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Ahh, the brave T-61. One of the greatest examples of the Earth Federation's ingenuity! Why, one of these will surely remain in my collection forev--  oh. Still a WIP, but it's close enough to show off! 
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Apr 6, 2015 05:13
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Put all the parts together that got that arn't going to get decals and I found that the joints for the arm were too tight and sheered. Overall it looks great, gonna get another kit and mask better. I might end up needing the extra decals anyway and if anything else gets broke.
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Apr 6, 2015 07:45
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Tenzarin posted:Put all the parts together that got that arn't going to get decals and I found that the joints for the arm were too tight and sheered. Overall it looks great, gonna get another kit and mask better. I might end up needing the extra decals anyway and if anything else gets broke. I can't identify this and it's breaking my brain.
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Apr 6, 2015 09:45
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Looks like a Wing inner frame, probably Heavyarms.
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Apr 6, 2015 09:55
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 The dude I found a Kyrios for finished building it and his Virtue.  I think his Dynames is the only one he's outright done with (Kyrios and Virtue need lining/painting, Exia is getting converted into Avalanche Exia), but it's a pretty neat group shot.
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Apr 6, 2015 10:11
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Xy Hapu posted:Looks like a Wing inner frame, probably Heavyarms. I knew someone would be able to tell what it was just by the inner frame.
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Apr 6, 2015 15:14
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Do you put foil stickers on before or after topcoating with matte varnish? I'd rather put them down before so that the varnish takes away some of the shine, but I don't want it to interact badly with the adhesive or something.
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Apr 6, 2015 16:36
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Bah. You finally got me. Delivery due between march 12 and 26th. Trip report! My tallgeese from dragon momoko arrived with a strange quasi-religious hand written note thanking me for my patronage and reminding me to endeavor to be a better person with love in my heart or something. Despite being in perfect english, I find it completely incomprehensible. The instructions are reasonably well laid out, with text in japanese (which seems correct but I'm super-rusty at this point--the last time I put together a model like this was in the early 90s, and my japanese was never great to begin with). The instructions admonish me to make sure that the pieces are pretty. About 3/4s of the way through the first page, I hit a brick wall where it was telling me to get a piece from a the H2 or F1 sprue or something like that, and I had no such sprue (after going over every sprue several times--there's a lot of them, so it took a while for me to be convinced there wasn't such a sprue). It turned out, after I reverted to my 11 year old self (who was apparently better at this) and just looked for a piece that should be the right one, I figured out that, either there is a misprint about which sprue they wanted, or the instructions are for a model that didn't have as many colored pieces. But it worked out--it still had the number right, and I had the piece, so, with the fact that the sprue name might be wrong some times in mind, I forged ahead. The body had a couple plates attached to it which seemed weirdly fragile, in particular, a piece that sort of acts as neck armor, but sits over the neck-peg like a see-saw and doesn't 'stick' in any way. I lost the piece on the carpet a couple times, because any time I jostled the torso while I was doing something, it fell off. The head has instructions which *seem* to tell me to put a transparent piece in for the eyes, and then cover the only visible part of it with a sticker that is shiny and green. I ignored the sticker and just used the green. The face plate doesn't have anything to sit against, so it kind of hovers inside the helmet, and the whole head seems to stay together kind of by accident. There's a thin colors piece that forms the head-dress that's got no mechanical element to the joint, so it really should be glued. I don't know if glue is a thing that's normal to need for these, but I remembered being able to put together kits 20 years ago without it. It was only the older ones that needed glue. In any case, the head and torso, though fragile, still seemed to be alright, and then I got to the arms. At least two pieces in the instructions for the arms were incorrectly labeled. Not just the sprue, but the number as well. There is a weird 3-layer redundant thing going on with the shoulder pads. Actually, let me back up. The joints all need soft plastic pieces to sit inside them, but in most cases, I had to do some serious carving and squeezing to get them to sit flush. I had to use a lot of force, even then, to get joints to fit together, and in general, things don't fit great--even when I carefully trim any flash. The shoulder pad structure is a clamshell that you slide a single whole piece down around, and then push a kind of bow-shaped piece inside, that's supposed to snap into a series of indentations. The result, though is an unhappy sandwich of plastic that doesn't quite fit. The inside piece is being bent oddly by the outside piece squeezing the clamshell too much. This might have made sense if it weren't plastic, or, again, if I used glue, which I'd been able to avoid so far. Anyway, I eventually got to the hand--a further note, the arms are also pretty fragile. The hand is a huge disappointment. I have 4 choices about hand 'pose' that are static; open hand, closed fist, fist with trigger finger, and fist with hole in it for holding the energy whip. The thumb has a ball-socket joint, so it's poseable, but I don't know why they bothered. The hand is a non-starter. It's supposed to attach to the underside of the piece of armor that makes up the top of the hand. It had no mechanical joint, and the slot seems to not be designed to fit the hand piece correctly. When I push it in, it actually pops back out, like it resents its destiny as the fingers of a static hand pose. After some carving, I get it to hang limp and defeated, until a gentle inadvertent bump causes it to fall out. Glue is required at this point, though it seems like the intention behind the design was to be able to easily pop the finger sets in and out, if I wanted to change my mind about what it should be holding. I stuffed everything back into the box. I always wondered by some people never completed gundam models, but I finally get it! I'm trying to decide if its worth getting involved with glue. It's not as if I haven't glued something before--that's not really the point. It's just overall a disappointment. Lesson learned. Bandai next time. It's not like was trying to save money. I just hadn't done a model in years, and thought this one looked cool. Beware, etc.
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Apr 6, 2015 19:55
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Honestly, a decent number of those complaints (eyes, hands, the way the shoulders are assembled, etc) are all from the actual MG Tallgeese!
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Apr 6, 2015 20:12
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Tenzarin posted:I knew someone would be able to tell what it was just by the inner frame. Especially impressive since the inner frames of the Endless Waltz MGs are REALLY similar. (I guessed Sandrock) Anyway, thanks to Easter and bank holidays, the Zaku II RG that should have arrived on Saturday should be here tomorrow 
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Apr 6, 2015 20:19
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BlitzBlast posted:Honestly, a decent number of those complaints (eyes, hands, the way the shoulders are assembled, etc) are all from the actual MG Tallgeese! Weird. So is there a tradeoff with the higher grades where they're more poorly designed on purpose to be a challenge, or amenable to high end modeling stuff that I don't know about? As a kid I just grabbed the middle of the road models for the most part. Though I did make the F91 that was huge and had metal parts. That thing was awesome. And went together pretty easily. I remember the Higogg was probably my favorite model, and despite having all those fiddly parts, it still flexed and posed, and was totally solid. I threw it in duffle bags to take to my friend's house to play and it never broke. If they can do that, it's weird to me that their higher end stuff would be so sketchy.
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Apr 6, 2015 20:54
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It's the scale that makes it different. Look into the 1/100 no grades for 00 gundam. They are basically high grades that look master grade-ish. The no grade Arios doesn't use stickers for color but the high grade does.
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Apr 6, 2015 21:08
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Weird. So is there a tradeoff with the higher grades where they're more poorly designed on purpose to be a challenge, or amenable to high end modeling stuff that I don't know about? The latter. The greater parts count and higher quality engineering mean less unnecessary stickers, hand painting smaller sections is much rarer, and more detail can be expressed. But they're not really for beginners, and so if you go straight into one, you get your experience. Things like the multi-part shoulder armor exist solely so they can have the colors be expressed in a straight build. And to thicken it up a bit so you don't get the same problem you see with shields, being a rather thin single piece of plastic that doesn't look like it could take a hit.
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Apr 6, 2015 21:16
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Ok, I think I get it from that point. But why's the hand set up the way it is? It's all the same color, and it seems like it basically can't stay in place. Should I glue it? Is that typical? I somehow got the impression that at the higher grades, the hands were more articulated, not static. BlitzBlast posted:You're honestly looking at things from the wrong viewpoint. Let's look over some of your comments: 1: I guess I don't understand why you'd block out the only visible part of a clear piece with a sticker that is shiny and the same color. Isn't the purpose of the clear piece to be the visor? I understand stickers on things like a zaku where you want black around the central eye that's a clear piece, but this was going to completely cover up the slit. 2: No, I've built gundam that have layers before. This, specifically, is a set of pieces where, unless they were built to a really high tolerance, won't sit together right--because it's like an inner half-ring, then 2 pieces that snap together in a middle layer, and an outer ring that acts as a clamp. They put pressure on each other that keeps everything from fitting tightly. It would make sense on a larger scale--like it's reminiscent of boat building--but at this level, the pieces just keep each other from sitting flush. 3: Well, it's possible. I'll look again, but the top of the hand has a bilaterally symmetrical female joint and the fingers male counterpart is also bilaterally symmetrical. The difference is just the fingers, and which side the thumb sits. Which, incidentally makes it pretty obvious that I have the fingers right, since if I didn't, the pinky and thumb would touch. If this all sounds normal to you guys, then nevermind, I guess. I struck me as being less impressive than the bandai kits I made when I was a kid. If it's all about the grade difference, that makes some sense. There's places where I clearly see the separate components are serving the job of adding detail. But there are places where they don't seem to be, and are making fitting problems that aren't totally necessary. A friction joint is fine if there's no space for something mechanical, but it still has to actually work as designed, which seems to be a problem in spots. TheCosmicMuffet fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Apr 6, 2015 |
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Apr 6, 2015 21:22
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Weird. So is there a tradeoff with the higher grades where they're more poorly designed on purpose to be a challenge, or amenable to high end modeling stuff that I don't know about? Let me just go over some of your comments in more detail: 1. The eye sticker over a transparent part. This is absolutely the standard for MGs, and mostly so that modelers can be flexible with how they want to paint things. The sticker is for people who just don't want to paint. Also it's surprisingly common for MGs to have stuff that relies solely on friction to hold. Bandai really likes solely relying on friction, even for stuff where they really shouldn't (*cough* V-fins *cough*). 2. By "3-layer redundant thing", I'm assuming you mean the inner frame > shoulder armor > outer details? That is again pretty common with MGs (it's how they get around seams). The fact you had trouble getting stuff to fit is actually kind of odd; normally with third party stuff, the issue is getting things to split apart again. Are you sure you put them in right? 3. The hands are standard for the MG Wing vEW series, and even SEED vRM. It's pretty much Bandai recognizing that for the most part, the previous standard MG hand (thumb, index fingers, three fingers in one piece) both didn't look that good and didn't hold things all that well. Honestly I'd say they're an improvement. Your issues with them sounds like you might have been trying to force the left hand pieces into the right hand part? They're usually pretty particular about that, and trying to force things usually only makes it worse. There are more articulated hands on the MG scale (the Emotion Manipulators you've heard so much about as well as some five fingered hands on stuff like MG RX-78-2 2.0 or Turn A) but they are hilariously unstable. To be honest you're the first person I've ever heard from who's had a complaint with DM. Generally they're regarded as almost being Bandai quality. I remember Taurus in particular being pretty impressed.  Either way, unless you intend to shell out $100+ for the actual Bandai MG Tallgeese III, you probably are better off just doing the necessary touch-ups yourself. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Apr 6, 2015 |
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Apr 6, 2015 21:22
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The only problem I've had with my DM Strike is the hands being a pain in the rear end and the fingers falling off all the time, which is expected considering it was a 1/60 downsized to a 1/100.
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Apr 6, 2015 21:48
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:
I'm really surprised, that not following the manual does not build the model correctly.
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Apr 6, 2015 22:34
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Honestly though, TheCosmicMuffet, if you aren't too keen on the kit, I would take it off your hands, depending on how much you've done, and if it's particularly knackered. Give you some cash to get something that's more up your alley.
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Apr 6, 2015 22:38
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GundamGuy's added a picture apiece of the mix-and-match parts for System weapons 009 and 010. Part of the reason I'm not that big on the rocket launcher SW's is it eats the part budget because of their size. You either get only a few big parts, or it devours the budget for the second weapon altogether and you get bugger-all for it. They're still gonna be nice solid toy parts, I just liked the older system weapon packs that had lots of extra small parts and accessories. That said, I like that the alternate parts for the 010 Strike RPG turns it into a big-rear end RPG  . I might actually even get it to mount on my RG Strike.
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Apr 7, 2015 05:29
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No lie, I like the RPG-7 looking variation for the 010. Only kit I can think of that has a weapon like that is the original HGUC Geara Zulu.
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Apr 7, 2015 05:42
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So learning from last week when I split my thumb with the x-acto, I just put two band-aids on my thumb ahead of time.
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Apr 7, 2015 05:56
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Anyone know of the most recent/which one should I buy for a VOTOMS Scopedog? I saw a model of one at a con a few months ago but didn't pick it up. Not sure Scale wise what to look for.
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Apr 7, 2015 16:38
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Kingtheninja posted:Anyone know of the most recent/which one should I buy for a VOTOMS Scopedog? I saw a model of one at a con a few months ago but didn't pick it up. Not sure Scale wise what to look for. The Bandai 1/20th scale Scopedog is very good. There's also 1/35th models by Wave, but I don't have any experience with them.
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Apr 7, 2015 16:43
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Droyer posted:The Bandai 1/20th scale Scopedog is very good. There's also 1/35th models by Wave, but I don't have any experience with them. The Wave models are ok, but they're way too expensive and just barely above the level of detail of a high grade for 3-4x the price. Go with the Bandai ones. Uznare fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Apr 7, 2015 |
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Apr 7, 2015 16:55
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Yep, the Bandai 1/20 Scopedogs are my favorite Master Grade quality kits. I cannot recommend them enough.
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Apr 7, 2015 17:56
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Would you happen to have a good link to one in a store? None of the ones are listed Bandai on Amazon and a scopedog search in HLJ came up with nothing.
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Apr 7, 2015 19:07
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http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN951922/Sci
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Apr 7, 2015 19:11
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Kingtheninja posted:Would you happen to have a good link to one in a store? None of the ones are listed Bandai on Amazon and a scopedog search in HLJ came up with nothing. I got you covered, bro. Standard version is backordered, but on their site as well, and the Berkoff Squadron version from Pailsen Files is getting an April restock. Edit: Beaten
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Apr 7, 2015 19:11
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Finished this project. Only took nearly a year: Quick and dirty shot. I'll make an effort to take prettier pictures during the daytime at some point over the next few days. I'm assuming people are still interested in my write-ups too?
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Apr 7, 2015 21:42
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That's hot. I'm very interested in your continued write-ups.
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Apr 7, 2015 22:05
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure everyone here likes to read about that sort of thing.
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Apr 7, 2015 22:06
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I should really pick these up, they'd be so fun to weather.
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Apr 7, 2015 22:19
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runwiled posted:Finished this project. Only took nearly a year: What kit is this? It looks awesome.
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Apr 7, 2015 23:18
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dogsicle posted:What kit is this? It looks awesome. Don't know about the giant rifle but that's the Frame Arms Zennrai. I have the Assault type version of that kit. It's pretty rad, just not much colour separation. Luminaflare fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Apr 7, 2015 |
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Apr 7, 2015 23:25
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Luminaflare posted:Don't know about the giant rifle but that's the Frame Arms Zennrai. Thanks, I was curious about the robot rather than the rifle.
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Apr 7, 2015 23:28
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Now I have my second display shelf, I just wanna buy kits I like the look of for display instead of having a theme. Is HG Kshatriya as good a kit as it looks? 
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Apr 7, 2015 23:33
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Now I have my second display shelf, I just wanna buy kits I like the look of for display instead of having a theme. I haven't started on mine yet, so I can't vouch for the actual quality of the kit, but what I can tell you is that it's BIG. The HG Kshatriya comes in a box the size of the MG Qubeley's box.
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Apr 7, 2015 23:35
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Oh, I know it's huge. Apparently it's recommended to use an AB1 for it, because it'll just tip an AB2 over. It'll be going on a shelf with HG The O and HG Silver Bullet, so I seem to have a thing for ridiculous bulky suits.
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Apr 7, 2015 23:37
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Does anyone here have any experience buying from Hobby Wave? They have quite a few kits that are sold out on Gundam Planet (HW has quite a few HG00 kits in stock!) and I was curious about them since I plan on buying some more kits and a marker soon. I live in the U.S. if that helps.
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Apr 7, 2015 23:46
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So i've been working on reorganizing some of my shelves, and got this for a Super Robot collection: Yeah, SOC GaoGaiGar is even more impressive in person than in photos. Runwiled, as soon as you get those photos and writeup done, it'll be going into that second post in the thread. Also, if anyone wants their completed projects put into the second post for display and would like to save me the trouble of going through the whole thread to find them, feel free to post them or link me to the original post.
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Apr 7, 2015 23:46
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