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overthefalls posted:Ah, it's nice to paint again. Get a purple wash into the deepest folds on that stomach. You'll like what it does.
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Dec 9, 2014 14:51
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What shades of brown and red do people use to make a rust wash. I'm looking at the Privateer Press site and the model they show for the dire troll bomber and I'm trying to replicate the rusted look of the harness on it's back. I figure brown, some red and a lot of water to thin it way down but I'd love some suggestions. Link of the model I'm referring to below. http://privateerpress.com/hordes/gallery/trollbloods/warbeasts/dire-troll-bomber
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Dec 9, 2014 17:28
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Spigs posted:What shades of brown and red do people use to make a rust wash. I'm looking at the Privateer Press site and the model they show for the dire troll bomber and I'm trying to replicate the rusted look of the harness on it's back. I figure brown, some red and a lot of water to thin it way down but I'd love some suggestions. Link of the model I'm referring to below. PP's studio uses weathering powders for their rust effects.
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Dec 9, 2014 18:48
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Yeah weathering powders and thinner (or whatever you use, I use airbrush thinner) make the best rust effects.
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Dec 9, 2014 19:25
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Spigs posted:What shades of brown and red do people use to make a rust wash. I'm looking at the Privateer Press site and the model they show for the dire troll bomber and I'm trying to replicate the rusted look of the harness on it's back. I figure brown, some red and a lot of water to thin it way down but I'd love some suggestions. Link of the model I'm referring to below. If you must make your own wash I've been using a mix of flame orange, indian yellow, and magenta
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Dec 9, 2014 21:20
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krushgroove posted:Yeah weathering powders and thinner (or whatever you use, I use airbrush thinner) make the best rust effects. Could you tell me more? Do you just mix them into an ungodly slurry and let the thinner evaporate off?
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Dec 9, 2014 23:28
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That's one way to do it. Mix them into a mud, paint it on, and then let it dry. Or you can drybrush it on while dry and then hit it with some alcohol.
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Dec 9, 2014 23:30
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overthefalls posted:Ah, it's nice to paint again. Was going to recommend a purple wash on the belly, but gaylord beat me to it.
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Dec 10, 2014 02:03
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I need a source on some 28mm figures of guys in workers jumpsuits/painter suits/tank crewman suits, preferably with no hats or helmets unless they are motorcycle helmets.
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Dec 10, 2014 03:00
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It's ironic that I have to order an adapter for my Paasche hose seeing as I've got a Badger compressor but, holy poo poo, that discount on the SOTAR is too good to pass up. Thanks for the heads up.
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Dec 10, 2014 05:18
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ineptmule posted:Could you tell me more? Do you just mix them into an ungodly slurry and let the thinner evaporate off? BULBASAUR posted:That's one way to do it. Mix them into a mud, paint it on, and then let it dry. Or you can drybrush it on while dry and then hit it with some alcohol.
I think these are the main ways to use powders, but there are probably more I can't remember at the moment. I do hit the powders with lacquer afterwards to keep it in place because everything I paint gets used in games, but if it's for display only you don't have to do this.
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Dec 10, 2014 12:47
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You can also load the front up with powder and then blast thinner through an airbrush front the front to give you movement effects on planes/skimmers too.
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Dec 10, 2014 13:06
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Also gently caress. Yes. This kit is amazing.
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Dec 10, 2014 13:37
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Is that Curze?
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Dec 10, 2014 13:47
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I might buy it for that superhero looking solar auxilia on the right. Incidental dead dude sculpt is awesome.
A 50S RAYGUN fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Dec 10, 2014 |
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Dec 10, 2014 13:56
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Curze sighting! Can't wait for mine to show up. Better stock up on Blood for the Blood God technical paint.
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Dec 10, 2014 23:49
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I think he might be the smallest primarch yet. He doesnt seem any bigger than Lorgar.
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Dec 10, 2014 23:56
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serious gaylord posted:I think he might be the smallest primarch yet. He doesnt seem any bigger than Lorgar. He's absolutely a manlet. Compare him to the assault marine and he's really not much bigger. 
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Dec 11, 2014 00:08
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I need a source on some 28mm figures of guys in workers jumpsuits/painter suits/tank crewman suits, preferably with no hats or helmets unless they are motorcycle helmets. It's a super expensive way of doing it, but I've been using the Forge World Elysians as the basis for my Necromunda Van Saars and that's kind of the look you might be going for? Edit: also, cheers all for the weathering powder advice. It's a scary new world.
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Dec 11, 2014 00:16
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Slimnoid posted:He's absolutely a manlet. Compare him to the assault marine and he's really not much bigger. He's also in a weird splayed-leg position - he's primarch scale. Even in that weird pose, he's still taller than the standard Marine. ineptmule posted:It's a super expensive way of doing it, but I've been using the Forge World Elysians as the basis for my Necromunda Van Saars.
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Dec 11, 2014 01:06
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Slimnoid posted:He's absolutely a manlet. Compare him to the assault marine and he's really not much bigger. Wow, that model is gorgeous. £57 is totally bonkers though.
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Dec 11, 2014 01:23
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Just finished this Tamiya armoured car. 
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Dec 11, 2014 02:22
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That looks fantastic, and I'm assuming you're doing the German desert mustard-yellow, but something about your lighting setup / sealing coat makes it look like you went ball-to-the-wall NMM bronze on that 223.
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Dec 11, 2014 02:33
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Yeah, that's Tamiya Desert Yellow. I think it's the auto colour balance on my camera. I tried fiddling with the colour balance to make it look more like it does in real life, but it still didn't look quite right.
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Dec 11, 2014 03:24
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ineptmule posted:It's a super expensive way of doing it, but I've been using the Forge World Elysians as the basis for my Necromunda Van Saars and that's kind of the look you might be going for? I'm modelling a 1980's Japanese street gang for a new miniatures game my group is playing that is all about 80's martial arts/Hong Kong action flicks. 
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Dec 11, 2014 03:58
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The Supreme Court posted:Wow, that model is gorgeous. £57 is totally bonkers though. Kind of surprised it's not the dark knight style perched on top of a gargoyle pose. Whole thing looks weird to me. Seems like he has bad footing.
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Dec 11, 2014 04:50
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I'm modelling a 1980's Japanese street gang for a new miniatures game my group is playing that is all about 80's martial arts/Hong Kong action flicks. I wanna know when and why the second from left and third from right traded boots.
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Dec 11, 2014 06:00
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I need a source on some 28mm figures of guys in workers jumpsuits/painter suits/tank crewman suits, preferably with no hats or helmets unless they are motorcycle helmets. Looks like there's a line of minis for a game called Kiss Kiss Bang Bang that might fit the bill. I found them when I was looking around here.
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Dec 11, 2014 06:56
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I'm 3300 posts behind on this thread so here's a crosspost:ghetto wormhole posted:Say hello to Commissar Skull!
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Dec 11, 2014 08:15
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serious gaylord posted:Also gently caress. Yes. This kit is amazing. I don't usually do much painting over the winter, but he's definitely on the list once the sun comes back again
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Dec 11, 2014 08:58
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Preiser makes 1:50 scale mechanics in jumpsuits (68212) that might work, but they're architectural figures and might not come unpainted.
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Dec 11, 2014 09:51
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moths posted:Preiser makes 1:50 scale mechanics in jumpsuits (68212) that might work, but they're architectural figures and might not come unpainted. Well, the first thing I thought when I saw the guy in white was "Japanese construction worker," so your recommendation isn't far off. The only thing he's missing is a green cross on his helmet.
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Dec 11, 2014 14:09
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Argh, this keeps happening. I get the urge to paint something while I'm at work, but by the end of the day I'm too tired to actually sit down and do it. Grrr. Definitely need to work on some stuff this weekend. I'm way behind.
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Dec 11, 2014 15:59
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My conquest finally came in (albeit missing pieces) so its finally time for me to start making my base for the thing. What would be the best material to flesh out a trench like this?  Not sure what would look best. Should I be making a mound then a tench, or raise the whole base like a cutaway? Want to to be sturdy and not too gaudy. Open to alternative ideas as well. Just spent a ton of money on this thing and really want to nail the base.
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Dec 11, 2014 16:52
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Esser-Z posted:Argh, this keeps happening. I get the urge to paint something while I'm at work, but by the end of the day I'm too tired to actually sit down and do it. Grrr. This is me, all the time. Or I'll go to bed thinking of a color scheme and toss and turn then I'm exhausted the next day and don't feel like painting. Wish I knew the secret to feeling refreshed when I get home so I can hobby more.
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Dec 11, 2014 20:02
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berzerkmonkey posted:This is me, all the time. Or I'll go to bed thinking of a color scheme and toss and turn then I'm exhausted the next day and don't feel like painting. Cocaine.
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Dec 11, 2014 20:17
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Lord Thrust posted:Cocaine.
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Dec 11, 2014 20:25
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I've been working on some GorkaMorka muties. Pretty pleased with how they are coming out. I've always wanted to make a raiding party of these guys, but the originial models a) cost crazy money these days and b) look like utter balls. I imagine them as being like Tusken Raiders, less 'spikes and tentacles' and more Fallout-style mutated, hideous and bitter about it, so they hide themselves behind the masks and rags etc. I'm leaning towards differentiating the Unks and Snagas more with the different sized mounts - it makes sense to me, seeing as they are treated as a single model, that having the rather fearsome looking dinosaurs represent a large part of the model's stats, so the heavier, tougher looking old style cold ones work well for the Unks. First Unk   First Snaga/Seeker   Probably Keeper?  I really don't like the current lizardmen cold ones - they look so goofy, especially their really inept looking forelimbs. GW really hosed up I think with the lizardmen range. Anyway, I'm pretty new to green stuff, so I'm looking for suggestions on how to build up the stowed kit/gear and make it seem more like it's really attached to the saddle or harness. I've tried to put a sort of leather underlayer beneath each collection of kit, as well as sort of balancing the amount/volume on either side, but these green stuff bits are pretty lacking in detail, so I need some ideas of how to busy it up a bit and make it look a bit more interesting. berzerkmonkey posted:Wow - good idea. I may steal that. I was just cataloging my NM stuff, and realizing the real Van Saars kind of suck. I'm really liking the effect. I also think the Elysian lasguns look awesomely different and high-tech which definitely fits for the Van Saar. Here's my VS test model:   
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Dec 11, 2014 20:31
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ineptmule posted:
Her head looks a bit big. Are you using the truescale or heroic heads?
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Dec 11, 2014 21:36
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Heroic. Yeah, it is too big. They came from Statuesque, and I'm considering getting their true scale heads instead, which would be nice as there are many more options at that scale. However then I have the issue of trying to get the scale to match across the rest of the heads I've got. I've got heads from like 6 different suppliers, so I'm going to have to figure it out. Edit: I guess the other thing to note is the Elysian bodies seem pretty small - true scale or even slightly smaller. Finding heads with a sufficient range of aesthetics at the right scales is hard 
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Dec 11, 2014 22:10
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