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I've got a '90 325i which I plan on doing a clutch/bearing/seals replacement in the upcoming weeks. How likely is it that I'll be able to get all that done without access to a lift? Any sort of tips/tricks or things to look out for awhile doing all of this?
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Apr 3, 2010 15:37
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CornHolio posted:I hosed up and broke my E36. Next time read a DIY on e46fanatics or something before tackling a large project. Then you kind of know what to expect and any difficulties others faced.
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Apr 3, 2010 15:48
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Baram posted:I've got a '90 325i which I plan on doing a clutch/bearing/seals replacement in the upcoming weeks. How likely is it that I'll be able to get all that done without access to a lift? Any sort of tips/tricks or things to look out for awhile doing all of this? It can be done easily without a lift, you'll need a fair amount of tools though. This is what I needed in terms of wierd stuff (from memory, may be missing some) -doubles of common wrench sizes (10,13,17,19) -A big pipe wrench and channel locks for the driveshaft nut (if you have to collapse the splines) - there is a BMW special tool, don't waste your money -6 jackstands - four for supporting the car, 2 for pulling the exhaust. Later you'll need one to support the engine while you have the transmission mounts off (don't just let it fall against the firewall, I broke my radiator this way) -A flywheel locker (only if you are going to replace the crank seal). BMW has a special tool (Again, a ripoff). Drill 2 holes in a piece of wood and use it to prevent it from spinning. -Long extensions. I bought a pack of 18"/24"/32" ones. Combine them with the swivel extensions that only go 15 degrees or so. The U-joint type is worthless for removing the transmission, they will pop off over and over. -A transmission jack, or a strong friend. I pretty much used the Pelicanparts guide (see http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Clutch_Replace/E36-Clutch_Replace.htm). It's for an e36 but it's almost 95% the same, the only difference I found was the rear crankshaft seals were quite different. The main thing is to read, read, read and make sure you have all the parts you need. I had to get some iX specific parts and was weeks waiting for them to arrive, without a 2nd car I would have been stranded.
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Apr 3, 2010 16:03
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Firefox Asexual posted:Next time read a DIY on e46fanatics or something before tackling a large project. Then you kind of know what to expect and any difficulties others faced. My Bentley manual had the whole process as like six steps. It really didn't look difficult. Of course, I've got a number of handicaps, like no garage, limited tools, a daughter I have to have watched, no extra car, etc...
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Apr 3, 2010 16:10
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CornHolio posted:My Bentley manual had the whole process as like six steps. It really didn't look difficult. Of course, I've got a number of handicaps, like no garage, limited tools, a daughter I have to have watched, no extra car, etc... The Bentley manual tends to oversimplify things.
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Apr 3, 2010 17:34
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Found a more zoomed pic:
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Apr 3, 2010 18:14
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CornHolio posted:My Bentley manual had the whole process as like six steps. It really didn't look difficult. Of course, I've got a number of handicaps, like no garage, limited tools, a daughter I have to have watched, no extra car, etc... Control arms aren't difficult, and 6 steps was probably appropriate (I just replaced my thrust arms, same deal), but the most important thing that car manuals can't teach you is what to do when stuff goes wrong, breaks and/or won't come off due to rust and decades of wear. That's when DIY experience comes into play, and imo, it's what's "difficult" about working on a car - knowing what to do when stuff doesn't go as planned. In theory, everything is just "take the old thing off, put the new thing in, torque to spec", but something almost breaks or is stuck like a motherfucker. That's when you need to know all the tricks and alternative ways of getting the job done. Also, having access to a shop with a lift and the right tools is also golden. The Bentley manual is much better than the lovely Haynes, but it's always a good idea to search the internet and/or an enthusiast forum for guides before going at it yourself. 
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Apr 3, 2010 18:43
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Pilsner posted:
Yeah, the Pelican Parts tech info center gave it a 3/10 for difficulty. In theory it should be easy, but again I'd need access to better tools and the right lubricants and stuff. I wonder if it's safe to drive a mile or two to a shop, with the outer ball joint not nutted (but everything else somewhat secured)... thoughts?
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Apr 3, 2010 20:05
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revmoo posted:That picture actually helps a lot. But how the hell are you supposed to reach that with the manifold and all those hoses in the way? I'm jealous of your drat no front plate state. My girlfriend got a PARKING TICKET for no front plate in my car downtown a month ago. Ugh. Sketches me out to park at my buddys now. And my front plate was stolen shortly after I got the car, so I can't put it on... CornHolio posted:I wonder if it's safe to drive a mile or two to a shop, with the outer ball joint not nutted (but everything else somewhat secured)... thoughts?
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Apr 3, 2010 22:48
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SiGmA_X posted:it can really hurt you (ears, eyes, etc) Gasoline in my ears, auggghhh! Anyone know where I can find a diagram of the factory amp output for a '92 e34? Scosche's installers site doesn't seem to have it, and I found one for an e36 which is probably the same, but if anyone else can confirm that would be nice.
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Apr 3, 2010 23:58
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Lowclock posted:Gasoline in my ears, auggghhh! Google for the E34 ETM. Its there.
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Apr 4, 2010 00:22
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SiGmA_X posted:
What if I could get a normal, non-locking nut on the outer ball joint stud? The inner one is nutted, and the lollipop bracket/old bushing are bolted on. Would it be OK to drive it slowly for a few miles then? Just trying to avoid towing it, that's all.
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Apr 4, 2010 00:30
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CornHolio posted:What if I could get a normal, non-locking nut on the outer ball joint stud? The inner one is nutted, and the lollipop bracket/old bushing are bolted on. Would it be OK to drive it slowly for a few miles then?
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Apr 4, 2010 03:11
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SiGmA_X posted:That sounds fine. Better question is, why try avoiding it? AAA is cheap. I like their 200mi coverage for $143/yr. Its win. Y'know, I might have to look into that.
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Apr 4, 2010 03:39
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SiGmA_X posted:That sounds fine. Better question is, why try avoiding it? AAA is cheap. I like their 200mi coverage for $143/yr. Its win. If you work on a bunch of ill-advised projects all the time like I do, AAA with towing is pretty much mandatory. I'm pretty sure they heavily regret selling me that plan because I really get my money's worth.
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Apr 4, 2010 08:26
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I'm looking to get a 2008 335i convertible, but I noticed they are very rare. I am from NYC. Why are they virtually nowhere to be found?
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Apr 4, 2010 09:07
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ab0z posted:If you work on a bunch of ill-advised projects all the time like I do, AAA with towing is pretty much mandatory. I'm pretty sure they heavily regret selling me that plan because I really get my money's worth.
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Apr 4, 2010 09:36
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decaf.tihs posted:I'm looking to get a 2008 335i convertible, but I noticed they are very rare. I am from NYC. Why are they virtually nowhere to be found? Maybe not that many people bought $65k 3 series. Also the convertible 3 series is sold mostly to girls, and girls don't spring for the bigger engine. Most convertibles are probably the 328i. They are out there though.
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Apr 4, 2010 12:00
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ynotony posted:Maybe not that many people bought $65k 3 series. Also the convertible 3 series is sold mostly to girls, and girls don't spring for the bigger engine. Most convertibles are probably the 328i. They are out there though. But it's one of the few beamer hard tops. And I'm looking to buy a hard top after depreciation has set in, so the new rumored hard top M3 or 650is are out of the question. What's another good hard top to get that could actually resell?
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Apr 4, 2010 18:00
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gently caress. I just replaced the injectors on my '92, now a new problem has come up. I tried starting it up, and now it just sputters and dies, maybe gives a little backfire. If I hold the throttle open it will run for a little while until I close the throttle and it dies. Did the pedal test and 1215 came back, AFM. I just want to be sure that it wasn't something wrong with the injectors that caused the backfire and killed the AFM, or if the AFM just up and died coincidentally? Anyway to test for that or will I have to kill another AFM to find out? Edit: Backfire blew the hose that goes to the intake manifold off the ICV, reconnect, problem solved Now to figure out why it backfired. Doctor Grape Ape fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Apr 4, 2010 |
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Apr 4, 2010 18:07
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Ok so this is another plea for help on a problem ive had for a while. e36 m3. Every once and a while (no not at a certain speed and not just when braking) my wheel will shake. Its exactly as if I have a warped rotor but only on the front left wheel. This problem starts and stops at its own will. Ill drive it every day to and from work for a week, and it wont happen. But the next week one day, the same trip it will happen. And then go away after maybe 10 minutes. It has to be something with the brakes, because I can feel it tugging to the left and hear it groaning when I start off from a stop. I inspected the calipers one day after it happened, and the front left caliper was radiating ALOT of heat. I couldn't touch it for more than a second it was so hot. Its not as if the brake is locking up, it feels like its grabbing and letting go. Anyone have any idea?
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Apr 4, 2010 18:11
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Arwox posted:Ok so this is another plea for help on a problem ive had for a while. I'd pull off the caliper and very thoroughly clean it. The guide bolts are $4 a set at Autozone, replace them or sand the ones you have smooth. Make sure the bores that the guide bolts slide in are completely clean and degreased.
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Apr 4, 2010 19:04
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This is pretty neat. So far I have used it to reset error codes and airbag lights on my own E36, an E34 M5 and a Z3 2,8 Coupe. The included software is totally  , but it works.
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Apr 4, 2010 21:56
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Guys, is this too good to be true? 2009 BMW 335i Convertible, used for $43,900 http://tinyurl.com/ybltolc Gallery and easier bulleted list here (car #2): http://showroom.auction123.com/killer_carz_llc/index.html I may have fudged up on selecting the most relevant options here but even so the prices don't add up! 
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Apr 5, 2010 16:34
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evobatman posted:This is pretty neat. So far I have used it to reset error codes and airbag lights on my own E36, an E34 M5 and a Z3 2,8 Coupe. The included software is totally Did that one come with the OBD-II end? I bought one off eBay about a year ago that looked like the same interface box but it only came with the big round connector that is completely useless to me.
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Apr 5, 2010 16:59
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wolrah posted:Did that one come with the OBD-II end? I bought one off eBay about a year ago that looked like the same interface box but it only came with the big round connector that is completely useless to me. I'm also interested in this. I have the infamous airbag and engine service lights on and also some other codes are being thrown (o2 sensors) but it'd be nice to turn them off since they're annoying as all hell. E39 is listed on that page but I'm still a bit curious/cautious since it seems to be more for older vehicles.
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Apr 5, 2010 17:23
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I'm getting a little bit of clutch judder coming off a stop lately in my e46. I have 118K miles and from looking underneath the car, I think I'm on the original clutch. My TOB is making noise, but always has since I got the car at 114K. It's just a 'bearing goes around' noise instead of a 'poo poo's grinding' noise. The engagement is pretty high up off the floor, almost at full release. Am I making a case for a new clutch? Does anyone have a ballpark for how much a clutch job sets you back at the dealer? I don't trust myself to do something like this since it's my DD and I've never replaced a clutch, let alone a self-adjusting one.
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Apr 5, 2010 17:48
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wolrah posted:Did that one come with the OBD-II end? Yep, it's in the box. Still haven't tried it myself though. Also, the supplied software has lots of functions for E39 models. It even has some stuff for early E6x models and iDrive, up to 6/2004 I believe it says. Edit: Also scored a set of used 8*17" BBS RX204 with 215/45-17 Falken tires with plenty of rubber left for $300 today! Some guy got them on a car he bought once, and they had just been taking up space in his garage, so he decided to throw them on our local craigslist-variant just to get rid of them. I didn't even believe they were genuine BBS until I got them home and examined them! evobatman fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Apr 5, 2010 |
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Apr 5, 2010 20:21
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PurpleFender posted:I'm getting a little bit of clutch judder coming off a stop lately in my e46. I have 118K miles and from looking underneath the car, I think I'm on the original clutch. My TOB is making noise, but always has since I got the car at 114K. It's just a 'bearing goes around' noise instead of a 'poo poo's grinding' noise. The engagement is pretty high up off the floor, almost at full release. Am I making a case for a new clutch? Does anyone have a ballpark for how much a clutch job sets you back at the dealer? I don't trust myself to do something like this since it's my DD and I've never replaced a clutch, let alone a self-adjusting one. Ever since I got my e46 at 70k (now have 96k), I've always had a noise which I think is my TOB, exact thing you're describing.. Only hear it when I press the clutch pedal in. The clutch itself though still seems to be holding strong. I also have had a high catch point, and my last mechanic told me it's a sign of the clutch "about to fail"... now I am new to self adjusting clutches, so I know poo poo about them. Does this mean the adjustment takes place where my catch point will be in the same place? I've Googled it, but it still seems pretty vague to me. Fermunky fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Apr 5, 2010 |
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Apr 5, 2010 20:40
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evobatman posted:Edit: Also scored a set of used 8*17" BBS RX204 with 215/45-17 Falken tires with plenty of rubber left for $300 today! Some guy got them on a car he bought once, and they had just been taking up space in his garage, so he decided to throw them on our local craigslist-variant just to get rid of them. I didn't even believe they were genuine BBS until I got them home and examined them! Nice score. Pictures?
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Apr 5, 2010 20:58
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Nice score. Pictures? Will take some tomorrow if the weather allows putting them on the car, right now I'm rocking 15" steelies with hubcaps.
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Apr 5, 2010 21:23
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Fermunky posted:Ever since I got my e46 at 70k (now have 96k), I've always had a noise which I think is my TOB, exact thing you're describing.. Only hear it when I press the clutch pedal in. The clutch itself though still seems to be holding strong. I also have had a high catch point, and my last mechanic told me it's a sign of the clutch "about to fail"... now I am new to self adjusting clutches, so I know poo poo about them. Does this mean the adjustment takes place where my catch point will be in the same place? I've Googled it, but it still seems pretty vague to me. As I've read, the SAC basically will adjust its takeup in order to keep the engagement point at the same spot in pedal travel regardless of wear. AFAIK the only way to tell if the clutch is going out on a SAC is if it slips. Sachs has a really awesome pdf on their website that describes how they work with diagrams and everything. I'll be hosed if I can understand most of it though. It's 11MB so I'm not gonna host it. PM or email if you want it. About the engagement point... I've been bullshitted on both sides about where in the travel the clutch is going out at. I've had a BMW tech say that close to the floor=failure. I've had forum guys say that close to the top=failure. Nobody seems to know poo poo about how these self-adjusting clutches work 
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Apr 5, 2010 22:19
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Just did the fuel filter on my early E36 today. Hoooooly poo poo that was a tough job.
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Apr 5, 2010 23:31
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evobatman posted:This is pretty neat. So far I have used it to reset error codes and airbag lights on my own E36, an E34 M5 and a Z3 2,8 Coupe. The included software is totally Wow, I can't believe they ship free worldwide (Europe). I'm definitely going to order that and try it out on my E34, if anything just to play with it, since it's so darn cheap. Thanks for the find!
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Apr 5, 2010 23:50
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revmoo posted:Just did the fuel filter on my early E36 today. huh. On my late E36 it was a breeze. Where did they move it from that it was so bad?
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Apr 6, 2010 00:55
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It's basically under the intake manifold between the left motor mount and the block. From the looks of things, the steering guibo is EASIER to access than the fuel filter.
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Apr 6, 2010 01:16
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Arwox posted:Ok so this is another plea for help on a problem ive had for a while. Sounds like something in the brakes binding up or a sticking piston/hanging pad. Are the pads worn evenly inboard/outboard and left side/right side?
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Apr 6, 2010 01:47
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Pilsner posted:Wow, I can't believe they ship free worldwide (Europe). I'm definitely going to order that and try it out on my E34, if anything just to play with it, since it's so darn cheap. I have this as well, although my interface box looks a bit different (mine has 4 LEDs on it, IIRC). Mine has the giant round cable as well as the OBD-II interface. I think I paid ~$65 on Ebay for it last year. The software is hilarious, it's on a burned mini-CDR with no markings except for a small cartoon panda graphic. I was able to pull a few things out of my E31 with it, but it seemed to have trouble communicating with some of the computers in my car for some reason. I was able to pull / reset some stored codes and reset the service interval light with it, anyway. You will need a laptop with a serial port though - I don't think the interface will work with a USB==>serial converter. It may work with a serial adapter card in a PCMCIA slot, but I haven't tried it.
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Apr 6, 2010 05:35
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Has anyone replaced the oil-filter-housing-to-pressure-sensor gasket on an M50 engine? Mine is leaking and after yesterday's time at an extreme angle on the berm, it looks like the flow has increased a little bit. I want to get it taken care of when I change my oil in a week or two. Are there any surprises I should be looking out for?
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Apr 6, 2010 06:36
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McMadCow posted:Has anyone replaced the oil-filter-housing-to-pressure-sensor gasket on an M50 engine? Mine is leaking and after yesterday's time at an extreme angle on the berm, it looks like the flow has increased a little bit. I want to get it taken care of when I change my oil in a week or two. Are there any surprises I should be looking out for? It doesn't really get any more straight forward. 3 little screws and it comes off. The back one closest to the block is kind of weird to get to, but it's not that bad. That leak was making a loving mess of my engine bay and I wish I did it sooner for how easy it was.
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Apr 6, 2010 06:43
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