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My 250 bits are here  Somehow I thought I would be more prepared to put this together than I am. I'm second guessing everything I want to do with this thing.
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Aug 6, 2015 13:53
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Martytoof posted:Somehow I thought I would be more prepared to put this together than I am. I'm second guessing everything I want to do with this thing.
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Aug 6, 2015 15:54
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Does anyone have experience traveling internationally with drones? I got the hard backpack case for the Phantom 3, and I plan to have it with me as carry-on. Should I be worried about scanners at security checkpoints?
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Aug 6, 2015 18:27
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Only thing I've heard is grab some lip bags for your batteries and make sure you carry them on.
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Aug 6, 2015 18:51
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Combat Pretzel posted:You know what's going to be fun? Noticing all sorts of tools and small bits you're missing to put everything together. Trying to get a hold on M3 nylon spacers was especially annoying, the electronics parts shops around here didn't even carry any (like what). I've got a pretty good electronics place a short streetcar ride away, and a better one a short drive away, but somehow I don't doubt I'll be missing things I can't get anywhere 
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Aug 6, 2015 19:46
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Elendil004 posted:Only thing I've heard is grab some lip bags for your batteries and make sure you carry them on. this. Put all of your batteries in LiPo bag(s) and tape over their contacts to guarantee that they won't short out. You MUST declare the batteries at your flight's check-in. These days it's increasingly difficult to transport LiPo packs due to several fires en route caused by failing/defective LiPo shipments. http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/lipo-fire-onboard-fijian-airlines-b737 http://www.atsb.gov.au/publications/investigation_reports/2014/aair/ao-2014-082.aspx https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UPS_Airlines_Flight_6 http://www.stuff.co.nz/travel/travel-troubles/67421762/Small-fire-breaks-out-on-KLM-Airlines-flight
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Aug 6, 2015 20:51
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Thanks guys, I ordered some LiPo bags from Amazon. I'll also make sure to declare them at check-in.
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Aug 6, 2015 21:42
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The Supreme Court posted:I've got a hubsan x4 and am looking to put a camera on it, and maybe tinker with other bits; is there a beginner's guide you guys would recommend for someone just starting off? Sorry if I've missed an obvious answer, I had a quick check of the OP and last few pages. What do you want to achieve? The X4 is not an obvious starting point for beginner tinkering. It's quite small and it is generally pretty fiddly to DIY tack cameras and video transmitters and power sources on such small airframes and still get something light enough that will fly just slightly well. Might be a lot simpler to either progress towards a 250 size frame with plenty room for experimentation with modular components, or if you just want a cheap FPV starter setup, get a RTF thing with video like the Hubsan 107 or one slightly bigger. The 107 is an X4 with camera + video TX already integrated and the controller comes with a (cheap) video screen. The 107 is heavier and clumsier than the X4 and only gets a few less minutes of air time.
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Aug 7, 2015 00:37
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OK so I'm trying to pick a battery now. I've got four RCX H2206 1950kv on 5030 props. According to the data sheet they'll be drawing something like 9.7a @ 100%. So I'm looking at let's say 40amps to drive the motors. How much should I factor for the rest of my electronics? I mean the CC3D can't be drawing more than a few hundred milliamps, I have no idea how to even guess how much this lovely stock Turnigy RX pulls. I don't have any FPV gear on here now, but I'd rather buy a battery that I can "grow" into with FPV rather than buying one I won't be using later because it's run dry. At any rate, if I get a 1300mah 4S 40C that should give me 52 amps to throw around, so even with my round-up motor draw I still have 12 amps to play with. Is that a safe bet? I imagine I'll throw a few LEDs on the quad in a few weeks along with the FPV gear. I was thinking of this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__63379__ZIPPY_Compact_1300mAh_4s_40c_Lipo_Pack.html ... or equivalent if I can get faster shipping to Canada from somewhere else. I think the Turnigy nano-tech gets better reviews but it's on backorder. I think what I said makes sense but for all i know I completely misundertood something and it's all gibberish. Please correct me as needed. Incidentally, I think I overspecced my ESCs cause they're 20a each, but that shouldn't really be a problem, right? some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Aug 7, 2015 |
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Aug 7, 2015 03:10
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I caved and got a Blade Nano QX while at the hobby store today and this thing is so awesome. I hope I can keep it at that and not get addicted to quadrotors as well.
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Aug 7, 2015 07:59
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Martytoof posted:OK so I'm trying to pick a battery now. That should be fine. I use 1500mAh on my 250 quad with similar specs. Larger props, but only 3S. I can throw a 2200mAh on, but it feels sluggish. A couple 1300 will give you decent flying time while being light and nimble. Likely you'll be flying closer to 40-60% throttle, or about 5 amps per. Makes for a 15C rate. The electronics on the quad will be a negligible draw compared to the motors. The ESC are fine being over rated. I doubt they are much bigger than a 12A as far as weight savings go. I have a 40A ESC on my plane, with a cruise speed draw of 4A. Take off is only 10A. Golluk fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Aug 7, 2015 |
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Aug 7, 2015 17:00
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Awesome. I picked up 3 1300 45c's which is probably overkill as you mentioned. I could probably have gone for something which burst to cover and been okay. Was checking out some 1500s too, but in the end I settled for these. They'll probably be fine for getting me off the ground learning, and if I want to start squeezing flight time I'll just upgrade later on. Forgot to get a lipo bag but I can charge these on my balcony until I do so it's not a huge problem. Fire may not break out but since I'm still new at this and my apartment is 1BR that means pretty much most of my worldly possessions could go up if I don't do it right.
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Aug 7, 2015 17:55
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Bleh, the 700TVL from Fat Shark is a piece of crap that gets easily overwhelmed by mediocre bright daylight.
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Aug 7, 2015 18:01
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Martytoof posted:Awesome. I picked up 3 1300 45c's which is probably overkill as you mentioned. I could probably have gone for something which burst to cover and been okay. Was checking out some 1500s too, but in the end I settled for these. They'll probably be fine for getting me off the ground learning, and if I want to start squeezing flight time I'll just upgrade later on. I saw a cool setup that was 3 stacked plastic bins. The 1st and 3rd are filled with Salt/Sand and the batteries charge in the center bin. Any fire will melt the plastic, causing the battery to fall into sand, and then melt the bin above dumping more sand on top. The 3 plastic bins are stored in an old metal gym locker. EDIT: I was super paranoid when I started but I've started to trust the batteries I own now. I will NOT charge a brand new battery without sitting right beside it for the first ~5 charge cycles, after that I will let it go when I run out to the store or something. When I first started I would leave my Lipos outside on the stoop overnight if I discharged them too far  It's better to be paranoid rather than homeless.
bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Aug 7, 2015 |
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Aug 7, 2015 18:10
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Do LiPos blow up that often? I'm charging mine on top of an infrared cooking plate, and only when I'm physically at home. Friend of mine plugs his LiPos in, starts the charger and then leaves home.
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Aug 7, 2015 18:15
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Martytoof posted:Awesome. I picked up 3 1300 45c's which is probably overkill as you mentioned. I think it's about right. Mini-quads are not flown around like a regular plane, but are in general tossed about and will be suspect to rapid high accelerations, giving you a max amp draw. If the lipo isn't rated for, you will get a lot more voltage sag (less performance) and risk puffing the lipo.
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Aug 7, 2015 18:33
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On their own? It doesn't sound like it. The biggest risk seems to be when charging, or physically damaging them. I'll generally be in the room, or at least in the house, and only away for a few minutes. I charge them inside a Lipo bag to keep any flames/burning metal from spraying, and the bag inside a large ceramic pot for anything that did make it out of the bag. And that is all on a work table with a metal surface. My next biggest concern would be all the smoke if one did go. I'm sure that stuff is not healthy, and likely a PITA to clean up. With some care and a decent charger, the risk is low. But the potential costs of burning your house down, injury or death, means that small risk should be taken seriously. For the ratings, it can be common to fly at full throttle on a plane. I'd expect you'd only do near that in very extreme racing. Full throttle and my quads shooting up into the sky, and out of sight very quickly. Golluk fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Aug 7, 2015 |
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Aug 7, 2015 20:07
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In my (limited) experience so far, there's no such thing as "overkill" when choosing C ratings - at this point I just buy whatever the highest rating I can afford/find is. The lack of voltage sag alone makes it worth it. On my 35C batteries the voltage alarm is nothing but an annoyance because it goes off all the time. On my 60C batteries, the voltage alarm takes on a whole new meaning. It doesn't go off at all unless the battery is truly finished. When I hear it I know I have about 30 seconds to land, period.
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Aug 7, 2015 20:16
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Higher C means more battery weight is taken up by beefier anode, cathode, and wiring. But I do agree that for the most part you likely get that back in reduced Sag, and less thermal stress on the battery. Of course one guy on RCGroups who seems to have some dealings with battery producers says they are all made 30-50 different 3rd tier factories in china, with very limited testing and QC. And even first tier LiPo manufacturers like Panasonic can have 20% variation in performance. Golluk fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Aug 7, 2015 |
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Aug 7, 2015 20:41
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I was driving by a local hobby shop. I stopped in just to see if they had any LiPo bags or a LiFe battery for my 9X I walked out with a second 250 kit  To be fair this gives me a way to gently caress around with stuff without worrying about breaking my main rig. ESRAM, you're in Toronto right? Is there any fun open space to fly? I'm downtown so I can't think of anything that wouldn't get me in trouble or mobbed by kids or something. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Aug 8, 2015 |
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Aug 8, 2015 02:55
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Combat Pretzel posted:Friend of mine plugs his LiPos in, starts the charger and then leaves home. His home will be badly damaged or totally destroyed in a fire at some indeterminate point in the future.
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Aug 8, 2015 12:12
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I guessing this is the best place to ask, I'm planning on doing some cool automation stuff with model rockets. How much does wind and high dynamic pressure (traveling fast) affect the altimeter chips?
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Aug 8, 2015 13:31
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I'm toying with the idea to build a go-fast rig with maximum agility for its size, that can carry a little more load, like a fat 5000mah+ battery (for flight time) and eventually a front-mounted gimbal if I desire. I was thinking of a 350-400 class sort of drone, probably with 7 inch props and 4S battery and such. How does that sound? Too stupid of an idea? A friend of mine has some 350 class Walkera that appears to be able to haul some OK rear end, I'd like something in the similar size range, but faster. It's supposed to be an own-design drone. I have a friend that can do laser and water cuts at work for quasi free, whereas Hobbyking sells carbon tubes, clamps and motor mounts for cheap. As far as the 250 droning around goes, it's a nice rig to learn with, thanks to it being fidgety. I need to start spending time on training in rate mode, but it feels like it lacks the necessary punch due to 3S (I'm currently dicking around with these 5x3x3 props I bought for testing, still need to try the 6x3s I have here), and I also need to decide whether I want to bother with rate mode on the long term.
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Aug 8, 2015 15:45
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If you're trying to flash a Turnigy 9x, make loving sure you have soldered onto the right pins. Don't spend two hours trying to diagnose an AVR communication issue when you accidentally soldered RST to some unused pad and then expected it to work.
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Aug 8, 2015 17:05
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I know I have drone ADD but now I'm looking to build a tricopter for my first FPV setup. Any specific frames/kits that are recommended? Looking for something around 250mm or smaller (but not attached to that size) and I plan to race with this eventually.
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Aug 8, 2015 18:05
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Martytoof posted:I was driving by a local hobby shop. I like to fly at a little park near the distillery. Just my Latrax Alias and ~125mm quad,s nothing 3 cell. Bigger stuff I like to go down around Tommy Thomson park. The park itself is a No Motorized Vehicle zone but the strip of land from that park to the water treatment plant has some good areas. What hobby store did you go to? I'm looking for one that has multirotor stuff, the one I go to is all about nitro racing. Krittick posted:I know I have drone ADD but now I'm looking to build a tricopter for my first FPV setup. Any specific frames/kits that are recommended? Looking for something around 250mm or smaller (but not attached to that size) and I plan to race with this eventually. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Aug 8, 2015 |
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Aug 8, 2015 18:13
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Krittick posted:I know I have drone ADD but now I'm looking to build a tricopter for my first FPV setup. Any specific frames/kits that are recommended? Looking for something around 250mm or smaller (but not attached to that size) and I plan to race with this eventually. Armattan has a tri in that size, and rcexplorer is working on one. you could also try a v-tail or a-tail. armattan has a v-tail, and this wonky thing looks interesting: http://shendrones.myshopify.com/products/fast-forward moron izzard fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Aug 8, 2015 |
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Aug 8, 2015 18:14
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Armattan has a tri in that size, and rcexplorer is working on one. Will check those out, thanks! I'm also not 100% attached to 250 for size, so I'm open to other suggestions if there's a larger frame that's worth looking into.
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Aug 8, 2015 18:32
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Spookydonut posted:I guessing this is the best place to ask, I'm planning on doing some cool automation stuff with model rockets. Go home North Korea, we won't help you build guided missiles. Honestly not too sure, but I don't think it really affects them much being solid state. You might max out the reading though. Are you just looking for telemetry? Do something at X height, or actual flight control? Found the fix to my auto pilot problems. Worked flawlessly even in some high winds today. Not having yaw_I = 0 was my culprit, seems the rudder was trying to fight the auto pilot, and winning. With that working, pushed out to 2KM on 5.8 GHz, 200mW, clover VTx and 5 turn helical VRx. Some no names from Surveilzone. Not sure if I want to step up to some VAS stuff, or make the jump to 1.3 GHZ. Fairly happy with 1KM any direction, and 2KM in 90 degrees.
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Aug 8, 2015 19:02
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A Yolo Wizard posted:this wonky thing looks interesting: http://shendrones.myshopify.com/products/fast-forward That thing looks insane in absolutely all the right ways
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Aug 8, 2015 19:18
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Krittick posted:I know I have drone ADD but now I'm looking to build a tricopter for my first FPV setup. Any specific frames/kits that are recommended? Looking for something around 250mm or smaller (but not attached to that size) and I plan to race with this eventually. I flew an Armattan Morphling tricopter, now turning it into a quad as a tricopter tail can and will break every time you crash it, and in a 250 FPV multirotor you will be crashing it a lot.
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Aug 8, 2015 20:09
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Hmm, just sent one of my ESCs up in smoke. Can I mix and match ESC brands or should I aim to have them all the same? edit: Uhh, I know I saw magic smoke from one of them, but I just disassembled the quad and tested each one individually and they all seem to work. Is there any kind of in-depth test I can do? some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Aug 9, 2015 |
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Aug 8, 2015 22:54
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32MB OF ESRAM posted:What hobby store did you go to? I'm looking for one that has multirotor stuff, the one I go to is all about nitro racing. I went to Skycraft hobbies in Burlington since I was visiting my parents. I wouldn't say they had a TON of quad stuff -- they were more fixed wing focused. I was going to check out Rotorgeeks in North York but I can't tell if they actually have a storefront or if it's a website with a shipping location.
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Aug 8, 2015 22:56
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Golluk posted:Go home North Korea, we won't help you build guided missiles. Initially deploying the parachute at say 100m instead of after the engine cuts out leaving it to drift for miles. Then adding just straight telemetry logging, maybe some kind of live downlink. Then building a servo powered gimbal for vectored thrust using a gyro to keep it flying straight up.
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Aug 9, 2015 03:55
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Martytoof posted:Hmm, just sent one of my ESCs up in smoke. Could be the 5v regulator on the BEC portion of the ESC. Check each one's center lead for 5V to ground?
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Aug 9, 2015 09:38
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I'm just getting into the hobby after picking up the Hubsan X4 H107D (got it for £60, utter steal) and loving It, I really want to fly planes, would that $200 set with the Vapor and Fatsharks be a good first plane to go for? With import fees and whatnot it's almost £200 which is a fair amount of money but the goggles seem to be £180ish on their own anyway, so it's essentially a £20 plane to learn on. Is there a catch? Are the Goggles going to be something I keep using for along time or am I going to regret not saving the money and going for something else later?
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Aug 9, 2015 22:32
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There are better trainer planes. I've been practicing with an apprentice s15e. It has the SAFE system in it that you can toggle on/off (gyro, does angle limits and helps you in higher winds). flite test have shown some more in the past few weeks you could also just buy a sim
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Aug 9, 2015 23:47
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Got a lead on a used Phantom 2 Vision for $400 trying to figure out of that's a good deal or not.
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Aug 10, 2015 00:10
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A Yolo Wizard posted:There are better trainer planes. I've been practicing with an apprentice s15e. It has the SAFE system in it that you can toggle on/off (gyro, does angle limits and helps you in higher winds). flite test have shown some more in the past few weeks Yeah, I'm aware it's not like the best plane to learn on, It was just that it works out as essentially pay for the goggles and get a plane free because I found out after posting before, they have a the spend over 100 save 10% voucher going. I think I'm going to pick it up, I want the goggles and it's cheaper to get them this way than to buy a pair from a UK distributor.
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Aug 10, 2015 01:18
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Brinty posted:Is there a catch? Are the Goggles going to be something I keep using for along time or am I going to regret not saving the money and going for something else later? It depends on how far you want to take things. I've got the SPMVS1100 combo (just the Fat Shark Teleports, and VA1100 transmitter/camera). I'm happy with it, since all I do is short-range use of it - flying my quadcopter around in a clear area smaller than a soccer field. Flying when the sun is setting/rising does overwhelm the camera sensor and the range/resolution is pretty limited. It's pretty good for starting from nothing - especially if you just want a bundled package that gets you going in one shot. I could see a lot of people wanting more after a little while, after all, they are the entry level goggles. Check out this comparison to get an idea of the differences in the price points : https://www.facebook.com/169817899811978/photos/pcb.546737002120064/546736422120122/?type=1&theater
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Aug 10, 2015 01:57
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