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peepsalot posted:Wouldn't a UK poster call it a 50x100 or something? It's mostly me poo poo-talking Cakefool since I know he's in the UK, probably nesting right in the shadow of the Games Workshop HQ.
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Dec 23, 2011 19:48
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^^surprisingly close actually, Notts is only half an hour drive away. Dr. Video Games 0089 posted:Laminating a bunch of wide board together sounds interesting. How I would go about laminating? The only lamination process I'm aware of is taking papers to a kinkos but I'm pretty sure this process is different Lamination simply means to glue layers. Lets say you want a 1 1/2" thick table & are using 1/2" x 12" timbers, Lay out your 8' x 5' as 5 x 8' lengths of timber, coat liberally in wood, apply 8 x 5' lengths timber at 90' to the first layer, then glue liberally again, now apply another layer of 5 x 8' lengths of timber. Apply force (1000lbs of sandbags, a pile of acme safes, 6 fat chicks, a spare Volvo etc)& leave it to dry for ages. When dry, trim the edges & sand all surfaces & edges. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Dec 23, 2011 |
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Dec 23, 2011 19:54
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I made a workbench out of an old door. Works fine in the garage.
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Dec 23, 2011 20:34
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I made a workbench out of an old door. Works fine in the garage. I just went to Home Depot and found this in the door section:  36x80 1-3/8HC Flush Prime HRDDBD SLAB for $27 I think this will work for me. It's thick, durable, and already has a smooth finish. Only problem I have is that the surface may be easily prone to dents - any suggestions on a cheap way to protect the surface? Thanks for the laminating info.
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Dec 23, 2011 22:08
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Splizwarf posted:I have always felt that a work surface is a bad deal if it doesn't have 1/4-inch steel as the top layer. You know you want to. The lovely tossup is that stainless and magnetic steel are almost mutually exclusive.
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Dec 23, 2011 22:27
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Splizwarf posted:You know you want to. The lovely tossup is that stainless and magnetic steel are almost mutually exclusive. How about a nice thick skin of coated mild, a couple of thou of plastic then a stainless skin?
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Dec 23, 2011 23:11
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Can anyone recommend a high quality NO KINK hose? I would hate to see the "kinky" version of the "no kink" hoses I got from Home Depot / Lowe's. They must be getting gangbanged by pitch forks. I don't mind paying a bit extra for a high quality no kink hose, I'm just sick of walking back and fixing kinks every two minutes. Thanks!
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Dec 24, 2011 00:03
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Socratic Moron posted:Can anyone recommend a high quality NO KINK hose? I would hate to see the "kinky" version of the "no kink" hoses I got from Home Depot / Lowe's. They must be getting gangbanged by pitch forks. My friend picked up a $35 no-kink hose from Costco a few months ago. It's really, really well-built, and has withstood some of the most aggressive non-construction use like a champ. I reserve my final judgement until it's been outside in a desert summer for a year, but it's doing great in the cold.
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Dec 24, 2011 01:06
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Splizwarf posted:You know you want to. The lovely tossup is that stainless and magnetic steel are almost mutually exclusive. I'll just walk into the cheap stainless and magnetic steel plate store and grab some
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Dec 24, 2011 03:40
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Dr. Video Games 0089 posted:I think this will work for me. It's thick, durable, and already has a smooth finish. Only problem I have is that the surface may be easily prone to dents - any suggestions on a cheap way to protect the surface? Go to Home Depot cabinet section and buy a sheet of melamine (laminate countertop material) which will probably be listed under a trade name like Wilsonart or Formica... it's stain, heat, & dent resistant. Glue it down with 3M 77 (spray glue) or contact cement.
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Dec 24, 2011 04:29
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...then get a router & a laminate cutting bit to trim it to the size of the door slab
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Dec 24, 2011 06:09
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Geoj posted:HVAC question - That sounds like the flame sensor to me. After a while they get corroded and can't detect heat properly causing the sputtering effect you are seeing. Unplug/shut power off to the furnace and then just clean the sensor with some steel wool or sand paper. That should get it working right.
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Dec 24, 2011 17:57
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This thread is so cool. Even just skimming teaches so much. But I am back with a few paint related questions: 1. I spilled some tinted Kilz2 on unsealed colored grout and I cannot for the life of me get it off. Is there any hope? I'm wondering if I shouldn't try and dremel in there to get rid of the top layer. My go-to for fixing things - Magic Eraser - let me down. 2. How can I get the same Kilz2 off vinyl baseboards? I tried razoring and Erasing, but I'm afraid of damaging the vinyl. 3. I used the same Kilz2 to repaint some bathroom cabinets, but I think I need a top coat. Is it possible to use an acrylic art-grade sealant/gloss over top latex or do I need to take all the hardware off again, go to the store again, and do it the right way? I'm kind of OK with Erasing any marks off each week, but eliminating that would probably be better. And I vow never to paint a room. Any room. For any reason, whatsoever. I will pay. God I hate painting.
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Dec 24, 2011 18:23
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For the grout - the only thing I can recommend is a grout chaser, but you'll have to re-pack new grout...unless you have some of that tinted grout left, that could be problematic. Try chasing it very lightly - or try a piece of folded sandpaper (using the fold) - again, lightly. And I apologize in advance...while reading your post I couldn't help but picture you painting the room with a lawn sprinkler  Once the cabinet paint cures, you should be able to coat it. I'd test it somewhere inconspicuous first - or test-paint a piece of scrap & test top-coating it there. paint on vinyl = a bitch. Painting is ALL prep. Plus, keeping a few clean, wet rags handy to wipe as you go. VVV Ja, painting does suck...especially for those of us who don't do it all the time. I had very poor luck with painting tools like edgers & stuff. My dad (who was a research chemist who designed latex paints) poo-poohed them & said all anyone ever needed was a really high-quality cut brush...and he was right. About 10-years ago I spent over $25 to get a short-handled, 1.5" brush with an angled tip. I swear by that brush to this day. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Dec 24, 2011 |
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Dec 24, 2011 18:39
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PainterofCrap posted:For the grout - the only thing I can recommend is a grout chaser, but you'll have to re-pack new grout...unless you have some of that tinted grout left, that could be problematic. Try chasing it very lightly - or try a piece of folded sandpaper (using the fold) - again, lightly. I was so, so, so careful this time with taping off and STILL screwed things up. It's a small room, and I'm fat, and I had issues getting the tape to go straight on the baseboards because there was so little room to maneuver. And I used a new paint tool this time and my learning curve is very shallow, so my first three strokes had paint splattering, dropping, dripping and flopping EVERYWHERE. Also, because room is very small and in order to load paint on the pad with the stick attached, I kept banging into the window behind me with the pole and I was fairly sure I'd break it before I was done. In hindsight I should have eschewed the pole and just gone the ladder and hand tool route, even on the ceiling. Oh, and I have zero concept of where I just painted, so according to my mom, who was in another room, all she heard was "*bang* oops, poo poo *bang* goddamnit! And now there's paint on my arm... and then she touches the wet wall... and now there's paint on her sock... Did you ever get me tested for retardation, mom? *bang* Dammit, now there's paint on my bra. And I just cut myself. Now there's blood and paint on the baseboard. *snap plop* Jesus gently caress this thing won't stay together!" Basically there weren't enough clean, wet rags in the world for this project. I will try the sanding, and yes this tiny bathroom took a week to work on and I KNOW I did not give enough dry time to the cabinets before the second coat but on the plus side I didn't get any paint on carpeting for once Thanks for the feedback.
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Dec 24, 2011 19:01
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That70sHeidi posted:Mayhem Holy crap. Next time you plan a project like that, do a literal dry run first with no paint, work out whether you and the tools will work in the space (I'm a skinny guy & I still find problems working in corners etc) work out in advance what tools you'll need so you don't need to run off mid project to find something. Also, patience. Go do something else when project A needs to dry, start project B instead of starting the second coat too early & screwing the first one up. 
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Dec 24, 2011 19:26
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Mayhem is pretty much it! And never doing it again. I will hire people. There are experts, they need to make a living, and I don't need to have primer in my hair. I also have four cuts, a bruise and a burn. I don't like it. I just spent the time from my last post laying on the floor of the bathroom, a 6-pack of Charmin mega rolls under my boob/shoulder, as I used my exacto knife on the baseboards, slowly and carefully cutting and peeling up the excess paint without damaging the baseboards themselves. At which point I discovered that although the baseboards had paint, the actual wall that met the baseboard did not. I have no idea how I managed to do that. But by the time the family came home (and laughed at me laying on the bathroom floor like a giant land whale) it bugged me enough to carefully fill in with one of my #2 flat artists brushes. I thought about using one of my fan brushes for blending, but they were expensive and I only have two and I didn't want to ruin them with latex. In fact, if I had taped off an inch above the baseboards and then done the entire bottom area by hand with my artists brushes, I would have been better off. The sanding of the grout was OK, I'll do another run at it when I have more resources (all my grits are upstairs for crafting). Any info on sealing the bloody stuff now? The kitchen, family room, hall and powder room all have tile and no sealant. Would I gently caress this up if I did it myself? Now to search out the coping saw to cut the dowel for window security. I loving love DIY.
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Dec 24, 2011 20:37
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 My 50 gallon water heater is ten years old, has R-8 insulation, and sits in my uninsulated garage. Where I live it rarely gets below zero outside but will frequently be 10-20 degrees F at night. Is it worth it to wrap the water heater in additional insulation? My neighbor just did but he's also newly retired and looking for projects.
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Dec 24, 2011 20:56
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King Nothing posted:My 50 gallon water heater is ten years old, has R-8 insulation, and sits in my uninsulated garage. Where I live it rarely gets below zero outside but will frequently be 10-20 degrees F at night. Is it worth it to wrap the water heater in additional insulation? My neighbor just did but he's also newly retired and looking for projects. 30 second job and dirt cheap.
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Dec 24, 2011 21:02
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Socratic Moron posted:I personally wouldn't since it's already insulated (others will say yes) put I'd insulate that one exposed water pipe. Aren't the two exposed pipes the cold water line and gas line? There's a pipe with a red knob that's already wrapped in foam. King Nothing fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Dec 24, 2011 |
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Dec 24, 2011 21:08
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That70sHeidi, how the heck did you burn yourself while painting? King Nothing posted:Aren't the two exposed pipes the cold water line and gas line? There's a pipe with a red knob that's already wrapped in foam. I think the copper pipe on the right might be the overflow line. The one at the bottom is definitely the gas though.
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Dec 24, 2011 21:24
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stubblyhead posted:
That is the pressure relief valve. That's only used if the pressure in the tank gets dangerously high, and technically it's a drain anyway, so it doesn't need to be insulated. The pipe with the red knob is probably the service entrance. The red knob is probably the main valve shutoff for the house.
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Dec 24, 2011 22:30
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stubblyhead posted:That70sHeidi, how the heck did you burn yourself while painting? I started in daylight and finished at night; the first two vanity bulbs I brushed against were just warm, but the one on the end was nuclear fusion hot, so as I swiped past it with my foam painter thingie, major ouchie. Which is another thing to do in there - replace those effing bulbs with natural light bulbs so the room looks peach instead of pink. In future tellings of the Great Powder Room Adventure of Aught '11, I will say that the next day when I cleaned the bulbs and vanity thoroughly, I found a little scrap of shriveled skin clinging to the bulb.
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Dec 24, 2011 23:24
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My bad! I thought that was the water line into the tank My apologies!
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Dec 25, 2011 01:46
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Dragyn posted:My girlfriend lives in a 3 story townhome. This is her first winter the upstairs (3rd floor) is incredibly cold, while the downstairs (where the thermostat is, single zone) is comfortable. You seem to have the exact opposite problem most people have in townhomes. Usually, the third floor is too hot, and the first floor is too cold. Have you checked the temperature of the air coming from the registers on the third floor compared to the first floor registers? A few degrees difference is normal, but if if there's a substantial difference, that may be another problem. Also, how is the air pressure on the third floor compared to the first? Forgive me for asking a dumb question, but have you tried closing the registers on the first floor a little, the opening them up on the third floor? You may just need to force some more heat up there. Is there anything restricting the hot air from rising, as in does your girlfriend keep every door closed?
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Dec 25, 2011 06:53
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I bought my SO an awesome poster for Christmas. It's printed on heavy cardstock, and it's 24"x36". SO doesn't want to put it in a thick frame behind glass (and I agree, frame would detract from the poster, glass would contribute to glare). Is there any way to mount it to the wall that wouldn't involve gluing it down to a board?
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Dec 25, 2011 21:08
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30 Goddamned Dicks posted:I bought my SO an awesome poster for Christmas. It's printed on heavy cardstock, and it's 24"x36". SO doesn't want to put it in a thick frame behind glass (and I agree, frame would detract from the poster, glass would contribute to glare). Is there any way to mount it to the wall that wouldn't involve gluing it down to a board? Uhh, frame it without the glass? Or mount a little shelf and set it on the shelf, maybe one with a groove in the shelf like for displaying plates. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Dec 26, 2011 |
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Dec 26, 2011 06:41
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30 Goddamned Dicks posted:I bought my SO an awesome poster for Christmas. It's printed on heavy cardstock, and it's 24"x36". SO doesn't want to put it in a thick frame behind glass (and I agree, frame would detract from the poster, glass would contribute to glare). Is there any way to mount it to the wall that wouldn't involve gluing it down to a board? You could mount it on foam core unless that counts as gluing it to a board. There are thin frames and non-glare glass. Otherwise get some blue sticky claylike stuff and stick it to the wall.
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Dec 26, 2011 07:39
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I'm moving into a new apartment mid-January and it will be my first time painting. I'm getting conflicting advice so I'll just state what I know and try to get a consensus from everyone here. I'd rather ask a bunch of questions now and do it right rather than waste time and money and have sub-par final results. When I get there the first thing I plan on doing is measuring the surface area of all the walls, ceiling and trim so that I can buy the right amount of paint. I've heard that one gallon covers approx 400 sqft. Two of the rooms are very dark colors (one blue, one red) so I'll be using primer. Kilz2 seems to be well known and has good reviews. I've been told that since I have to prime those two rooms I should just get a 5 gallon container and prime everything. Should I prime the ceilings too? I'm not sure if the current paint is oil or latex, but I read that Kilz2 will cover either fine and allow me to paint on top with latex. Should I wash the walls before I prime? TSP was recommended to me but I don't know if it's overkill to do everything. Maybe just the walls in the kitchen if they're greasy? With regards to paint I'm planning to go with Benjamin Moore since I found some colors that I like and heard good things about the quality. Not sure whether to choose their cheap ben line or Regal Select, the price difference is $15/gallon. I think I'll only be living in the apartment for about two years, but if there is a big difference in quality I don't mind paying the difference. The ceilings will all be White in eggshell, the trim Super White in semigloss, and the walls will be various off white colors in matte. Here's what I think I need: An angled brush (2") for cutting in A smaller brush (1"?, angled?) for trim Rollers and extension rods Naps (no idea what thickness or material) Paint pans Drop clothes How can I tell which brushes are better quality? One of the ceilings is a weird texture, do I need a different thickness nap for that? Now here's where I'm really confused, the method. Having never painted before, I don't know what I need to do. I've done plenty of reading and got a lot of advice but I'm just not sure about anything. I was told a good quality angled brush for cutting in and a wet rag for fixing mistakes is much better than wasting time with masking tape, is this true? What order should I paint? Ceiling, trim, and then walls? Should I finish all the coats on one surface before I proceed to the next? Should I wait for one surface to dry before I go to the next? How should I clean my materials before switching to another paint color?
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Dec 27, 2011 05:29
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I've painted the interior of my house twice already, but take what I say with a grain of salt. I would not consider myself anywhere near a professional level. I would just do a quick wipe on the walls to make sure there isn't any dust or dirt around. The kitchen walls should definitely be cleaned up if they're greasy. The primer should do a good job of sticking to the wall and covering it, almost like giving the walls a new "skin." If you're only living in the place for two years, are you sure you want to buy "high quality" paint? The only reason people really buy high quality stuff is if they're professional painters not wanting to get called back to a job site, or don't plan on painting their house for 10+ years. Use Home Depot stuff -- their Behr brand is cheap enough and got some pretty good reviews. I have them on my house and think it's great. I personally used masking tape for everything because even with a good angled brush I made a ton of mistakes. A lot of good painters can cut in on edges really nicely, but it's a pretty drat good skill IMO. For rollers, consider getting fabric based ones. The cheap ones will get lint all over your walls. Get a 3/8" nap and you should be fine. Purdy has really nice brushes. Clean them well afterwards and they should last you years. To paint, I would do the entire room in primer first, then do the ceiling, walls, then trim last.
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Dec 27, 2011 08:20
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What the hell is this?  I grabbed it off the side of the road a few years ago thinking I could do something cool with it but nothing presented itself. It appears to be made from walnut and is not for decoration as the screws are visible. There is felt at the tip and looks like it was designed to hold something gingerly at an adjustable angle. Even if you don't know what it is, do you have any idea of something I could repurpose it for? I'm getting tired of it taking up space in my shop.
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Dec 27, 2011 08:30
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Looks like a homemade camera tripod - do you have a camera with a threaded hole in the underside you try for a fit?
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Dec 27, 2011 09:14
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I vote cymbal stand.
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Dec 27, 2011 09:16
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Cakefool posted:Looks like a homemade camera tripod - do you have a camera with a threaded hole in the underside you try for a fit? Yeah, the threaded rod is way too big for that. stubblyhead posted:I vote cymbal stand. Ha, it does resemble a cymbal stand but I've never seen a wooden one.
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Dec 27, 2011 10:16
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wormil posted:What the hell is this? I'm pretty drat sure that's a stand for probably a ride cymbal. That grommet at the top is, as near as I can tell from your picture, of the same type that are specifically designed to hold cymbals. wormil posted:Yeah, the threaded rod is way too big for that. It's home made, which is likely why you found it beside the road.
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Dec 27, 2011 14:51
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Bank posted:Use Home Depot stuff -- their Behr brand is cheap enough and got some pretty good reviews. I have them on my house and think it's great. Seconding this sentiment. I've only used Behr and Benjamin Moore paint in my house and the BM stuff looks like poo poo in the one room it's in, the Behr still looks great.
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Dec 27, 2011 14:56
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Has anyone ever seen a ceiling fan that has lights attached to it but with no switch/cable for the fan itself? Just moved into a place and the ceiling fan has a plug going into the wall outlet which is wired to a lightswitch. When I flick the switch on, the lights turn on but the fan doesn't spin. I've never seen a fan without a pull cord on it, so I'm just curious...
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Dec 27, 2011 16:31
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Sounds like someone broke the pull chain off.
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Dec 27, 2011 16:59
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nwin posted:Has anyone ever seen a ceiling fan that has lights attached to it but with no switch/cable for the fan itself? I've also never heard of a ceiling fan that plugs into an outlet. Is that even legal?
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Dec 27, 2011 17:42
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I have a very well-made canvas rolling duffel (SOC Gear) with sides that are too thick to sew through because of padding and interior netting. The patches I'd like to attach are also too thick for my upholstery needles to pierce because of super thick backing. How can I attach these patches to the duffel without sewing them or ironing them on (since ironing won't work due to the duffel's construction)? I'm guessing glue, but which type of glue? Thanks in advance!
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Dec 27, 2011 19:20
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