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c0ldfuse posted:How are you planning on finishing it? A dark and light stain? He's painting it, those colours in the plans are actually the final colours.
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Oct 2, 2012 23:20
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Nettle Soup posted:He's painting it, those colours in the plans are actually the final colours. I presume you're referring the workbench and not the motorcycle rocking horse to which I was referring. I hit reply before his post appeared so I can see the confusion.
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Oct 3, 2012 00:19
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I assumed that question was directed at the rockin' motorcycle, not my table. But yeah, either paint or dye, those are the final colors, no doubt. If I could get them to fluoresce ever-so-slightly in sunlight, I think that'd really nail the color scheme. In other news...  The log milling went great. I still have a bunch of logs to go, but I was able to get the big one (12" diameter, 7' length) more or less taken care of. I cut one end into half a dozen 12" blocks for bowls, and the other end I cut into a few slabs of varying thicknesses (and thickness  ). I still have a bit to go on that big log, I'll get 3 more boards like that 6" one in the lower right corner. The tree that came from was dead for a while, but my log has been sitting on in the weather for a couple months, so there'll need to be some drying left, which means I guess I can't start immediately processing these down further, but I'll sticker them in the garage and probably later this fall I can start playing with them some more. The boards range from 8/4 to 4/4, sometimes in a single board, go me. I think I only made one board that was "bad" in that it was probably an inch different from one end to the other. The rest were pretty consistent. I think with very little practice I could get much nicer lumber right off the log. Super excited! Tomorrow, after I've sharpened all my chains up again, I think I'll finish processing that log and then lay into some of the osage I've had hanging out in my shed for a year and a bit now. Falling in love with free wood all over again. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Oct 3, 2012 |
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Oct 3, 2012 00:27
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One Legged Ninja posted:Let me tell you, what looks like plenty of wood in rough cut form diminishes very quickly when you start cutting off all the crooked parts. I was going to make it 30-36" wide, but I just don't think I can pull enough nice pieces out of the pile to do it. Plus then I have to move a 350 lb top around. I also wanted to make it at least a full 8' long, but I just couldn't squeeze it out of some of the boards, so I'll make the end caps extra thick and hope it comes close. Necro-ing your workbench posts a bit because I want to comment, and because I am so incredibly happy to see someone in this thread making a Roubo. As far as the width goes, you are going to likely be very happy that your bench is only 24" wide rather than 30-36". Schwarz goes over this detail/reason often enough. My Roubo which I made in 2008 is only 20" wide and I have not wished it to be any wider. One Legged Ninja posted:
Good to see this kind of decision making. Once you finish 'The Anarchist's Tool Chest' you'll have even less tolerance for anyone being snotty about "proper". For pragmatic reasons I made my Roubo out of Southern Yellow Pine. One Legged Ninja posted:Fast forward to a few weeks ago, when I bought The Workbench Book, by Scott Landis. I was debating between this book and one of Chris Schwarz's books. I have read Schwarz's blog musings on benches, which is probably what set me on the path, but picked Landis' book for some reason that I forget now. Having not read Schwarz's books, I can't say if either one is better, so just pick whichever one you feel like. I would highly recommend Schwarz's second book, but I am an unabashed fanboy. Schwarz goes over every task you want to do with a bench, and what configuration is best for that task, in a way that leads you to building the appropriate bench for you. One Legged Ninja posted:So I lined them all up as square as possible and marked them near each end with a T-square. Today, in between doing actual work, I cut biscuit slots on both sides at each mark. I'm only using them for alignment, since they add a negligible amount of surface area to a 4” wide board. Next comes the frantic part. I need to put down 85 square feet of glue, insert 32 biscuits, assemble 17 boards, and put every clamp in the building on this thing before the glue sets, while trying to keep it as flat as possible. Don't count on getting pictures of this part This is why I glued up my top in three different sections, and then glued those three sections together. Your bench is looking awesome and thank you for sharing your photos and experiences! Hopefully it will inspire others in this thread to build a "proper*" workbench as well. I do want to build a Nicholson bench at some point if only to illustrate how fast and cheap someone could do it. (* - tongue firmly inserted in cheek)
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Oct 3, 2012 00:32
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GEMorris posted:Necro-ing your workbench posts a bit because I want to comment, and because I am so incredibly happy to see someone in this thread making a Roubo. Yeah, my original plan was to be around 24", then my dad suggested bigger, but I was limited in the end anyway. I've been using the top as a bench while working on the bench, and I think it's just about perfect so far. It's not going to be an exact Roubo, though, since I'm going to use a leg vise rather than a hook, and a few other changes. GEMorris posted:Good to see this kind of decision making. Once you finish 'The Anarchist's Tool Chest' you'll have even less tolerance for anyone being snotty about "proper". For pragmatic reasons I made my Roubo out of Southern Yellow Pine. I finished TATC in about 4-5 days while riding to work. There's just something about his writing style that I enjoy. I don't have any complaints about Landis' book, other than it being almost 25 years old. It was hard for me to pick the features I wanted, because I do a little bit of everything. I do the work of cabinetmakers, joiners, and carpenters, not to mention the odd thing here and there that doesn't fit into those categories. The traditional guilds would have locked me away for life. GEMorris posted:This is why I glued up my top in three different sections, and then glued those three sections together. Yep, if I had to do it over again, I would separate it into sections. But I would also pick better wood and let it season longer. I might even use epoxy instead of PVA. I'm glad you're enjoying it  I certainly don't need an ego boost, but I like to know that I'm not clogging everyone's internet tubes with junk.I've been spending a few minutes here and there working on the second leg, but it's slow going if I don't have a large portion of time to dedicate to it, so it'll probably be a little while before I have something new to take pictures of. We're putting a tigerwood deck on a house in a few weeks, though, so if I have any scraps left, I'll have to incorporate it somehow.
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Oct 3, 2012 02:57
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One Legged Ninja posted:Yeah, my original plan was to be around 24", then my dad suggested bigger, but I was limited in the end anyway. I've been using the top as a bench while working on the bench, and I think it's just about perfect so far. It's not going to be an exact Roubo, though, since I'm going to use a leg vise rather than a hook, and a few other changes. Oh my Roubo is definitely in the vein of Schwarz's first Roubo bench. I have a leg vise and love it. As I was budget constrained when I built the bench, it has only a 3" thick top, which led me to using the Veritas inset vise on the tail, which is actually a very good wagon vise in my opinion. Its no benchcrafted, but it also cost less than $100. One Legged Ninja posted:I finished TATC in about 4-5 days while riding to work. There's just something about his writing style that I enjoy. Schwarz is by far my favorite Woodworking author/personality. I like how he melds actual academic research and practical application without any hint of stuffiness or elitism.
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Oct 3, 2012 05:22
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So I'm developing an interest in wood working but I'm not really sure where to start. I've decided to use Halloween as a motivator to start something which should be very simple. It's a wizard's staff I'm making out of some backyard maple we'd cut down some time back. I have about a 4 foot length of it that I've removed the bark from and am working on smoothing down. In the process of removing the bark though there are a number of small spots where I got a little aggressive and left some noticeable divots. It's largely smooth but I'm not sure what the best approach is to smoothing out these spots. They're not deep (like a millimeter or 2) but they're too much for sanding by hand. I've got a dremel with a couple sanding attachements I'd considered trying (and played with a little on a scrap piece) but since I found this thread I figured it it was worth trying to glean a bit of the collective wisdom. Once I've finished the smoothing I plan to etch in channels that would hold EL wire and light it up. That will include using some leather straps to create a sort of handle and attaching a "reagent pouch" to contain the battery pack. That gets a little outside the realm of woodworking but hopefully gives an idea of what I'm going for.
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Oct 5, 2012 06:28
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DisposableHero posted:It's a wizard's staff I'm making out of some backyard maple we'd cut down some time back. If the wood is still green you should seal the ends otherwise they will dry too fast and split. You can use almost anything, latex paint, shellac, even watered down glue. As for the divots, a Dremel can chew up a lot of wood fast. I'm not sure how bad these divots are but I would consider just using a knife.
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Oct 5, 2012 07:35
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I'd probably buy something like this sanding mop, mount it in a drill and go to town on the staff.
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Oct 5, 2012 13:46
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DisposableHero posted:They're not deep (like a millimeter or 2) but they're too much for sanding by hand. I think you are underestimating how much wood some 80 grit sandpaper can tear through.
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Oct 5, 2012 14:17
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You could try using a cabinet scraper. It's my preferred tool for deep scratches. Sharpening them takes a little practice though.
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Oct 5, 2012 14:41
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wormil posted:If the wood is still green you should seal the ends otherwise they will dry too fast and split. You can use almost anything, latex paint, shellac, even watered down glue. The wood is no longer green. Should I still consider sealing the ends? I considered a knife. Maybe I can sharpen one of the ones I already have. The main one I use has gotten pretty dull over the years. SkunkDuster posted:I think you are underestimating how much wood some 80 grit sandpaper can tear through. That is what I figured but using 60 grit I'm making very little headway. Maybe it's the type of wood I'm using? As I sand it the effect is barely noticeable in the deeper spots. It's worked fine for more superficial stuff though. And I'll look into the cabinet scraper and sanding mop. Thanks for the replies guys.
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Oct 5, 2012 14:55
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I just inherited three old stanley planes: a 14, a 4, and a 220. I know a number of you have done some great restoration work, so I'm looking for some advice towards bringing these back up to speed. e: correction, they are not stanleys. They are: Shelton #14, Bailey #4, and Stanley #220. At least the body is, while the...what is it, the block? The hock? Something like that, the part that sits on top of the blade, that says Standard on the Shelton and Stanley on the Bailey. I have no idea of the history of these three planes or what franken-process they may have endured to get to their current state. In any event, they're not all rusted to poo poo and I'd like to fix them up a bit. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Oct 5, 2012 |
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Oct 5, 2012 20:46
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Stanley bought the rights from Leonard Bailey, who invented the iron-bodied plane as we know it now. So for a while they cast Bailey on the toe of their planes. The first thing I would do with them is sharpen the irons. Then see how they cut. Then determine what your end purpose is going to be. Are they going to be working tools, or just showpieces? If you just want to use them for their intended purpose, I would just tear them down and wipe everything with oil to get the gunk off, then make sure all the mating surfaces are flat and adjusted well. Maybe some 0000 steel wool and oil to get rid of any rust. Check around the throat (where the iron goes through the sole) for any cracks. If you have some, it isn't the worst thing in the world for a jack plane, but for the #4, you're going to have a hard time cutting a consistent shaving, and that's a bad thing for a smoother. If you want to make it shiny and like-new, there are hundreds of guides and posts and blogs online to pick from. Please don't use any sanders/grinders/power tools on it.  Those all look like they were taken care of for the most part. At least all the pieces seem to be there. Oh, and the piece that holds the iron in place is usually called the cap iron.
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Oct 6, 2012 01:21
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Yeah, they're from my father's shop, and while he used them for many years, they haven't seen wood for a good long while, I'm sure. He may have inherited them himself, I don't know for sure how old they are. I intend for them to be tools, although I'd like them looking as nice as is reasonably possible and to be in good repair since I probably won't use them a a ton, just because of the type of woodworking I do. I'll see what I can do with the irons, I'm set up for that Scary Sharp business, so that should get me going there for now.
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Oct 6, 2012 01:27
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Lever cap will give you a rough date
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Oct 6, 2012 05:59
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The one that says Stanley is clearly category C, which doesn't really tell me much except a start date, according to that pic. The other one, of course, is who knows what.
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Oct 6, 2012 14:27
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Pointless kidney shape tells you its not super old Heres more dating info http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/typing/typing.htm
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Oct 6, 2012 19:54
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Huh, that's really interesting! So here's what I found: - black japanning (<1962) - kidney-shaped lever cap hole (>1933) - straight knurling on brass adjustment rod (<1946, <1942) Those features seem to pin it down to type 16, 1933-1941, as well as some other matching features like patent number stamps/locations, lateral adjustment lever style/construction, and a few other things. So while not super old, it's pretty drat old to me, that's really nifty! That's just the #4, of course, I've no idea about the #14 Shelton. Thanks! e: It sounds like maybe Shelton was around from '32 to '54, after which their plane division was bought up by Stanley? And they're maybe the same as Bailey? I'm not entirely clear on the history here, but some post on a forum I think claimed that Shelton was the industrial line and Bailey was the higher end line? I don't know. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Oct 6, 2012 |
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Oct 6, 2012 20:28
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Bad Munki posted:Speaking of ADHD, guess who got his chainsaw working again and started processing some logs today? Spookmaster here has a crappy electric chainsaw we like to use and he laughed when I wanted to try the same but its awesome and now I want to make a chainsaw mill. In other news I turned a pumpkin.
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Oct 8, 2012 01:22
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Not an Anthem posted:Spookmaster here has a crappy electric chainsaw we like to use and he laughed when I wanted to try the same but its awesome and now I want to make a chainsaw mill. quote:In other news I turned a pumpkin. I don't even...why would...how...what?
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Oct 8, 2012 01:49
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The "shavings" coming off the pumpkin look so cool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siUaw_L-hrw Bet it would be an absolute bitch to clean up though
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Oct 8, 2012 07:26
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Not an Anthem posted:Spookmaster here has a crappy electric chainsaw we like to use and he laughed when I wanted to try the same but its awesome and now I want to make a chainsaw mill. I have an alaskan chainsaw mill. And actually it looks like I have the same poulan chainsaw as in that picture too! That said, it takes forever to try and mill something with that saw and you could never reasonably do any reasonably hard woods with it. Luckily ebay has lots of old 394xp and new 395xp husky chainsaws in decent shape. Just find a buyer who specializes in repairing them, don't buy it if it's the only chainsaw they are selling. Because seriously, if you are going to try a chainsaw mill for any decent board length it's going to suck if you are running it underpowered. It's great for getting the wood out an area so you can transport it to the shop. Without it I'd have had to either leave over 100 bf to rot or chop it up into 2 foot sections to realistically drag it out and get it to the trailer. Plus, in my shop I couldn't even process logs if they were too heavy so it's really the only way I could do it.
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Oct 8, 2012 14:20
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MrPete posted:The "shavings" coming off the pumpkin look so cool 1) NO ITS TERRIBLE. I don't have a shield, so they whip you in the face at 1000rpm temporarily staining your face vertically orange pinstripe. I have glasses, so my face was orange pinstripe minus my eye areas. 2) YES.
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Oct 9, 2012 00:53
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So, I think I'm going to try turning with a friend. Unfortunately I realized that I made a huge mistake by cutting down all my trees, and giving them to the lumber yard(woops!). Thankfully my neighbors all have tons of trees they will let me take down for them(huzzah!). Suggestions for a good "starter" project? Is a bowl too intense?
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Oct 9, 2012 14:54
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Have a question about wood: Trying to build a cheap assembly table (I moved and had to leave the one I had behind). Trying to find Kiln-Dried 4x4's in order to use as legs, but everything near me is Green or pressure treated. How bad would it be just to buy and use the green lumber? I live in Southern California so I guess I have a little more leeway in terms of weather than most, but I don't want to have a table that's going to warp and break. And I'm looking at Miter Saws, this one might looks like it might fit my needs, wondering if anyone had any input on this saw? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V5Z6RG/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_9?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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Oct 9, 2012 15:53
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Buy untreated kiln dried 2x12's, rip them, and glue them up. It is labor intensive, but it is the best way to get clear good quality non-pithy wood that won't twist into a corkscrew on you.
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Oct 9, 2012 17:28
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lord1234 posted:So, I think I'm going to try turning with a friend. Unfortunately I realized that I made a huge mistake by cutting down all my trees, and giving them to the lumber yard(woops!). Thankfully my neighbors all have tons of trees they will let me take down for them(huzzah!). Bowls are fun, although the inside can be harder to turn if you're not used to it, and depending on how you do it, you may find you also need some rather expensive accessories like a chuck. I think the usual first project most people start with is the candlestick holder. It's straightforward, allows you to try all sorts of different techniques, and is an all-around good place to start.
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Oct 9, 2012 18:05
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GEMorris posted:Buy untreated kiln dried 2x12's, rip them, and glue them up. It is labor intensive, but it is the best way to get clear good quality non-pithy wood that won't twist into a corkscrew on you. Hrmm, I don't need it to be the best quality, the last table I think I just used Kiln-Dried 4x4 and had no issues. I wish circumstances didn't end up requiring i leave that table behind. It's odd, none of the home stores (checked 4) and two lumber yards I checked stocked KD 4x4. 2x4 sure, I'm not sure about 2x12, though that would be pretty hard for me to work with in my current setup I think. Cutting it and ripping it would be challenging for me at the moment.
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Oct 9, 2012 19:29
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Crosspost from the tools thread. Looking for advice on some tools for hand woodworking.quote:I want to get some marking tools. I'd like to get these things:
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Oct 9, 2012 20:00
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So I wrote earlier in the thread that I had bought a new router and table off craigslist. I've never really done any woodworking before but I promised my girlfriend I would build her a jewelry box. I'm pretty excited about it all and I've made a little progress. Heres the router I got, a slightly older model Ryobi, the one before the current model: I want the box to have finger joints so my first step was to build a jig for the router. I used a piece of scrap wood I've had forever, the miter rail that came with the router, and some old screws I found:   For a thrown together thing made from literal garbage, the results were pretty good. I had to use a chisel to widen some of the gaps but I'm mostly happy with it: 
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Oct 9, 2012 20:34
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cbubbles posted:Have a question about wood: Trying to build a cheap assembly table (I moved and had to leave the one I had behind). Trying to find Kiln-Dried 4x4's in order to use as legs, but everything near me is Green or pressure treated. Buy select studs (2x4s) and just double them up. It's done all the time.
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Oct 9, 2012 21:36
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taqueso posted:Crosspost from the tools thread. Looking for advice on some tools for hand woodworking. A machinist or engineer square is essentially the same as a try square, but are made completely of metal. There is an article in the current Fine Woodworking that compares combination squares and double squares. Squares made by Starrett rated highest in both categories, but the runner-up for both was made by PEC and was less than half the price. I have a 12" combination square and a 4" double square while my brass and wood try square hangs on the wall for decoration. http://amzn.com/B0002FTRIY http://amzn.com/B000E0K4TS I use this marking gauge and I'm happy with it: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=59455&cat=1,42936 I've never seen a metal square-shaft marking gauge and I wanted an all-metal one, so that's how I chose round. In addition to a compass you might look for a set or two of dividers, they can be very useful for marking dovetails and other stuff. A knife for marking is called a marking knife or a striking knife. I think these are usually way over-priced. You can make one from an old high-speed tool steel blade from a jointer/planer or some jigsaw blades. Although I just noticed Lee Valley has one for $10 which might be worth a try.
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Oct 9, 2012 21:49
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Elston Gunn posted:In addition to a compass you might look for a set or two of dividers, they can be very useful for marking dovetails and other stuff. What makes a compass different than a divider? You are referring to this and not this, right?
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Oct 9, 2012 22:17
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taqueso posted:What makes a compass different than a divider? You are referring to this and not this, right? Correct, a caliper divider. Only difference is a compass has a clamp to hold a pencil. Some compasses come with a pointed piece you can put in to make it a divider but it's nice to have a dedicated one.
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Oct 9, 2012 23:08
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cbubbles posted:Have a question about wood: Trying to build a cheap assembly table (I moved and had to leave the one I had behind). Trying to find Kiln-Dried 4x4's in order to use as legs, but everything near me is Green or pressure treated. The other suggestions are good, but do you really need 4x4's? From a weight capacity standpoint, a 2x4 will be more than adequate for a table leg. Put some lateral or diagonal braces between them (which you should use with the 4x4's anyway) and it will be sturdy enough. I'm not trying to talk you out of 4x4's, because I like to overbuild everything, but if it's more trouble than it's worth, I wouldn't hesitate to use what's available. lord1234 posted:Suggestions for a good "starter" project? Is a bowl too intense? Bad Munki is exactly right. Something I never do enough when I try new things is practice. Stick some wood in the machine and try to rough it down to one consistent diameter. Then take two points down smaller and try to make a smooth curve between those points. Then play with the skew and try to get a good finish. Then cut some beads and coves. The bad thing about bowls is there is a lot of wood whipping around, with a lot of force far away from the tool rest. It's sort of like a having a 16 year old drive a big rig down a busy street. taqueso posted:I want to get some marking tools. I'd like to get these things: -There are some nice two piece 8' aluminum straightedges a the big box stores, if you need to cut sheet-goods. They also have rulers in the 1-3' range. You really can't have too many straightedges. -I haven't used a cutting gauge, but I can't really say that I'd prefer one over the other. A marking gauge works just fine for me. Personal preference, I guess. You can also make your own, there are a lot of easy to understand instructions out there. -I've never used any compasses for woodworking that weren't lovely sheetmetal pieces of garbage, but I did see one at Harbor Freight that was 6" for $4.99, and looked really stout. If I don't find a nice antique set, I might just go back and pick one up. It's a divider and a compass. -You'll use more than one square, as well. Get a small framing square, (or a large one of that's what you need) and a machinist's/engineer's square. The nice thing about the Mach. square is you can use it with a pencil to mark like a marking gauge, or 45*/90*, or along an edge to repeat a measurement over and over. But a framing square lays flat on a surface, which is handy. Whatever square you get, put it on the edge of a board you checked with your straightedge, mark a line, then flip the square left or right, and mark the line in the same place. If the line doesn't noticeably taper, it's plenty good for woodworking. -Don't spend a lot of money on a marking knife. It's literally the easiest knife in the world to make. Until you've done enough woodworking to legitimately wear one out, you don't need to spend money on the newest PMV-11-MkII-Unobtainium Laser Stealth Knife. Most people like double-bevels so they don't have to have two knives, though. -A square marking gauge is perfectly fine. Round shaft gauges are cheaper and easier to produce, materials notwithstanding. Like I said earlier, use what's available to you. Don't chase after some mythical decimal place of accuracy, and don't bother with holding out for the titanium alloy version of anything (unless you plan on working wood on the Edit: Get a bevel gauge, too. With it and a framing square you can measure and mark any angle, plus it's usually not as important that you get a specific angle, as that you get the same angle from one piece to the next. One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Oct 10, 2012 |
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Oct 10, 2012 00:01
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Christopher Schwarz parroted answers incoming!taqueso posted:- thick straightedge/ruler Make your own out of wood. Not there yet? Buy some angle aluminum from Home Depot. taqueso posted:- marking or cutting gauge (I think I want a cutting gauge, but could use some help deciding) Tite-Mark if you can afford it, you'll probably wish you had later. If you can't afford it, get one of the Veritas marking gauges from LeeValley.com taqueso posted:- compass As someone else did, I recommend dividers here as well or instead of. taqueso posted:- engineer's square Another make your own item, but if you want a "machinist precision" etc type of instrument, a 6" combination square is where its at. taqueso posted:- knife for marking (what is the name of this?) Cheapest answer is X-acto. Next is the new marking knife from LeeValley, best is either Czeck Edge or Blue Spruce. Schwarz prefers the Spruce knife. I really need to make a budget hand tool megapost one day. There are so many good options available today that weren't there even five years ago. One Legged Ninja posted:Edit: Get a bevel gauge, too. With it and a framing square you can measure and mark any angle, plus it's usually not as important that you get a specific angle, as that you get the same angle from one piece to the next. Of new tools, the only good answer here is the Shinwa. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Oct 10, 2012 |
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Oct 10, 2012 06:06
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Here's a short page on squares and making squares. http://woodgears.ca/squares/index.html I've been linking this website far too much but it does have alot of information on it that I feel is right to the point. The fancy finger joints are a bit much but i've gotten away with just using butt joints and a whole bunkle of nails and glue when making sacrificial ones. But much like the guy on that website i've had little luck even with relatively expensive carpenter's squares, and I don't feel my engineer's square would be suitable to woodwork if not only for the awkwardness of its weight.
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Oct 10, 2012 14:51
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wormil posted:Buy select studs (2x4s) and just double them up. It's done all the time. Thanks everyone for the input, I think I will either just use 2x4 for the legs or double up. The plan I have does have lateral support beams, so I think I can get away with just 2x4. The last time I built it I used 4x4 and really liked how solid/heavy the table was which is why I'd have preferred to go that route.
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Oct 10, 2012 16:36
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If I wanted to cut a 45-degree angle down a piece of 1x4 (to make a 6-foot-long mitered butt joint) would that be best/safest to do on a table saw like I was doing a rip, or with a circular saw? Is it even accurate/advisable to make a long cut like that with a circular saw?
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Oct 10, 2012 21:35
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