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Elm map bowl. 10 3/4" x 4 3/4"
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# ? Sep 7, 2012 19:49 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 18:11 |
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Make another bowl just like that, glue it upside down onto this one, and you just made yourself a globe for a fantasy series. Or a 3d Risk map.
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# ? Sep 7, 2012 21:52 |
I guess all that remains is to figure out how to get the spalting to grow just right so you can actually produce world-accurate maps.
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# ? Sep 7, 2012 22:19 |
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Well, given an infinite amount of spalted logs, you should be able to turn one that's accurate, so if you start now...
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# ? Sep 7, 2012 23:03 |
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What he needs to do is find a way to glue his heaps of shavings together and turn bowls out.
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# ? Sep 8, 2012 05:20 |
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Wasnt there a thread in here about a guy making his own cnc 3 axis router? I cant seem to find it.
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# ? Sep 8, 2012 19:53 |
You're probably thinking of Nerobro's thread. There was also El_Matarife who built a Joe's 4x4, could have been either of those. I ended up building the same one as Nerobro, although if I had space, I'd build a Joe's in a heartbeat. Those threads have long since gone into archives, though, I'm sure. Were you after some particular information, or just looking for the thread(s) in general? DIY is probably overdue for a dedicated CNC thread anyhow.
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# ? Sep 8, 2012 20:52 |
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I only wish I had an infinite amount of spalted logs. Spalted logs make me happy. 10.25"x3.25"
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# ? Sep 8, 2012 22:06 |
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Bad Munki posted:You're probably thinking of Nerobro's thread. There was also El_Matarife who built a Joe's 4x4, could have been either of those. I ended up building the same one as Nerobro, although if I had space, I'd build a Joe's in a heartbeat. Those threads have long since gone into archives, though, I'm sure. Nothing in particular, I was just interested in some reviews of kits. Perhaps im not the only one so yeah a cnc megathread would be nice.
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# ? Sep 9, 2012 17:03 |
What sort of work did you have in mind? How much space do you have? What's your budget? If you have the space, time, and money, I think Joe's 4x4 hybrid is still the de facto standard. And I think I've seen them expanded to support a full 4x8 sheet, which is super nice if that's the sort of thing you're doing. I love CNC talk, but I don't feel like I know enough to put together a good OP for a thread like that. Although I suppose it could just be as simple as "Let's talk about CNC rigs. Here's what CNC is all about, here are a couple styles/designs, here are some links for more info, GO." Which I guess is what most OPs are anyhow. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Sep 9, 2012 |
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# ? Sep 9, 2012 18:05 |
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A few from the last couple days.
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# ? Sep 10, 2012 23:15 |
What's that first wood? I like the curly bit a lot, looks extra silky.
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# ? Sep 10, 2012 23:20 |
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Walnut. The other two are cherry.
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# ? Sep 10, 2012 23:30 |
Oh, I can see that now. So I used my new bench top chain grinder to sharpen two chains and convert one to a ripping chain. THey work great, they cut my logs down like button. Only thing is now, something seems to be wrong with my chainsaw, I'm not getting any power. As soon as I put chain to wood, the engine bogs down and dies, not even putting any real pressure on it. My only guess is something's wrong with the fuel line or a seal thereon, it acts like it's sucking air. Means I got my firewood all logged up, but I only got about a foot into one of my big logs I was going to turn into blanks. e: Dumped the gas in the fire pit, going to let the tank air out tonight in case any water got in there when I accidentally left the saw out the other night (we've been starting to get cold/dewy nights, some wet air might have gotten sucked in.) Air filter is dirty, but I tried running it without the filter on and it didn't help at all. It's bad enough that I can kill it just by giving it a good deal of gas. Still starts as easy as ever: open the choke, 6 pumps on the bulb, 1-3 pulls and it'll turn over, 1/2 choke, 1 pull, fires right up, every time. Really hoping it's just bad gas, I don't feel like taking this thing apart enough to replace fuel lines and such. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Sep 11, 2012 |
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# ? Sep 10, 2012 23:37 |
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Just to eliminate the obvious: did you try a new chain that you haven't sharpened? Perhaps you put too much rake on the cutter and it's trying to cut too aggressively? Or maybe you ground too much raker off? You said it dies after it bogs down, so this probably isn't it, but better to start with the easy things.
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 01:40 |
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Maybe a fouled or burnt plug? Have you been running ethanol free gas in it? Ethanol eats small motors for breakfast.
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 01:42 |
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I'm having similar problems with my little Stihl. I replaced the filter, plug, and fuel line, but I didn't replace the impulse line while I had it apart. I haven't bothered to fix it all summer because I just use the big Husky to do everything. We had one gas station that sold ethanol free gas for about two years after everyone else switched over, but they too eventually succumbed. In workbench related news, I'm currently in the process of marking out and cutting the mortises and tenons for the legs. We had some ~4x6 pallet cants that we cut and never took to the pallet mill, and now they're too dry to take anyway, so I cut them about 37" long, then jointed and planed them down to uniform sizes. I had a problem, though, since I don't have a carcase saw or a tenon saw. I have one of these, but it isn't what you'd call a precision instrument, and it isn't easily sharpenable. I do, however, have three old Disston panel saws, two crosscut and one rip. They just need a little TLC. So I get to learn how to sharpen saws. I found this page on sharpening, which I got to from this thread, which is in this list of handy threads. I'm not going to go into how to do it, since that first link explains it much more completely than I could. So as soon as I get a free hour or two, I should have a nice sharp couple of saws to start cutting tenons.
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 02:19 |
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Maybe the bar/chain are too tight?
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 02:23 |
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Hey there is pretty good documentary on Netflix called "Note by Note". It follows a Steinway concert piano from creation to completion over the coarse of one year. Some amazing wood craftsmen in this movie. Kinda like an episode of How it's Made on steroids. Also I just got a Foster brand bandsaw. Gas anyone ever heard of these? Here is a picture: http://instagr.am/p/PaccHolSM0/
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 02:46 |
In my case, I know it's nothing to do with the chain because I took the bar/chain completely off and I can kill it just by giving it full gas. I tried easing it up to full throttle but it still craps out near the top. I'm still doubtful it's the plug since it starts so easily even when cold. Hoping that drying out the tank and putting fresh gas in will help, although the ethanol is a good point. Unfortunately, I don't think I necessarily have access to ethanol-free gas in PA. Would that really just affect the high-speed/high-torque end, though? Wouldn't that affect it all the way through? Serious question because I know poo poo about motors, of any size. All our pumps say "may contain up to 10% ethanol," which I read as "DOES contain 10% ethanol."
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Sep 11, 2012 |
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 03:52 |
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One Legged Ninja posted:So I get to learn how to sharpen saws. I found this page on sharpening, which I got to from this thread, which is in this list of handy threads. I'm not going to go into how to do it, since that first link explains it much more completely than I could. So as soon as I get a free hour or two, I should have a nice sharp couple of saws to start cutting tenons. Bob Rozaieski over at Logan Cabinet Shoppe has a few videos on hand saw sharpening and maintenance: http://logancabinetshoppe.com/podcast-tools.php
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 04:52 |
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So I promised my girlfriend I would build her a new jewelery box since hers broke. I've never done any woodworking before, so I have no tools to speak of save a cordless drill I found in a box and a hammer thats probably older than I am. I want the box to have 1/2 inch finger joints and after some research decided the best way to go about it was to get a router table. I saw this little router table on my local craigslist going for $35: http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3262495322.html This router any good? Any things I should look for when checking it out, besides the obvious?
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 05:40 |
I'd say if you really don't want to get into it more than that--which is absolutely fine--that router/table is probably okay. Make sure it runs, pull the collet out and look for any signs of damage on both the collet and the router in that area. Make sure the router has the collet capacity to handle whatever size bits you will need. 1/4" is normal, but 1/2" can be extremely useful and certainly isn't uncommon, although on cheaper routers it can be more rare. It looks like you've got a fixed base and plate that comes with it, that's good. Not everything you'll want to route is done on the table, sometimes you'll want to pull the router and apply it directly to the workpiece. If you don't mind detaching the fixed base from the router table every time, then you're good, but that can become a hassle pretty quickly. Another important feature is variable speed, and I can't tell from the picture what sort of speed control that one has, if any. Of course, you can buy a brand new hitachi for $100 at Lowes/HD, or as low as $80 if you catch it on sale or have one of those 20% coupons. That'll have 1/4" and 1/2" collets, variable speed, smooth start, and a fixed base. I have one in my CNC mill and it works great. Take one of those and look into building a table yourself and you should be able to get it done for about $100 depending on sales/coupons you might have, although of course, you'll have to invest more time if you build your own table. Look for Lowes/HD in your area online and try to find one that just has one or two of the aforementioned router in stock and you might be able to get the display model for 10-20% off. Re: building your own table, said table can be as simple as a thick piece of (nice, maybe mel laminated or at least smooth MDF) ply, with a hole in the middle and your fixed base mounted to the underside, and the whole thing stretched over a couple sawhorses. How are you planning on cutting your boards to size? I ask because you said your tool selection was extremely limited. If you have access to a table saw for cutting your boards down, you can use that for making your finger joints pretty easily. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Sep 11, 2012 |
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 06:02 |
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Super Waffle posted:...I want the box to have 1/2 inch finger joints and after some research decided the best way to go about it was to get a router table. If the router works well then it could be a good deal. Looks like it has a bit installed, take a piece of scrap wood and try it out. Those tables are really bare bones but it would get you started. It's not hard to build a nice table. Here is a simple jig you can buy for $21 or you can build your own from scrap wood or a plastic cutting board. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?action=showpost&postid=407192920
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 06:31 |
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Super Waffle posted:So I promised my girlfriend I would build her a new jewelery box since hers broke. I've never done any woodworking before, so I have no tools to speak of save a cordless drill I found in a box and a hammer thats probably older than I am. I want the box to have 1/2 inch finger joints and after some research decided the best way to go about it was to get a router table. If you have a lot of patience, and really, that's half of carpentry, you can try making the finger joints/dovetails/box joints by hand. A $10 coping saw and a $15 Japanese pull saw can do wonders.
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 14:15 |
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Jonny Quest posted:If you have a lot of patience, and really, that's half of carpentry, you can try making the finger joints/dovetails/box joints by hand. A $10 coping saw and a $15 Japanese pull saw can do wonders. I've been meaning to ask about this: are there any hand carpentry books or websites for someone in the position of no-power-tools apartment/no previous experience? Say I have $100-150 to spend and a few basic tools - power drill/hammer/level. Learning how to make boxes very very slowly would be dandy for me.
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 15:30 |
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bisonbison posted:Learning how to make boxes very very slowly would be dandy for me. Working with hand tools is very satisfying, not for me, but for some people. The only downside is that quality handtools can be expensive if bought new and working with hardware store quality tools can be very frustrating. An alternative is buying older tools but you first need to learn about tools so your money isn't wasted. Your basic set for boxes would be a rip saw, crosscut saw, chisels, a hand plane or two, and a marking knife. tl;dr Roy Underhill is your guy http://www.iptv.org/video/browse.cfm/program/142/woodwrights_shop
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 18:14 |
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You might also want to look at some of the videos from Bob at Logan Cabinet Shoppe. His workshop is a room in his house.
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# ? Sep 11, 2012 18:38 |
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And here's a collection of threads related to working with hand tools. I would also recommend any of Roy Underhill's books, but you can pick up most of what he writes about by watching his show. The biggest thing about working by hand is the attitude you have. If you can't live with imperfection, you'll be frustrated while learning. At the same time, if you don't aim for perfection, you'll do sloppy work. So you have to find a balance between the two that doesn't drive you insane. At the moment I'm more interested in the process of working by hand than the final results, otherwise I'd just use powertools and jigs and get things done much faster. If I had lots of free time, I would probably just go plane boards down to nothing simply to play with my planes. Now I want to go hold one... No! Must. Resist. http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/3100/3105.html (Watch the first minute or so, you'll start to understand my dilemma.) One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Sep 12, 2012 |
# ? Sep 12, 2012 02:25 |
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bisonbison posted:I've been meaning to ask about this: are there any hand carpentry books or websites for someone in the position of no-power-tools apartment/no previous experience? A workbench with a clamp makes life SO much easier
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# ? Sep 12, 2012 02:49 |
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One Legged Ninja posted:The biggest thing about working by hand is the attitude you have. If you can't live with imperfection, you'll be frustrated while learning. At the same time, if you don't aim for perfection, you'll do sloppy work. So you have to find a balance between the two that doesn't drive you insane. Oh god yes, this. All I wanted to do was build a simple Unabox by hand. The amount of do overs required gave me 'spares' to build 3 total--if only all the mistakes lined up. But it was a good learning experience that made me appreciate having access to my father's workshop with proper power tools. Something I do without at my place. And I second a good workbench--I could not have done it without my little Black & Decker Workmate.
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# ? Sep 12, 2012 17:28 |
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That unabox is deceptively simple. Cutting all those box joints by hand is probably tricky.
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# ? Sep 12, 2012 17:37 |
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Walnut 11.5x8"x2"
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# ? Sep 12, 2012 21:55 |
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ChaoticSeven posted:Walnut 11.5x8"x2" Whoa, that is beautiful.
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# ? Sep 12, 2012 21:57 |
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wormil posted:Whoa, that is beautiful. Seconded. How did you hold the bowl from the top to finish the bottom? It looks like the rim tapers the wrong way to hold it in a chuck. Or did you finish the bottom off of the lathe? Two days ago I successfully sharpened the coarser of the two crosscut saws, and decided the rip saw is sharp enough for now. So yesterday I marked out the double tenons on one leg and started cutting. I probably should have started with a back leg, just in case I messed the first one up, but where's the adventure in that? I need to clean out the space at the bottom between the two tenons before I can assemble it, but for now it's good enough to test fit. So today I took that leg and marked the underside of the benchtop for the mortise. I transferred the marks as accurately as I could to the top side, and started hacking. First I cut the sides of the dovetail on the lines, and I took a few kerfs out in between. Then I chiseled out the waste, leaving plenty to trim away to make a perfect fit. Next I started cutting the square mortise with the chisel. The square mortise almost perfectly lines up with a dog hole, so that's an inch less hard white oak I have to remove, plus it gives me a nice hole to work towards with the chisel. If you don't know what the double tenon I'm talking about looks like, there's an example about a quarter of the way down here. I only got about a half inch deep when I decided to call it quits for the night.
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# ? Sep 13, 2012 01:00 |
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Someone up and gave me a Vermont American router table. I have a router table and have been planning a new one. The VA table doesn't have a good reputation so I'm not sure what to do with it. I might take my old Sears jig saw that I haven't used in years and mount it upside down and see how that works out. Or I could try to beef up the VA table and see if I can make something of it. Maybe fasten mdf boards to stiffen the fence and table. Some birch ply between the legs to help contain sawdust. Any thoughts?
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# ? Sep 13, 2012 05:33 |
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wormil posted:Whoa, that is beautiful. Thanks One Legged Ninja posted:Seconded. How did you hold the bowl from the top to finish the bottom? It looks like the rim tapers the wrong way to hold it in a chuck. Or did you finish the bottom off of the lathe? I took it out of the chuck, flipped it around so the inside of the bowl was facing the headstock and put some soft grippy rubber inside. Then I brought the tailstock up to smoosh it against the chuck. That way you can turn of all but a lil' nub from the bottom. After that I take pliers and snap most off and finish with sanding. Another elm bowl with some curvies
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# ? Sep 15, 2012 21:47 |
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holy hell you're making me want a lathe. There's nothing I would like more right now than a beautiful wood coffee cup with the right contour/weight/balance
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# ? Sep 16, 2012 03:35 |
A lathe would be lovely, wish I had room for one. I feel in love while doing an engineering course. At least I get to see all the beautiful things you people make!
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# ? Sep 16, 2012 20:32 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 18:11 |
Guitarchitect posted:holy hell you're making me want a lathe. There's nothing I would like more right now than a beautiful wood coffee cup with the right contour/weight/balance http://rizaydog.webs.com/treadlelathebuild.htm I will make this one day.
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# ? Sep 17, 2012 03:05 |