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Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

BaronVanAwesome posted:

UV! Some direct sunlight should do the trick

Bucnasti posted:

Tackiness is most likely due to the resin not being fully cleaned off the model before curing rather then being uncured.
First wash them with isopropyl alcohol, mean/simple green or similar cleaner. Then place them outside in the sun for a few hours.


I tried cleaning with some isopropyl and they're still tacky. I'll have to wait for a day when we don't have crazy winds to set them outside. It's been 25+mph winds here for the past few weeks, certainly enough to bowl a light mini across the ground.

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Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
One other piece of advice, avoid handling them with bare hands until you've had a chance to cure the models. Uncured resin is toxic.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Hey thread - looking for some advice on how to "add fat" to a model

I've got the GW Demon Prince model, which has an extremely muscular physique. Not very appropriate for Nurgle! I imagine simply just adding 3 big balls for a belly and some man boobs and then "pulling" them back onto the model probably won't come out like how I'm imagining it.

I don't have much experience with green stuff in general, and most tutorials online are for doing more traditional things like filling gaps, hair/braids, fur texture or other "finer" details. I was wondering if anyone ITT might have resources for something like what I'm trying to do?

e; should also add that I plan on kit bashing some armor on top of it, like using pauldrons to partially cover up the belly and other random bits from other Death Guard kits. But I still want a decent amount of skin showing.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I don’t have too much experience eith greenstuff, but make sure that you weight doen your base with coins/ washers. That much greenstuff will be heavy and could cause the model to topple.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Slowly working on building a Deathwatch Spectrus Kill-Team and I finished an Infiltrator from the Storm Giants Chapter today:







"My Tactical Visor is charging"

AndyElusive fucked around with this message at 22:19 on May 12, 2022

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Your lens game is on point

I keep meaning to make “real” lenses my next focus

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Professor Shark posted:

I don’t have too much experience eith greenstuff, but make sure that you weight doen your base with coins/ washers. That much greenstuff will be heavy and could cause the model to topple.

I suspect the wings and tail will be a good enough counter balance

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

I have started painting some Krieg, at the rate I’m going I’ll finish what I have in a couple of years. Trying to do all these without leaning on my airbrush.


Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Mr Teatime posted:

I have started painting some Krieg, at the rate I’m going I’ll finish what I have in a couple of years. Trying to do all these without leaning on my airbrush.




What colors did you use for Krieg? For some reason I just haven’t been able to find one that catches the WWI trench aesthetic.

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
I really need to figure out how to take better pictures...

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Marshal Prolapse posted:

What colors did you use for Krieg? For some reason I just haven’t been able to find one that catches the WWI trench aesthetic.

It’s pretty much thunderhawk blue, drakenhoff wash then layer/highlight back up with thunder hawk > russ grey > fenresian grey.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

Aranan posted:

I really need to figure out how to take better pictures...



I don't know what you're taking pictures with, but its over exposed. If you can, you need to speed up the shutter, lower the iso or tighten the aperture.

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Mr Teatime posted:

It’s pretty much thunderhawk blue, drakenhoff wash then layer/highlight back up with thunder hawk > russ grey > fenresian grey.

Thanks! That gives me an idea to maybe mix cloudburst blue and magic blue together. That or I was thinking something in a gray or black, it’s gonna be hilarious when I actually put these Krieg troops out and they’re all different colors and paint jobs. lol

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken

My Spirit Otter posted:

I don't know what you're taking pictures with, but its over exposed. If you can, you need to speed up the shutter, lower the iso or tighten the aperture.

I just have my phone's camera, a Pixel 6. I'll do some googling and see if I can modify those settings. One selling point of this phone was supposed to be a decent camera so hopefully I can find something out. It's helpful to know my issue is over exposure! Thanks.

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
Does anyone have any tips on how to take better pics of my models? I’m using an iPhone 12 currently with default settings.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Marshal Prolapse posted:

Does anyone have any tips on how to take better pics of my models? I’m using an iPhone 12 currently with default settings.

GW has a nice writeup of the simple things you can do:

https://www.warhammer-community.com/2018/03/06/the-model-photo-how-to-photograph-models-for-display/

Your pictures look pretty good already but definitely use some kind of background like a black piece of card stock or something. No need for a fancy setup but the less cluttered the background the easier it is to see the mini

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Booyah- posted:

GW has a nice writeup of the simple things you can do:

https://www.warhammer-community.com/2018/03/06/the-model-photo-how-to-photograph-models-for-display/

Your pictures look pretty good already but definitely use some kind of background like a black piece of card stock or something. No need for a fancy setup but the less cluttered the background the easier it is to see the mini

Thanks!

Also in holy poo poo news. I got a decal correctly done on my first try!

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

Aranan posted:

I just have my phone's camera, a Pixel 6. I'll do some googling and see if I can modify those settings. One selling point of this phone was supposed to be a decent camera so hopefully I can find something out. It's helpful to know my issue is over exposure! Thanks.

Marshal Prolapse posted:

Does anyone have any tips on how to take better pics of my models? I’m using an iPhone 12 currently with default settings.

Both of your guys camers probably have a pro mode where you can adjust them manually

This is what the android one looks like

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Crossposting from the BattleTech thread again. Finished my Lyran company.





Bagpipes intensify...

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken

My Spirit Otter posted:

Both of your guys camers probably have a pro mode where you can adjust them manually

Did a little reading and found this gem of information:

quote:

The Pixel 6, known for having one of the best smartphone cameras, doesn’t come with a manual mode. Don’t feel left out if yours doesn’t have one either.

I grabbed Adobe Lightroom and will mess around with it some this weekend. Supposedly it has manual settings.

Although the downside of taking better pictures is that my mistakes are going to be so much more obvious. Maybe I'll just take photos with a Gameboy camera.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
Even with my top of the line galaxy phone camera, manual camera app and an add-on macro lens I couldn’t get photos of my minis I was happy with.
I purchased a used DSLR and lens for like $125 and was able to get superb pics right out of the box.

Serious camera people upgrade their gear all the time so there is a very robust secondary market, and even a 10 year old model will produce better photos than a phone camera.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

Aranan posted:

Did a little reading and found this gem of information:

I grabbed Adobe Lightroom and will mess around with it some this weekend. Supposedly it has manual settings.

:eng99:

Aranan posted:

Although the downside of taking better pictures is that my mistakes are going to be so much more obvious. Maybe I'll just take photos with a Gameboy camera.

Now youre legally required to

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I don't have a gameboy camera, but I do have a 3DS XL camera!

Pixel 4XL is fine in my opinion, but the DoF on my Canon t7i is much better, it's just kind of a pain in a small living area to whip out a camera, put it on a tripod, set up the scene vs a picture of a progress post done in a few seconds

I'll probably redo some pictures later on once I have more done

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I don't have a gameboy camera, but I do have a 3DS XL camera!

Pixel 4XL is fine in my opinion, but the DoF on my Canon t7i is much better, it's just kind of a pain in a small living area to whip out a camera, put it on a tripod, set up the scene vs a picture of a progress post done in a few seconds

I'll probably redo some pictures later on once I have more done

oh my god, do i ever feel you on this, despite everything being so close it takes so much effort!!

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

What's the go-to for airbrush primer?

I've been using Stynylrez, but I'm at my wit's end with it. It's constantly plugging up the nozzle no matter how much I thin it, and I get little chunks that spray out pretty consistantly. The little chunks are extremely annoying when I'm trying to do a smooth, flat surface. I've had to sand and attempt to re-prime so many times.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
I switched to Vallejo airbrush primer and have had good luck with it, after having the same problems you are with Stynylrez. I hear Stynylrez made a bad batch but since I have no guarantee any of theirs I order won't be from that batch it's just not worth the risk.

Wolfsbane
Jul 29, 2009

What time is it, Eccles?

Marshal Prolapse posted:

What colors did you use for Krieg? For some reason I just haven’t been able to find one that catches the WWI trench aesthetic.

This may sound like a dumb question, but have you considered non-GW paints? There are a vast range of paints that are perfect for WW1 aesthetics, for a pretty obvious reason.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

Marshal Prolapse posted:

What colors did you use for Krieg? For some reason I just haven’t been able to find one that catches the WWI trench aesthetic.



Mine's based on a suggestion from an old, old, old 40k or painting thread. Might a slightly paler blue be more suitable?

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Wolfsbane posted:

This may sound like a dumb question, but have you considered non-GW paints? There are a vast range of paints that are perfect for WW1 aesthetics, for a pretty obvious reason.

Yep, but just the army painter speed set. But it’s more just a function of being a 5 minute walk from the LGS with a citadel rack, but no AP paints and only the tools. But I’ve been mean to check out some of the Vallejo sets.

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

I like Vallejo better than Citadel, and I avoid Army Painter like the plague. I know a lot like it but I seem to always get the paints with a cottage cheese consistency.

Vallejo has both "model color" and "game color" lines. Model color is more for the model kit hobbyists and match stuff like German Grey, Russian Green, French Blue, etc... Game Color is the line with brighter colors that they started for things like sci-fi and fantasy miniatures.

Hoboskins
Aug 31, 2006

there is a rumour going around that I have found God. I think this is unlikely because I have enough difficulty finding my keys, and there is empirical evidence that they exist
I'm going to second Poptartsninja Vallejo primer is really consistent, has a large colour range and they spray really nicely straight from the bottle. I haven't used the Mecha colour primers though so I can't comment on them. I know Vince V also pretty much swears by it for his airbrush.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Floppychop posted:

What's the go-to for airbrush primer?

I've been using Stynylrez, but I'm at my wit's end with it. It's constantly plugging up the nozzle no matter how much I thin it, and I get little chunks that spray out pretty consistantly. The little chunks are extremely annoying when I'm trying to do a smooth, flat surface. I've had to sand and attempt to re-prime so many times.

Vellejo Black Surface Primer with a drop or two of thinner does the trick for me.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Floppychop posted:

What's the go-to for airbrush primer?

I've been using Stynylrez, but I'm at my wit's end with it. It's constantly plugging up the nozzle no matter how much I thin it, and I get little chunks that spray out pretty consistantly. The little chunks are extremely annoying when I'm trying to do a smooth, flat surface. I've had to sand and attempt to re-prime so many times.

At the height of the pandemic Badger had to switch suppliers for some of their ingredients and had several batches of primer that were "bad". They've switched back and the new batches are supposed to be returned to normal, but unless you're buying directly from Badger there's no way to be sure if you're getting the new or old formula.

Vallejo surface primer is very good, and I haven't heard of any consistency issues. I'll probably switch over to it when my current supply of stynylrez runs out.

You could try pouring the stuff you have through a fine mesh paint filter, that helped me when I was having similar clumping problems with some matte varnish awhile back.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Sab669 posted:

Hey thread - looking for some advice on how to "add fat" to a model



Decided to just wing it. I like how the moobs came out, actually, but I wish I put more belly on so that it was bursting out of the chest armor.

The super swole neck didn't look right so I tried to add some rolls there I'm not happy with how that came out. After I did it a friend suggested cutting off the head, filing down the neck and then shoving the head into a mass of green stuff which probably would have came out way better. Oh well! Live and learn.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Floppychop posted:

I like Vallejo better than Citadel, and I avoid Army Painter like the plague. I know a lot like it but I seem to always get the paints with a cottage cheese consistency.

Vallejo has both "model color" and "game color" lines. Model color is more for the model kit hobbyists and match stuff like German Grey, Russian Green, French Blue, etc... Game Color is the line with brighter colors that they started for things like sci-fi and fantasy miniatures.

Note that the Vallejo model color, model air, and game colour all play nicely with each other and with GW’s various lines. My minis are usually a combination of whatever gives me what I need, and I’ve never had something reactivate or gum up on me.

Also they have Game Inks which smell like the old citadel inks. Which matters to me.

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Floppychop posted:

What's the go-to for airbrush primer?

I've been using Stynylrez, but I'm at my wit's end with it. It's constantly plugging up the nozzle no matter how much I thin it, and I get little chunks that spray out pretty consistantly. The little chunks are extremely annoying when I'm trying to do a smooth, flat surface. I've had to sand and attempt to re-prime so many times.

Forget stynylrez. It used to be good and then badger putzed around with it while denying anything was wrong for a good while. All those reviews about how great it is are from a time when it wasn’t ruined, it’s not supposed to be such a pig to spray. They can claim it’s fixed all they want but I’m not buying it again after being burnt so many times. Here is a sample of the chalky grainy garbage vs the old stuff I made.

Calhanol
Apr 27, 2010
Has anyone tried the new Army Painter Air primers? I know their normal wargame paints have a bad reputation, but I have heard good things about about their air range of products. I've heard little criticism, good or bad, on how their new primers are when compared to the more established ranges like Vallejo's airbrush primers.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

What's the best way to do a full teardown and clean of an airbrush. It's been a bit since I've lost used mine and o suspect something is off...

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat

w00tmonger posted:

What's the best way to do a full teardown and clean of an airbrush. It's been a bit since I've lost used mine and o suspect something is off...

Look up a youtube video for your make/model of airbrush is my suggestion.

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I unscrew all the things that unscrew and hit anything that doesn't have a rubber gasket on it with some iso and a qtip. Cleaning the nozzle either use a specific nozzle cleaning tool, or very pointy metal tweezers that fit in the hole and spin it around and let it soak in iso and/or airbrush cleaner (just not the rubber gasket)

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