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cool kids inc.
May 27, 2005

I swallowed a bug

JohnnyRnR posted:


I do. It's at https://www.brookheart.com The website is primarily a catalog for our more expensive pieces, but we do considerable amounts of special order jewelry and custom sourcing for our customers.

I don't want to break your heart, but the "diamonds from remains" companies have been challenged by many gemological labs. The companies aren't open on their technology and some naysayers say that what they promise is impossible. Until we see better information I don't feel comfortable recommending the process.

Is that a....a 14 k gold cock ring or am I misinterpreting "private I Love Yous"?

No I mean really, what.

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JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja

cool kids inc. posted:

Is that a....a 14 k gold cock ring or am I misinterpreting "private I Love Yous"?

No I mean really, what.

All of the engagement piercings are body piercings so you can put them wherever you like. The ring you're talking about has an inside diameter of .5 inches... so it's not what you think it is.

Ben Davis
Apr 17, 2003

I'm as clumsy as I am beautiful
My engagement ring is platinum. I was sold on the metal because I was tough with my hands at the time (retail) and the jeweler said that if we went with white gold, any scratches would actually be scratched OFF, whereas platinum meant it would just be pushed around and we wouldn't be missing anything. I was really clear about my line of work. Definitely, nothing was mentioned about not being able to wear the ring every day.

Everything was fine for a year and a half until the wedding, when it was completely bent out of shape--the picture is below. During Greek dancing, I remember someone squeezing my hand so hard it hurt--I was guessing it was bent then, but who knows.

So we brought it in and it was fixed. I wore it for 2 days and it bent again. The insurance didn't believe that I hadn't done anything to it the second time, but eventually an agreement was set that they'd make the band thicker... So now it's not as delicate as it once was. I began to only wear it on Sundays and for special events... and now it's a year later, and it's definitely begun to bend again. My husband's pissed bc he spent all this money on a ring and hates to hear that there's anything wrong with it. At this point, I'm so sick of not being able to wear my ring that I'd be ok with getting it remade in white gold. Do you have any advice as far as talking points when I go in?

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JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
That looks to be a poor design. The head is extremely heavy in relation to the rest of the ring, and the shank looks to be very thin and rounded in the places where it should be square. From the way it's bent it seems that the shank just completely gave way.

I would have the ring made again, but have the design modified so the head tapers into the shank. The width of the top should taper on either a 25 or 50% scale until it becomes integrated into the thinner part of the ring. You wouldn't notice this as the changes would be on the side of your finger.

Another suspicion is that the ring was just cast poorly. If I had to guess.. the metal has a high level of porosity (air bubbles trapped inside the platinum). Platinum is very strong, and while this design doesn't seem to be ideal it still shouldn't have been possible for it to bend like this.

That said.... do you wear your ring when you're doing rough things? If you're working construction every day then the ring will undoubtedly get destroyed in the normal course of wear.

Ben Davis
Apr 17, 2003

I'm as clumsy as I am beautiful
Thanks for the advice! It is nice hearing that there might be some real reason for it--when my husband called the insurance company, he actually got asked repeatedly if I had stepped on it!

I did wear it daily for the first year and a half, until the wedding--nothing like construction, but I pushed full shopping carts, moved cardboard boxes, that sort of thing. Since the fix, I've only worn it on fancy occasions, though, and the worst I do with it on is open a door. They definitely did make the bottom bit of the shank much thicker than it used to be--maybe double the width--but I'll take it back in and see what they say.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
It isn't the bottom I would be concerned about - It's the sides of the shank where the strength should be. Think of it as an architectural design like an archway. It needs strong walls.

Arnold of Soissons
Mar 4, 2011

by XyloJW
Honestly if I bought a ring that was supposed to be platinum and it was deformed from opening doors and pushing shopping carts I'd take it to a different jeweler and ask them what metal they think it is.

I mean 24k gold is pretty damned soft, but platinum?

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
The SA forums have been great for my business. Everyone has been really nice, and I've gotten several referrals from the forums. So I wanted to give something back.

I have a pretty serious inventory of loose colored gems, and instead of letting everything sit in a vault for another year I thought it would be fun to put it online. This is only a little of what I own, and I'll be updating it as I have the time if there is interest. To keep things separate from my main business I made a second webstore just for SA. I'll let it run for a few months and close it down when everything is gone.

I've priced everything at the prices that jewelers pay from wholesalers - And in some cases I've priced things below the replacement cost. I just want to clean out the inventory that I don't need today and give everyone a hookup. This isn't a profit center for me.

I don't have any desire to be the loose gem supplier to the world so I would appreciate it if you would keep the password under your hats. Friends and family only, please.

http://gemdirect.myshopify.com/
Password: goonpuppies

Coca Koala
Nov 28, 2005

ongoing nowhere
College Slice
I'm interested in getting three of the tourmalines you've got on that site, actually. I'm thinking about the bicolour, the rose, and one of the greens, and then having them set side-by-side into a necklace so that the colour goes from pink to green.

Which green one would you recommend for such an endeavor?

Edit: Never mind, I read the descriptions a bit more closely and went with the deep green. Ordering them now!

Edit again: Since you know the stones already, can I discuss my idea for the pendant with you to make sure I'm on the right track for something that would look good and is possible?

Coca Koala fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Jun 18, 2011

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Sure thing. Shoot me an email at sa-goons@brookheart.com, or you can use the "Click to Chat" feature on the bottom of the Gem Direct webstore. I'll be popping in and out all day.

WAFFLEHOUND
Apr 26, 2007
Johnny, please don't take the site down anytime soon, I'm out of the country until the end of August but I'll probably want to take advantage of it as soon as I can. Also, since you told me about them I've started taking the cheaper GIA courses and oh my god they're so loving simple.

Also, how would you suggest breaking into working at a jewelry store? I have far more interest in high-end jewelry but frankly there's nothing like that around where I live.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Take it from someone who started on the high end side: DON'T. Start working with a local mom and pop, maybe even in a mall store. The mall stores don't have the reputation that they used to, but it would be good to see what a big retail operation looks like.

You can always move to a different tier later, but at the level at which I work now mistakes can be horribly expensive. One deal on a collection of sapphires goes bad and suddenly you're bankrupt. These things are inherently expensive and it's easy to lose money while you're learning the ropes.

Mao Mix
May 11, 2010

by Ion Helmet
Is there any jewelry with gems that looks good on men other than huge gaudy things?

Alterian
Jan 28, 2003

Star sapphires are pretty manly

prankquean
Dec 29, 2008

Mao Mix posted:

Is there any jewelry with gems that looks good on men other than huge gaudy things?

I think cufflinks with gems can be pretty manly. Some of them can get on the huge gaudy side, but I think there are more tasteful ones.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
This has surely been asked before but are there any recommended jewelry insurance companies out there, specifically outside of adding a rider to your renter's insurance plan? Is Jeweler's Mutual any good?

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Jeweler's Mutual is the #1 company in that space. In case of loss they prefer to replace the jewelry with identical goods, and have some competent jewelers on their approved vendor list.

Bees to Please
Oct 19, 2004

I'm shopping for an engagement ring and my girlfriend has provided a style (white gold, 3 round cut diamonds, not much glitz on the band) and pictures of a few rings she likes, her favorite being this one:

, from http://www.ritani.com/diamond_engagement_rings/item/570/in_collection/5

What kind of mounting is that and is it difficult to do? I'm a big fan of the architectural, flowy aspect of this compared to the usual square-ish sort of design you see. I went to a local independent jewelry store with good yelp reviews and they showed me several rings that looked nice, but the metalwork on them was simpler and a tad boring. Should I ask to see more examples of custom work they have done?

I plan to look at some more stores in the area soon. Is it considered normal/OK to buy the stones themselves at one store and have another build the ring if I really like the work they do? Would I be expected pay a premium for such an arrangement?

Thanks for all the info, it's been really helpful.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Glad to help out.

That's a "three stone cathedral" mounting. A very classic style, and one that should be almost everywhere. Ritani seems to have made it their own with a few extra accent diamonds on the side, but the underlying lines are classic.

Most jewelers won't turn you away if you show up with your own stones. Every jeweler likes to make the full sale, but we'll all work with whatever we're given. You wouldn't generally pay a premium for bringing your own stones.

When you're examining metalwork the important part is to see how the final fit and finish sits. Are the lines smooth and clean? Are the sharp edges slightly rounded for comfort? Are all visible parts of the piece polished smooth, and do they feel glassy to my fingertips? Those are the things I look for.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Just got a huge shipment of fancy quartz varietals in and thought I'd post a picture.

These gems are all the same material, but they've been subjected to different treatments. These treatments are all permanent and stable, and the FTC doesn't generally require them to be disclosed to end consumer. Most likely if you're buying a fancy colored Quartz from a retailer it will be treated as described below.



Clockwise from the top:

The green stone is Prasiolite. Some call it "Green Amethyst" or "Greened Quartz." It's a natural quartz that's irradiated to bring out the minty green color. This color does exist in nature, but it's almost impossible to tell what is natural and what is irradiated.

Then we have Amethyst. All Amethyst is varying shades of purple, but sometimes heat is added to deepen the color. Likely these are heated since the color is so vivid.

Next is Lemon Quartz. This will generally be a colorless or brown quartz that has been irradiated, and the color changes to a Vivid Canary Yellow.

Finally we have a concave faceted Citrine. This is purple Amethyst that has been heated at a very high temperature. The internal structure realigns and the stone starts to reflect this vivid orangish-yellow color.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
I'm getting insurance for an engagement ring from Jeweler's Mutual and they need an appraisal. Can I just scan the receipt and GIA evaluation and upload that to them? Or do I need an independent appraisal?

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Those two pieces of info should be enough for them. I'd give them a call.

WAFFLEHOUND
Apr 26, 2007
Man, so many irradiated stones. Why ruin perfectly good good rocks with radiation? :(

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Because they get prettier when you irradiate or heat them.

WAFFLEHOUND
Apr 26, 2007
That's subjective though. To me the way the crystal formed is the most beautiful part, it almost seems like a waste to take things in their natural state and blast them with heat or radiation to make them different colours. Except tanzanite because dayum.

Cat Plant
Feb 11, 2007

There used to be green cats but they turned into plants because they slept too much.
With the fancy quartz - what is the price range like for those stones?

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Very reasonable. For nicely cut pieces like these in stronger colors prices would be ~$10/caratt for 3-7 carat stones. They're a nice gem to keep in stock for making pendants and rings that don't break the bank.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

JohnnyRnR posted:

Those two pieces of info should be enough for them. I'd give them a call.
Yep, receipt and GIA eval were fine for an appraisal. Thanks for the help!

Hired_Sellout
Aug 16, 2010
I just wanted to say thanks to Johnny for setting up this gem deal. You've been a font of cool info here for a while now and this really tops it.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
My pleasure. I'm really glad that everyone has enjoyed the private webstore. I'll be updating it from time to time with new inventory, but I just haven't had the time to post things.

I just finished a custom pendant for a Goon that picked up a few pieces from the private webstore. It wound up being fantastic and proves you don't have to break the bank to make beautiful custom jewelry. If he gives permission I'll post a photo.

jomiel
Feb 19, 2008

nya
The webstore looks awesome. If I would prefer that you set them for me, would I buy the items and then set up a custom order? If I pick up something like amethysts to make a pair of earrings or a cocktail ring, is it possible to set them in a cheaper material like silver? (vs. a tanzanite white gold ring, which also would be nice!)

sorry, if this is too much sales info I'd be happy to email, just thought perhaps other might have the same question.

jomiel fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Jul 27, 2011

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
That's the easiest way (and ensures they're taken out of inventory immediately).

We definitely can set things in silver & gold for you. I've been meaning to put a selection of ready-to-set designs on the website but just haven't had time.

If you want to chat about designs easiest way is to email me at sa-goons@brookheart.com or to use the live chat box on the bottom right of the website. I'm in and out all day but I'm usually in front of a computer if it says live chat available.

avan
Apr 26, 2010
Can you tell me more about alexandrite?
My mother bought her and and my sister "matching" alexandrite rings when we were up in Alaska I guess. They paid a poo poo ton of money for them and they are "cool" or whatever, but I just would like to know if they were cheated in any way or if they got what they paid for. I can probably ask one of them if I can take a picture of it if it would help, though I dont know that it would make much of a difference for you.

Can you just tell me more about the stone and why it is so expensive? Are there ways to tell if it is fake or something - or to verify it is real.
They received a certificate of authenticity from some jewelry rating agency thing or something. Sorry my wording is so poor I am just incredibly apathetic towards jewelry because I think its silly.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Alexandrite is so expensive because it is so rare. It's a mineral with a very rare gemological phenomenon - It vividly changes color in different lighting.

You can send the stone to a gem lab who would be able to identify it for you. Who issued the COA that came with the ring?

As to whether they were cheated; there's no way to answer your question from the information provided. The finest Alexandrites can sell for tens of thousands of dollars. Even the synthetic versions are not cheap.

Coca Koala
Nov 28, 2005

ongoing nowhere
College Slice

JohnnyRnR posted:

I just finished a custom pendant for a Goon that picked up a few pieces from the private webstore. It wound up being fantastic and proves you don't have to break the bank to make beautiful custom jewelry. If he gives permission I'll post a photo.

Permission granted! Post away, I don't have any photos of the piece myself.

For anybody who's on the fence, I can tell you that working with Johnny was about as smooth of an experience as getting some custom jewelery could possibly be. I was never left feeling like my input was being ignored or that we moved forward in the creation process before I was completely happy with what was being presented. The price was totally reasonable (475 for the pendant, three stones at 50 dollars each, and something like 50 for the chain), and the quality of the final piece was just tremendous. Much better than things I've gotten from Blue Nile or Ross Simons. I'm definitely going to be in touch with Johnny again when I need to buy some impressive jewelry.

Special mention has to go to the packing job, which was excellent at both holding the jewelry in place and also at presenting it in the best possible way when you open it. It honestly looked like something I might keep on my desk when I first saw the box, and it blew my mind when I remembered that it opened and the art inside was something that my girlfriend would get to wear.

Secondary special mention has to go to the chain that came with the pendant, which was without question worth the cost. It's adjustable, which I thought was just going to be a neat gimmick until I pointed it out to my girlfriend and she got all excited because she "can wear it with any shirt or dress she wants and change the length so that the pendant gets shown off perfectly", which I probably would have realized if I thought about it for more than a second but oh well. The chain is fantastic, don't shy away from it.

And finally, since I haven't had a chance to let Johnny know how the pendant was received: She loved it and proceeded to show it off to everybody in her family, which actually included members of the extended family who had never met me before. It was a fantastic first impression to make, and everybody was super impressed that I had such nice taste in jewelry. Plus, the fact that it was a custom piece and therefore unique made it even more special and meaningful. Overall the entire thing was a complete success and I would happily do it again. I look forward to working with you in the future.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Thank you very much. It's very kind of you to say.

Here's a picture of the pendant. Custom designed work like this takes us 3-4 weeks from start to finish. And like Coca Koala said it's much higher quality than the mass produced pieces you'll find at a mass market seller.

Brennanite
Feb 14, 2009

JohnnyRnR posted:

Thank you very much. It's very kind of you to say.

Here's a picture of the pendant. Custom designed work like this takes us 3-4 weeks from start to finish. And like Coca Koala said it's much higher quality than the mass produced pieces you'll find at a mass market seller.



That's beautiful. Are the stones just different colors or quartz?

Coca Koala
Nov 28, 2005

ongoing nowhere
College Slice

Brennanite posted:

That's beautiful. Are the stones just different colors or quartz?

Thank you! The stones are all tourmaline, sourced from Johnny's private store.

Hobson
Oct 19, 2009

This is not the way I wish to be remembered.
That's gorgeous. The colors look so nice together.

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SlaveToTheGrinds
Apr 3, 2010
Johnny, my husband and I are wanting to get new wedding bands, I found a ring a a chain that I was in love with but the diamonds in it were extremely small and losing them was a concern. The ring was rose gold, a wider width flat band with two lines of tiny diamonds and a circle of them in the middle of the band. We are wanting to do something similar but with just one stone in the middle instead of the many. I've been looking at rings online and have not found much in rose gold that doesn't look tacky as hell or filigree. Can you recommend a direction to look or should we just look into getting something made. I really love the wide flat band and I've found nothing close. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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