|
What the gently caress is happening here?  Just happened to notice this in the basement last night. No, I didn't install this. Edit: oh, this is the water heater. VVV poo poo, thanks. I'll continue this there. VVV teh jhey fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Oct 29, 2011 |
#
?
Oct 29, 2011 18:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:55 |
|
|
teh jhey posted:What the gently caress is happening here? We have a plumbing thread... The short answer is that you have steel water pipes and a leak or two. There is definitely a leak above that flexible supply hookup somewhere. If that supply line on the right in the top picture is the same line in the bottom picture, they it's possible that the drip is traveling down the supply line and pooling on top of your water heater. Get a big towel that you don't mind getting dirty and a flashlight. Clean up all the water and rust you can, then wait and watch for a trickle to form. You may just have to tighten a fitting a little more.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2011 18:38
|
|
|
I have a new house where the AC fan doesn't go off, even if the temperature is reached and even if I turn the air off completely. The fan on the unit outside isn't turning, it's the unit in the attic. When I turn the air handler off at the breaker, THEN the fan finally stops. What do you guys think? Faulty switch at the thermostat and replace the thermostat or is it something else? Thanks 
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2011 20:54
|
|
|
Socratic Moron posted:I have a new house where the AC fan doesn't go off, even if the temperature is reached and even if I turn the air off completely. The fan on the unit outside isn't turning, it's the unit in the attic. When I turn the air handler off at the breaker, THEN the fan finally stops. Probably just a smashed wire at the t-stat or air handler. Pull the t-stat off and take a picture of the hookup. Remove one wire at a time. Usually the terminal marked green is the fan, red is heat, yellow is cool. If you take a wire off and the fan shuts off, your t-stat is being stupid. Fix/replace it. If you end up with no wires connected, your air handler or wiring is being stupid. Fixing that may be 1) a contactor/relay, 2) the control board, or 3) some piece of wire is rubbed and shorting. The last is cheapest, therefore least likely. Most A/C guys that come to your place will go with option 2, which is easiest and most expensive.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2011 22:13
|
|
|
So I bought my first home, and I'm not the handiest of handy men so I have a quick question for you guys, and quite possibly many more to come. The previous owners didn't maintain the home's drainage system so I've now got a house with a sinking addition, and cracked basement. I've solved all the drainage issues and everything seems to be working fine and now I'm going to move on to repairing the damage done.   What should I use to fill this gap between the wall and the concrete? The gap ranges from 1/4" to 1.25" high, and under the window it goes fairly deep as well. This seems like too large a gap for silicone?
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2011 22:25
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:Fixing that may be 1) a contactor/relay, 2) the control board, or 3) some piece of wire is rubbed and shorting. The last is cheapest, therefore least likely. Most A/C guys that come to your place will go with option 2, which is easiest and most expensive. 9 times out of 10 we go with option 2 because that is what the problem is. Especially on Goodman air handlers. I've changed out at least 15 control boards on goodman units over the course of this summer. If you have a bad thermostat, changing the board won't fix the problem. If you have a bad relay, changing the board won't fix the problem. If replacing the board fixes the problem, it's because the board was bad, not because we're trying to fleece you for all you've got. It has nothing to do with being easy and expensive. Edit: The only wire you need to pull to test whether your issue is the thermostat is the one marked G. If you pull the wire labeled G and the fan keeps running it is not a thermostat issue. If you have power to the furnace and start pulling all of the wires out of your thermostat, touching the copper ends can blow either the transformer or if your system has it a fuse. If it turns out the thermostat is your issue just shut off power to the air handler before you swap it out. Jaweeeblop fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Oct 30, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2011 00:16
|
|
|
Thanks guys. I pulled the G and the drat thing kept running. Time to call in the pros eh?  What kind of cost might I be looking at for a fix? Thank you!
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2011 02:03
|
|
|
I have a water heater I need to strap per California Earthquake Code. The water heater is located outside in a water heater shed. How can I attach the straps to the outside stucco? It's going to be impossible to find a stud. Can I attach it to the shed itself? FCKGW fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Oct 30, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2011 03:24
|
|
|
Somebody somewhere along the line hosed up and used grout where they should have used caulk in my bathroom. Nobody really noticed until now. What do I use to dig out the grout cementing my tile to the bathtub so I can caulk it instead? The grout is breaking up severely is why I am asking.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2011 07:42
|
|
|
I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, and I don't have the search upgrade, but, does anyone know how complex it would be to set up a bicycle powered generator? I've done some googling and haven't found much in the way of satisfying results. I was at my local occupy rally and was thinking of a way to power a generator without burning gas, and thought that this might be a decent way.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2011 11:17
|
|
|
FCKGW posted:I have a water heater I need to strap per California Earthquake Code. What's on the other side of the wall from the stucco? Inside drywall? Get a stud finder and try the outside wall first. If it's vague, try the same area of the wall from inside, if possible. When you locate a couple of studs, use a tape measure to locate them to something you can reference from inside & outside, like the edge of a door or window, then transfer the measurements outside, and drill away. Plastik posted:Somebody somewhere along the line hosed up and used grout where they should have used caulk in my bathroom. Nobody really noticed until now. What do I use to dig out the grout cementing my tile to the bathtub so I can caulk it instead? The grout is breaking up severely is why I am asking. There should be grout between the tub & the bottom course of tile, with a thin layer of caulk over it. This area, though, can be prone to quick wear (cracking) of the grout; I tiled my bath in November 2009 and just re-grouted the same area (tub/wall joint) this summer. My tub, however, had never had ceramic tile before, so some settlement was expected. The vertical corners tend to crack as well. There are hand-held as well as power grout removal tools (Lowes & Home Depot). I used a hand-held grout chaser and it took about 20-minutes to remove it all. I then re-grouted, let it cure up 24-hours, then put a skin coat of silicone caulk on it. The most important thing to remember is to be sure the gap is as clean and dry as possible before re-grouting and caulking. I use alcohol, liberally, to prep the area. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Oct 30, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2011 15:10
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:There should be grout between the tub & the bottom course of tile, with a thin layer of caulk over it. This area, though, can be prone to quick wear (cracking) of the grout; I tiled my bath in November 2009 and just re-grouted the same area (tub/wall joint) this summer. My tub, however, had never had ceramic tile before, so some settlement was expected. The vertical corners tend to crack as well. Okay, so if what little grout is there is breaking up, should I put more grout in before I re-caulk? Ants are definitely coming in through the holes in the grout, which is frustrating.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2011 16:25
|
|
|
Thermostat question: I bought a cheap programmable model to replace my old mercury switch control. The new model (Lux TX500e) supposedly works with any 24v system, but I can't get it to start my oil burner (hot water heating). The water pump runs with the new thermostat installed and turned on, but the fuel pump doesn't start. It's a simple 2-wire system, and when I jump the wires directly, the furnace starts up. What gives? edit: nevermind, there was a little reset switch on the pump motor that I missed. jailbait#3 fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Oct 30, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2011 16:39
|
|
|
Anyone have any suggestions for sealing\resurfacing an old ac condensate pan? The one in my attic is probably 30 years old and is starting to wear thin.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2011 20:07
|
|
|
somnolence posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, and I don't have the search upgrade, but, does anyone know how complex it would be to set up a bicycle powered generator? I've done some googling and haven't found much in the way of satisfying results. I was at my local occupy rally and was thinking of a way to power a generator without burning gas, and thought that this might be a decent way. It's not really that difficult to manufacture but please bear in mind a good athlete can generate half a kilowatt consistently for a moderate period, a normal less-fit person maybe 150 watts, this is before the losses in your system.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2011 22:56
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:It's not really that difficult to manufacture but please bear in mind a good athlete can generate half a kilowatt consistently for a moderate period, a normal less-fit person maybe 150 watts, this is before the losses in your system. So, you're saying this is possible but not very feasible?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2011 01:33
|
|
|
Plastik posted:Okay, so if what little grout is there is breaking up, should I put more grout in before I re-caulk? Ants are definitely coming in through the holes in the grout, which is frustrating. You have to clean out all of the old grout first. Otherwise you'll get crappy adhesion and you'll be doing it again in a couple months.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2011 02:41
|
|
|
somnolence posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, and I don't have the search upgrade, but, does anyone know how complex it would be to set up a bicycle powered generator? I've done some googling and haven't found much in the way of satisfying results. I was at my local occupy rally and was thinking of a way to power a generator without burning gas, and thought that this might be a decent way. Definitely doable. Check out the other ones here http://www.google.com/search?gcx=w&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=occupy+bicycle+generator&qscrl=1
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2011 04:11
|
|
|
somnolence posted:bicycle powered generator? I would think bicycle to alternator to battery, shouldn't be difficult. Alternately you could make a windmill from a bicycle rim if you have steady wind available.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2011 04:34
|
|
|
http://gothamist.com/2011/10/29/video_occupy_wall_street_will_soon.php Looks like it's being done.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2011 04:45
|
|
|
quote:11 pedal-powering generators to fuel the movement, at the total cost of around $8,000. Jeeezus, that's $727 each. $50 craigslist exercise bike $40 rebuilt alternator $100 new car battery $25 link belt $25-50 power inverter So for $250 you could build one. Less if you buy a cheaper battery or scrounge one which really shouldn't be difficult.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2011 05:10
|
|
|
somnolence posted:So, you're saying this is possible but not very feasible? It is both possible & feasible, but work out your power demands first so you don't get disappointed when you try & power a PA stack from something that might struggle to recharge a laptop.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2011 07:11
|
|
|
wormil posted:Jeeezus, that's $727 each.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2011 10:35
|
|
|
grover posted:Or you could buy an 800W gasoline generator from harbor freight for $99 and fuel to run it 100 hours, and still have enough money left over to plant a few saplings as a carbon offset. And probably be greener in the long run, than if you'd tried to bicycle-power a deep cycle lead acid battery, even without the saplings. The issue though, apparently, is that fuel and generators are a "fire hazard," so they can't be used.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2011 14:31
|
|
|
Just tell us what the power demands & environmental/cost/transport constraints are, we'll do the thinking for you.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2011 14:38
|
|
|
I've got an old stemware rack I salvaged from a bar I no longer needed. But they're a few inches shy of what I need for my plans under our cookbook shelf. I am having a bitch of a time finding the slats around here just to make my own rack. I know I can eventually just buy a drat router bit and make my own, but I'm lazy. I can't find any slats online (everyone wants to sell you a wholly assembled rack), is there a good website for pre-cut and shaped wood lengths? I've tried several places that specialize in molding (since it's fairly close to it) but no joy.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2011 14:44
|
|
|
I've got a lamp post sort of thing in my front yard that hasn't worked since we bought our house about a year ago. I finally got around to working on it, and found that they just had standard interior wiring running down the yard underground and to the lamp post. That wire's insulation had been eaten away in about 4 different spots, and using a line tester I found that there was no current beyond one of the breaks, so that's at least part of the problem. One further note, I have about 10 feet of front yard that is level, and the rest is a hillside basically down to the road in front of the house at a pretty steep angle. I'm guessing that I should get new wire to run to the lamp post and run it through some flexible conduit to get down the hill without having to dig absurdly deep. What gauge wire should I be looking for, any particular ratings I need? Any specific type of conduit that would work best? Or, if my whole idea is off, feel free to call me dumb and correct that too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2011 18:52
|
|
|
We'll need to know where you are first, as regulations may require you to bury armored cable 18" deep or some other stipulations.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2011 19:07
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:We'll need to know where you are first, as regulations may require you to bury armored cable 18" deep or some other stipulations. Kentucky if gun laws are any indication I could probably run the wire suspended in the air and use it as a clothesline.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2011 19:16
|
|
|
grover posted:Or you could buy an 800W gasoline generator from harbor freight for $99 ... You'd make a terrible redneck
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2011 20:45
|
|
|
stimpy posted:I've got a lamp post sort of thing in my front yard that hasn't worked since we bought our house about a year ago. I finally got around to working on it, and found that they just had standard interior wiring running down the yard underground and to the lamp post. That wire's insulation had been eaten away in about 4 different spots, and using a line tester I found that there was no current beyond one of the breaks, so that's at least part of the problem. One further note, I have about 10 feet of front yard that is level, and the rest is a hillside basically down to the road in front of the house at a pretty steep angle. I'm guessing that I should get new wire to run to the lamp post and run it through some flexible conduit to get down the hill without having to dig absurdly deep. What gauge wire should I be looking for, any particular ratings I need? Any specific type of conduit that would work best? Or, if my whole idea is off, feel free to call me dumb and correct that too. You will want to use UF cable, it's rated for direct burial and general use underground. Check your local codes before you bury it directly, they may require use of conduit. Even if they don't, if you have any section of that run exposed above ground on the wall outside your house, you'll still need a small section of conduit where that cable is exposed, down to its depth. The minimum depth for UF is 24 inches without any conduit. If your slope is as severe as you say, then look into liquidtight flexible conduit. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Nov 1, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2011 20:56
|
|
|
Sorry if this is terribly easy question.. but where would I find some plans to build a shelf out of slotted angles? And where can I find some footplates? All I can find in Lowes and HD are the angles itself, not anything else. And also, what is the best way to cut through them and/or sheet metal? Can I rip through it with a circular saw? And how may I find the maximum height the slotted angle shelf may safely be without screwing it into a wall stuff? My other question is, can someone direct me a the radial arm saw/ circular saw/ table saw debate? I'd like to know what purpose those three are best at doing, or if I can at all get away with doing most things with one tool. I'm thinking about later on making my own large picture frames (I'm a photographer that prints photographs up to 36" x 48" but I have a 48" x 59" photograph currently) so I would need something kind of accurate? Something like this: http://fourteen30.com/Shows-Detail.cfm?ShowsID=37 Thanks! I'm really green with power tools and materials; never taken a shop class before but I'm really, really interested in building as much as I can. I would love to learn more but don't really know where to start.. I've read the last twenty pages of this thread and all of the power tools thread but I still can't discern much at my level.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2011 21:26
|
|
|
porcellus posted:Sorry if this is terribly easy question.. but where would I find some plans to build a shelf out of slotted angles? And where can I find some footplates? All I can find in Lowes and HD are the angles itself, not anything else. And also, what is the best way to cut through them and/or sheet metal? Can I rip through it with a circular saw? And how may I find the maximum height the slotted angle shelf may safely be without screwing it into a wall stuff? They make premade shelf kits. Many of those use slotted angle steel like you want to. To cut steel you need to use special metal-cutting blades. Even then I wouldn't use a circular saw. You want to be able to use two hands on the saw when cutting something that rigid, with your steel clamped down. As for a saw debate thread, try our own tools thread. And throw a miter saw into your selection choices.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2011 21:40
|
|
|
porcellus posted:My other question is, can someone direct me a the radial arm saw/ circular saw/ table saw debate? There have been two or three big discussions on this in the woodworking thread. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2819334 To summarize, a tablesaw and radial arm saw are basically equivalent although each have their strengths. Radial arm saws are out of fashion because they are perceived as more dangerous (they can walk and kick-back) and the lighter hobbyist models have been replaced with highly accurate and safer sliding compound saws. Circular saws have three strengths, portability, low price, and cutting sheet stock (sheets of plywood, etc). All 3 will rip and crosscut. You could do your ripping with a circular saw and edge guide or jig then use a miter saw for crosscutting. For very precise miter cuts, you'll want a compound miter saw although you can achieve those on a tablesaw with some practice and home-built jigs. I own a tablesaw and 2 miter saws and love them. [edited for clarity] wormil fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Nov 2, 2011 |
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2011 04:48
|
|
|
Can you explain the difference between ripping and crosscutting? I have an interest in making small boxes because I'm tired of never ever having the right container for anything and good with my hands, but don't know where to start or what to start with.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2011 17:57
|
|
|
I think ripping is going with the grain, crosscutting is going against the grain. e: I could be wrong
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2011 18:53
|
|
|
Cosmik Debris posted:I think ripping is going with the grain, crosscutting is going against the grain. You're correct.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2011 19:13
|
|
|
In a nutshell, ripping is cutting a board lengthwise (with the grain), and crosscutting is cutting a board across the width (perpendicular to the grain). Out of the three big ones mentioned, my only saw for years has been a RAS. I see where Wormil is coming from, but I wouldn't call and RAS and a table saw "basically equivalent". My opinion comes from using a RAS as my main saw for years, cutting a billion shims on a table saw, and very little experience with a CMS. This is the way I see it: A good table saw is the most versatile of the three, but is also the most expensive and largest. You can do damned near anything with a table saw if you make the right jigs. Not that making jigs is bad - that's one of the most fun and rewarding parts of woodworking for me. The CMS is great for dead accurate crosscutting work without using jigs including - wait for it - compound miters. For basic rectangular boxes you don't need compound miters. The only time I can think of that you would need the "compound" aspect in box making is if you are building boxes with tapered sides. Until reading wormils post, I wasn't even aware that you could rip with a CMS, so I have no input at all about the ripping capabilities. The RAS is closer to a CMS than a table saw. The biggest drawback I see (from my personal experience with my early 70s Black & Decker / Dewalt not top of the line at all saw) is in the setup. It takes a ton of fidgiting and adjusting to get everything square and parallel, but once you get it dialed in, it is very accurate. Kickback is certainly is an issue when ripping with a RAS - I'd say much more so than with a table saw. I've had a higher frequency of kickback problems with a RAS than a table saw, but table saws kickback with a lot more power. With either saw, it is most conveneint to stand right in the path of the kickback while you are feeding the lumber. Don't stand there - ever. You have to put safety first and never get complacent. Blade safety is another thing - particularly with ripping. With a table saw, you only raise up enough of the blade to make the cut you need. On a RAS the whole damned blade is right there spinning away and you have to work around it when doing rips. It didn't earn the nickname "radical harm saw" for nothing. With either saw, think about where that blade is going to be during the entire cut and if it does kick back or grab, where are your fingers, the wood, and the blade going to go? Determine the answers to that before every cut and you'll be about as safe as you can be. You can make 1000 cuts and never have a problem. You get lazy and comfortable and that next cut fires a hunk of wood into your mouth shattering all of your teeth and continues out the back of your neck. For making boxes, I'd recommend a CMS or RAS unless you have a lot of room and some money to spend, in that case, go with a decent table saw - not some shitpile $80 Craftsman benchtop. If you want one of those, I'll give it to you. I refuse to use it and have tried to give it away twice before and it came back both times. Between the CMS and the RAS, I'll admit my bias towards the RAS. If a CMS can rip, then I'll begrudgingly suggest you go that route. If not, get a RAS and a good square rule.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2011 19:33
|
|
|
SkunkDuster posted:Until reading wormils post, I wasn't even aware that you could rip with a CMS, Poor editing on my part, I meant to bold ts/ras/circular saw but it was late and I was sleepy and I somehow hosed that up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2011 21:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:55 |
|
|
Cakefool posted:Just tell us what the power demands & environmental/cost/transport constraints are, we'll do the thinking for you. Just looking to power a couple of heaters. Thanks teh jhey for the link to that video.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2011 05:44
|
|