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Crazedscot posted:Okay, I have a device that requires 12v 1.25A. Without going into to much detail why, i'm wondering if I could power this off an Firewire/IEEE 1394 port, which if I understand it correctly supplies 12v 1.5A. Would it be a simple matter of cutting open a Firewire cable and soldering the correct size adaptor plug to the correct cables or is there more to it than that? You'd want to cut that current down also. You might think pounds no big deal, omit a quarter amp. But that's also a 20% jump from what it was designed for. Maybe it'll just run a little warmer than normal, maybe you'll fry stuff. Hard to say.
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Dec 10, 2011 08:49
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stubblyhead posted:You'd want to cut that current down also. You might think pounds no big deal, omit a quarter amp. But that's also a 20% jump from what it was designed for. Maybe it'll just run a little warmer than normal, maybe you'll fry stuff. Hard to say. So to shave a quarter of an amp off, i'm looking at soldering on a what, 48 ohm resistor?
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Dec 10, 2011 11:23
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Decorating question, specifically insulating lining paper. I put up insulating liner, then lining paper over that, unfortunately that was my first go at papering anything, so I followed the instructions & pasted the wall. The result is as below: This whole piece in the corner was held up by maybe 3" in the top & the paper holding it to the next piece.   Basically huge swathes of it have peeled off the wall, some when it was painted, some just after the lining paper went over. Can I save this & have it look ok or should I pull it down, chalk it up as a learning exercise? Monies are tight otherwise I'd just pull it down & start again. Also, I know now to paste both wall & paper, insulating liner goes on horizontally, paper liner goes on vertically, as I said this was my first go. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 12:45 on Dec 10, 2011 |
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Dec 10, 2011 12:43
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Crazedscot posted:Okay, I have a device that requires 12v 1.25A. Without going into to much detail why, i'm wondering if I could power this off an Firewire/IEEE 1394 port, which if I understand it correctly supplies 12v 1.5A. Would it be a simple matter of cutting open a Firewire cable and soldering the correct size adaptor plug to the correct cables or is there more to it than that? I think what that means is that the output is rated for up to 1.5 Amps. You can draw less than that (and you should, really, you don't want to get too close to the limit) all day with no problems. Its not current controlled; if it were it would fry the output when you unplug it. Unless you know something is current controlled, you should assume that its voltage controlled and the listed current rating is the upper limit on what the device can produce. But 1.5 Amps seems like a lot of current to put through a firewire cable to me. The actual conductors are pretty small. I'd be careful, anyway.
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Dec 10, 2011 18:01
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How hard is it to install a garage door opener? I want to get my parents one for Christmas but their garage is a mess so I dunno about having someone else install it. Their house was built 6 years ago and has the wiring in place already. Also what's security like on those things lately? Any brands that can't be easily sniffed or hacked?
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Dec 10, 2011 21:55
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If they already have a roll-up door, the hardest part is hanging the motor and track. You need to have a mount that can handle the motor unit, which means attaching angle iron to framing lumber (NOT drywall), and attach the front end of the track above the door, also to framing. Once the unit is mounted it' s fairly straightforward to attach the track block to the door.
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Dec 11, 2011 01:06
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longbay facewheat posted:Can anyone answer what I hope is a simple question about this lamp? You're right, snap-on bulb clips don't really work for CFLs, they're either too big or too bumpy. Personally, I would take that lamp apart and put a proper lamp harp on it. Unplug it, take the socket apart, unscrew the socket bottom from the lamp, put on the harp base on the stem and put the socket bottom back. Try this site for parts. They have a great selection and you might even be able to find an exact replacement for the part you were talking about. If you're going for a small desktop lamp but your bulb is too big, I know Sylvania makes some super small CFLs that might fit your bill. They come in the candelabra base too.
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Dec 11, 2011 01:43
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kid sinister posted:You're right, snap-on bulb clips don't really work for CFLs, they're either too big or too bumpy. Personally, I would take that lamp apart and put a proper lamp harp on it. Unplug it, take the socket apart, unscrew the socket bottom from the lamp, put on the harp base on the stem and put the socket bottom back. Thank you for these recommendations. I suppose I could take apart the lamp and rebuild it with a harp, but I have a gut feeling that there's a big pile of lampshades out there on the internet or in a store that will actually fit onto the white cylinder without any modification. Toward that end, your post inspired me to start searching on the words "candelabra base," which I had neglected to do before. Based on these new searches, I figured out that that white cylinder in my picture is actually probably a smooth candle sleeve (or socket/candle cover) and that at least one really weird lampshade actually does exist to fit it. If I can't find more lampshades like the one linked above then I suppose I could also try a smaller CFL (or LED) bulb that would play better with a clip-on shade. Again, thanks!
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Dec 11, 2011 15:27
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What is the metal edging on a wall corner called, and what am I supposed to do with it when it's partially exposed at said corner? Do I just paint over it or do I try to putty it and then sand it to match the wall surface before painting? I don't know what it's called to even google it - metal wall thingie?
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Dec 11, 2011 23:58
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That70sHeidi posted:What is the metal edging on a wall corner called, and what am I supposed to do with it when it's partially exposed at said corner? Do I just paint over it or do I try to putty it and then sand it to match the wall surface before painting? I don't know what it's called to even google it - metal wall thingie? Metal corner bead You can just paint over it if you like but if you want it to look seamless, you would fill the gouge with joint compound or other filler, then sand smooth
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Dec 12, 2011 00:16
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I posted in this thread a few months back about removing a wall. It's been removed, and now I'm re-flooring the room with laminate. I've never installed it before, and I'm wondering where to start the installation. This is the room how it is now, minus the wall. The new floor will start at the top of the stairs, and not continue into any of the other rooms, planks laid parallel to the long walls of the room.(Horizontally in the picture) I started installing it last night, and discovered none of the walls are not perfectly square. I was planning on starting on the upper right corner of the room, but how will I deal with the doorways along the wall? I thought about the lower left corner, but that presents the same issue when I have to wrap around to the top of the staircase.
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Dec 13, 2011 17:15
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Depending on how your laminate clicks, it can be very difficult to go backwards and backtrack around a corner. If you can't backtrack, then start somewhere like your stairs where you never have to go backwards. To wrap around doors / stairs etc, you need to make some complex cuts with either a jigsaw or tablesaw. Those are easiest anyways. Out of square corners shouldn't be an issue, just make sure you maintain an overall straight line and cut the ends of each board to match the wall angle. Try to ensure you don't have any tiny pieces at either end and plan your layout accordingly. All the oddball cuts should be within 1/4" of the wall and then your baseboard should cover them up easily. Buy transition mouldings for each doorway.
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Dec 13, 2011 18:55
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I have a Frigidaire Dryer Model FER641FS0. The other night I put clothes in it, turned it on as normal, then a few seconds later there was a loud screeching noise and a faint smell of burning. I took everything out and checked to see if some clothing had gotten stuck or something, nothing was noticed. I put clothes back in a bit at a time and got to about 75% of the previous load size before the tumbler no longer tumbled. I downloaded to about 50% of the previous load size and ran the dryer thinking the tumbler part(s) were wearing out but otherwise it was still working. Checked back ~40 minutes later to still wet clothes and then I noticed that there was no heat/humid feel when I opened the dryer door as there usually is. So I have the problem(s) of a tumbler that's dying on the tumbling part and no heat being produced. I have consulted the above website and this one and tested the thermal fuse and thermostat per this site. The timer motor I'm not exactly sure of where it is and the heating element I think I have to take the entire drum out to access so I'm posting here hoping for some advice before I attempt that.
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Dec 14, 2011 23:05
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Sounds like the drum belt, belt pulley and/or tensioner took a dump. (Under the MOTOR section, look at parts number F23 (pulley/tensioner) and F25 (belt) (edit) the tension spring (F22) may have left the building as well. If you're lucky, it's only the tensioner and pulley, which can be replaced without removing the belt or drum. Had you noticed it squeaked rhythmically for some weeks or months before this happened? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Dec 15, 2011 |
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Dec 15, 2011 00:47
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I haven't noticed any squeaking or other noise (beyond normal operating noise) but my dryer is also stuck out in the garage essentially so maybe I missed it. Here's a picture of the tensioner, it doesn't appear broken to me. 
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Dec 15, 2011 03:14
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Can you run it and observe the area photgraphed? The timer motor is attached to the dial you rotatae to set your dryer type/time. You have to remove the top console to get to it. Could also be the drum bearing is seizing. No heat - the element has burned out? Usually when the timer goes, it just runs forever. It's odd that you would have spin and heat loss issues simultaneously. Try running it empty for a few minutes see if it heats up. If the drum is not spinning properly, it may trigger some type of limiter switch to shut off the heat. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Dec 15, 2011 |
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Dec 15, 2011 04:29
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PainterofCrap posted:Can you run it and observe the area photgraphed? quote:The timer motor is attached to the dial you rotatae to set your dryer type/time. You have to remove the top console to get to it. quote:Could also be the drum bearing is seizing.
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Dec 15, 2011 07:10
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Totally TWISTED posted:I kind of did this. I hit the start button and before I could get my head down by the hole a horrific noise and a shower of firey bits came out of the hole so I just pulled the plug. My linoleum floor has scorch marks now from bits of whatever that flew out. Looking in the hole after all that I can't actually see anything different but I can smell a burning type smell.  Sounds like some metal bit has come loose and is now at war with other metal bits in the vicinity of your pulley assembly. Now that it's unplugged - can you try rotating it by hand, either by spinning the drum of pulling on the belt? Also try rotating it backwards and see if anything interesting falls out. I hate long-distance diagnosis.
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Dec 16, 2011 00:27
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I need to tint the inside of a baby bottle nipple pink, but paints arent working, any guesses?
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Dec 16, 2011 01:11
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I have an old bath tub setup (late 1950s) and when I switch the valve to push the water from the faucet to the shower head, about half of the water continues gushing from the faucet. Of course, it seems that it's ONLY hot water doing this, so showers have become very brief due to hot water quickly running out. Any advice on how to fix it? Part of me wants to just jam a rubber stopper up in the faucet to at least slow the flow down, but I'm not sure if that will achieve anything or if it'd put extra stress on the old pipes.
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Dec 16, 2011 04:37
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Ballz posted:I have an old bath tub setup (late 1950s) and when I switch the valve to push the water from the faucet to the shower head, about half of the water continues gushing from the faucet. Of course, it seems that it's ONLY hot water doing this, so showers have become very brief due to hot water quickly running out. You'll need to pull the cartridge out and take a look at it. Here's the short version of taking a look at it. 1. cover the drain so you don't lose any parts 2. shut the hot and cold valves tight 3. remove the diverter handle from the stem 4. unscrew remove the escutcheon from around the stem with your hand 5. unscrew the packing nut from the stem 6. pull the cartridge out 7. inspect everything for damage
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Dec 16, 2011 05:56
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Totally TWISTED posted:screeching dryer PainterofCrap posted:Sounds like some metal bit has come loose and is now at war with other metal bits in the vicinity of your pulley assembly. The dryer this thread helped me repair last year now blew for good after my wife put in far too much load, which resulted in the drum being ripped off one of the suspension plate's points and loosening the other two. It would still turn, but with a screeching, grinding noise. In my case I had to take the back plate and heating element off to diagnose. Hope for you that's not it, TT.
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Dec 16, 2011 11:40
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PainterofCrap posted:Now that it's unplugged - can you try rotating it by hand, either by spinning the drum of pulling on the belt? Also try rotating it backwards and see if anything interesting falls out. Underflow posted:The dryer this thread helped me repair last year now blew for good after my wife put in far too much load, which resulted in the drum being ripped off one of the suspension plate's points and loosening the other two. It would still turn, but with a screeching, grinding noise. In my case I had to take the back plate and heating element off to diagnose. Hope for you that's not it, TT.
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Dec 16, 2011 22:44
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Totally TWISTED posted:I can rotate the drum both directions by hand, nothing seems to have fallen out. How does it feel when you spin it? Smooth? Bumpy?
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Dec 17, 2011 00:24
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PainterofCrap posted:How does it feel when you spin it? Smooth? Bumpy? Smooth.
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Dec 17, 2011 00:33
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I just bought a ceiling lamp (3 halogen spots) that requires a grounded connection. When I removed my old lamp it only has a ungrounded conection (blue and black wire). Is it safe/possible to use this new lamp anyhow?
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Dec 17, 2011 11:53
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Only if you can run an earth cable somewhere. Look for a convenient junction box or maybe even bonded pipework?
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Dec 17, 2011 13:23
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Hello guys. With a friend we were discussing ways of recycling supermarket polyetilene bags and we came upon the simple method of melting them in hot oil and then putting them in a mold, and so we got ourselves thinking: what else can we do that might be useful (and not just decorative) in a house, that involves recycling or at least reusing things/being barely ecological? She lives in a first floor apartment, and this is a crowded city, so not much free space to build cool stuff like a windmill or solar projects. Anyone got any cool ideas? I'm stumped.
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Dec 17, 2011 18:17
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Oli posted:I just bought a ceiling lamp (3 halogen spots) that requires a grounded connection. When I removed my old lamp it only has a ungrounded conection (blue and black wire). Is it in a metal box? Get a cheap circuit tester and test for a circuit between the hot wire and the box. If it lights up, then the box is grounded. Also, grounds are not "required" for lamps to work. Grounds are strictly for safety. Unless you're some giant or it's a low-mounted fixture, it's doubtful that anyone will ever touch it and get shocked.
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Dec 17, 2011 20:36
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kid sinister posted:it's doubtful that anyone will ever touch it and get shocked. *brushes light fitting with aluminium ladder a week later*
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Dec 18, 2011 19:49
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Thanks for the advice, I had no choice but to install it without ground, but it works fine anyhow!
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Dec 18, 2011 23:44
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I rent a condo and purchased a Honeywell RTH8500 thermostat that has worked great during the summer. With heat my unit occasionally makes horrifying sounds and I worry something is being damaged inside the AC/Heater unit. The unit outside is a ComfortMaker n2h324aka200... which I believe, according to the settings the repair guy set my thermostat to, is an electric furnace with heat pump and backup/aux heating. I set my phone to record the unit while it heated my place from about 64F and when it go to around 71F (about 30 minutes) it makes the sound in the MP3 below. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/53836306/Cutted%2020-12-53%20Memo.MP3 Is this something to be worried about? Should I contact the repair guy to make a trip out?
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Dec 19, 2011 02:32
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I have a home networking question that I think is better suited for here than in SH/SC. My cable modem is in one room, and my computer is in another. I have a wireless adapter on it, but I would really like to use a wired connection for a variety of reasons. Due to the layout of the rooms though, I would need a very long ethernet cable to get from point A to point B. See my awesome architectural rendering below: I'd like to just run the cable through that wall instead of along the floor and through both doors. What's the best way of doing this in a relatively neat fashion?
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Dec 19, 2011 19:16
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stubblyhead posted:I have a home networking question that I think is better suited for here than in SH/SC. My cable modem is in one room, and my computer is in another. I have a wireless adapter on it, but I would really like to use a wired connection for a variety of reasons. Due to the layout of the rooms though, I would need a very long ethernet cable to get from point A to point B. See my awesome architectural rendering below: The simplest option is exactly what you think. drill a hole just large enough to pass some CAT6 through it between the two rooms' shared wall. Naturally, be mindful of if there are any electrical lines in that wall when drilling through. I would suggest cutting the RJ45 connector off the wire, then recrimping it once it's through the wall, so you can minimize the size of the hole. The alternative option is going down through a basement if there is one below that.
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Dec 19, 2011 20:05
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Dragyn posted:The simplest option is exactly what you think. drill a hole just large enough to pass some CAT6 through it between the two rooms' shared wall. Naturally, be mindful of if there are any electrical lines in that wall when drilling through. That doesn't qualify as relatively neat for me. I'd rather not have unfinished holes in my drywall. I'd like to avoid recrimping too, but I realize that may not be possible.
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Dec 19, 2011 20:40
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stubblyhead posted:I have a home networking question that I think is better suited for here than in SH/SC. My cable modem is in one room, and my computer is in another. I have a wireless adapter on it, but I would really like to use a wired connection for a variety of reasons. Due to the layout of the rooms though, I would need a very long ethernet cable to get from point A to point B. See my awesome architectural rendering below: Not to tell you what to do but is it an option to reposition the cable modem? I realize that likely results in drilling another hole but at least you won't have to string wires through your house.
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Dec 19, 2011 20:53
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stubblyhead posted:That doesn't qualify as relatively neat for me. I'd rather not have unfinished holes in my drywall. I'd like to avoid recrimping too, but I realize that may not be possible. If you don't wish to cut holes for the line, you only have the option of wireless or using existing media. I've never used them, but these exist: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10501&cs_id=1050106&p_id=6998 Ethernet over power line. I can't imagine they work well at all. Maybe sme other goon can chime in on that.
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Dec 19, 2011 20:53
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Just buy a couple of these and the appropriate Cat 5 or Cat 6 inserts, a few cables and call it a day. If that is not relatively neat enough you could call in a trim carpenter to put gold-plated flute and rosette molding around them.
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Dec 19, 2011 21:10
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Dragyn posted:If you don't wish to cut holes for the line, you only have the option of wireless or using existing media. Oh, I don't mind cutting holes in the wall at all. I just don't want to drill a hole, stick wire through, and call it a day. Corla Plankun posted:If that is not relatively neat enough you could call in a trim carpenter to put gold-plated flute and rosette molding around them. Now you're talking.  In seriousness though, I think the wall plates you posted would probably work. I'm guessing I'd plug the cable into the connector on either side of the wall, and have a short length of cable between them with each individual wire soldered to the back side of the connectors?
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Dec 19, 2011 21:34
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kid sinister posted:Do the old toothpick trick. Get yourself some toothpicks wood glue, or if you got any kids, use some school glue, it's almost the same stuff. Fill the holes with glue, then start jamming in toothpicks one at a time. Keep jamming new ones with their pointed ends into any holes until you can't fit any more in. Use a hammer to give them an extra tap in. You should be able to break them off at the surface by snapping them to the side. Then let the glue dry overnight. The next day, cut and sand the toothpicks flat and you've got a new surface to drill into. Just wanted to come back and say thanks for this. The toothpick trick worked like a charm, as did the dental picks. Thanks DIY'ers! I feel like Bob loving Vila today. 
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Dec 19, 2011 21:52
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