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BoostCreep posted:I am a HUGE F'N MORON. My battery was dead this morning, and because of stupid reasons that I don't want to get into, I accidentally reversed the battery cables when jumping my 2001 XJ. So now the engine will turn over and catch, but dies right away. If I start it and floor the gas pedal I can keep it running for a second or two before it dies again. I checked all the fuses that I could find and they look good, but the Haynes manual that I have apparently has nothing in it about the location of the car's computer and I didn't have time to go tearing everything apart to check it. (I have since located it on the driver side of the engine bay next to the air box.) I have to assume the ECU or crank position sensor, or both are blown. Or something in the ignition. I've got a couple of '99 XJs. One is a daily driver, the other is a parts bitch until I get the time to make it nice. When I need to jump it off to move it on occasion, it will start, run for a few seconds, then die. The computer needs to relearn how to idle. Start it up and keep it running by manually working the throttle. Try and get it to run as close to 750RPM without revving it or letting it stall. Within 10-15 seconds, it will know how to idle again. Once done, you don't have to do that again until you swap batteries or need to jump it off.
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Apr 29, 2011 21:16
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I know this is the Jeep thread for cool Jeeps and not soccer mom compact SUV Jeeps but I have the chance to pick up a 2006 Jeep Liberty, 3.7L V6 with 100K for $6K and I am thinking of hopping on it for my wife as we are about to pop out a baby and a Ford Ranger isn't an acceptable babbymobile. I really only know Ford/Volvo stuff, any words of warning about the 3.7L or the auto trans (42RLE?). Anything else to look out for?
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May 2, 2011 20:32
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Arzakon posted:I know this is the Jeep thread for cool Jeeps and not soccer mom compact SUV Jeeps but I have the chance to pick up a 2006 Jeep Liberty, 3.7L V6 with 100K for $6K and I am thinking of hopping on it for my wife as we are about to pop out a baby and a Ford Ranger isn't an acceptable babbymobile. Have an independent mechanic do a compression test, and then also a pressure test of the cooling system, if both pass, its a good deal. The transmission doesn't have any glaring faults, other than its a derivative of a 4wd transmission they just left the front drive bits out. I've heard its finicky about fluids, not just any Dexron will do is what I'm told. The normal sniff and taste should tell you if its been fried.
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May 2, 2011 20:50
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Team140 posted:I've got a couple of '99 XJs. One is a daily driver, the other is a parts bitch until I get the time to make it nice. When I need to jump it off to move it on occasion, it will start, run for a few seconds, then die. You were spot on. I installed the new battery and basically went through a couple phases of turning the key to ON and back off after 20 seconds to let the ECU run some diagnostic cycles. It fired right up after that. Thank you! The only collateral damage so far is that my passenger headlight fuse is blowing out and the rear driver side speaker stopped working. Those issues I can deal with though. One funny thing is that my FM radio on my head unit stopped working 6 months ago and now it works again. I'll take that. The other good thing is that this got me motivated to work on the Jeep again, so I finally cut and folded my rear fenders. I have a pair of Napier Precision V2 fender flares for the rear to install this weekend to match the ones I have on the front. I think it's pretty good clearance for only a 3" lift. 
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May 3, 2011 07:58
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So 4WheelParts bought Rubicon Express... http://www.team4wheelparts.com/transamerican-auto-parts-purchases-jeep-suspension-manufacturer-rubicon-express/
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May 3, 2011 20:23
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 My Wrangler is out of the shop today. I got that rear shock mount fixed for $75. Not bad at all!
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May 3, 2011 22:00
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So I'm going to look at an almost completed project tomorrow. Rockwell 2.5T axles new rebuilt Divorced military 6x6 transfer case Hino cab new rebuilt Turbo diesel 3.x litre Onboard air Michelin 47" Military tires Needs some finishing touches such as bumpers fabricated, brakes plumbed and the rearmost diff needs new pinion bearings/crush sleeves. Not sure if I want to put a flat deck with a crane on it, or a camper or what. I wouldn't find hooking up a hydraulic pump to the pto and running a couple high strength winches on the front and back. Edit: Also needs an exo cage. The roofline is about 9', so it's not as terribly high as you would think.
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May 4, 2011 03:23
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jonathan posted:So I'm going to look at an almost completed project tomorrow. That is loving awesome. You should do it like an LMTV  flat deck with removable sides and top.
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May 4, 2011 13:33
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Sponge! posted:Have an independent mechanic do a compression test, and then also a pressure test of the cooling system, if both pass, its a good deal. Yep.. If you bring it into someone to have the transmission fluid and filter changed (this is one of the first things you should do) they need to know to use Mopar ATF+4 fluid or the transmission will eat itself. That stands for you checking and adding fluid yourself. I personally think the Liberty is a bit small for a family vehicle - the interior is a bit cramped. But otherwise, I like it a whole lot more than I used to. It's still a "true" 4x4 vehicle in comparison to some of Jeep's other offerings, in that it is RWD and has real part time/low range 4WD. You probably don't care too much about this but I'm just mentioning it in case you do want to have some fun on some backtrails eventually..
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May 4, 2011 16:11
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ornery owl posted:Ugh, got a check engine light today that keeps coming right back after resetting it. The code I pulled from it was P0715 which is something called a "Input/Turbine Shaft Speed Sensor". I maybe sort of know where it is located and what it is/does but I can't seem to find that part on either Advance Auto's or Auto Zone's website. Would it be called something else? Since the 32RH doesn't have an input speed sensor, I'll assume you have a 42RLE or equivalent. Here's the excerpt from the FSM:  In my experience magnetic pickup sensors can often be cleaned as they accumulate debris that intereferes with operation. Before you buy a replacement, remove the sensor and clean the pickup head, then reinstall and test.
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May 4, 2011 16:27
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incredibull posted:Since the 32RH doesn't have an input speed sensor, I'll assume you have a 42RLE or equivalent. Here's the excerpt from the FSM: It's an AW4 tranny on a 1999 XJ. Tried cleaning it and it's connector earlier but the CEL was still instantly on even after leaving the battery disconnected for a bit. So I replaced the sensor with a new one and I still have the CEL. Is it true that transmission codes don't normally clear out unless you use a code reader to reset them? I don't remember where I read that, so I am not really sure if it is true. It doesn't sound like it would be. It is starting to sound more plausible though since the transmission itself is shifting perfectly. Every thing I read about this error code said it should be shifting weird if the sensor was truly bad. The TCU I guess would also be working fine if it is properly shifting? I might just invest in a code reader, I am sick of driving to Advance Auto and asking them to do it. I already had one guy working there tell me it is illegal to clear the codes out and they're not allowed to do it. What a dummy.
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May 5, 2011 04:18
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Well I figured out why the car was trying to wobble and sway at 30 mph... This is why we can't have nice things. Edit: Nevermind. I found the parts. 80 bucks? Blah. Second edit: Mad flex tri link suspension yo. Scrubed fucked around with this message at 17:06 on May 6, 2011 |
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May 6, 2011 14:58
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On some parts websites, I'm seeing quite a few parts that will fit an 2000 XJ (according to the part description), but doesn't mention the 2001 XJ. It doesn't say that it WON'T fit the 2001, just doesn't mention it. Is it safe to assume that parts for the 2000 and 2001 are all interchangeable?
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May 6, 2011 17:42
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Roneth posted:On some parts websites, I'm seeing quite a few parts that will fit an 2000 XJ (according to the part description), but doesn't mention the 2001 XJ. It doesn't say that it WON'T fit the 2001, just doesn't mention it. Is it safe to assume that parts for the 2000 and 2001 are all interchangeable? Yes they are.
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May 6, 2011 21:44
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 Today was a pleasant day for driving doorless.
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May 6, 2011 23:55
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jonathan posted:So I'm going to look at an almost completed project tomorrow. So I bought it. Well, it's mine now, verbally, I'll be going out on the weekend to put down a deposit. Needs a bit of work before I bring it home, There was a gasket issue so the exhaust manifold was removed, machined and needs to be bolted back up along with the turbo. And the frame modification is mock-up only. We're going to finish that off with input from a commercial vehicle inspector to make sure it is road worthy and will pass a roadside inspection. I'll be starting a build thread for it in a bit, once I have my own pictures to take.
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May 7, 2011 03:41
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ornery owl posted:It's an AW4 tranny on a 1999 XJ. Tried cleaning it and it's connector earlier but the CEL was still instantly on even after leaving the battery disconnected for a bit. So I replaced the sensor with a new one and I still have the CEL. The AW4 has its own control module that communicates with the PCM via CANbus, including transmission trouble codes, but I believe that the AW4 controller was integrated with the PCM around '98.. I don't have in-depth knowledge of the XJ or the FSM to verify this.
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May 7, 2011 18:30
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Got my jeep all gutted and ready for a new clutch. Hung up on the loving inverted torx bolts on the top of the transmission  . Clutch will be in today for sure though.
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May 7, 2011 20:40
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I'm planning on ripping all the carpet out of my TJ and replace it with spray on bed-liner, I assume I'm not the only person to have done this sort of thing. Any tips?
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May 8, 2011 06:05
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slipfish posted:I'm planning on ripping all the carpet out of my TJ and replace it with spray on bed-liner, I assume I'm not the only person to have done this sort of thing. Any tips? Wax or rainex the inside of any glass, so you can wipe the greasy fog off easier for the first two weeks...
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May 8, 2011 06:15
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Faerunner posted:My XJ's gas needle goes full... still full.... HALF TANK!.... empty. And at empty it has about 6 gallons left. Quoting myself from last year. It stopped doing this once it started getting driven regularly. Now it's just a hair inaccurate (It shows too far empty, 3 gallons left on E. Not that I'm complaining versus what it did previous). Should I be worried that a thing that didn't work right fixed itself or just smile and be content?
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May 8, 2011 06:18
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Faerunner posted:Quoting myself from last year. It stopped doing this once it started getting driven regularly. Now it's just a hair inaccurate (It shows too far empty, 3 gallons left on E. Not that I'm complaining versus what it did previous). Smile and be content. My blinker was on the fritz but fixed itself somehow last week. I must have made a sacrifice to the Chrysler gods and pleased them.
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May 8, 2011 06:26
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Faerunner posted:Fun new Jeep thing: It's an automatic, and when in reverse you have to apply slight pressure forward on the shifter for the back-up lights to stay on. Problem two fixed. In his words, "I went to put the wrench on the nut to take it off, expecting to have to lean into it, so I was completely unprepared when it turned as I was getting the wrench on it." Turns out it wasn't even finger tight. Tightened it up and not only do the reverse lights work (Though they hardly light anything up, maybe it's time to look into some obnoxious LEDs  ) it starts in a fraction of the time it took before. Not sure if it's related, but it can't have hurt.Now once his next paycheck comes in I'm going to nag him to get the O2 sensors it needs. All 2522536244 of them. (Okay, it's only four, but still, ouch. Buying a Jeep driven in from California was great for having a completely rust-free vehicle, but the extra emissions stuff is bleh.) And then it's time for an inspection... only 2.5 years late! Then maybe he can work on the Saab. Sigh.
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May 8, 2011 10:52
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incredibull posted:The AW4 has its own control module that communicates with the PCM via CANbus, including transmission trouble codes, but I believe that the AW4 controller was integrated with the PCM around '98.. I don't have in-depth knowledge of the XJ or the FSM to verify this. I had them turn the light off at Advance Auto and it hasn't come back on. I probably wasted my money on that new sensor, but whatever. It is what it was. Now my current problem is that it sometimes won't start unless I mash on the gas while cranking the ignition. Then it just turns right off unless I keep on the gas. Eventually it will keep running on its own after forcing it to. I just wish I could go for a few weeks without having to fix or replace something on it. EDIT: and now today it starts and runs fine. I wonder if the idle is just wonky from leaving the battery disconnected a few days ago? owls or something fucked around with this message at 05:56 on May 9, 2011 |
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May 8, 2011 14:35
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slipfish posted:I'm planning on ripping all the carpet out of my TJ and replace it with spray on bed-liner, I assume I'm not the only person to have done this sort of thing. Any tips? Rest well knowing that you are doing the right thing- carpeting never did and doesn't belong in a wrangler. Be sure to check for rust spots under the carpet and make sure you take appropriate action (sand that poo poo down and rust restore it). I found it helped to remove just about EVERYTHING from the interior (seats, center console etc)before starting. As a personal preference, I removed all the drain plugs and use rubber floor mats to reduce wear in the front under my feet. I used the cheap rustoleum liner in a can found at walmart and have had good results everywhere except the floor pan where I rest my left foot while driving as that place receives more wear. with a bedliner interior and the drain plugs out, cleaning the inside is reduced to taking your wrangler to a stall-type car wash and using the high pressure rinse inside and out. EightBit posted:Hung up on the loving inverted torx bolts on the top of the transmission The title of this thread should be "does your pneumatic tool set come with torx bits?" Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 14:47 on May 8, 2011 |
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May 8, 2011 14:40
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Clutch is in. Apparently the head gasket started going in the past few days. The side of the engine under the intake/exhaust manifolds has little trails of oil and coolant running down the side. No cross contamination apparently, just losing all its fluids right there.
EightBit fucked around with this message at 00:14 on May 9, 2011 |
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May 9, 2011 00:11
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Does anyone want a good condition Haynes repair manual for a Jeep Wrangler? I'll sell it for a few bucks + shipping. Hit me up with a PM if you want it. Figure it is better to pass it on to someone who can use it instead of it collecting dust on my shelf. I don't have a Wrangler any more and have been trying to use the book with my Cherokee. Some times the information is useful other times it is completely useless. I am just going to buy a new/used one for Cherokees.
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May 9, 2011 23:48
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Well, looks like the 0331 curse has caught up to me. Got the head off, cracked right between the #3 & #4 cylinders. Is $400 a decent price to get a local machine shop to build a remanufactured head, or is that too much, or should I be looking for a totally new head? Pics coming later when I get home from work. EightBit fucked around with this message at 21:06 on May 10, 2011 |
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May 10, 2011 20:48
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slipfish posted:I'm planning on ripping all the carpet out of my TJ and replace it with spray on bed-liner, I assume I'm not the only person to have done this sort of thing. Any tips? http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/monstaliner-full-install-write-up-901675/
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May 11, 2011 21:07
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So I'm at Sam's Club today getting my new tires put on and lo and behold the rear passenger wheel is missing 2 lugs and one of the lugs is apparently WELDED into the loving lugwell. Another unanticipated repair...
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May 11, 2011 22:13
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In February, I blew up my rear D35. However, I've never done much more than my own fluid changes so I didn't know exactly where the new grinding sounds were coming from. I suspected it was in the rear drivetrain as the sound was a very loud, dense metallic grinding beneath the TJ rhythmic with the engine rpm and I wasn't getting power in 2HI. I know these parts can be expensive and heavy, and I don't have tools at school so I parked the jeep in my garage and walked to classes everyday. School's over and I need to move the jeep outta town. I've so far saved about a grand for this job, which is too little I know. I brought it to a mechanic last week hoping I was wrong about the potential cost. Confirming my worst fears, he said 'the whole thing is blown' and that I ruined the 'spider gears and everything'. So he quoted me $1700 for the job, which includes a whole new axle, but I forgot to ask which type, D44 or D35. I'm guessing D35 because of the $1700 price. He told me it was not safe or worth it to rebuild the old one. I don't have the tools or the knowledge to custom fit another axle, so I think I'm stuck saving up more money to buy a new complete D44 axle assembly and bolt that in my dad's garage because he has the tools and lift... in this case, also going to need to buy a 4.10 ring and pinion for the front and get that professionally installed. The garage is 200 miles away, so I will be pulling the rear driveshaft and driving in 4Hi the whole way. Does anybody have any advice on this subject?
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May 12, 2011 04:24
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ethanol posted:In February, I blew up my rear D35. However, I've never done much more than my own fluid changes so I didn't know exactly where the new grinding sounds were coming from. Check craigslist, I bet you can find a used D44 or D35 no problem for $200-400 (maybe even cheaper if it's just a D35). I'm sure there are little gotchas to deal with depending on the model year Jeep and axle but nothing that's a big dealbreaker I assume.
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May 12, 2011 07:46
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Do first gen Grand Cherokees -OR- 1996 and older XJs use the same shifter assembly as 1997+ XJ models? I broke mine when removing the center console. The automatic transmission shifter assembly, not the transfer case shifter. The answer is no. The shifter bezel is specific to the 1997+ XJ. Maybe the Wrangler too. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 01:40 on May 16, 2011 |
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May 12, 2011 20:56
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Somethings hosed on my 99 cherokee. It's been losing coolant, I assumed it was leaking out the radiator somewhere. Turns out it might be the head gasket? My coolant also looks rusty as hell, and I flushed it a few months ago to get my heater core working. I go to start it up today after letting it sit for a while. It wont start right away. Give it gas and it will start, sound like poo poo, and die if you let off the gas. That and smoke comes out from the manifold area. Oil pressure gauge looked good, volt gauge was low when it was running. Took the key out and left it in the driveway. I've got my Subaru running so the Jeeps a backup vehicle, but when your backup vehicle is broken.... Where should I start? Pull the heads off? compression/leakdown? Pull the plugs and spin it? Light it on fire? I'll be able to fix it since it isn't seized and can do my own work, I just don't know where to start.
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May 14, 2011 17:37
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Faerunner posted:Problem two fixed. In his words, "I went to put the wrench on the nut to take it off, expecting to have to lean into it, so I was completely unprepared when it turned as I was getting the wrench on it." Reverse lights are out again. Too wet out to care, Jeep can sit until it's dry.
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May 15, 2011 15:11
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ethanol posted:
Spending $1700, or any money really, to put a Dana 35 back in is tragic. Where are you? Maybe there is a local goon who can help you put in a Ford 8.8 or something. Or keep your eyes open on Jeep forums for a used 44 with matching gears. That would swap right in, and shouldn't take more than an afternoon.
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May 15, 2011 19:03
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Slow is Fast posted:Somethings hosed on my 99 cherokee when it was running. Heads? Does that mean it's a GC V8? If it is the 4.0 you should check to see what head casting you have. You have telltale symptoms of a cracked head which is common on the 99+ Cherokees. Look between the 3 and 4 cylinders right near the valve cover on the driver side for your casting number.
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May 16, 2011 09:06
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I think only 2000 Cherokee and up have the 0331 heads, but it couldn't hurt to check. 99 Grand Cherokees do have the 0331 though. I'd start by draining both the oil and coolant in to pans and check if they're mixing. Rusty coolant can be normal to a point, but if it is oily/milky then yeah you have gasket problems. If coolant is hitting your manifold area and steaming/smoking it could just be a leaking freeze plug. On my 99 Cherokee I had to replace and fix two of them so far and it wasn't because of freezing. They just started to rot away it seemed. owls or something fucked around with this message at 16:09 on May 16, 2011 |
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May 16, 2011 09:30
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BoostCreep posted:Heads? Does that mean it's a GC V8? If it is the 4.0 you should check to see what head casting you have. You have telltale symptoms of a cracked head which is common on the 99+ Cherokees. Look between the 3 and 4 cylinders right near the valve cover on the driver side for your casting number. Whoop, it's a 99 XJ with the 4.0. I got a 99 because I thought it was 2000+ with the bad heads, but I'll check just to make sure. ornery owl posted:I think only 2000 Cherokee and up have the 0331 heads, but it couldn't hurt to check. 99 Grand Cherokees do have the 0331 though. I just did an oil change. The oil came out fine looking. I'll definitely check the freeze plugs though. Our 95 blew out a plug. So far I've got check the head casting code and inspect the freeze plugs. That's a start. I'll probably pull and inspect the plugs because hell why not, it's easy. Just need some free time. Thanks guys!
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May 16, 2011 20:30
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All 99's should have #0630 heads; the number peeks out from the driver's side of the valve cover just above the #4 intake port.
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May 16, 2011 20:41
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