring clip or make a new feed roll tensioner out of a spring clip. If I manage to make this work I'll have a 6x11 camera using the 6x6 numbers. You would shoot the odd numbers only. I wouldn't do this for just any old triplet but this camera has a Bausch & Lomb Rapid Rectilinear that I want to mess with. So far I have a grand total of $10 invested in this camera, so if it doesn't work no major loss. I'm assisted by the fact that all of the functional elements of this camera are mounted in a frame that can be removed from the camera body, which makes it really easy to work on.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2010 21:57
|
|
|
My dad upgraded to digital recently with a Canon 40D and then after dropping it into the ocean, a 50D. He gave me his old Canon F-1 and the lenses and accessories he'd accumulated over the years.  Apologies in advance: I don't know terminology at all. There's a 205mm zoom lens, another 300mm zoom, a 24mm wide angle, with a 55mm lens on the body there. I've also got a giant-rear end russian telephoto, but my dad's borrowing it. It's also got a power winder F, a Canon speed finder, a really nice light meter with some accessories of its own, an attachment to double whatever lens is attached, and some extra viewfinder screens. It also all came in this really nice old canvas camera bag with a pull-out smaller lens bag. I love love love it all, and am trying my best to learn to use everything. The camera itself is a Montreal 1976 Olympic edition body, which is neat. It has a built-in light meter, but I was impatient and bought a few rolls of film on my home from picking it up from him that night and shot lots of photos. I've since bought batteries for the camera's meter and the handheld meter as well, so future shots should be even better. I've never used a camera like this before, but have a cursory understanding of the basic principles of exposure, aperture and whatever else, so I just sort of guessed, or used my digital point-n-shoot as a meter. Here are some of my favourites, which I don't think turned out too bad for a first-time ignorant hobbyist:          This camera's pretty big and bulky but it's got me obsessed and fascinated with film and once I know what I'm doing I want to find something smaller and more easily portable, because this poo poo's heavy as gently caress.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2010 05:35
|
|
|
MIRV Griffin posted:My dad upgraded to digital recently with a Canon 40D and then after dropping it into the ocean, a 50D. I'm not familiar with the F-1 (not every camera has this feature), but see if you can dig up a manual to find out if it has mirror lock-up. It flips the mirror up on the first shutter press, then take the picture on the second, reducing vibration; not useful for action shots, but really helpful for making those moon shots sharper. Also, what's the max aperture on the 55mm? (f/1.2, f/1.4, etc?) You might want to crawl down the rangefinder rabbit-hole if you like 35mm but don't want something quite as bulky as an SLR. It's a different sort of beast, but has its advantages.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2010 06:22
|
|
|
Greetings. I've heard good things about Ektar 100 and decided to satisfy my curiosity by trying it out myself. Click here for the full 1544x1024 image.  Click here for the full 1544x1024 image.  Click here for the full 1544x1024 image.  Click here for the full 1544x1024 image. This event was an exercise for me - I'm not primarily an action photographer. The Gooniest Goon fucked around with this message at 11:15 on Jul 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2010 11:05
|
|
|
Zombotron posted:Greetings. I've heard good things about Ektar 100 and decided to satisfy my curiosity by trying it out myself... Ektar is really nice. I highly recommend it with weird older cameras... these two are from using Ektar in an old (and kinda leaky/flaring) East German Praktica:  
Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Jul 19, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2010 13:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 23:42 |
|
|
Pompous Rhombus posted:I'm not familiar with the F-1 (not every camera has this feature), but see if you can dig up a manual to find out if it has mirror lock-up. It flips the mirror up on the first shutter press, then take the picture on the second, reducing vibration; not useful for action shots, but really helpful for making those moon shots sharper. I just checked the manual and tried that out, works nicely... thanks for the tip! I want to get into astrophotography when I have more time and money, though from what I've seen it looks like DSLR's are better suited. The max aperture on the 55mm is 1.2. Reading about rangefinders now; they look pretty nice... definitely more in line with what I'd want handy.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2010 14:58
|
|