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Who else in here has a 60's/70's Volvo? 122, 1800 or 140? I'm ready to start parting out my 122 drivetrain. I've already given dibs to whoever I know and most have said they don't need anything, so next dibs is to goons. After that it's Volvo forums and craigslist. Speak up.
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Sep 8, 2014 19:00
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| # ? Jun 13, 2024 03:39 |
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Armchair Calvinist posted:No matter what I do, I can't get scotty's camber plates to work. Have you talked to him? I don't think anyone here understands the product well enough to troubleshoot it. Where is the washer supposed to be in your diagram?
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Sep 8, 2014 22:57
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I've already spent money on two alignments and the plates and I'm running out of options. 
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I sent him a PM with that exact message, just waiting on a response right now. The washer is supposed to go between the top strut nut and the bearing, but there's no way for it to fit with the needle bearing installed between the golden spacer and the top spring hat. On top of that, Josh (sdturbo) was saying that on the Kaplhenke plates, there's a spacer you install between the threaded part of the strut and the ball joint to prevent strut movement in the ball joint. I'm hoping I get an answer soon because I don't feel it's safe to drive with my camber plates rattling my strut nuts off.  I fixed most of the vacuum leaks though. Now I just need a new intake manifold gasket and I'm good to go!
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Sep 9, 2014 00:17
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Can you further explain the problem? You're concerned that the strut tube will come loose? Can you grind the cone spacer down to make room for a lock washer? Also, how about some locktight on the nut? A lot of the diy spherical mounts I have seen use turned down mag lugs to make up the difference between strut tube threads and bearing through hole. On that 89 wagon, stock 80s Volvo's aren't worth very much. There is a chance that has wiring harness issues (due to defective harnesses), it also has the crappy small rod, low friction engine with mid mounted thrust bearing, so it probably rattles more than a diesel. If it has a 5 speed (not a 4 speed + electric OD), those transmissions are notoriously weak.
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Sep 9, 2014 03:06
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89 should have the revised wiring harness.
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Sep 9, 2014 04:55
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mafoose posted:Can you further explain the problem? I'm gonna try to grind down the spacer to allow for a lock washer. Basically, there's no way for the nut to secure itself to the ball joint and there's slop between the ball joint hole and the strut threading. We'll see how this goes!
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Sep 9, 2014 09:22
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Ohhhh. That isn't going to fix it. Yoshifab is wrong about the kaplenke stuff, it doesn't come with a spacer. Like I said, one of the common old tricks is to use the shank type mag wheel lug nut. Another thing that might work is a drill bushing, since you can pretty much get them in almost every ID and OD needed. With enough force, the tube will still move in the bearing, so you NEED to get rid of the gap. What size is the threaded part of the strut? Any ideas on the ID of the bearing? If you look at big name camber plate manufacturers like Ground Control, they ask what cartridges you'll be running so they can send the correct spacer.
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Sep 9, 2014 17:11
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Hmm. I believe the threads are 16-17mm or around there; I'll measure later today. Should I see about getting the lug nuts machined and their tops cut off so I can adjust the Konis? I wish I had a gearhead buddy close to me who could help unfuck everything. 
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Sep 9, 2014 17:38
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Find out the thread pitch of the inserts and the ID of the camber plate bearing. I'll see if I can find you a drill bushing, and I'll ask a friend with a manual lathe about turning down so mag lugs.
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Sep 10, 2014 00:58
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Got it! Here's what the Koni rep gave me, followed by the measurements of the provided spacers (and why they didn't work): Koni posted:The thread pitch and size is m16x1.5, the rod step under the threads measures 17.82mm, the rod itself measures 21.75mm.   And the supplied plates, sans spacer:  (gold spacer is the steel-gold spacer I am referring to) The supplied spacer fits smoothly into the ball joint, which makes me believe that the mid-shaft of the strut is supposed to be flush with the ball joint as well. This is of course impossible, given that the supplied golden spacer (from previous post's pic) covers the entirety of the 17.82mm midshaft, leaving only the smaller diameter threads in the ball joint hole. Online sources are saying an m16x1.5 threading has a diameter of ~15.732mm-15.968mm, so hypothetically the supplied spacer should work, which makes me inclined to believe that the spacer was machined too narrow. edit: Also, they don't seem to make needle roller thrust bearings in 18mm-- 19m is closest. Double edit: I believe this is the way a setup should look.   Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Sep 10, 2014 |
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Sep 10, 2014 19:07
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Got an oil leak on the 99 v70 xc. Passenger side, seems to be dripping down about six inches towards the back of the car from the oil filter housing, from above. Front camshaft seals? What else could it be? Looks like it dropped about a third of a quart overnight. Pretty big leak. EDIT: I did the PCV system about 20k ago. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Sep 11, 2014 |
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Sep 11, 2014 01:55
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Armchair Calvinist posted:Here's my setup: On here you show the spacer. Did it come with 2 spacers? Did you ever measure the ID of the bearing? Sadly the strut cartridge is too big to use the mag lug trick. I can make you a replacement cone (golden spacer) that has the right ID for your struts and a lip for you to center and use a common thrust bearing, and then you use a drill bushing to remove the slop between threads and spherical bearing. If you want to move this conversation to email so I can respond faster, it's my username at gmail.
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Sep 11, 2014 04:21
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EvellSnoats posted:Got an oil leak on the 99 v70 xc. Passenger side, seems to be dripping down about six inches towards the back of the car from the oil filter housing, from above. It's probably a cam seal. The '99+ cars don't have much else on that side that can leak.
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Sep 11, 2014 04:24
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mafoose posted:On here you show the spacer. Did it come with 2 spacers? Did you ever measure the ID of the bearing? The ID of the bearing is pretty close to 17.93mm, which is the OD of the spacer provided for the top of the strut (the donut looking MSpaint I provided). I'd believe the bearing ID is 18mm given the spacer's measurement. Sending you a Gchat invite 
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Sep 11, 2014 06:43
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CornHolio posted:So I have a '97 850 that I'm fixing up to drive in the winter. I've had it for about five and a half years, and when I got it I sent the ABS/TRAC module to some guy in California to fix. Bumping this. I used Victor Rocha in California last time, and he was about $140. I've heard that there are cheaper and/or better people these days. Anybody know who's good offhand?
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Sep 12, 2014 16:17
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Matt at Midwest ABS is good and a bit cheaper-I think he charged me $80 when the module in my XC needed to be rebuilt.
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Sep 12, 2014 17:50
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CornHolio posted:Bumping this. I used Victor Rocha in California last time, and he was about $140. I've heard that there are cheaper and/or better people these days. Anybody know who's good offhand? I used this guy on my 98 ABS...word of warning though, make sure you get package tracking and keep all receipts/correspondence. He lost my core return and wouldn't refund the cost when I couldn't provide a tracking.
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Sep 13, 2014 23:07
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Is there a good site/post with info on potential problems/what to look at when checking out an 850/V70 turbo? I know about the 99/00 ETM issue, but what else is there? Also: how does a properly working V70 with drive-by-wire compare in throttle feel to a mechanical one? Assuming both cars are in good condition, is there any reason to get a 99 over a 98?
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Sep 15, 2014 22:51
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atomicthumbs posted:Is there a good site/post with info on potential problems/what to look at when checking out an 850/V70 turbo? I know about the 99/00 ETM issue, but what else is there? The forums on Volvospeed and Swedespeed both have decent information, and Matthew's Volvo Site is probably the best for maintenance writeups. In my experience with my '98 XC, the areas most likely to need attention in a '98-'00 model are the front suspension (and the engine mounts), the PCV system, and the timing belt. A lot of the rubber hoses underhood are probably shot or close to it at this age-that includes the vacuum hoses as well as the hoses in the cooling system. Fortunately, the only coolant hose that's a total pain to replace is the one underneath the turbo. The rest are pretty accessible. If the AC doesn't work it may be caused by a leaky evaporator core. If it's not that (pray that it's not that  ) the clutch gap on the compressor has probably gotten too wide due to wear. Fortunately, there are a couple easy ways to fix it. Otherwise, they usually just need basic stuff like the ignition parts, air filters, etc. replaced. As long as you buy good parts most of the stuff I mentioned will only have to be addressed once if it hasn't been already. The DBW in the '99+ cars feels pretty natural and if you didn't know it wasn't a cable throttle I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference. In fact, they feel faster off the line than the earlier 850/70 models since the ETM has a larger diameter throttle body-I think it's 3" as opposed to 2.5" in the older cars. If I had a choice, I'd take a working '99+ car over a '98. They're not that much more complicated but they're way more refined.
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Sep 15, 2014 23:46
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zundfolge posted:The forums on Volvospeed and Swedespeed both have decent information, and Matthew's Volvo Site is probably the best for maintenance writeups. that all's good to know. in terms of the PCV system, is the examination basically "ask if it's been done, or check a hose for crud"? also is there a good place for 98-00 S/V70 year by year changes? because nobody seems to talk about them in exact terms. it's all like generic "engine improvements" and so on. edit: those delaminating door panels tho
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Sep 16, 2014 01:59
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well, speak of the devil and he pops up on Craigslist.   what do y'all think
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Sep 16, 2014 21:28
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"Work on Brakes" could mean anything between "Needs new pads & Rotors" to "needs new ABS control module lol $$$$$$"
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Sep 17, 2014 01:58
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atomicthumbs posted:that all's good to know. IIRC if the PCV system is really bad there will be smoke/air pressure coming out of the dipstick tube while running after it has been driven a little bit. If you go take a test drive that would be an easy thing to check for.
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Sep 17, 2014 02:28
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Anyone want a 55k mile V6 780? Ain't perfect but it's nice and my dad is selling it for a guy who wants it to go to an enthusiast. Portland OR area.   Rest of pics here: http://lloydd.angrywaffles.net/Bertone/
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Sep 18, 2014 06:40
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LloydDobler posted:Anyone want a 55k mile V6 780? yes and also nooooo
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Sep 18, 2014 07:59
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MRC48B posted:"Work on Brakes" could mean anything between "Needs new pads & Rotors" to "needs new ABS control module lol $$$$$$" turns out it was "needs new pads and rotors", but the car has 277,000 miles and the "oil leak" is actually "it burns oil".
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Sep 19, 2014 01:59
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atomicthumbs posted:turns out it was "needs new pads and rotors", but the car has 277,000 miles and the "oil leak" is actually "it burns oil". Run away.
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Sep 19, 2014 02:54
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Anybody know the torque specs for the hard lines to the junction block and hard lines into the braided/rubber brake hoses? I don't wanna strip them but I don't want them to leak either. Volvo Megathread: I got 99 problems and they're all my car
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Sep 20, 2014 05:52
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$800 V70 update! I have a list of things to fix on the car, the first being the biggest problem the car has: the transmission. Recap: Shifts and drives fine when cold. Very hard shifts and flare going from 2nd to 3rd gear when hot. I decided to try a flush first to see if that would help things out, but the fluid was so brown and gritty I didn't have high hopes. Afterward, it threw a code P0748 just as soon as I got out of the driveway and went into limp mode. Drained and filled another time with no better results. Instead of trying to DIY with the solenoids or flushing out the valve body on the bench, I said screw it and ordered a rebuilt valve body from Sunbelt Valve Bodies I spent about 3 hours installing it and holy crap what a difference! All the magic voodoo poo poo you can chant to get these cars to shift right will nickel and dime you to death when you can just bite the bullet and have a proper fix. Now I just need to sort out the front suspension - and by sort out, I mean replace EVERYTHING. Struts are shot, upper strut mounts are shot, lower control arms are shot, motor mounts are shot, pretty sure I've got growling bearings. I'm halfway tempted to try and find a V70 that's been rearended in a junkyard to get the parts off of. This poo poo's gonna be expensive new!
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Sep 22, 2014 21:32
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I am going to look at a '93 940 today that ran when parked 2-3 years ago. No other issues reported from PO, she seems like a nice lady, and I know the mechanic she was taking it to. She just started riding her bike everywhere. Price? Fave-hunnert-  I hope it cranks right up with a jump, but if not I'm having it towed to the house, as long as it's otherwise in good shape. It will make a good pair with my 240 beater, I hope. EDIT: 246xxx miles, it turned over about 7 times and fired right up. I love Volvos 
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Sep 23, 2014 |
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Sep 23, 2014 14:24
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Beach Bum posted:EDIT: 246xxx miles, it turned over about 7 times and fired right up. I love Volvos As I was reading this it reminded me of when my 83 240 turned over twice and fired on the day I sold it after 2 years of sitting 
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Sep 23, 2014 20:41
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skylineboy08 posted:As I was reading this it reminded me of when my 83 240 turned over twice and fired on the day I sold it after 2 years of sitting after I got power to the fuel pump, my parents' 84 240 (sat for ten years or more on sometimes wet ground, with a leaky sunroof) started up immediately. I love volvos.
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Sep 23, 2014 22:16
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My 850 sat for ~six months under ten feet of snow completely hidden, and started right up when I put the battery back in.
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Sep 24, 2014 15:03
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 It's happening! Not quite ready to start the 122 build thread but my buddy has successfully welded two oil pans for longitudinal 5 cylinder mounting. They only warped .030" - .040" so I'm considering trying to just bolt it down, but the machining is only one evening worth of work so in the end I'll probably cave in and do it. What's one more evening of work when I have three in it already? Plus even if it works for me, I'd like to sell the spare to help fund the project, and nobody is going to buy a warped pan. What's funny is the welding itself only took about 20 minutes total, but all the time preheating and then cooling and checking and leak testing and reheating ended up taking us about 5 hours for 2 pans.
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Sep 25, 2014 06:33
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I'm getting the other half of my tires put on my 940 tomorrow. I've got a coupon for an alignment, but I'm intending to put new radius arm bushings on it soon. Can I get it aligned without worrying about that, or should I wait? Also, is a four-wheel alignment worth it? What exactly is there in these things' rear suspensions to align? LloydDobler posted:longitudinal 5 cylinder
atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Sep 25, 2014 |
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Sep 25, 2014 07:33
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If it's solid axle, the 4 wheel is just to check that the car isn't bent and/or the bushings are good. There is nothing to adjust in the rear. You want to check the thrust angle, as that is the angle at which the centerline of your car is when driving straight down the road. Again, bushings and/or frame bending.
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Sep 25, 2014 17:59
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That's quite a bit of warp! Did he clamp it down while welding? Does it need such a big fillet? A pipe dream of mine is a T5 in either the 242, or possibly a Z. How much are you looking to get for one?
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Sep 25, 2014 18:34
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mafoose posted:That's quite a bit of warp! Over a 20 inch long part? I don't consider that a lot of warp, guys who don't preheat it get over a quarter inch of warp, even with a fixture. We had it clamped to a bearing girdle and also preheated it in an oven, but it probably wasn't enough. This is warped so little that I can machine it without having to try and straighten it first, the bolt flange is around .200 thick. The fillet is so big because that part of the pan is sloped downward, so when I cut 91mm out of it, there is now a big step in it. Also on his first pass he didn't get 100% seal, we leak tested it and got a drip, so he ran it again. Basically other guys who have welded these tell horror stories of leaks and warp rendering their parts un-useable. We're miles ahead of that already. I've got a good ten hours of labor in both pans and I'm not even close to finished, so I'm going to want a few hundred bucks I think.
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Sep 25, 2014 20:44
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My monitor is poo poo so that dark bit doesn't look so great, but is that basically a batwing-style setup similar to the C5 LS1 pan now?
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Sep 25, 2014 21:19
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| # ? Jun 13, 2024 03:39 |
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After a quick GIS, yes. Only the wings are at the very back to clear the crossmember. It actually matches the profile of my crossmember beautifully, the only thing I have to deal with is if it needs to be located farther forward I have to cut notches in the pan to clear my lower control arm bolts. 
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Sep 25, 2014 21:44
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