Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
My friend Jack had been ignoring a bad balljoint on his 97 Accord for like a solid 5 years at one point, it was solidly into the point where it makes those horrible creaking screeching noises over any bump or turn, ie dry metal on metal contact. One day he left a BBQ at my place and made it a solid 200ft up the dirt road behind my house before the ball snapped right off of the stud and the wheel went all BTTF tilty, splitting the cv joint in the process.

We half rear end dragged it onto my tow dolly and back down the road to my house, he hitched a ride home with someone else and we did new balljoints, wheel bearings, and brakes on both sides (due to the idiotic design of that era Honda, the balljoints are trapped by the unit bearings, the rotors are also trapped by the unit bearings, and it needed brakes anyways...) Plus a CV shaft on the corner that came totally apart.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Ugh. So glad Honda ditched that design after the 5th generation Accord. 1990 - 1997 is how long they ran with it on the US market Accords. 7 years too long.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Yeah it was fuckin awful and they never should have done that. I don't even really understand what it gained them, it cost them 4 more bolts instead of 2 little rotor screws and maybe a tiny bit of metal saved on the rotor? Just all around a dumb choice.

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008
Yeah I remember customers needing to be talked down off the ledge when you'd tell them that stuff when they were expecting a job that SHOULD have been quick and easy, and cheap.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Iirc that design choice was because it made production easier/faster?

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



MRC48B posted:

Iirc that design choice was because it made production easier/faster?

Almost certainly. Ease of assembly >> ease of maintenance and repair.

afen
Sep 23, 2003

nemo saltat sobrius
The idlers on my Subaru shat themselves:


Luckily the EJ18 isn't an interference engine, so there's a chance of getting it running again!

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

afen posted:

The idlers on my Subaru shat themselves:


Luckily the EJ18 isn't an interference engine, so there's a chance of getting it running again!

Idle gears are the devil's tools.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

MRC48B posted:

Iirc that design choice was because it made production easier/faster?

I honestly can't see how. 4 larger bolts that need to be torqued to spec and handle brake loads, plus a more complicated heavier assembly that needs to be held in place while bolting the unit bearing on, vs "slap the rotor on and zip two Phillips screws in to hold it there till the caliper guy does his thing". And that's even assuming the rotor screws are needed at all, they're not a thing on the jeeps I'm used to, you just use one hand to hold the rotor straight while you install the caliper with the other.

It also means 4 tapped holes in the rotor instead of two smaller countersunk holes (normal Honda style) or no extra holes (Jeep style.). I just can't understand why they'd do this. It has zero benefits I can logically find. Which is probably why they only did it for 8 model years and then stopped again.

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.


Yeah, just say no to rotor screws. It's just another thing to rust solid. The wheel does a good enough job of keeping the rotor in place.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

afen posted:

The idlers on my Subaru shat themselves:


Luckily the EJ18 isn't an interference engine, so there's a chance of getting it running again!

Surprised it wasn't the cogged idler. That one blew up on my wife's car last year. It's a 98, so interference, but i got real lucky and it didn't bent valves. It only jumped a few teeth and those engines aren't very interference.

And yes, there are levels of interference... You get a TDI off by one tooth and it'll lunch itself.

Bloody Pom
Jun 5, 2011



Should probably clarify that the fuckled ball joint I posted on the last page was a customer's, not mine.

(the real failure was them sending the photos in .HEIC format which forced me to break out the snipping tool :argh:)

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

bull3964 posted:

Yeah, just say no to rotor screws. It's just another thing to rust solid. The wheel does a good enough job of keeping the rotor in place.

Yeah the rotor screws are there for factory convenience not us shop people. Likely because the guy putting the rotors on and the person putting calipers and pads on aren't the same people on an assembly line.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



^^^ Based on my replacement of bearing hubs on my son 's 2000 Accord (cue Anvil Chorus) my guess is that the entire front knuckle assembly for that wishbone suspension was carried to the install line with the rotor already attached & those loving bolts kept it from falling off between its assembly area & the main line.

Use paper tape, you fuckers.

They still blocked in the dust cover for the rotor that way. God help you if you forget to install it first

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Jun 13, 2022

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
If anyone still has one of those 90-97 Accords, I think at this point you can get some junkyard parts from an Acura 2.3CL or maybe a first-generation Odyssey (the tiny one) and convert the brake rotors to "normal."

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Wouldn't that require replacing the entire front suspension with that from the van or the CL?

I thought the 2.2/2.3CL was a 5th gen Accord with makeup anyway?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

PainterofCrap posted:


(cue Anvil Chorus)

I swear I've never heard this phrase before, and then I just started seeing it in a c. 1920s comic posted in the comics thread in BSS.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


bull3964 posted:

Yeah, just say no to rotor screws. It's just another thing to rust solid. The wheel does a good enough job of keeping the rotor in place.

Never understood that particular Japanese fetish.
Nor the "bolt the rotor to the BACK of the hub" thing I ran into on my girlfriend-now-wife's '78 Celica. Less of a problem than on the Hondas we're talking about, since it's old-school tapered bearings, but still doubles replacement time. That said, I think it still beats the older-school American style one-piece hub and rotor (which my '79 Mazda RX-7 *also* has, along with the rotor screws on the rear discs...)

Bloody Pom posted:

Should probably clarify that the fuckled ball joint I posted on the last page was a customer's, not mine.

(the real failure was them sending the photos in .HEIC format which forced me to break out the snipping tool :argh:)

That's Apple's fault. I have a plethora of HEIC photos now, thanks to that...
Thankfully, I'm in the Apple ecosystem with my Mac, so it doesn't even notice.

Safety Dance posted:

I swear I've never heard this phrase before, and then I just started seeing it in a c. 1920s comic posted in the comics thread in BSS.

dum PANG! da-dum PANG! da-dum PANG! da-dum PANG!, da-dum PANG! da-dum PANG! de dum PANG! dum.
A Looney Tunes staple.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
If you right click on a HEIC you can go to quick actions and click convert to jpg

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

Darchangel posted:

Never understood that particular Japanese fetish.
Nor the "bolt the rotor to the BACK of the hub" thing I ran into on my girlfriend-now-wife's '78 Celica.

Landcruiser 100 is exactly the same as this, except that has the lovely complication of its 4wd so you’ve got the driveshaft for the front end into the hub, the drive flange onto the hub, the double nut locked tapered roller bearings on the stub axle and then you can take the whole hub off and undo the rotor off the back of the hub. Which you have to do if you want to change a wheel stud cos it’s broken…

Hilariously there was a recall out on the 100’s because the bolts backed out due to lack of loctite from factory and then you hit the brakes and nothing really slows down!

Bass Ackwards
Nov 14, 2003

Anything can be used as a hammer if you try hard enough.

Ferremit posted:

Landcruiser 100 is exactly the same as this, except that has the lovely complication of its 4wd so you’ve got the driveshaft for the front end into the hub, the drive flange onto the hub, the double nut locked tapered roller bearings on the stub axle and then you can take the whole hub off and undo the rotor off the back of the hub. Which you have to do if you want to change a wheel stud cos it’s broken…

Hilariously there was a recall out on the 100’s because the bolts backed out due to lack of loctite from factory and then you hit the brakes and nothing really slows down!

*laughs in FWD Volkswagen countersunk splined hub bolts*

Dak-dak-dak-ZZZSZzzzzzz-crunch-swearing.

Zopotantor
Feb 24, 2013

...und ist er drin dann lassen wir ihn niemals wieder raus...

Safety Dance posted:

I swear I've never heard this phrase before, and then I just started seeing it in a c. 1920s comic posted in the comics thread in BSS.

This anvil chorus?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zD3UaM_tnyM

Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

I don't know why I decided to look at /r/Ford today, but I sure am glad I did:



OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
^^ lol

they actually bothered to ask reddit before bidding on it and still went ahead and bought it, even though you can see it's hosed in the auction pics

https://www.gcsurplus.ca/mn-eng.cfm?snc=wfsav&sc=enc-bid&scn=419302&lcn=568356&lct=L&srchtype=&lci=&str=1&lotnf=1&frmsr=1&sf=ferm-clos

6500 CAD

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Holy poo poo. Those strut towers... and basically every other fastener under the hood attached to the body. That's a parts car.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


BraveUlysses posted:

^^ lol

they actually bothered to ask reddit before bidding on it and still went ahead and bought it, even though you can see it's hosed in the auction pics

https://www.gcsurplus.ca/mn-eng.cfm?snc=wfsav&sc=enc-bid&scn=419302&lcn=568356&lct=L&srchtype=&lci=&str=1&lotnf=1&frmsr=1&sf=ferm-clos

6500 CAD

That much that much rust showing in the auction pictures, there's going to be a *lot* more not shown. Like in those almost completely unlit undercarriage photos, for example. Buyer was an idiot with too much money.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Flood car I take it?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



My first thought was that this was a New Jersey Sandy casualty.

I remember flood cars from the ‘77 Johnstown flood, and those fuckers were a plague on the local market for a decade.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Hahahahahahahaha it's in North York ON

That's basically upstate NY/OH/MI levels of rust fuckery. I guarantee you that thing is totally hosed even where they haven't looked at it yet.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

The best part? It's a hybrid that was parked for 2+ years, so you know that HV battery is hosed.

Zero One
Dec 30, 2004

HAIL TO THE VICTORS!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9i5ATxHg-vE

Edward IV
Jan 15, 2006

For context, this is what started it all.

Edward IV posted:

So I had a bit of a scare today with my Forester XT when my dash started to light up like a Christmas tree; specifically the ABS, parking brake light, and battery light. This was after sitting for a few minutes with the engine off after I had filled up with gas so everything was fine up to that point. I was in a parking lot fiddling with an add-on for my head unit. After getting everything in order, I start the engine and start to pull out of the lot when the aforementioned lights lit up and my head unit turned off and reset. I immediately stop to try to figure what was going on but everything would go back to normal including the dash. When I gave the engine some gas to pull away, everything lit up again. I'm utterly confused as the engine sounded fine as far as I could tell. Then I look over at my Cobb unit and see the battery voltage is reading a min and max of 13 and 18 volts respectively. :stare:

I pull back into a spot and do the old turning it off and on trick and hoping for the best as I don't want to deal with having to get the car towed home. Fortunately, that was all it needed and the Cobb was reading a more normal 12-ish volts. I guess what was happening is that the alternator or whatever was regulating the voltage was malfunctioning and blipping the engine would cause the alternator to send out excess voltage. The head unit resetting was probably an over-voltage protection mechanism kicking in.

This is something I probably should keep an eye on but since restarting the car fixed it and the issue hasn't come back while driving this isn't a must do unless I'm told otherwise. Just wondering if this could be attributed to an old battery (it came with the car and I've had it for over two years) and what part I should be be expecting to repair or replace if the problem becomes more persistent.

Then things escalated somewhat quickly.

I just got home from dealing with the aftermath of the voltage regulator crapping out. So I'm going to try to keep this as succinct as I can so I can clean up, down a beer, and get some sleep.

Basically, turning it off and on again stopped working and the voltage was reading 15 V at idle and would rise with engine revs. I wasn't going to dare take it past 3000 rpms as I was reading 18 V so I could basically only crawl with the car and uncomfortably since 18 V was about when the dash would light up. And of course this happens 40 miles from home and at 6pm when many auto repair shops around when I broke down in North Bergen were closing for the day. Managed to enlist the help of a good Samaritan from one of the shops to help me out and lend me his tools and skills as I had foolishly left my tools at home.

The plan started out with getting the battery to closest AutoZone which was a mile away and as it turns out up a rather steep hill. I figured to check the battery first because I could more easily take it there instead of the car without the aid of a flatbed. In addition to taking out the battery and concurring with me that the ground strap looked fine, my help also drove me to the AutoZone because gently caress lugging a car battery one mile up a hill.

Good thing too because it turned out the battery was pretty healthy. The AutoZone tech even ran the test a few times. At that point, I was at a complete loss because that meant the alternator is bad and needed to be replaced. I didn't realize how trivial replacing the alternator would be at the time so I felt like I hit a dead end and was going to need to get the car towed 40 miles back home. It also didn't help that I was parched with thirst so I walked over to the Walgreens in the same lot while walking over a couple of homeless people in the process. Then I get caught up in a really long line after getting a Gatorade and water because both cashiers were dealing with customers that had some issues with payment using coupons or vouchers or whatever because North Bergen isn't a nice place. It's not Newark bad but it looks like a predominately disadvantaged Hispanic population. I know I said I was trying to keep it succinct but I wanted to give context of what I was surrounded by while I was distraught.

After finally paying for my drinks and quenching my thirst, I meet back up with my new friend and get his opinion on what I should do next. At first, he said to I should get the car towed home. However, we turned our attention to the alternator and decided to check if this AutoZone had the alternator I needed in stock. As it turns out, they did have precisely one so I decided to go for it.

Roadkill-style, BABY!









And that did the trick. Didn't have a torque wrench on hand but we tightened everything as hard as we could just so I could drive home. It's also just so happened that I had bought a pair of six packs of alcohol-free Asashi beer from the near by Japanese grocery store. While it's alcohol-free, it's also imported from Japan as opposed to Italy. I just wanted to see if there was a discernible difference as I'm not fond of the Italian one though that may have to do with the beer not being cold enough because it didn't foam up when poured into a glass. I'm not a beer snob or an expert by any means but if Kaneko really digs it I figure I try it out. In any case, I gave the guy one of my six packs as thanks.

a sexual elk
May 16, 2007

My wife’s brand new Outback has a bunch of weird gremlins, car half on and half off. And Jesus how the gently caress are the mice getting into the cabin, I’ve stuffed every hole with steel wool, are there no rodents in Oz?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

a sexual elk posted:

My wife’s brand new Outback has a bunch of weird gremlins, car half on and half off. And Jesus how the gently caress are the mice getting into the cabin, I’ve stuffed every hole with steel wool, are there no rodents in Oz?

I suspect the two are related. The mice are likely chewing up the wiring.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

STR posted:

Wouldn't that require replacing the entire front suspension with that from the van or the CL?

I thought the 2.2/2.3CL was a 5th gen Accord with makeup anyway?

I believe you have to get the front knuckles and basically everything attached to them. The wheel bearings, the hubs, the brake rotors. Maybe the calipers, too. I don't remember. The knuckle from the CL/Ody will then bolt right onto the upper and lower control arms of the Accord. In any case, I think people motivated to perform this swap usually ended up doing some kind of dual-piston caliper swap at the same time. I believe the hot factory calipers were NSX (good luck finding those) or later Acura Legend (more realistic).

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

a sexual elk posted:

My wife’s brand new Outback has a bunch of weird gremlins, car half on and half off. And Jesus how the gently caress are the mice getting into the cabin, I’ve stuffed every hole with steel wool, are there no rodents in Oz?

Does it have the sunroof? My parents Outback has issues due to the drain from the sunroof getting clogged and then spilling into the fuse box under the hood. Dad ended up sealing the sunroof shut and that has fixed the problem.

LifeSunDeath
Jan 4, 2007

still gay rights and smoke weed every day

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewufRwrayTI

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

Of course it has Florida plates.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

MrYenko posted:

Of course it has Florida plates.

Sometimes I just like to see how easy it is to get information online.
2011 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD - 1GC1KYC85BF238019
Reported stolen in 2019, last sold 2014.
Florida ownership history, including owner name, is $1 from the state.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply