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My brake light isn't turning on unless I almost floor the brake pedal. I replaced the switch last year and never really noticed this until about a month ago. I think a bolt fell of some time ago but I believe if it were that, it would either be loose completely or not turn on at all. Is there some adjustment to this switch? '90 YJ 4.2L, thanks!
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Jun 24, 2011 08:17
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Shroomie posted:Welded up some super ghetto tube doors for my buddies Cherokee today: This is awesome. Tell me they're detachable.
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Jun 24, 2011 15:02
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Steiler Drep posted:My brake light isn't turning on unless I almost floor the brake pedal. I replaced the switch last year and never really noticed this until about a month ago. I think a bolt fell of some time ago but I believe if it were that, it would either be loose completely or not turn on at all. Is there some adjustment to this switch? '90 YJ 4.2L, thanks! I think a '90 should use the ratcheting brake switches but don't hold me to that. If it does, adjustment is to pull the brake pedal as far toward you as you can. Plunger ratchets outward to close the gap, brake lights should resume working.
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Jun 24, 2011 17:09
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commissargribb posted:This is awesome. Tell me they're detachable. If you've got a ratchet with a T45 bit they are.
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Jun 24, 2011 17:44
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Shroomie posted:If you've got a ratchet with a T45 bit they are. I'm a jeep owner - I have like 10 I hate torx bits. When possible, I replace them with hex bolts Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Jun 24, 2011 |
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Jun 24, 2011 20:06
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commissargribb posted:I'm a jeep owner - I have like 10  (roommate) (me walking out of garage with breaker bar) the hell is that? the most efficient, most reliable means of stripping torx bolts known to man
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Jun 24, 2011 23:38
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Someone told me torx was designed to be unstrippable. I can even admit that I have never managed to strip one myself. That being said, if I find the guy who invented them I'm going to set him on fire. Edit: Also, Ethanol -- I dunno whether the mechanic was trying to gently caress you over or not, but if the ring and pinion gears are busted then your best bet is to replace the whole axle -- the expense of replacing those parts in an existing D35 is just ridiculous. But if you're going to do all that, you'd be doing yourself a huge disservice if you didn't get your D30 front axle regeared. The D30 is pretty tough and as long as you don't do real hardcore wheeling it'll hold up just fine. With 32" tires you can get away with 3.73 but I'd go with 4.10 so you can go bigger if you want. On 32s with 4.10s you'll feel like there's a a big V8 in there in city driving. Clamwacker fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Jun 25, 2011 |
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Jun 25, 2011 01:42
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Clamwacker posted:Someone told me torx was designed to be unstrippable. Someone told me (I'm pretty sure I read it in a haynes manual) that torx bits are meant to inhibit "unauthorized" people from working on vehicles. The idea goes that only high end shops with special training would have the special bits to remove torx. Of course this just meant that anyone who knew just enough about their vehicle to severely gently caress it up (like me) would make sure to have a set on hand.
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Jun 25, 2011 03:28
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I've witnessed a Torx bolt strip a Torx bit. I don't know what size, but it was about the middle of a Craftsman set. He turned the wrench and the bit just shattered.
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Jun 25, 2011 05:03
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There are lots of engineers out there that I want to stab, and whoever invented Torx is towards the top of the list. I have managed to strip both the bits and the bolts on multiple occasions. Granted most of those can be attributed to cheap tools and using the wrong size, but my ratio of stripped hex to stripped torx is way out of wack. Edit: Here's a really blurry picture where you can see the slide-bolt we're using as a door latch on the Chero: 
Shroomie fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Jun 25, 2011 |
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Jun 25, 2011 05:39
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Shroomie posted:There are lots of engineers out there that I want to stab, and whoever invented Torx is towards the top of the list. Needs cupholders!
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Jun 25, 2011 07:11
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commissargribb posted:Someone told me (I'm pretty sure I read it in a haynes manual) that torx bits are meant to inhibit "unauthorized" people from working on vehicles. The idea goes that only high end shops with special training would have the special bits to remove torx. That couldn't be more wrong and whoever published that needs to have their fingers hammered in a vice. Torx was designed to prevent the driver from camming out. You have to be straight on to achieve this, but that's the main issue with them: if you're under a Jeep sometimes you can't get a good shot at them. Cheap Harbor Freight bits will break the first time you put serious torque on them, but that's not the fault of the Torx design, but the poo poo metal used in those bits.
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Jun 25, 2011 07:18
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Craftsman bit I mentioned a few posts up was brand new and exploded without anything like a cheater bar, just a regular ratchet and a stiff bolt
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Jun 25, 2011 08:07
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Torx bits are far more resistant to stripping or camming out than other internal-wrenching interfaces. Compare them to a hex key, for instance. It's not really fair to compare them to the external-wrenching hexes or 12pts, they're meant for when you need (or want) a nice button, countersunk or cap head.Faerunner posted:Craftsman bit I mentioned a few posts up was brand new and exploded without anything like a cheater bar, just a regular ratchet and a stiff bolt
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Jun 25, 2011 09:38
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I wish you could get affordable e-torx bolts at the hardware store. I would seriously replace everything with them.
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Jun 25, 2011 10:30
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I'm considering buying an off-road capable vehicle for muddy/snowy terrain when I'm out of the city. A relatively beaten-up but also cheap Grand Cherokee caught my eye and I'll be taking a look at it next week. What should I keep an eye out for? I have never owned a Jeep and I don't know much about what the problematic aspects might be. It's a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited (ZJ) with a 4.0 I6 153 kW gasoline engine. Automatic gearbox, Quadra-trac drive. It has been lifted 40mm. Mileage unknown (I forgot to ask). The owner wrote that the center diff has a worn chain (I'm not sure why exactly he thinks that, will check about specific symptoms) and a leaking seal of some sort. The rear springs and shocks also supposedly need to be replaced. The car has obviously seen a good deal of off-road use. That's good news for me, since it means I need to pay less becuase of the scratched up and modified body! I don't care about the looks, I want something that'll take me through mud and snow. What should I check specifically? I have never owned a Jeep or off-road vehicle, so consider me completely lacking in common sense 
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Jun 25, 2011 14:49
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EssOEss posted:I'm considering buying an off-road capable vehicle for muddy/snowy terrain when I'm out of the city. A relatively beaten-up but also cheap Grand Cherokee caught my eye and I'll be taking a look at it next week. I may be wrong on this but you should confirm that it sees regular 4WD engagement. I *think* that one has the explodey bit in the transfer case. Other than that the I6 is pretty much unkillable.
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Jun 25, 2011 15:14
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Sponge! posted:I may be wrong on this but you should confirm that it sees regular 4WD engagement. I *think* that one has the explodey bit in the transfer case. Other than that the I6 is pretty much unkillable. 1) you will be unable to turn the wheel for poo poo 2) the wheels will begin hopping, you'll feel it happening 3) you'll hear a whole bunch of strange noise coming from the front end. If you notice no difference it probably isn't engaging. You can jack up the rear while it is off and figure it out by trying to turn a wheel. Not sure what exactly should happen, but it will be different results if it is in 4wd than if it is in 2wd. Someone else can probably tell you exactly how the wheels should turn.
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Jun 25, 2011 16:44
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InitialDave posted:... they're meant for when you need (or want) a nice button, countersunk or cap head. I'm most inclined to believe this. I've never seen a torx on my YJ that was at a strange angle or underneath. Most of the torx on my Wrangler were attached to the visible portion of the body such as hood/windshield/door hinges and connecting the roll bars/dash components. most of the parts under the hood are SAE hex head: transmission, engine, carb, fuel pump... etc etc. Sponge! posted:Needs cupholders! See the cupholders I "made" for my wrangler. 6 dollar cup holder + a bolt holding it to the console.
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Jun 25, 2011 21:23
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commissargribb posted:See the cupholders I "made" for my wrangler. 6 dollar cup holder + a bolt holding it to the console. I was thinking the tie wire used to hold the fence to the posts would be appropriate... Way to outclass me...
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Jun 25, 2011 21:41
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commissargribb posted:See the cupholders I "made" for my wrangler. 6 dollar cup holder + a bolt holding it to the console. My dad bolts a boat cupholder (the kind that's able to swing and rotate so it doesn't spill) to the dash of every truck he buys.
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Jun 25, 2011 21:42
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Shroomie posted:My dad bolts a boat cupholder (the kind that's able to swing and rotate so it doesn't spill) to the dash of every truck he buys. That's pretty awesome.
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Jun 27, 2011 01:17
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Shroomie posted:My dad bolts a boat cupholder (the kind that's able to swing and rotate so it doesn't spill) to the dash of every truck he buys. Maybe your dad owned my Jeep at one time? It has a "Bar Buoy" installed... it's pretty sweet. Did he ever own a white Cherokee? One thing that sucks more than torx is those drat shackle bolts where the nut is welded and covered in a box of metal. I tried to go up 2" yesterday and had to install the shackles. One side I got out (with the help of a 5 pound sledge and lots of elbow grease, still sore) and the other my friend broke the weld on. I used PB Blaster back on the nut because there are little 'port holes' big enough to stick the straw back there. I used it for a few days before hand and still broke one weld on the first twist (may have been broken already) so I just said "gently caress IT!" many many times. May have thrown a wrench as well. Either way, now my front is lifted 2" and the back is stock. I'm just going to save up and buy a rear leaf kit, and just leave the top shackle bolts the hell alone.
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Jun 27, 2011 04:36
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Jeep was running perfectly for a while. Plenty of oomph, nothing suggesting there was a problem brewing. Then this morning I took off to meet a fellow Goon at a local park to do some running, and less than half-way there it started smoking and the coolant light came on. Popped the hood, the coolant had sprayed all over, everything was soaked, so I called my fiance to come out and take a look/bring some coolant. The oil isn't coolant-y, and the coolant isn't any more oily than it was before (The previous engine had a bit of an issue (and then it seized up) but this one, up until recently, had been perfectly fine), which is to say it looks like there's a few drops of oil across the entirety of the coolant. Anyhow, he tells me to drive it carefully back home and to hell with going for a run because Jeep explode is slightly more important, and so I did. About a minute from home it started smoking again, so I babied it the rest of the way, he had gone around a corner just before it started smoking so he didn't see it but it looked like the Jeep was riding in a cloud. I parked and popped the hood, we could hear something hissing even before the hood was popped. So, here's a video of about a minute after we popped the hood. He took it with his phone so it's uploaded to his YouTube account. Turn your head to the left for the proper angle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1j0ZcL6STg If you watch it to the end we were talking, him "being right" was his theory that it's likely the head gasket with our luck, and I'm hoping we're not and it's some other issue. Also it seems like the coolant isn't properly getting around, could it just be the water pump causing all that? I'm really not mechanically inclined and he's not that familiar with the Jeep despite how much he's worked on it in the 3.5 years we've owned it. Any other ideas? We're kind of "Poor as balls" right now so just taking it to a shop really isn't a possibility. I'm thinking of crossposting this to the AI Stupid Question Thread if that's okay.
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Jun 27, 2011 12:42
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That looks like a lot of steam/smoke for it to be the head gasket, but I could certainly be wrong since Jeeps never stop amazing me. If I had to make some quick guesses other than the head gasket I would say maybe a freeze plug rotted open and the coolant is spraying on something hot and steaming off. If the radiator cap is old and not keeping proper pressure it can cause the coolant to boil inside the system which will eventually blow a hole pretty much anywhere, but usually the hoses. I think I am going to flush my cooling system today, these kind of problems are contagious. owls or something fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Jun 27, 2011 |
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Jun 27, 2011 15:11
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I didn't watch the video since I am at work, but could it be as easy as a pinhole in a hose?
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Jun 27, 2011 19:32
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adorai posted:I didn't watch the video since I am at work, but could it be as easy as a pinhole in a hose? It could be but we didn't look that closely because my fiance had to get back to sleep (He works nights and had JUST gone to sleep when I called him) and I'd rather not break his precious without him nearby if I did something wrong to it.
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Jun 27, 2011 19:44
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Faerunner posted:It could be but we didn't look that closely because my fiance had to get back to sleep (He works nights and had JUST gone to sleep when I called him) and I'd rather not break his precious without him nearby if I did something wrong to it. Poke around the vacuum gordian knot with an unlit propane torch, if it revs, you've found a leak.
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Jun 27, 2011 19:50
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Sponge! posted:Poke around the vacuum gordian knot with an unlit propane torch, if it revs, you've found a leak. But... the problem is a coolant leak, how would a vacuum leak have anything to do with that?
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Jun 27, 2011 21:41
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Faerunner posted:But... the problem is a coolant leak, how would a vacuum leak have anything to do with that?  on my part...
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Jun 27, 2011 21:48
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should be easy to figure out the source of the trouble. Make sure it is topped up on coolant, open the hood, and let it idle until you see moisture appear.
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Jun 27, 2011 22:59
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I'm going to look at this Jeep on wendesday. http://www.newsmyrnacjd.com/used/Jeep/2007-Jeep-Wrangler-abfe068a0a0d048d00e229bee02035b0.htm What should I be looking for in a modified Jeep such as this one as far as good mods and whatnot?
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Jun 27, 2011 23:34
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mattfl posted:I'm going to look at this Jeep on wendesday. No upholstery? Looks like the PO saved you some time. on a lifted vehicle you should be sure that the lift was done properly. An improperly installed lift can cause horrible wobbling in the wheels to start up. Also make sure the laws in your area governing tire size allow tires to get that big. In maine, this vehicle would be a no-go simply because the treaded portion of the tire sticks out past the fender flares for example.
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Jun 28, 2011 00:52
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commissargribb posted:No upholstery? Looks like the PO saved you some time. I live in florida, those tires are pretty small compared to some of the redneck trucks around here. Thanks for the tips. I'll be sure to give it a good test drive when I go look at it
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Jun 28, 2011 01:37
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I just had my 2000 TJ stolen. If any South Texas goons see this Jeep please call the police:
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Jun 29, 2011 04:01
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That blows. You should post it on Pirate and any local offroad forums.
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Jun 29, 2011 05:01
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I'm almost ready to try replacing the leaking evaporator in my 98 XJ. Am I to understand that the dryer everyone says I need to replace is the desiccant bag built into the accumulator, meaning that I need to replace the accumulator once I open the system? Is there anything else that I should be replacing while I have everything apart? The heater core still blows incredibly hot but for years my dad's very sensitive nose has been picking up a coolant smell when the heater is running.
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Jun 29, 2011 10:01
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Fitted a 2.5" Frankenlift (OME Springs all around, Custom Doetsch shocks/struts) on my KJ over the weekend. Short-ish (yet expensive) list left to do get this thing to become a respectable Jeep: 1. Running boards next to come off and get replaced with proper sliders 1.5 Hi-lift jack 2. Cragar Soft 8's and 245/75/16 Tires 3. Front Recovery Points with D- Rings 4. IPF lights on the brushbar 5. Detroit True Trac in the Rear She got a woman's name about 6 months after I bought her, meet Charlene:
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Jun 30, 2011 19:12
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Hey dudes, can I join your Jeep club? I just got my first Jeep two weeks ago and it is awesome! It's a '97 TJ 2.5L with a 4" rough country lift and 33" Mud Claws. I had to do a little maintenance on it when I first got it but it's doing good now. It needed a new power steering pump and distributor.  Also, I can join in the frustration of the stripped torx bolts. I am installing a SWAG drop down tailgate conversion right now and the first hinge bolt shattered my bit last night, I ended up only wrenching out three of the eight bolts. The rest I drilled out.
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Jun 30, 2011 22:38
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I hate torx bolts. 
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Jun 30, 2011 22:49
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