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I've started to notice a few electrical related problems. My dashboard clock runs fast. It's currently running about 15 minutes fast, I set it on time a few months ago. Also, when turning on my rear window defrost the other day, my radio shut off for a second then immediately turned back on like I had just started the car. I've also had an ongoing issue with my fan speed dropping occasionally, which was originally diagnosed as a problem with the climate control unit. I replaced the unit a few months ago, and it worked fine at the time, but the problem is coming back. I can hear an audible "click" when it goes off for half a second and then fires back up. I'm wondering where I could start looking to diagnose this? Fuses going? I saw that the climate control unit also has a resistor that can be replaced?
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Oct 18, 2014 21:19
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Will the driver's side front fender on an '88 240 unbolt and come off, or are there more steps? and: What's the best way to find a new fender in the right color?
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Oct 23, 2014 05:00
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I can't remember which but some years have a tack weld at the front corner under the turn signal.
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Oct 23, 2014 05:50
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Pretty sure facelift (+86) need a spot weld drilled out.
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Oct 23, 2014 06:13
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I've got an '88 and '89 sitting in my driveway, both have the fenders welded to the lower valance. It looks a like more than just a simple spot-weld, but I could be wrong. Bring a grinder with a cut-off wheel.
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Oct 23, 2014 11:51
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atomicthumbs posted:Will the driver's side front fender on an '88 240 unbolt and come off, or are there more steps? a) There is a weld on the pre-facelift volvos as well right where the fender connects to the long metal bit that holds the headlights. It's kind of a pain to get to because there's a sandwich of three different metal bits right there and no way to get a drill in there. I tried to cut through it with a dremel tool and the weld was like LOL. I ended up using a hacksaw blade and a lot of cusses. b) Why the hell do you think you need one the right color? I ended up buying a car with a shot wiring harness from a local volvo shop for $300. I pulled off everything I thought I would need and sold it to the junkyerd for $350. You would probably spend the same amount on a fender as you would a whole car.  
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Oct 23, 2014 16:34
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Having fenders be different colours sends two messages to other people in traffic: I care enough about this car to fix it, but it has hosed up people (probably just like you) in the past.
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Oct 23, 2014 16:36
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There's a small spot weld but it should be easy to remove. I hit a deer and had to replace the core support and roll the fender out. I got a core support from a junk yard, but they decided to just cut the front half of the car off and stick it in the truck rather than bothering to remove the core support. I was almost able to remove the spot weld with a screw driver, it seemed painted together more than anything. I wouldn't expect this to work, but it should be pretty trivial to remove with a dremel and a bit of encouragement. It's the pinched together area at the bottom corner of the fender near the edge of the left bumper. This is a 1989, so post facelift. 
ultrabay2000 fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Oct 23, 2014 |
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Oct 23, 2014 17:38
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Lotta front end wrecked Volvos in here! 240 front fender is cake. I pulled a fender, hood, and core support off of what I think was a 740 and it all bolted up just fine. I posted about my deer strike repair last year http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3292714&userid=159866#post414755958 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3292714&userid=159866#post414794641 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3292714&userid=159866#post414868345 Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 11:10 on Oct 25, 2014 |
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Oct 25, 2014 11:01
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Beach Bum posted:Lotta front end wrecked Volvos in here! 240 front fender is cake. I pulled a fender, hood, and core support off of what I think was a 740 and it all bolted up just fine. I posted about my deer strike repair last year That junkyard car is another 240. The 740 is a different car with essentially the same powertrain as the 240- but the 940 is just a refresh of the 740. Now that I think about it, you do want a car after 1986. If you get one from before 1986 you have to pull off the entire front end to get it to fit correctly- the fenders and hood and headlights are all different sizes and they don't fit with post 1986 parts.
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Oct 25, 2014 14:46
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ultrabay2000 posted:That junkyard car is another 240. The 740 is a different car with essentially the same powertrain as the 240- but the 940 is just a refresh of the 740. Well it was shaped the same and the parts fit so it worked! Perhaps it was a 244DL or something, that was a long time ago.
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Oct 25, 2014 17:30
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Leroy Diplowski posted:b) Why the hell do you think you need one the right color? I ended up buying a car with a shot wiring harness from a local volvo shop for $300. I pulled off everything I thought I would need and sold it to the junkyerd for $350. You would probably spend the same amount on a fender as you would a whole car. because my car was almost pristine until someone backed into it and ran while my dad was driving it, and he'd feel bad if we replaced the fender with one that's not the same shade of dignified metallic gold.  edit: if I find a pre-86 model can I just unbolt the whole front for those sweet quad sealed beams atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Oct 25, 2014 |
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Oct 25, 2014 19:03
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My fiancee's 97 850 GLT that she daily drives has suddenly started leaking oil into the coolant reservoir. Here I thought it was just radiator hoses causing coolant loss. E: help, even just a rough price quote for sanity checking would own. Also if there are any parts that should be replaced while it's completely apart then please let me know. skylineboy08 fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Oct 26, 2014 |
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Oct 26, 2014 00:08
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skylineboy08 posted:My fiancee's 97 850 GLT that she daily drives has suddenly started leaking oil into the coolant reservoir. We'd need more detail, is it turbo? Are you planning just a head job? Also A Volvo specific forum would get you really precise advice. Try Swedespeed, Volvospeed is more tuner oriented and turbobricks is more rear wheel drive oriented.
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Oct 26, 2014 05:49
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atomicthumbs posted:because my car was almost pristine until someone backed into it and ran while my dad was driving it, and he'd feel bad if we replaced the fender with one that's not the same shade of dignified metallic gold. Any luck finding the perp? Check out ultrabays post two above yours for info on the 86 swap (on phone sorry)
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Oct 26, 2014 07:54
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LloydDobler posted:We'd need more detail, is it turbo? Are you planning just a head job? Also A Volvo specific forum would get you really precise advice. Try Swedespeed, Volvospeed is more tuner oriented and turbobricks is more rear wheel drive oriented. Really LD I'm just spinning about it because I don't have the time or space to do the head gasket so it has to go to the shop. It's a GLT which is the light pressure turbo and I'm down to spend up to about 3 grand while it's in there to do all of the things that fit in the labor for the head gasket job. I'm thinking like cam seals, timing belt, water pump kind of stuff.
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Oct 26, 2014 14:50
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Anyone know anything about xc90s? My 16 year old has been driving an 01 Audi A6 that was a project I saved and (for the most part) have sorted out. But every time the check engine light comes on or the slightest noise appears (this week it was a bad cv), she freaks out, which starts a cycle of events with her mother and everyone bitching at me. I like the Audi and could keep it, selling my 99 xc70 which I DD. My daughter likes the xc90 cause she sits up higher and learned to drive in Mom's Suburban. We are looking at the 2.5 cylinder turbo 5's, as I understand the engines and transmissions are practically the same as my cross country. My mechanic tells me all other combos are worse, with trans that suck). I can use a lot of what I have learned working on my swede. I might even forgo selling mine, I have been such a nut trying to get it back to stage 0 and give it to the next family member that needs a ride. Daughter doesn't like the xc70 because she prefers the ride height size, and I am sure the newness of the 90. There are several clean 03 to 06 xc90s within driving distance with 110 t0 170k on them. High mileage does not bother me if maintained (currently have 220k on mine). So far I looked at one lady owned ride with 170k on it, but her father owned a (non-specialty) meatball garage so the basics appear to be all there and the miles are almost 100% highway. Any traps for the unwary I need to look for? And no sense in turning this into a lecture about 16 year olds and first cars. Everyone on the BMW thread freaked when I gave my then 16 year old son a 98 540i and he still drives it, loves and wrenches on it and hasn't had one accident or moving violation in 3 years. If anything his sister is more responsible and careful, although I expect a fender bender or two out of them just being 16.
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Oct 26, 2014 15:29
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EvellSnoats posted:Anyone know anything about xc90s? My 16 year old has been driving an 01 Audi A6 that was a project I saved and (for the most part) have sorted out. But every time the check engine light comes on or the slightest noise appears (this week it was a bad cv), she freaks out, which starts a cycle of events with her mother and everyone bitching at me. Get the T5 AWD and you're pretty much golden. I love working on xc-90's, and aside from any poo poo you would catch in the xc-70 its a stupidly solid vehicle. I've noticed they tend to eat up balljoints and sway bar endlinks quicker than their smaller siblings, but besides that its the same stuff. I've seen a few kicking 300k+... poo poo, I know of a 400k V8 xc. Going by your post I'm going to assume you're pretty wrench savvy. If you can work on an xc-70 you can work on an xc-90. As for a first car, the 90 is perfect. Its one of the safest things on the road and depending on your climate the awd will save you a lot of stress this winter. My first car was a rwd v6 f150 with 16in car tires on it (because my dad thought it would save on gas money) in a very snowy and hilly area of the country. Every stop sign, red light, hill, and turn I dreaded because at any point I could lose the rear end end for, what seemed to my 16 year old mind, like nothing.
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Oct 26, 2014 16:37
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Sviatoslav posted:I've seen a few kicking 300k+... poo poo, I know of a 400k V8 xc. That is good to know. Snow isn't a real problem in North Mississippi and neither is rust. The car I am looking at has spent its whole life down here which should make it easier to work on. My 70xc was the first northern car I ever bought, the Audi the second. I don't think I will ever buy another, rusty parts just suck to work on. I have amassed quite the collection of specialty tools for the T5. I redid my entire suspension when I first bought the v70xc, although it was a pain in the rear end I think if I were faced with having to do a little on the 90 I would be set. I now have enough "spare" cars in my fleet that I can let a project sit till the next weekend and not burn out. It seems if you take your time on Volvos you eventually figure a better way to do most anything.
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Oct 26, 2014 20:27
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Of note is that all the XC90s are absolute pigs on gas, as in sub 20s mpg. If that kind of thing bothers you.
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Oct 27, 2014 02:21
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xpost:atomicthumbs posted:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/4726887470.html
atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Oct 27, 2014 |
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Oct 27, 2014 08:04
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That's good info to pick up about the XC90s. I've always thought they were pretty awesome even if the gas mileage is not so great. It turns out I should relax and think before I sperg out about bad head gaskets because after some research and further investigation I'm 90% certain that the oil cooler has gone bad in the radiator, causing the oil to pump into the coolant circuit. I ordered a radiator and new hoses all around for about 200$ and now I get to learn the fine art of flushing a cooling system of oil. At least the water pump is going to be well lubricated 
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Oct 27, 2014 15:39
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skylineboy08 posted:That's good info to pick up about the XC90s. I've always thought they were pretty awesome even if the gas mileage is not so great. Is there any risk of that mixing back into the oil? If there is, your issues are not going to stop at flushing the cooling system....
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Oct 27, 2014 16:44
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CommieGIR posted:Is there any risk of that mixing back into the oil? Not usually, as the oil system runs at a much higher pressure than the cooling system. Now if it's the automatic tranny that's leaking into the coolant... That does more commonly have the problem of going the other way.
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Oct 27, 2014 20:47
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LloydDobler posted:Not usually, as the oil system runs at a much higher pressure than the cooling system. I'd still test the oil for coolant. That would make me paranoid as hell.
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Oct 27, 2014 20:57
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the lady with the questionable R, when I asked about what was wrong with the turbo, said "Don't know specifically; its consuming oil and smoking. Not unusual according to our mechanic." if the price was a fair bit lower it'd get me thinking about what Volvos have a bigger turbo than an 850 R and still have "VOLVO" on the casting. (california woo)
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Oct 27, 2014 22:43
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There are plenty of Volvo-branded Mitsubishi turbos out there, including 16Ts, 18Ts, and 19Ts. The 850R uses a 15G; it wouldn't be hard to find another one even if all you wanted to do was bring it back to stock condition. Even rebuilding one doesn't seem that hard. Either way, that "R" is significantly overpriced. It's missing the R-specific bumper and wheels, which makes me question whether it's an R at all (someone could have swapped the interior into an 850 Turbo and claimed as much.) It's also not anywhere near good enough to demand the cited KBB price in the first place, let alone in its present condition. I'd knock another $1k off their price as a starting point.
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Oct 27, 2014 23:41
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CommieGIR posted:I'd still test the oil for coolant. That would make me paranoid as hell. It's not that big a deal unless they drove on it a lot. Since the oil will float on the coolant (I think), a single oil change will get 99% of the coolant out of the engine, and the rest will boil out through the PCV. atomicthumbs posted:the lady with the questionable R, when I asked about what was wrong with the turbo, said "Don't know specifically; its consuming oil and smoking. Not unusual according to our mechanic." The biggest turbo recommended for an un-modified motor (stock rods and pistons etc) would be a 19T like I just put on my convertible (go check my thread for pics), and it's 100% visually identical to the stock turbo except for the little tag on it that will say 19T as opposed to 15G. You'd also have to upgrade injectors, but that's really it. Also if you just put the stock heat shields back on they can't see the drat turbo anyway. The best part is that you can just undo the coolant lines, oil lines, and vacuum lines, and it just comes off of your hot side. On the other hand you technically should do a manifold upgrade with it as well. Mine holds 20 psi and is just silly quick. Agreed that it's way overpriced. Tell them if they can't unload it you'll take it for $1000. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Oct 27, 2014 |
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Oct 27, 2014 23:47
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Does the 19T provide enough turbo lag? because that's the most fun part of turbos
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Oct 28, 2014 01:51
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Well, it makes a lot of boost down low but doesn't stop there. 4k is when it really wakes up. I'm getting together with my gearhead welding buddy Wednesday night, we've both been talking about getting some autumn "drive through piles of leaves" video, I think we'll find some time to show you what's up with the 19t.
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Oct 28, 2014 07:07
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LloydDobler posted:It's not that big a deal unless they drove on it a lot. Since the oil will float on the coolant (I think), a single oil change will get 99% of the coolant out of the engine, and the rest will boil out through the PCV. Is the oil cooler going bad like this a relatively common problem?
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Oct 28, 2014 12:59
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Does the XC70 come with headboppers?
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Oct 28, 2014 16:17
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skylineboy08 posted:Is the oil cooler going bad like this a relatively common problem? I think it's one of those "If you're lucky enough to not have your retarded plastic tanks crack on you in 5 years, then you're treated to this" kind of failures. They did redesign it in 1999 or 2000. A lot of guys upgrade to that, all it takes is swapping the oil pan.
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Oct 28, 2014 19:15
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 V60 T5 AWD. It's just so drat well-made! 
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Nov 1, 2014 06:47
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Sviatoslav posted:Get the T5 AWD and you're pretty much golden. I love working on xc-90's, and aside from any poo poo you would catch in the xc-70 its a stupidly solid vehicle. I've noticed they tend to eat up balljoints and sway bar endlinks quicker than their smaller siblings, but besides that its the same stuff. I've seen a few kicking 300k+... poo poo, I know of a 400k V8 xc. Going by your post I'm going to assume you're pretty wrench savvy. If you can work on an xc-70 you can work on an xc-90. I hexed the idea because online research seemed to indicate they ate transmissions....
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Nov 1, 2014 23:01
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The V8 and I6 do, the I-5 turbo makes almost as much torque as the 6, but has the (finally) bulletproof transmission behind it.
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Nov 3, 2014 08:11
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Does anybody know how to adjust the differential speed sensor shim? My speedometer likes to stick at certain speeds and is bouncy below 25mph.
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Nov 3, 2014 10:34
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The timing belt broke on my '96 960 when I was accelerating up to 50 mph. About how screwed am I as far as bent valves go? Also, what else could potentially be messed up?
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Nov 4, 2014 02:21
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allfinereallfit posted:The timing belt broke on my '96 960 when I was accelerating up to 50 mph. About how screwed am I as far as bent valves go? Also, what else could potentially be messed up? Assume the worst until you pull the head. Assume the following will need to be replaced: Valves, Head, Camshaft, Pistons, Connecting Rods, and all associated bearings. At least 
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Nov 4, 2014 02:37
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White blocks are interference engines. Pull the head, as long as a valve didn't break and destroy a piston, slap a junkyard head on it.
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Nov 4, 2014 03:27
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