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brickswereshat posted:Oh damned jeep... I don't see how it can relate to either the way the 4x4 works on your truck, or the work you've had done, but it sure as hell sounds like similar symptoms.
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Jan 20, 2011 20:29
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iwentdoodie posted:Quick question. Is there a company that makes the half hardtop for a JK? I've seen the half hard tops on TJs, turning them into essentially a pick up, but I'm thinking of picking up a JK Rubi when I come back to the states and the availability of one of those would really push me towards it more. They're supposedly "working on it". gr8tops collinsbrothers are the two half top mfgs I know of.
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Jan 20, 2011 20:36
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:They're supposedly "working on it". Your jeep is actually what got me thinking about it. Hopefully in a year or so they'll be available 
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Jan 20, 2011 21:55
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I couldn't see it in a swb jeep. Not like its a mega hauler, but it's nice having the lj. The half top I read about was going to be for a 4 door modle which I can't figure out but I think the swb would just bee too short.
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Jan 20, 2011 22:17
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incredibull posted:Are you sure the chattering noise wasn't the engine pinging under load as it bogged down for whatever reason? This doesn't happen if you put it in reverse while in 2WD? I was standing outside, and the sound was very solidly coming from under the car. I suppose it's possible that the engine bay directs the sound pinging out that way as well, but it sounded like a different tempo than a cylinder detonating. He also got the CEL thrown today while just driving around, though with no other symptoms. Is the first step inspection of vacuum hoses, and if those are good, replacement of the MAP sensor?
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Jan 20, 2011 22:36
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All I know is that the one time I had my 4.0 bog down below idle speed, it sounded like a diesel. Yes, check all vacuum lines. There aren't many on the 4.0 and they should be easily visible across the manifold. My '04 only has ports on the top and side of the intake manifold, but the '00 intake is different, so check all around. Make sure nobody did something stupid like connecting a transmission/transfer case/axle vent line to the intake manifold (this is the first thing I thought of when you said the engine bogged down in reverse). About replacing the sensor.. Note that from the Jeepforum link you posted, the TPS could be a problem as well. You can test the TPS and MAP too if you have enough proper sized wiring crimps around to build a small breakout connector to get a multimeter inline of the circuit. Let me know if you want to do that, I have the FSM for the '99 4.0 and can explain the process of testing either the MAP or TPS - they're just resistors that vary a 5V reference output depending on atmospheric pressure or throttle position. Or you could just replace both sensors.
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Jan 21, 2011 01:01
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Veeb0rg posted:
Replaced the starter today, it worked 3 times and then blew up. I really dislike advance auto right now.
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Jan 21, 2011 07:18
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Veeb0rg posted:Replaced the starter today, it worked 3 times and then blew up. Advance sold me the wrong alternator twice. I had to take in the original and set it side by side to prove to them that their replacement would not fit.
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Jan 21, 2011 22:26
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What is the general consensus on the new Jeep Wranglers. Don't see too many in this thread, although I know a lot of people how the older ones to mod and beat the poo poo out of. I'm looking at a new one myself, hopefully a 2010 for the discount as they roll them off for the 2011's. I've read about them on several of the "car websites" but wondering if SA Jeep Megathread has an opinion. `
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Jan 21, 2011 23:23
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Untagged posted:What is the general consensus on the new Jeep Wranglers. Don't see too many in this thread, although I know a lot of people how the older ones to mod and beat the poo poo out of. I have one and I like it. Any specific questions ? The only thing it needs is a nifty air-system to fill the tires or deflate them with the push of a button, like the hummers have.
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Jan 22, 2011 03:18
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Any beefs with the 3.8 engine? It seems like a poor fit with the Wrangler.
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Jan 22, 2011 04:50
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jonathan posted:I have one and I like it. Any specific questions ? The only thing it needs is a nifty air-system to fill the tires or deflate them with the push of a button, like the hummers have. How is the build quality in this latest generation? You get these old ones from years ago that take a licking and keep on ticking - I'm just worried the family-suv-ification might have crept in. Also, ease of maintenance? I liked the fact that older models were very easy to work on and modify. While I don't intend on anything major, does the newer model and body style continue that same tradition? And do you have the four door? I'm leaning towards the extra space option potentially but I'm wondering if it is just as capable a truck off-road as the shorter version. Google seems to tell me it is, but I don't have any first hand accounts.
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Jan 22, 2011 05:27
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Does anyone have any idea where I could track down a wiring diagram for an 05 TJ? I came across a bare wire that goes to the starter while trying to track down a weird issue I'm having, and I'm trying to trace it back to where it comes from with no luck.
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Jan 22, 2011 22:21
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grnberet2b posted:Does anyone have any idea where I could track down a wiring diagram for an 05 TJ? I came across a bare wire that goes to the starter while trying to track down a weird issue I'm having, and I'm trying to trace it back to where it comes from with no luck. According to my Haynes, the only wires going to the starter are a red one from the battery and a brown one from the starter relay. Maybe it's a grounding strap, they are normally bare stranded wire. What else is nearby? Could it be for something else?
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Jan 23, 2011 04:43
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This one's yellow up to the point that it goes bare: There is a code saying that the Crankshaft (or Camshaft) is misaligned, so I'm wondering if it might somehow go to the crankshaft position sensor on the transmission in that area, or even be related.
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Jan 23, 2011 05:27
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grnberet2b posted:This one's yellow up to the point that it goes bare: That is your CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) it should be on the rear of the engine by the bellhousing on the drivers side  Click here for the full 1024x738 image. If it is the Camshaft Position Sensor its on the distributor on the passenger side of the engine 
CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Jan 23, 2011 |
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Jan 23, 2011 05:51
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CommieGIR posted:That is your CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) it should be on the rear of the engine by the bellhousing on the drivers side Isn't there a recall going on for the crankshaft for this model year 4.0? Should look it up at the Jeep web page!
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Jan 23, 2011 07:01
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I think I've got Death Wobble. Everyone I've read has said it happens post-lift, but my XJ is stock height. Am I incorrect in assuming that it's uncommon, but not impossible to get DW in a non-lifted XJ?
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Jan 23, 2011 15:11
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Yes it can happen at stock height. As I mentioned to you in an earlier reply, it's most commonly due to either unbalanced tires or a loose suspension component, usually the track bar.Steiler Drep posted:Isn't there a recall going on for the crankshaft for this model year 4.0? Should look it up at the Jeep web page! There's a TSB, not a recall (there should be) on the camshaft synchronizer for the 2005-2006 4.0. These model years don't have a camshaft position sensor, it was replaced by the synchronizer. The drive gear of the synchronizer gets chewed up and eventually it may wipe out the drive gear on the camshaft. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/2005-06-jeep-opda_cps_distributor-failure-1144202/ grnberet2b, this is probably your issue, and you might want to pull the camshaft synchronizer and check it out after reading the Jeepforum thread, or have a mechanic check it out if you're not comfortable doing it. Instructions for realignment of the synchronizer are there. incredibull fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Jan 23, 2011 |
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Jan 23, 2011 15:44
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Thank you, incredibull. I read your post and did the follow-up reading which all led me to believe that it was almost purely a lifted issue. So thank you, sir. appreciate the advice, and I have made an appt at a local Jeep expert for a check-up/troubleshoot/fix deal.
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Jan 23, 2011 17:14
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brickswereshat posted:I think I've got Death Wobble. Everyone I've read has said it happens post-lift, but my XJ is stock height. Am I incorrect in assuming that it's uncommon, but not impossible to get DW in a non-lifted XJ? Deathwobble affected pretty much every Cherokee, but fear not! It can be fixed.
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Jan 23, 2011 17:15
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incredibull posted:grnberet2b, this is probably your issue, and you might want to pull the camshaft synchronizer and check it out after reading the Jeepforum thread, or have a mechanic check it out if you're not comfortable doing it. Instructions for realignment of the synchronizer are there. Sadly enough, I had that repair done in June of 2010, but the issue did present in a similar way, so maybe that's the issue again <_<
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Jan 23, 2011 19:54
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Toying with the idea of selling my Jeep, posted an ad on craigslist. Do you guys thing the price is fair? I would like to get $3k+ for it: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/2175852825.html
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Jan 23, 2011 20:01
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I went ahead and pulled the OPDA - the results are not encouraging. After only about 7K miles, it looks like this: You can see wear remarkably similar to failed units on the gear teeth. I'm not comfortable making changes to the shaft, but I'm going to go to the dealer the next time I get a chance, raise a bit of hell, then call Chrysler with a complaint, referencing my previous experience (thank god I kept that claim number). If no one goes for the "yup, we hosed up" route, I'll change the oil and hope for the best. I always wanted a Jeep, now I'm starting to regret buying one
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Jan 24, 2011 00:16
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grnberet2b posted:I went ahead and pulled the OPDA - the results are not encouraging. After only about 7K miles, it looks like this: This worries me as well. My sister has an 06 Wrangler... When she parks it while she's deployed this summer, I'll be looking at her OPDA assembly.
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Jan 24, 2011 00:42
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I wouldn't say that's too bad, but it's hard to see in the light. If it's more than gear face wear and is actually worn down on the tooth ridges, then it's bad. I've been looking through all of the threads about the OPDA and one thing I can't find solid consensus on is: is the gear itself the same hardness as the previous CMP sensor used on '99-04 4.0s? Some people say it is, but how can they prove it? Chrysler has a patent on the design (this is part of the problem, there are no third-party suppliers for it due to the patent), and is unwilling to share any information about it. If the metallic composition and hardness is the same on both the sensor and the cam, why is the gear face failing? The leading theory is that lack of ZDDP in modern gasoline oil is causing these problems in the 4.0, as well as premature lifter failure. But it still doesn't explain why the previous CMP drive gear seems to be indestructable. If you read further into the OPDA thread, you'll also see that the sensor fails at the top of the housing because the shaft has no lubrication beyond a factory-greased needle bearing. Makes me pretty glad I have an '04. I had no idea about these issues when I bought mine.
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Jan 24, 2011 02:50
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It didn't seem significantly worn down, but I could feel small indentations. Without seeing a brand new one, or one with only a hundred or so miles on it, I couldn't say for sure whether that is normal or not - I'm just basing it off of pictures of other ODPAs. I'm also lost as to why it wouldn't be as good as the '99-'04s. I know that they changed the main assembly between '04 and '05, but I don't know what all changed. I'll probably change over to the 0W-40 or 5W-40 suggested in the thread you linked. If nothing else, maybe it will prolong the lifetime of the gears. 
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Jan 24, 2011 03:02
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Just to clarify on that oil, it's not about the weight, it's about being a diesel oil - the key is high ZDDP content which all diesel oils have. Personally I run Rotella-T synthetic 5w-40 in my 4.0 since I bought it.
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Jan 24, 2011 03:39
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incredibull posted:Just to clarify on that oil, it's not about the weight, it's about being a diesel oil - the key is high ZDDP content which all diesel oils have. Personally I run Rotella-T synthetic 5w-40 in my 4.0 since I bought it. Aha - thanks for pointing that out. I knew it was something special about the diesel oil that made it slightly better, but didn't make the connection between it and ZDDP.
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Jan 24, 2011 18:25
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Untagged posted:How is the build quality in this latest generation? You get these old ones from years ago that take a licking and keep on ticking - I'm just worried the family-suv-ification might have crept in. Also, ease of maintenance? I liked the fact that older models were very easy to work on and modify. While I don't intend on anything major, does the newer model and body style continue that same tradition? -Build quality: Better than older jeeps, but it's still chrysler-like fit n finish. The door latches tend to rattle. A fix is to put a piece of electrical tape on the door-hook things in the door frame. 5 minute fix and fixes a weird rattle when offroad that sounds like it's from the seatbelt, but is actually the door latch. similar issue with the latch for the rear tailgate. Every few months I take a torx and loosen the latch, knock it in a few mm, then tighten. It likes to work itself rearword which allows the tailgate to not be held tightly enough to the rubber trim, which causes a rattle. I'm pretty sure it's because there is a 60+ lb tire/wheel that hangs off it. Getting a bumper mounted tire carrier would fix this, or, adjust every few months. No big deal. -Maintenance: Easy. Easy to drain engine oil, easy to replace filter, no distributor to worry about, front and rear diffs both have diff drain plugs, so you don't have to open the cover to swap fluid. Transmission fluid is easy to get to, as is transfer case. On the models with skid plats, the skid plates are easy to pivot out of the way once you unbolt them. -Family-suv pussification: They have abs, traction control and stability control. You can't disable abs (but why would you ?). You can disable traction control, I don't know if you can disable the stability control, but the stability is kind of annoying if you're trying to get sideways on dirt roads. You still can, but it pulls you back in line quickly. It works really well as a safety feature. Was traveling to the interior of bc in late december, and it was pretty cold out. Bare dry pavement, I was kinda tired. Cruising around 65mph with cruise control on, around a curve I hit some ice and wasn't paying attention. Felt the rear slip out a bit, but the jeep corrected before I had a chance to. -I have the 4 door and prefer wheeling it over the shorter wheelbase TJ's. During uphill and downhill stuff, it's much more stable. It does suffer from being easy to get hung up in the middle, but it's still shorter wheelbase than a toyota pickup, and people have no problems with those. Just pick your crawling lines accordingly. Everything on the JK that could be improved for wheeling over the TJ has been. The control arms are like 8" longer, so lifting it 4" doesn't cause a harsh ride, and they flex really really well. The longer arms make it so that the limiting factor is shock extension, not arm angle. With stock location shocks, adding a long arm lift kit wont give you any more flex, unless you go to a 6" lift or more. On the rubicon, the electronically disconnecting swaybar is a nice feature. I tossed out the rear swaybar, and just rely on the front for day to day driving. With the front diconnected (with a flip of a switch) and the rear gone, I rarely hang a tire off the ground. -Required upgrades: Rear bar-pin eliminators. They cost $20 from rough country and hold the shock to the frame much better. I've broken bar-pins and damaged shocks while driving at higher speeds on forrest roads. The eliminators fixed this. (probably cause by cheaper bar-pins being used in aftermarket lifts, never broke an oem mopar pin) The auto transmission benefits from an auxillary cooler. I used the high volume b&m cooler. Costed $60, comes with fittings. Just splice it into the factory rubber cooler lines and mount it with the supplied brackets. My upgrades: Rough country 3.25" lift (cheap, easy and good quality) Home-trimmed fenders (dremel tool and masking tape) 35" tires on 15" cragar steel wheels from summit racing mopar rubber floor mats daystar hood clamps (the factory rubber ones are a bit soft and you can see the hood move a bit when being passed by semi's etc) Future upgrades: 37" tires Trim 2" from rock-rails to avoid tire rub on rear tire well rough country winch plate with warn powerplant winch auxillary air-tank upgrade headlights to h4 bulbs with e-code lenses, swap out halogen oem flood-light bulbs for h10 HID bulbs, add a-pillar hid spot lights and also maybe some hid flood lights on a light bar above the bumper. 
jonathan fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Jan 24, 2011 |
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Jan 24, 2011 22:24
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jonathan posted:I sincerely appreciate it good Sir. I think I was sold before, but more reassured now. Nothing like SA consensus and approval. Now just need to work on getting it done.
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Jan 25, 2011 04:03
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I just got a '06 LJ (stock) and can't wait to do stuff to it. I got a lift kit from a jeep buddy with "Black Diamond" stickers in the boxes and stuff and I think it's a variable lift (like I can decide on 2to4 inches. I think.) I'll probably go with a 3inch and throw some tires on there in the summer. The lift kit looks like it has springs, shocks and a few other parts, I checked the shipping document and I don't see any parts missing. I've never lifted anything before so I think I'll just get a mechanic to install it. I'm also thinking of putting Rhino lining on the floor so when it gets dirty on the inside all I need to do is take a hose to it, like my mom did back in the 80's with her jeep. I can't wait to start breaking stuff so I can replace it with better stuff. Already broke the headlights, foglights and a couple of windshields due to logging trucks throwing rocks, anyone know if hood deflectors actually work? I keep the covers on the "Hella" lights I installed to keep them fresh for when I actually need them. I'm going to buy one of those semi-pro windshield repair kits for myself and so I can sell my services fixing neighbors windsheilds. Maybe I'll save up $9000 and get an awesome trailer. It has its own kitchen and water supply! Or maybe I could build my own by strapping a BBQ onto a water tank and duct taping a sleeping bag to the top. I love my Mustang, but I hate risking it by driving it in Canadian winters. Crane fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Jan 25, 2011 |
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Jan 25, 2011 06:49
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So I just picked up a 2010 Grand Cherokee for my wife, nice truck so far. I have started the project of getting a hitch on since it did not come with the tow package and we are moving the end of the week and need to tow a wrangler. So the big question, has anyone done this retrofit? I have the reciever and wiring harness on order at the dealership and reading the install instructions it says it will need a computer update to get the wiring harness working. I called the dealership and he said it would cost about $96 bucks, which seems way high to me. These is the starscan instructions to get the tow relays enabled: IN THE INITIAL START UP SCREEN • PRESS ------- VEHICLE PREPARATION • TOGGLE DOWN AND HIGHLIGHT ----- TRAILER TOW RELAY OUTPUTS • PRESS ------- START • PRESS ------- NEXT> • PRESS ------- ENABLE FOLLOW ON SCREEN PROMPTS • PRESS ------- NEXT> • PRESS ------- FINISH VERIFY TRAILER TOW KIT FUNCTIONALITY Is this really $100 worth of labor?
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Jan 27, 2011 03:05
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I don't know if you really have a choice. If they have to use an expensive scan/diagnostic tool to enable the feature there aren't many other options short of buying the tool yourself (in most cases $10k+). They're probably charging you an hour of labor which I think is pretty standard even for simple diagnostics.
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Jan 27, 2011 03:40
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Cross posted from the DC thread. For those of you that arent here, it is snowing bad and its taking people like five hours to go ten miles: Welp, my wife threw in the towel so I drove in the Jeep to go meet her so I could drive her and out son the rest of the way home. This is what I came outside to:  Then this is after the drive to meet her (Yes that is my 2011 Subaru that was only somewhat capable in the snow):  Closeup of the beast: 
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Jan 27, 2011 04:26
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Bojanglesworth posted:Cross posted from the DC thread. For those of you that arent here, it is snowing bad and its taking people like five hours to go ten miles:
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Jan 27, 2011 18:02
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Braincloud posted:Pfft, and you're thinking of selling it. Proof you need to keep it! Yeah, I was thinking I should keep it. I need to replace the rear brake lines with longer ones and get the SYE installed.
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Jan 27, 2011 18:07
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thebigdaddy posted:So the big question, has anyone done this retrofit? I have the reciever and wiring harness on order at the dealership and reading the install instructions it says it will need a computer update to get the wiring harness working. I called the dealership and he said it would cost about $96 bucks, which seems way high to me. Do the install first and see if you even need it programmed. Some of us on the dedicated Jeep forums have found the power module was already enabled for fogs or tow even though they weren't preinstalled. StarScan is painful and slow, so I'm not surprised they're billing what's probably an hour of labor for it.
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Jan 27, 2011 23:06
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Bojanglesworth posted:(Yes that is my 2011 Subaru that was only somewhat capable in the snow): Two words: Snow. Tires. But in DC, I don't know if it snows there frequently enough (snowfall amounts are another thing) to warrant dedicated snows. TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Jan 27, 2011 |
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Jan 27, 2011 23:19
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I am having the worst loving time trying to track this problem down. Here we go: I have an '88 XJ with the super deluxe vacuum disconnect front axle. Since it's old, beat up, and has 200k on it I am pretty familiar with it's various issues. Ever since I bought it in 2009, I have avoided using 4 wheel drive at all costs since it made an awful popping noise every time torque was applied through the t-case. I know, I am a lazy piece of poo poo and shouldn't own a Jeep without working 4wd. Today I was going to change that, after getting on a roll fixing my loose steering column. I have been reading for the past week about various fixes for the vacuum disconnect, and decided to go the most ghetto route possible. I took the motor assembly off, popped the shaft out and stuck several washers behind the shift fork to force it to stay in "locked" position. I tested the collar that slips over the axle, and inspected for wear before I threw it all back together. Things were surprisingly clean looking, even the fluid! I go to test the drat thing on a dirt road an hour ago, and the SAME POPPING NOISE happens when I'm in either 4hi or 4lo and apply torque or turn the wheel full lock. What the gently caress am I missing? It sounds like its coming from the front of the car, but I can't tell exactly. Does anybody have a clue as to what I should look for? Oh, and the U-joints on the front shaft look good with no play as well as the knuckles on each wheel.
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Jan 28, 2011 01:36
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