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I miss drinking liquid rock. The water in the part of the midwest where I lived did all of those things - scale in teakettles, clogging valves, soap didn't lather - but I loved how that water tasted and having access to it might be one of the few things that could lure me back there.
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Dec 7, 2019 18:30
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DrBouvenstein posted:So speaking of this, I've looked into how to make floating shelves and it looks like there are two main ways. https://rightonbracket.com/product/floating-shelf-bracket/?attribute_length=10" https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Steel-Floating-Shelf-Bracket/dp/B07D366VLC HycoCam fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Dec 8, 2019 |
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Dec 7, 2019 21:49
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HycoCam posted:Hard and soft water are typically issues related to well water. If you are on city water and have calcium, magnesium, and iron in your water--that sucks. Perhaps this is true of your area, but certainly not the case in the UK and presumably much of other countries too. The area of the country you're in dramatically affects municipal water hardness here.  The rest of the post was super informative though, thanks!
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Dec 7, 2019 23:26
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tea spergin (thanks for the details!)
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Dec 8, 2019 00:47
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HycoCam posted:Hard and soft water are typically issues related to well water. If you are on city water and have calcium, magnesium, and iron in your water--that sucks. Uh, no. Because hardness isn't really a health/safety concern, there's very little regulation of it for municipal supplies. Something like 85% of homes have hard water of varying degrees.
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Dec 8, 2019 03:30
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I tested my waters, and while I don't think I'm pregnant, my municipal tap water clocked in at 290 ppm (TDS).
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Dec 8, 2019 11:37
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My basement storage/utility area light circuit has two outlets. I’m gonna put those tri-led things in them, so I moved one of the existing fluorescent fixtures over by all of the utilities and plugged it in to a different circuit. I need to get a short pull chain as well as secure the power cord with some velcro, but it helps immensely in that corner.
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Dec 8, 2019 13:25
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Basement swimming pools are the best.
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Dec 8, 2019 14:21
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We had Pella over on Friday to compare with Anderson. Based on price and the much more transparent sales process, we’ll be going with Pella. First floor windows will be right around 10k. We’re gonna convert the triple sash in the living room to a big picture window and two smaller casements on the side; it should look awesome. In the meantime I’ve been weatherproofing as best as I can. Went around to every lovely original sash window and went to town with weather sealing putty as well as new door weatherstripping where appropriate. Gonna head to Lowe’s in a bit to pick up a couple more things and I should have the winterizing done today. 
devmd01 fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Dec 8, 2019 |
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Dec 8, 2019 18:11
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Congrats! How much of a discount off MSRP did you get on Pella? I purchased a similar number of Anderson windows last week and got a 25% discount off MSRP.
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Dec 8, 2019 19:24
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If your two choices are Anderson and Pella--you can't pick wrong. Both are quality.
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Dec 8, 2019 19:25
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Fun thing I learned today: it takes two cans of Great Stuff to fill the inside of a cinder block, after you find one in your foundation with a hole in it.
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Dec 8, 2019 22:20
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The 10k quote was for the entire first floor, 3 windows. I haven’t seen the detailed one yet, the wife hasn’t forwarded it to me. Finished up all the windows; I used some foam backer rod to seal up the bottom gaps. A plastic putty knife worked well to shove it down into the gap. It may be placebo effect but the house already seems warmer from sealing all the drafts. 
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Dec 9, 2019 00:51
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I am ＥＸＣＩＴＥＤ for your improved windows!!!
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Dec 9, 2019 04:08
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devmd01 posted:The 10k quote was for the entire first floor, 3 windows. I haven’t seen the detailed one yet, the wife hasn’t forwarded it to me. $3,300 per window seems high to me? Are these huge windows? SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Dec 9, 2019 |
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Dec 9, 2019 05:29
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SpartanIvy posted:$3,300 per window seems high to me? Are these huge windows? Yeah. Even in an expensive area of the country I had 8 good quality windows and two doors done for £7k, two of which are big bay windows.
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Dec 9, 2019 11:11
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Yeah, the front and back windows are pretty big. Front is a double sash 5 feet wide, rear is a triple sash that’s a little over 8 feet.
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Dec 9, 2019 14:15
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Still seems spendy. Perhaps extra charge for peak season? Somewhat related, the house I moved in to has known bad seals on casement windows, original wood windows from the 80s. Going to deal with it this winter, then start replacing. I don't want to get quotes yet, but should I expect casement windows to be more expensive? Additionally, does anyone know if people can JUST replace the window+panel part of the casements and leave the frames?
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Dec 9, 2019 16:02
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falz posted:should I expect casement windows to be more expensive? More expensive than what? falz posted:Additionally, does anyone know if people can JUST replace the window+panel part of the casements and leave the frames? I don't see why not, though there'd need to be enough room in the frames for whatever hinges and locking mechanisms the new windows use, and morticing them out on site may take longer and/or a more or differently skilled installer. AFAIK most modern window casements are routed out in the factory to match the window hardware, so all the installer needs to deal with is fitting a square into a square.
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Dec 9, 2019 16:07
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Jaded Burnout posted:I don't see why not, though there'd need to be enough room in the frames for whatever hinges and locking mechanisms the new windows use, and morticing them out on site may take longer and/or a more or differently skilled installer. AFAIK most modern window casements are routed out in the factory to match the window hardware, so all the installer needs to deal with is fitting a square into a square. I don't see why not either, although replacing just the window and panel might end up being more expensive since ithey'd have to do a custom build to fit into your window frames. FWIW, a glass company can install new double-pane glass with the inert gas filler and good coatings into existing windows, if the problem is with the glass rather than the framing. A lot of my windows developed popped seals and went cloudy after a particularly disruptive construction project next door, and I was able to replace just the sealed glass units. It was much greener and cheaper than replacing the whole window assemblies, but of course that approach wouldn't have helped if the frames themselves had been leaky.
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Dec 9, 2019 16:46
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TofuDiva posted:I don't see why not either, although replacing just the window and panel might end up being more expensive since ithey'd have to do a custom build to fit into your window frames. To a degree that's true anyway, since the windows are built to fit the casement and the casement is custom built to fit the hole in the wall. If they have window holes that happen to fit standard prebuilt window sizes then that's a different story, I guess.
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Dec 9, 2019 16:49
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Jaded Burnout posted:More expensive than what? than.. standard slidey up/down windows, whatever those are called.
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Dec 9, 2019 17:11
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falz posted:than.. standard slidey up/down windows, whatever those are called. Sash windows?
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Dec 9, 2019 17:33
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Since we are talking window chat, I'm finally getting around to replacing the old semi-broken windows in this condo. We're in a 110 year old condo building in DC. I got a quote from a well-recommended and reviewed local installer, who it turns out has also replaced the windows in 3 other units in our building in the last 6 years. The main quote I got and the one that was most strongly recommended was for some windows by a Maryland company Vytex. The secondary quote was for some windows from Ideal that cost about 10% more and he tells me are just worse. The windows are all normalish size but there are 7 different sizes between the 10 windows, I guess that is how they rolled pre-1910? From what I can tell they are pretty good windows that are a relatively good value. We'll probably be in this condo at least five years but probably not more than ten. Any red flags in this or should I get some quotes from the big names?
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Dec 9, 2019 18:55
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OnceIWasAnOstrich posted:Since we are talking window chat, I'm finally getting around to replacing the old semi-broken windows in this condo. We're in a 110 year old condo building in DC. I got a quote from a well-recommended and reviewed local installer, who it turns out has also replaced the windows in 3 other units in our building in the last 6 years. The main quote I got and the one that was most strongly recommended was for some windows by a Maryland company Vytex. The secondary quote was for some windows from Ideal that cost about 10% more and he tells me are just worse. The windows are all normalish size but there are 7 different sizes between the 10 windows, I guess that is how they rolled pre-1910? I don't know the brand but assuming they're good, seems fine. Are you happy with the R- and/or U-value?
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Dec 9, 2019 19:10
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I hate to say it and you've probably already done this, but just in case not - do you need to inform your condo board before you sign a contract? There's likely not any problem if this installer has worked in the building before and others have used these windows, but depending upon your covenants and how fussy your board is, you could get hit with a fine (or worse, a stop work demand in the middle of the job) for not getting clearance first. I hate bringing things like this up, but when I lived in my condo, my neighbor got into this exact pickle and it was very hard on her, so please know that I'm not intending to be a pest.
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Dec 9, 2019 20:49
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Jaded Burnout posted:I don't know the brand but assuming they're good, seems fine. Are you happy with the R- and/or U-value? My neighbors have no complaints and I can't find any bad reviews and what reviews I find call these out as good mid-range windows. U-value for this particular configuration is 0.26. I haven't asked for pricing, but the fancier triple-paned versions of these windows seem to come with a U-value of 0.2 or 0.16 depending on some details. I'm not sure how to do that math but given the level of insulation the walls seem to have I think I would have diminishing returns on more efficient windows. TofuDiva posted:I hate to say it and you've probably already done this, but just in case not - do you need to inform your condo board before you sign a contract? There's likely not any problem if this installer has worked in the building before and others have used these windows, but depending upon your covenants and how fussy your board is, you could get hit with a fine (or worse, a stop work demand in the middle of the job) for not getting clearance first. If I had front-facing windows it would be a whole other historical appearance preservation thing. They didn't like that I was changing the windows but I knew this was a potential stumbling block and I went back and forth with them about the windows being identical to my upstairs neighbors and got explicit approval for this quote.
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Dec 9, 2019 21:24
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OnceIWasAnOstrich posted:U-value for this particular configuration is 0.26. I haven't asked for pricing, but the fancier triple-paned versions of these windows seem to come with a U-value of 0.2 or 0.16 depending on some details. I'm not sure how to do that math but given the level of insulation the walls seem to have I think I would have diminishing returns on more efficient windows. There's also some maths to be done to combine the values of the glass and the frame, which I personally couldn't be arsed to do.
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Dec 9, 2019 21:29
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Getting a wood stove installed on Thursday. There's a snow shower and freezing temperatures forecast overnight on Wednesday which hopefully won't be too bad as the installers have to deliver it down the path to the chalet. The thread-recommended concentric flues don't exist in Switzerland and per Herr Stove Installer's advice, rather than making holes in the wall for makeup air I'm relying on the building being leaky enough to feed the stove. Getting one of these babies https://www.jotul.co.uk/products/wood/wood-stoves/jotul-f-167 A snip at Fr4600 installed (1 CHF = 1 USD), amazingly this is one of the cheaper options.
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Dec 9, 2019 23:00
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knox_harrington posted:Getting a wood stove installed on Thursday. There's a snow shower and freezing temperatures forecast overnight on Wednesday which hopefully won't be too bad as the installers have to deliver it down the path to the chalet. That's a nice-looking stove you bought. Decent stoves aren't cheap, I paid about $3k for the stove alone when I got mine in 2012.
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Dec 10, 2019 13:08
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Posting while enjoying the warmth of my $2750 Vermont Castings Encore, money very well spent. Enjoy your new stove!
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Dec 11, 2019 00:47
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One Day Fish Sale posted:Posting while enjoying the warmth of my $2750 Vermont Castings Encore, money very well spent. Enjoy your new stove! Sup we put the same one in this fall. It's been great.
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Dec 11, 2019 01:54
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My parents have a Jotul, I'm fairly sure it's an F3, or very similar looking at their site. It's fantastic and even though I'm not there freezing my rear end off, I miss that stove. There's probably something funny about them installing a Jotul in Vermont though. 
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Dec 11, 2019 06:09
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RIP stump   also RIP my downspout They got here early, before I got home, so I was not able to fully document the operation.  They're hauling away all the tree bits and leaving me the three giant chunks of concrete that were in the stump.Edit: Bonus OSHA content 
Sirotan fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Dec 13, 2019 |
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Dec 13, 2019 18:06
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I asked a while back but I want to install some pendants lights over my island. The wiring is ready to go in the attic, but I don't know what kind of jbox to use. I am guessing I need to buy new construction ceiling fan boxes that are nailed into the trusses/joists. Is this correct?
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Dec 13, 2019 18:16
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Arborists just left. Turns out it was four chunks:  Stump grinder will come another day. Neighbors are going to be in for a surprise when they get home from work today!
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Dec 13, 2019 19:17
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Sirotan posted:Arborists just left. Turns out it was four chunks: I imagine that it's nice not to have that big thing so close to your house anymore! Do you have plans for the space where it was, or will you let it remain open?
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Dec 13, 2019 19:53
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TofuDiva posted:I imagine that it's nice not to have that big thing so close to your house anymore! Do you have plans for the space where it was, or will you let it remain open? It certainly did open up the yard:  And I am not sure yet, there's sooooooo many projects that need to be done on the inside that I've really only had a chance to focus on the absolute bare minimum on taking care of the yard. I'd certainly love to put in a patio or a raised deck as I love to grill and entertain. I'm also toying with the idea of turning the dining room wall into a sliding glass door to the backyard, and would put a deck to walk out onto, but I'm not sure if 1) I can afford it or 2) the historic district commission would let me do it. I don't yet regret buying a fixer-upper but it is certainly the opposite thing to do if you enjoy relaxing, having a social life, or going anywhere besides back to your house to work on things every evening/weekend.
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Dec 13, 2019 20:08
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Should kept one of those slabs of stump and made a dope end table
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Dec 13, 2019 20:26
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couldcareless posted:Should kept one of those slabs of stump and made a dope end table The stump was a rotten mess to the point that it got filled with concrete. I don't think there would have been anything salvageable for any use other than a bonfire.
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Dec 13, 2019 20:28
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