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My button polyps haven't opened in a month. After some internet investigating I decided to do a iodine dip. Here's a picture of this poor sack of coral. My aquarium store guy said the dip might not do much of anything. I'm thinking it is worth a shot. Doesn't hurt to try. I also noticed on the underside two lesions where this very purple stuff is growing/existing. It is very hard and very purple. Not coralline algae purple, but bright purple, purple. Anyone know what the purple stuff is per chance?   Edit- Oh. I couldn't ask the store what the purple stuff was because I found it after I bought the dip and was back at home. So the dip killed some little shrimps and a couple bristle worms. RIP shrimps. I'm sorry you were killed. I like to think you died for the greater good. Warsteiner fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 15:56
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| # ? May 26, 2024 19:05 |
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Warsteiner posted:My button polyps haven't opened in a month. After some internet investigating I decided to do a iodine dip. I've found that zoas and palys are nowhere near as bulletproof as is typically expected. They can sometimes be very sensitive to the activity of sessile inverts; it's possible the bristleworms were irritating them into closing, or that one of your hermits is regularly walking over them and causing them to close up. Not sure about the purple stuff - definitely looks like coralline algae to me (it can indeed be bright purple). Could it just be the rock showing through, or is it something actually growing on the flesh of the button polyps?
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Apr 28, 2014 00:52
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Castaign posted:Not sure about the purple stuff - definitely looks like coralline algae to me (it can indeed be bright purple)  ah excellent. Thanks.I definitely agree that palys are sensitive, or this one is. My hermits do crawl all over it, they are climbers and there is no safe place in my tank from not only the hermits but bristles, little shrimp guys and whatever else may roam around freely. I'm doing some intentional aquascaping so we'll see how it does after some iodine treatment and moving.
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Apr 29, 2014 15:00
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So I'm pretty determined to setup a 65 gallon tank for a rectangle humu. My experience is mostly freshwater but I've kept a pair of clownfish alive and happy for 5 years now so I have a little experience. Obviously with a trigger most inverts and corals are out the window but what equipment would I need for FOWLR setup beyond the normal power filter and heater?
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May 1, 2014 13:42
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Dantu posted:So I'm pretty determined to setup a 65 gallon tank for a rectangle humu. My experience is mostly freshwater but I've kept a pair of clownfish alive and happy for 5 years now so I have a little experience. Obviously with a trigger most inverts and corals are out the window but what equipment would I need for FOWLR setup beyond the normal power filter and heater? A much larger tank would probably be required, as these guys can get up to 12 inches long. Live Aquaria lists minimum tank size as 180 gallons, and a lot of the other stuff that I've seen online indicates 90 gallon+. Other than that - my understanding is that triggers, like puffers, are messy eaters, so quality filtration is a must.
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May 1, 2014 15:59
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Thanks. I read an article stating that this trigger species in particular grows slowly, especially after they hit 5 inches. I will look into appropriate tank size more, though. Would a hang on tank filter be sufficient or would I need more specialized stuff, ie wet/dry and/or a protein skimmer?
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May 1, 2014 20:54
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Dantu posted:Thanks. I read an article stating that this trigger species in particular grows slowly, especially after they hit 5 inches. Get yourself a protein skimmer. A hang on filter or something like that would work but you want a protein skimmer. Look around on Craiglist or the reefcentral classified forums. If all you're doing is fish then live rock, a protein skimmer and water changes is alls you need.
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May 1, 2014 21:02
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 Any guesses as to what's growing on my torch's skeleton? They don't appear to move at all.
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May 7, 2014 04:18
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Slugworth posted:
Sponges of some kind by the looks of it. Or tunicates, either way probably harmless.
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May 7, 2014 04:41
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Any advice on heaters?
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May 8, 2014 23:28
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SniperWoreConverse posted:Any advice on heaters? Buy two! So if one fails you don't loose everything! Also look at the ones that have a thermal cut off cause mixing up a water change and leaving it on will shatter a normal one pretty fast. Ask me how I know! So water is now circulating in my riverreef 94 woop woop Trying prodibio and will review it as I see fit.
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May 8, 2014 23:59
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so what about titaniums? Worth it? Waste? Should I get a separate controller? Are inlines dumb?
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May 9, 2014 00:08
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SniperWoreConverse posted:so what about titaniums? Worth it? Waste? Just buy two heaters. I've got the e200 fluvals I think and they're awesome.
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May 9, 2014 00:15
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Sounds good to me. Now, I suppose I should hook all this poo poo up to GFCI. But this is at work, so while I can probably get away with rewiring a socket when no one's looking, it's not something I want to do at all. So should I get one of those extension cords that have it? Just say gently caress it and spray the breaker box down with salt mix?
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May 9, 2014 00:34
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SniperWoreConverse posted:Sounds good to me. Spray all the electronics. Honestly, if you're in an office environment, chances are the breakers are GFCI already, so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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May 9, 2014 00:39
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Haha, dude not in this dump. At least they don't have visible test buttons or anything like that. E: Actually now that I'm back in this tread and remember: I still cannot find poo poo for getting shoal grass, but I was reading up on the requirements. Everything I saw indicates either "old as poo poo 'mature' substrate" or "enriching" the substrate with either mineralized soil or some other kind of fertilizer. Obviously this is a new tank with new substrate, and I strongly doubt the wisdom of pouring miracle grow in there, and I didn't really plan ahead enough to mineralize any soil, so would it be insane to pump the huge amount of mulm I have in my freshwater system? This was from an experimental aquaponics setup I had. My goal with that was to break down vegetable food scraps (more corn husks and uncooked stuff like that) and have it provide nutrients to actively growing plants. Because of some bullshit that came up I was never able to set up the plants part of the system to my liking, and I won't be able to for the foreseeable future. I basically have a good amount of mineralized snail poo poo I could work into the sand if I wanted to. I figure the salt shock would kill any pathogens in there. Too radical? I was hoping to go for a heavily planted tank. It's not something I've really seen that much of in the saltwater world. And on sand: I was thinking a mix of silica and aragonite. I already have this very fine sand laying around doing nothing. I'd save some $$ using it.
SniperWoreConverse fucked around with this message at 00:55 on May 9, 2014 |
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May 9, 2014 00:43
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SniperWoreConverse posted:so what about titaniums? Worth it? Waste? I'm using a ViaAqua titanium heater and strongly recommend it... so far. It's got a remote probe and digital readout, and it's very cheap compared to heaters with similar options. Only been running it for a couple months so I can't speak to durability but it is so far the most accurate heater I have ever run. Temp doesn't fluctuate more than 0.2-0.3 degrees.
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May 9, 2014 02:23
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SniperWoreConverse posted:so what about titaniums? Worth it? Waste? I'm running a JBJ True Temp 500 Watt Titanium with controller. It's probably the one part of my setup that I've been the least impressed with. In three years I've gone through two heating elements, two controllers and three temperature probes. For a product that retailed at $200 when I bought it, I would expect a higher level of reliability. That being said, yes, you do want a separate controller. When heaters fail, they may fail by stopping to work, or they may fail by running continuously and cooking your livestock. The separate controller provides a degree of insurance against the latter.
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May 9, 2014 02:36
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SniperWoreConverse posted:Haha, dude not in this dump. At least they don't have visible test buttons or anything like that. It's difficult to imagine this working out as anything other than an out of control algae infestation but it might be an interesting experience for you. I have found that money saving cost cutting efforts on saltwater aquariums end up costing me a lot more money in the long run so I wouldn't recommend the silica sand since that feeds sponge growth which can be problematic when it is extreme.
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May 9, 2014 18:48
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uuuh so I mixed some aragonite with ro/di water and I think it was a big mistake, It's completely chalky and kind of foamy almost like the water is dissolving the sand or something. Was I supposed to do the salt first? If I add salt will it fix itself? Do I just need to filter the hell out of it?
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May 11, 2014 23:36
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SniperWoreConverse posted:uuuh so I mixed some aragonite with ro/di water and I think it was a big mistake, It's completely chalky and kind of foamy almost like the water is dissolving the sand or something. Was I supposed to do the salt first? If I add salt will it fix itself? Do I just need to filter the hell out of it? Yeah that shouldn't happen if it is pure RODI water which is pH-less so not acidic. Lots of people start up tanks by adding sand and rock then filling with RODI water. If you filled it really quickly then I guess there could be foam just from air being displaced by the water but sand dissolving is another thing entirely. Any mechanical filtration will help clear the water. Add salt and get it to your desired salinity, then turn on your protein skimmer (you have one, right?); otherwise the skimmer will overflow as you adjust/increase salinity.
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May 12, 2014 01:41
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SniperWoreConverse posted:uuuh so I mixed some aragonite with ro/di water and I think it was a big mistake, It's completely chalky and kind of foamy almost like the water is dissolving the sand or something. Was I supposed to do the salt first? If I add salt will it fix itself? Do I just need to filter the hell out of it? I've regularly had this happen when I add water to aragonite. The cloudiness will fade after a few days.
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May 12, 2014 17:26
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hey thanks for the advice everyone, it's working out great so far what do you all do for live rock? I don't really have good fish stores around me, if I order some won't it cost like $30,000 and be dead when it shows up?
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May 14, 2014 01:22
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SniperWoreConverse posted:hey thanks for the advice everyone, it's working out great so far Look for local reef clubs perhaps, maybe there's a monthly meetup or something? Also, with live rock, when you put it in your tank and the chemistry it's used to is gone 90% of the biomass is going to die off anyway, that's what cycling the tank is, so you wouldn't be at too much of a loss. Most of the good stuff tends to be more resilient than that anyhow. e: where are you located?
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May 14, 2014 01:24
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NE Ohio
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May 14, 2014 01:25
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Maybe reefcentral? *shudder*
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May 14, 2014 01:26
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Man, I forget how lucky I am to be living in South Florida sometimes. I just bought a condo and theres a saltwater shop literally right next to it. I'm actually waiting to move in and save for a month or so to do my retro LED upgrade for the Nano Cube. My duncan is probably up too high after I moved it and rarely extends its polyps during the day. I think the more controllable range of the LEDs will help in conjunction with whatever reworking I do of the live rock after moving the tank. Speaking of that - any advice on moving my fish and corals? This place is really just 5 minutes down the road from where I live now, so I was thinking a big tub for most of the live rock and bags for corals and the fish (which I will catch with a cup and not a net since its a maroon clownfish). I'll be using mostly the same water but I am worried about a mini-cycle from whatever decides to die off from moving stress. You guys think just being really zealous with water changes will cover me?
Incredulous Dylan fucked around with this message at 02:44 on May 14, 2014 |
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May 14, 2014 02:16
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Get a battery powered air pump and go to town. 5 minutes should be barely any dieoff.
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May 14, 2014 20:53
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The only die-off you'll probably see is from sponges that get exposed to air when you move the rock to your transport vessel of choice. You can avoid even that by putting any rocks with sponge on it in a small container, underwater in the tank, (Has to fit in the tank, and in the bucket,) and moving them into the bucket full of tank water while completely submerged. (I like five gallon homer buckets from Home Depot, for a smallish tank.) My fish store thought I was loving nuts when I asked them to put the live rock into my buckets full of seawater when I set my tank up, but who has two thumbs and never had a detectable cycle? This guy. If transit will be less than half an hour, I wouldn't even bother with the air pump. With a ~30gal tank, moving every drop of tank water is pretty easy.
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May 14, 2014 23:39
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My thought with the pump is that then he has extra breathing room before and after transit, as it were. Things come up with moves.
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May 15, 2014 17:34
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I agree, an air pump is a good idea even if it is '5 minutes'. Oxygen depletion is the biggest problem on long trips since you don't have water movement otherwise. You probably don't have to deal with temperature issues down in Florida, but keeping things above 76 degrees is probably the second most important. Battery powered air pump is a good backup for power outages too.
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May 15, 2014 17:57
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Thanks for all of the ideas! The tank will be the last thing I move, so hopefully everything will be in place for it to just be plopped in and refilled/stocked. The new condo is just a few streetlights down from where I live now and I'm planning a blitz here 
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May 15, 2014 18:22
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I did a move with a 30 gallon, probably 2 hours of time from tank torn down to tank refilled, no die off, no problems, just transport everything submerged in tank water. It was a very, very stable tank though.
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May 15, 2014 18:42
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What I guess I am actually worried about is the sand bed stirring up and releasing god knows what from the depths. Tank has only been active now for something like three months so hopefully there hasn't been build up time yet.
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May 15, 2014 19:03
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Incredulous Dylan posted:What I guess I am actually worried about is the sand bed stirring up and releasing god knows what from the depths. Tank has only been active now for something like three months so hopefully there hasn't been build up time yet. A tank move is also a great time to throw your old sand away, and put fresh sand in the tank. Particularly in a smaller tank, where fresh sand isn't a $150 decision.
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May 15, 2014 19:26
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Ugh, so I've got a nudibranch problem. Things in my tank have been going swimmingly for the last several months except my zoas never seem quite happy. They'll be good for a few weeks and then look slightly lovely for a while then perk back up. I've got about 10 different little colonies around the tank from a 40+ polyp BamBam colony to a couple frags of blue hornets and whatnot. Anyhow my wife has pretty keen eyes and noticed a nudi on of the yellow zoas up front. The fucker had basically turned the same color as the zoa itself and we noticed this a couple more times with different colored polyps. We've pulled out 6 so far. Best I can do right now is to suck them out as I see them but they are hard as gently caress to find. Whats really annoying is we are pretty careful about every new addition to the tank. I rarely add new things and when I do I go out of my way to dip them in Revive and I observe the frag plug to make sure nothing unwanted is getting in the tank but apparently I didn't check well enough. poo poo man I've been reading about some of the techniques to get rid of them and pretty much all of them agree on pulling the zoas out of the tank to dip them. I can do that with maybe half of my zoas but a bunch of the larger colonies are established on main structural rock pieces in the tank that I can't easily pull out. visuvius fucked around with this message at 20:58 on May 15, 2014 |
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May 15, 2014 20:48
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Last time I did a move I forgot the inferno nem in the truck for like 3 hours. Must have pissed it off pretty bad because the next day there were two!
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May 15, 2014 21:13
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I wish I had terrible luck like you, Sanchez.
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May 15, 2014 22:07
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So, there's something living inside one of my zoanthids frags... http://youtu.be/DnLS6t1CoTs 
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May 16, 2014 18:03
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Castaign posted:I've regularly had this happen when I add water to aragonite. The cloudiness will fade after a few days. Yeah this is what happened, I don't know why I was freaking out over it. I set up this bullshit hang on back filter I happened to have laying around. Apparently it got completely clogged with silt/sediment/whatever, and it was running for a while just dumping water all over the office. Luckily the place didn't burn down and there's no damage to anything. Those fuckers were there for hours and somehow never realized what was happening. As soon as I walked in the door I knew something was up. Anyway if I get a real rear end canister filter, can I be fairly sure that it'll just stop working instead of dumping the water out the back like that?
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May 16, 2014 19:06
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