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tumblr hype man
Jul 29, 2008

nice meltdown
Slippery Tilde

PoundSand posted:

I got a couple newbie questions here. I'm lazy and basically just kept pushing my 401k contributions to try to get as close to the cap as I can reasonably handle, of the options my employer's plan provided, I just chose a target date fund that seemed to have reasonable fees. I still however have money left over beyond even just having a safe nest egg in savings and have been eyeing saving more/more efficiently, so I started googling about roth IRAs. From what I gather I can put up to 6k in there a year, and since I haven't filed my taxes yet for last year, I can still put in the 6k from then. Additionally, I am married, so as it's 6k per person, that would be up to 12k for last year. So questions:

1. The 12k for being married part, what are the mechanics of opening a roth IRA for that? Is it just opened like a joint account? Do we both open our own accounts then put 6k individually in them? Could I open up an individual account and put 12k in that if she doesn't have one?

2. Does it matter where I open the account? Like my bank offers a "self directed roth IRA account" and seems p much low/no fee, up to 100 trades/yr with no brokerage fee which seems like more than sufficient for a set it and forget it situation. 25/yr maint fee which I guess is 5 more bucks than vanguard but seems negligible if it's just easier for me to have stuff in the same place.

3. I guess follow up to 2, and this is probably the dumbest question but bear with me I've never bought stocks or anything personally before, does where the account is change in what funds I would have access to? Like could I open an account with my bank and just buy more shares of the same target date fund my 401k is in, or pick up one of vanguard's?

1. It’s an individual retirement account, so you would open one up for yourself and your spouse would open another one for themselves. The limit this year is actually $6,500, thanks inflation.

2. It doesn’t, but I would still caution you against opening one at your bank. The fees add up quickly and aren’t necessarily transparent. Vanguard and Fidelity are both popular options with affordable fees. Vanguard waives the $20 fee is you consent to electronic delivery of the prospectuses for instance.

3. You can buy basically whatever ETFs or Mutual Funds you want through a regular brokerage or IRA brokerage account. Generally you’ll pay less for buying Vanguards funds through a Vanguard account (same for fidelity). Vanguard and Fidelity have basically identical target date funds.

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CubicalSucrose
Jan 1, 2013

Phantom my Opera and call me South Park: Bigger, Longer, & Uncut

PoundSand posted:

I got a couple newbie questions here. I'm lazy and basically just kept pushing my 401k contributions to try to get as close to the cap as I can reasonably handle, of the options my employer's plan provided, I just chose a target date fund that seemed to have reasonable fees. I still however have money left over beyond even just having a safe nest egg in savings and have been eyeing saving more/more efficiently, so I started googling about roth IRAs. From what I gather I can put up to 6k in there a year, and since I haven't filed my taxes yet for last year, I can still put in the 6k from then. Additionally, I am married, so as it's 6k per person, that would be up to 12k for last year. So questions:

1. The 12k for being married part, what are the mechanics of opening a roth IRA for that? Is it just opened like a joint account? Do we both open our own accounts then put 6k individually in them? Could I open up an individual account and put 12k in that if she doesn't have one?

2. Does it matter where I open the account? Like my bank offers a "self directed roth IRA account" and seems p much low/no fee, up to 100 trades/yr with no brokerage fee which seems like more than sufficient for a set it and forget it situation. 25/yr maint fee which I guess is 5 more bucks than vanguard but seems negligible if it's just easier for me to have stuff in the same place.

3. I guess follow up to 2, and this is probably the dumbest question but bear with me I've never bought stocks or anything personally before, does where the account is change in what funds I would have access to? Like could I open an account with my bank and just buy more shares of the same target date fund my 401k is in, or pick up one of vanguard's?

3 -> Yes, it matters. All of Fidelity, Schwab, and Vanguard are fine and should allow just about anything except for edge cases that shouldn't matter (i.e. can only get FZROX at Fidelity but that doesn't actually matter).
3b -> Which target date fund are you in today? It's probably fine but it also might suck, if you list the ticker symbol we can say "Yeah that's good" or "This is about the same but you're not getting hosed on expense ratios."
2 -> Kinda, see above. Fidelity has $0 fee everything (aside from expense ratios) IRAs and HSAs and they're my typical reco. They're also easy to chat with on the phone.
1 -> I stands for "Individual" so you each need your own account. But yes, if you each did $6k from last year and ($6500) each for this year, that's $25k.

Depending on your current tax situation:
A) You might prefer a trad IRA over a Roth (but you PROBABLY don't).
B) You might prefer contribs to a trad 401(k) over a Roth IRA (i.e. company match details or top marginal tax bracket).

PoundSand
Jul 30, 2021

Also proficient with kites
TRPNX is the one through my employer, fees obviously aren't great (though from googling it looks like it could be worse) so I wouldn't be putting more into that one, it was more of an example than anything. I'd probably just go with VFFVX, which if fees are easier if I do a vanguard account than that's what I'd do.

So the three direct answers to my question is:
1. We both open up for ex a vanguard. We can both put 6k in our accounts from last year, then 6.5k this year, or 12.5k total.
2. Just use fidelity or vanguard, everyone always seems to mention vanguard so I suppose from brand recognition I'd go there.
3. Not really but if you're doing something as straightforward as my plan you might as well make the account at the place you're going to get the fund from.

Appreciate the help!

e: as far as roth vs trad my career is sort of still trending upwards atm so I feel like from what basic knowledge I have roth is supposed to be the choice for that. Essentially pay taxes now while in a lower bracket rather than later when I might be in a higher bracket right?

PoundSand fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Mar 16, 2023

drk
Jan 16, 2005
Vanguard does not have any account fees for self directed IRAs (unless you have a low balance and also want paper statements, last I checked).

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

PoundSand posted:

e: as far as roth vs trad my career is sort of still trending upwards atm so I feel like from what basic knowledge I have roth is supposed to be the choice for that. Essentially pay taxes now while in a lower bracket rather than later when I might be in a higher bracket right?

Yes, but not for that reason specifically: more that you may exceed the income limit for a trad IRA at some point, and you'll want to use the Backdoor Roth, but having a trad Roth balance will complicate matters (cost you a one-time tax to convert the trad to a roth).

The tax now vs. later question is about your top marginal rate today vs. your top marginal rate when you are retired, and nobody really knows if taxes will be higher or lower in the future so it's at best an educated guess. Many of use choose to have a traditional 401k and roth IRA as a hedge - basically I'll have some untaxed retirement income and some taxed retirement income, so I won't get totally hosed if taxes go up and I won't have lost out on a great deal if taxes go down.

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
I've seen a lot of VUSXX love in BFC lately, but those of y'all that live in high tax states should be aware that income will not be completely state tax exempt next year due to fund repo purchases.

literally this big
Jan 10, 2007



Here comes
the Squirtle Squad!

Leperflesh posted:

Yes, but not for that reason specifically: more that you may exceed the income limit for a trad IRA at some point, and you'll want to use the Backdoor Roth, but having a trad Roth balance will complicate matters (cost you a one-time tax to convert the trad to a roth).

Backdoor Roth only fucks with Traditional IRAs, correct? So a Traditional 401k does not interfere at all? Does a Traditional IRA/401k effect the Mega Backdoor Roth in the same way?

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:

I've seen a lot of VUSXX love in BFC lately, but those of y'all that live in high tax states should be aware that income will not be completely state tax exempt next year due to fund repo purchases.

Yeah at some point they added this to the fund page: "Important Note: Income generated from investments in repurchase agreements with the federal reserve are generally subject to state and local income taxes."

This matters most in states where 50% or more of a fund must be state tax exempt to take the deduction, though at this point it doesnt look like VUSXX is anywhere close to being below that. Still, its annoying for those trying to avoid state income tax.

Rolling T-bills at treasury direct or a brokerage seems like the best way to be 100% exempt (Vanguard annoyingly has no way to automate this, but other brokers and TD will do it). Apparently even $SGOV was only partially exempt last year.

edit:

One of the responses has the probable reason: "The reason to do repos is to better manage cash flow. I suspect that a lot of money is flowing in these days. Overnight repos provide a lot of liquidity. A lot."

This matches up pretty well with an article I read at FT today that said there were $120B in money market inflows this past week, the highest since 2020.

drk fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Mar 17, 2023

CubicalSucrose
Jan 1, 2013

Phantom my Opera and call me South Park: Bigger, Longer, & Uncut

literally this big posted:

Backdoor Roth only fucks with Traditional IRAs, correct? So a Traditional 401k does not interfere at all? Does a Traditional IRA/401k effect the Mega Backdoor Roth in the same way?

Trad 401k has no impact on Backdoor Roth. Only...Trad IRAs, (and the oddball cases like SIMPLE IRAs and...SEP IRAs (I think?)).

Nothing impacts MegaBackdoor Roth other than (company matches, caps, eligibility...I think).

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

literally this big posted:

Backdoor Roth only fucks with Traditional IRAs, correct? So a Traditional 401k does not interfere at all? Does a Traditional IRA/401k effect the Mega Backdoor Roth in the same way?

The only issue is a traditional IRA. The backdoor process is one where you convert the balance in your your trad IRA to Roth, and you can't only convert money you just deposited, you have to convert your existing balance first. You'll pay income tax on the amount you earned in your trad IRA. The backdoor works because you make a deposit and then immediately convert it, before you've earned anything, and in the same year, so when you file your taxes you won't owe anything extra (you are effectively contributing taxed money).

401ks and other forms of tax-advantaged savings like HSAs, college savings accounts, etc. are not affected. This can be one reason why we may advise someone not to roll over a 401k into a trad IRA when they leave a company: the 401k is pre-tax contributions like a trad IRA so that's what you'd roll it into, but if you might eventually want to do a backdoor Roth, you don't want to have a large balance in a trad IRA.

There are some unusual cases I'm not too familiar with, like an inherited IRA, but that's not important right now anyway.

adnam
Aug 28, 2006

Christmas Whale fully subsidized by ThatsMyBoye
I'd like advise on some portfolio rebalancing. I converted all my traditional IRA into Roth IRA in order to start doing backdoor Roth IRA for both my spouse and I yearly. We both also max out our 401k contributions yearly, and hopefully don't expect to withdraw from Roth or taxable in the near future.

After doing the trad > Roth IRA conversion, I started reading more of this thread and realized my overall portfolio is kind of goofy. I think my biggest concern is that when viewed as a whole, I'm not sure what to do with excess money I've placed in my Roth, which has remained in a money market fund due to my lack of knowledge.

I used my taxable account to purchase Fidelity ETFs representing US Bond/Domestic/International, but when I started out with my Roth, I wasn't thinking about a 3-fund portfolio, I just wanted to put money away and not think about it, so I placed it in a Target date fund. However for some reason I purchased additional US Total Market funds FZROX and feel like I'd like to get to a more classic overall distribution of money, where across

Now my questions are as follows:
1) If I were to be more actively managing my investments, would it be more ideal to rebalance my Roth into a similar 3 fund portfolio mirroring my taxable account, given that I've now set myself up for much larger yearly contributions to my Roth, or should I use the Roth to purchase a specific part of my portfolio?
1a) How do I avoid wash rules when buying/selling and during my portfolio rebalancing
1b) If I buy and sell within the Roth, do I have less tax implications than within the taxable account?

2) I've been lurking and seeing that more recommended portfolio distros are more Bond 20%, INTL 20%, Total Market 20% and S&P500 45%. Assuming I have a window of about 30-35 years until retirement (mid 30s and my profession is notorious for job stability and never retiring), I'd like to consider 10% bonds for the next 10-20 years. Aside from purchasing an S&P 500 specific ETF, are there any other ways you would recommend rebalancing?

3) The single stocks are pretty much AAPL acquired a long time ago as a lucky bet which I never sold, hence why it's larger than preferred part of my portfolio.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

adnam fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Mar 17, 2023

runawayturtles
Aug 2, 2004

adnam posted:



Now my questions are as follows:
1) If I were to be more actively managing my investments, would it be more ideal to rebalance my Roth into a similar 3 fund portfolio mirroring my taxable account, given that I've now set myself up for much larger yearly contributions to my Roth, or should I use the Roth to purchase a specific part of my portfolio?
1a) How do I avoid wash rules when buying/selling and during my portfolio rebalancing
1b) If I buy and sell within the Roth, do I have less tax implications than within the taxable account?

2) I've been lurking and seeing that more recommended portfolio distros are more Bond 20%, INTL 20%, Total Market 20% and S&P500 45%. Assuming I have a window of about 30-35 years until retirement (mid 30s and my profession is notorious for job stability and never retiring), I'd like to consider 10% bonds for the next 10-20 years. Aside from purchasing an S&P 500 specific ETF, are there any other ways you would recommend rebalancing?

1) Either way works, your portfolio across all accounts is what matters, but there are some benefits to using different funds. (By the way, don't "actively manage" your investments, rebalancing is like a once per year event.)

1a) This is one such benefit. If you don't use the same funds in the two accounts, you can't trigger a wash sale. You could also just save up the previous year and max out your yearly contribution at the start of every year, so you only have to worry about wash sales at that time. (Or you could just avoid selling holdings in your taxable account, of course.)

1b) There are no taxes on Roth accounts. You can change funds as much as you want. This leads to another benefit of using different funds in different accounts: you really don't want bonds in a Roth, because you want your tax-free money to grow as much as possible. So, your full bond allocation is usually better off elsewhere, like your 401k.

2) 60 domestic/20 international/20 bonds is a fine portfolio if you like it, but total market and s&p 500 are very similar and the only reason to have both is the aforementioned wash sale concern. So, if you want to use one fund in the taxable and the other in the Roth, that could make sense, but using both in the same account is a bit odd. If you want to drop to 10% bonds, that's also perfectly reasonable.

CubicalSucrose
Jan 1, 2013

Phantom my Opera and call me South Park: Bigger, Longer, & Uncut

runawayturtles posted:

1) Either way works, your portfolio across all accounts is what matters, but there are some benefits to using different funds. (By the way, don't "actively manage" your investments, rebalancing is like a once per year event.)

1a) This is one such benefit. If you don't use the same funds in the two accounts, you can't trigger a wash sale. You could also just save up the previous year and max out your yearly contribution at the start of every year, so you only have to worry about wash sales at that time. (Or you could just avoid selling holdings in your taxable account, of course.)

1b) There are no taxes on Roth accounts. You can change funds as much as you want. This leads to another benefit of using different funds in different accounts: you really don't want bonds in a Roth, because you want your tax-free money to grow as much as possible. So, your full bond allocation is usually better off elsewhere, like your 401k.

2) 60 domestic/20 international/20 bonds is a fine portfolio if you like it, but total market and s&p 500 are very similar and the only reason to have both is the aforementioned wash sale concern. So, if you want to use one fund in the taxable and the other in the Roth, that could make sense, but using both in the same account is a bit odd. If you want to drop to 10% bonds, that's also perfectly reasonable.

1b isn't necessarily true - see https://earlyretirementnow.com/2020/02/05/asset-location-do-bonds-belong-in-retirement-accounts-swr-series-35/ for a super in-depth evaluation.

Busy Bee
Jul 13, 2004

adnam posted:

3) The single stocks are pretty much AAPL acquired a long time ago as a lucky bet which I never sold, hence why it's larger than preferred part of my portfolio.



I'm curious on this point since there is a significant portion of my portfolio in one single stock that I acquired a long time ago that has performed exceptionally well - nearly 350% since.

What do you intend to do with your AAPL stock?

smackfu
Jun 7, 2004

The easy answer is just “sell it last” but sometimes you want to diversify.

Unsinkabear
Jun 8, 2013

Ensign, raise the beariscope.





Valicious posted:

Is Ivy Bank currently the highest APY at 4.75%? They were mentioned briefly here, but I think someone said that they track US Treasury bond so no need to chase rates?

Late to the party here but while they're not the absolute highest, they're definitely the highest no-hassle option that I know of. It's currently beating VUSXX (although I don't know how the tax implications of those compare in places with state income tax).

If you're interested, apply quickly, because the ability for new people to apply for their indexed account seems to come and go.

mrmcd posted:

Honestly if you're inclined to rate chase with your zero-risk cash pile, I'd just open a brokerage account, set your core position to VUSXX/SPAXX, and buy new issue 1-3 month tbills and brokered cds with whoever is offering the best deal each week.

I think OP's point was that they don't want to rate chase or fiddle.

mrmcd
Feb 22, 2003

Pictured: The only good cop (a fictional one).

Unsinkabear posted:

I think OP's point was that they don't want to rate chase or fiddle.

Ah that's fair. I read it as "I want the highest zero-risk rate available but don't want to keep opening and closing accounts at different banks every couple months" which is what my suggestion was about.

Space Fish
Oct 14, 2008

The original Big Tuna.


runawayturtles posted:

2) 60 domestic/20 international/20 bonds is a fine portfolio if you like it, but total market and s&p 500 are very similar and the only reason to have both is the aforementioned wash sale concern. So, if you want to use one fund in the taxable and the other in the Roth, that could make sense, but using both in the same account is a bit odd.

Reinforcing this point with a handy chart:

moana
Jun 18, 2005

one of the more intellectual satire communities on the web

Busy Bee posted:

I'm curious on this point since there is a significant portion of my portfolio in one single stock that I acquired a long time ago that has performed exceptionally well - nearly 350% since.

What do you intend to do with your AAPL stock?
If you want to give to charity, you can donate this stock to them instead of cash.

drk
Jan 16, 2005
Bought a 1 year brokered CD @ 5.35% today (issued by Schwab, purchased at Vanguard). Its FDIC insured and non-callable. There's also an 18 month at the same rate.

Seems like a pretty good deal for those looking for short-ish term, safe investments during a week where Treasury yields are down significantly.

smackfu
Jun 7, 2004

moana posted:

If you want to give to charity, you can donate this stock to them instead of cash.

Similarly, you can give it to a donor-advised fund you set up at Vanguard or Fidelity or wherever.

Roughly:
You get the tax credit for the fully realized value of the donation today.
No one ever pays taxes on the gains.
You can give the money to charity over time, including to small charities who wouldn’t know what to do with a stock donation.

TheLawinator
Apr 13, 2012

Competence on the battlefield is a myth. The side which screws up next to last wins, it's as simple as that.

drk posted:

Bought a 1 year brokered CD @ 5.35% today (issued by Schwab, purchased at Vanguard). Its FDIC insured and non-callable. There's also an 18 month at the same rate.

Seems like a pretty good deal for those looking for short-ish term, safe investments during a week where Treasury yields are down significantly.

I never heard of these before, what's the downside? Just seems better than regular CDs.

Edit: I'm seeing that you want to get it from a sound financial institution and that if you get a very long term one there can be risks. For a 12 or 18 month cd I don't see any sort of downside.

TheLawinator fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Mar 17, 2023

Oil!
Nov 5, 2008

Der's e'rl in dem der hills!


Ham Wrangler

TheLawinator posted:

I never heard of these before, what's the downside? Just seems better than regular CDs.

The downside is that if you want out you have to sell them on the open market, so if interest rates increase you could end up underwater. This isn't a problem if you are holding to maturity, but if there is any chance of leaving early it is a risk. For example, I got a couple brokered CDs at 4.90% a month ago that "lost" value by <0.25%.

TheLawinator
Apr 13, 2012

Competence on the battlefield is a myth. The side which screws up next to last wins, it's as simple as that.

Oil! posted:

The downside is that if you want out you have to sell them on the open market, so if interest rates increase you could end up underwater. This isn't a problem if you are holding to maturity, but if there is any chance of leaving early it is a risk. For example, I got a couple brokered CDs at 4.90% a month ago that "lost" value by <0.25%.

5.35 is enough for me to stick with it even if rates go higher in the next 18 months, and I don't foresee needing to touch those funds for other reasons.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

TheLawinator posted:

I never heard of these before, what's the downside? Just seems better than regular CDs.

Often times "regular" CDs (purchased directly from banks) have better rates, or relatively friendly early redemption policies. But, 5.35% is better than the best rates I see on depositaccounts and being brokered also has the advantage of not needing to open a new account at a bank.

Some brokered CDs are also callable, which means the bank has the option to pay off the CD at par before maturity. This call option wouldnt be exercised if rates raise, but might if they go down, potentially leaving you with less interest than you would get in a non-callable CD.

jokes
Dec 20, 2012

Uh... Kupo?

TheLawinator posted:

5.35 is enough for me to stick with it even if rates go higher in the next 18 months, and I don't foresee needing to touch those funds for other reasons.

What if rates rose to 20% then you'd be hosed!

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust

If that happens we're all probably hosed anyway

mrmcd
Feb 22, 2003

Pictured: The only good cop (a fictional one).

Oil! posted:

The downside is that if you want out you have to sell them on the open market, so if interest rates increase you could end up underwater. This isn't a problem if you are holding to maturity, but if there is any chance of leaving early it is a risk. For example, I got a couple brokered CDs at 4.90% a month ago that "lost" value by <0.25%.

The other thing is the secondary market can be very thin for bank CDs. There's dozens of issues every week and nobody is gonna be quoting deep books in all of them. So it could either not sell or you gotta lower the price enough that a bond trader takes you to the cleaners.

PoundSand
Jul 30, 2021

Also proficient with kites
Cap one was offering a 5% 11 month one last weekend we dumped some money in, was a bit of a coinflip on whether fed would raise rates and there'd be better ones around or whether shoring up the banks would make them lose incentive to offer these uncharacteristically high promo rates. Barclay's had 5 too, as did a couple others. I'm seeing mostly 4.5 and below this week from the same places (barclay's still has 5% 12 mo for anyone with fomo) so scoring 5.35 looks like a great catch.

PoundSand fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Mar 17, 2023

nelson
Apr 12, 2009
College Slice
If the issuing bank fails I’m guessing the FDIC isn’t on the hook for the whole term right? Just the face value and interest to-date?

GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos

CubicalSucrose posted:

That's sensible. 60/40 isn't very high equity-wise, but if it keeps you sleeping well at night and you won't do anything silly, and the expense ratio is low, then that's good enough.

I would argue that with like 25ish years until retirement (given your 2050 target date fund), something like "all in VTI" is by no means unreasonable, but I know how I sleep during downturns.

Thanks for your input on this. I've been thinking for a few days and while going all-in on VTI might be a little bold for my tastes, something closer to 70/30 or 80/20 mix might work better for me. I know both are more aggressive than what I initially suggested but because my emergency savings are stable, it's probably worth having more a little more earning potential even though that carries a little more risk.

Atahualpa
Aug 18, 2015

A lucky bird.

drk posted:

Bought a 1 year brokered CD @ 5.35% today (issued by Schwab, purchased at Vanguard). Its FDIC insured and non-callable. There's also an 18 month at the same rate.

Seems like a pretty good deal for those looking for short-ish term, safe investments during a week where Treasury yields are down significantly.

I was looking into this yesterday afternoon on Fidelity, but am I missing something or do they just not offer CDs between the 9-month and 2-year range? I can see them on Vanguard, but I currently only use that for my Roth IRA and I'd rather use my existing taxable account with Fidelity if possible.

For reference, here's what's showing for me on their site right now:

Bremen
Jul 20, 2006

Our God..... is an awesome God

Atahualpa posted:

I was looking into this yesterday afternoon on Fidelity, but am I missing something or do they just not offer CDs between the 9-month and 2-year range? I can see them on Vanguard, but I currently only use that for my Roth IRA and I'd rather use my existing taxable account with Fidelity if possible.

For reference, here's what's showing for me on their site right now:



Interesting. Here's what I get on Schwab:



I find it interesting not just that each has different gaps, but that rates seem to curve in opposite directions. I'd probably strongly consider a 5 year at 5.45% right now.



That actually reminds me of something I've been curious about. I vaguely recall reading a discussion somewhere (reddit I think) that went basically what kind of rate would someone have to offer on, oh, a 20-30 year bond/CD for you to move most or all of your long term savings over to it? This is assuming essentially no risk, btw, or at least something like a federal bond. Of course a few years ago the idea of a long term bond/CD offering such a rate was very lol but now with rates high and potentially still rising it seems like a valid question, and of course now I can't find the discussion.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Atahualpa posted:

I was looking into this yesterday afternoon on Fidelity, but am I missing something or do they just not offer CDs between the 9-month and 2-year range? I can see them on Vanguard, but I currently only use that for my Roth IRA and I'd rather use my existing taxable account with Fidelity if possible.

Its possible they sold out due to high demand, but brokered CDs also aren't necessarily offered at all brokers.

It worth checking early Monday when the markets open to see what is available.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Bremen posted:

That actually reminds me of something I've been curious about. I vaguely recall reading a discussion somewhere (reddit I think) that went basically what kind of rate would someone have to offer on, oh, a 20-30 year bond/CD for you to move most or all of your long term savings over to it? This is assuming essentially no risk, btw, or at least something like a federal bond. Of course a few years ago the idea of a long term bond/CD offering such a rate was very lol but now with rates high and potentially still rising it seems like a valid question, and of course now I can't find the discussion.

There's not really a realistic situation where a zero risk bond is offering 10-15% without something being majorly wrong with the economy (and thus, not really zero risk). 30 year treasuries did peak that high in the 80s though. Anyone who got in on that did very, very well.

Busy Bee
Jul 13, 2004

Atahualpa posted:

I was looking into this yesterday afternoon on Fidelity, but am I missing something or do they just not offer CDs between the 9-month and 2-year range? I can see them on Vanguard, but I currently only use that for my Roth IRA and I'd rather use my existing taxable account with Fidelity if possible.

For reference, here's what's showing for me on their site right now:



Yes, that's what I see too. I've been following the CD's on Fidelity for the last few months and that is new. Probably because of increase in demand since the treasury yields are going down.

Bremen posted:

I find it interesting not just that each has different gaps, but that rates seem to curve in opposite directions. I'd probably strongly consider a 5 year at 5.45% right now.

The 5.45% one is not call protected.

Agronox
Feb 4, 2005

Bremen posted:

That actually reminds me of something I've been curious about. I vaguely recall reading a discussion somewhere (reddit I think) that went basically what kind of rate would someone have to offer on, oh, a 20-30 year bond/CD for you to move most or all of your long term savings over to it?

It's an interesting question but kind of tough to ask in a vacuum. As DRK says, there was a time in the early 80s where you could lock in 30-year Treasurys at 13 or 14%. Which is amazing, but that was also a time where you could buy Coca-Cola at a P/E of 8. (The price has risen over 200-fold since.) The kind of environment where you can buy 9% Treasurys, say, implies that maybe you shouldn't.

For what it's worth right now I'm looking at certain bank preferreds yielding over 8% (and they're tax-advantaged compared to bonds to boot). But I'll probably only end up nibbling on them for fear of the regional bankpocalypse.

Unsinkabear
Jun 8, 2013

Ensign, raise the beariscope.





mrmcd posted:

Ah that's fair. I read it as "I want the highest zero-risk rate available but don't want to keep opening and closing accounts at different banks every couple months" which is what my suggestion was about.

Also fair, you might be right. Speaking of, can anyone recommend some strong interest-bearing checking/MM accounts that can actually function as your primary hub account? I have some unique circumstances that require me to keep a decent chunk of cash in my checking account separate from my HYSA nest egg. So I figure if I can collect an extra $100-200 or whatever per year for no extra work, I may as well.

I currently use Alliant so it would need to be something similar. Fast (ideally next day) ACH transfers, high or no limit on number of external accounts you can link, no annoying limits on number/size of transfers, no crazy hoops to jump through to actually get the interest, no history of rate drop shenanigans that will mean switching again in 6 months, etc.

The closest thing I've found to a goldilocks is that Fidelity cash management account, but I feel like we can do better than 2.34% right now. There have to be some lesser known options out there. Liberty FCU (formerly Evansville Teachers FCU) is almost perfect, but has an annoying requirement of 15+ transactions per month on their debit card.

Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Mar 19, 2023

No Pants
Dec 10, 2000

Unsinkabear posted:

The closest thing I've found to a goldilocks is that Fidelity cash management account, but I feel like we can do better than 2.34% right now. There have to be some lesser known options out there. Liberty FCU (formerly Evansville Teachers FCU) is almost perfect, but has an annoying requirement of 15+ transactions per month on their debit card.

The Fidelity CMA sounds like what you're looking for if you can deal with manually moving new cash over to your money market fund.

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ranbo das
Oct 16, 2013


If you're in SPAXX in the CMA you should be getting like 4.2%, not 2.35%. For a bit more of a boost SPRXX yields 4.35%

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