|
Snagged a 97 black 850R today with ~180K for 1100. Apparently the speed sensor in the transmission is hitting gears or something. Sounds gnarly (in a bad way) if I stomp on the gas. Besides the transmission, it's got a lot of blow-by and had been sitting since roughyl March as far as I could tell. Dirty as hell. The good - the interior is in fantastic shape and all the bits and pieces are there. The dash is in the best shape I've seen for an 850R of it's age. No creaks, groans or anything from the suspension or interior. Kind of amazing. Besides that, it's got a 19T turbo, MSD ignition, full 3" exhaust and some sort of tune. Oh, and BBS wheels, conti extreme contacts w/ tons of tread and a big ol box of new OEM maitenance parts. The guy even gave me his boost leak tester, something I've been meaning to make. My buddy heard about the car through a mutual friend who autocrosses his 850R - the seller has a nice Miata that he autocrosses, I believe. Just washed it off and the paint definitely needs some love. Some bubbling clearcoat and a lot of scratches. Regardless, I feel like I got one hell of a deal. Time for another manual swap.
|
# ? May 10, 2015 01:44 |
|
|
# ? Jun 12, 2024 17:35 |
|
I craigslisted V70R out of curiousity: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/5007419226.html Just confused.... wasnt V70R from 2003 onwards?
|
# ? May 10, 2015 21:19 |
|
Progression Please posted:I craigslisted V70R out of curiousity: No... there were 98-2000 Rs. I had a 98 V70R for a while.
|
# ? May 11, 2015 02:45 |
|
goobernoodles posted:Snagged a 97 black 850R today with ~180K for 1100. Apparently the speed sensor in the transmission is hitting gears or something. Sounds gnarly (in a bad way) if I stomp on the gas. Besides the transmission, it's got a lot of blow-by and had been sitting since roughyl March as far as I could tell. Dirty as hell. Congrats - red car is yours too, right? I love the wheel/color combo.
|
# ? May 11, 2015 14:34 |
|
blk posted:Congrats - red car is yours too, right? I love the wheel/color combo. ...and now I have a blue one too.
|
# ? May 13, 2015 06:17 |
|
Oh gently caress you, that's my favorite Volvo color. I'm seriously considering painting my C70 that color. Where did you find it and are you considering flipping it?
|
# ? May 13, 2015 06:49 |
|
goobernoodles posted:Yep. we are now either best R friends or mortal R enemies
|
# ? May 13, 2015 09:05 |
|
I found a V70R just the way I want it - dark blue, tan interior, stick, 90k miles, looks extremely well kept with a new clutch. 17k I should just keep the Focus ST, right? Talk me out of this poo poo.
|
# ? May 14, 2015 23:24 |
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I found a V70R just the way I want it - dark blue, tan interior, stick, 90k miles, looks extremely well kept with a new clutch. Hell no...buy that sucker..
|
# ? May 15, 2015 01:59 |
|
After you talk them down about 5 grand. The prices have dropped out on these things. 04s with 120k miles are going for $10k or less all day long.
|
# ? May 15, 2015 04:34 |
|
LloydDobler posted:After you talk them down about 5 grand. The prices have dropped out on these things. 04s with 120k miles are going for $10k or less all day long. Yeah price seemed pretty high. It's an 07 and I would pay a bit of a premium for overall age and a new clutch... but I was thinking more like 14k as reasonable.
|
# ? May 15, 2015 13:09 |
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Yeah price seemed pretty high. It's an 07 and I would pay a bit of a premium for overall age and a new clutch... but I was thinking more like 14k as reasonable. I'm at 162 on the factory clutch, so I'd be a little wary that it's already been swapped. 90k isn't 30k though, so maybe it's fine. It'll need a tbelt in the next 10k miles too, a grand if you include water pump (not required until the second tbelt change but hey, if you already have it all apart, why not). 17k is stupid money though, decent examples might fetch as high as 11 or 12 but that's it. 07 was the last year, so it's the 'newest' you'll find one, but even then it's a 7+ year old used car. At 11k, I'd really consider it. At 17k I'd laugh.
|
# ? May 15, 2015 15:58 |
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Yeah price seemed pretty high. It's an 07 and I would pay a bit of a premium for overall age and a new clutch... but I was thinking more like 14k as reasonable. Yeah if it's exactly what you want, 14 is justifiable. Go beat on them as hard as you can and see if they budge. If so get it. Also the timing belt isn't terribly hard on these cars so if you DIY with water pump, idler, tensioner, serp belt and its tensioner, even with OEM parts it's under $300.
|
# ? May 15, 2015 17:12 |
|
Hmm
|
# ? May 16, 2015 19:53 |
|
The sways are worth almost a third of the asking price alone!
|
# ? May 16, 2015 23:57 |
|
mafoose posted:The sways are worth almost a third of the asking price alone! How much does the 28mm bar usually go for? I've heard they're impossible to find because iPd only did short runs of them.
|
# ? May 17, 2015 07:36 |
|
My 2002 V70 has a clunking noise upon front spring extension. I believe this is a busted spring seat from what I've read. If I'm doing those, I might as well get new front shocks since those seem pretty worn. Do I need to buy new strut bearings as well, or can I skimp on those?
|
# ? May 18, 2015 15:35 |
|
I'd buy them from somewhere with a liberal return policy, and then if you find yours feel really smooth or something, return them. You probably need them though.
|
# ? May 18, 2015 19:38 |
|
Good idea. I would hate to have to do the work twice. I guess I'll order the stuff I know I'll need for cheapness and buy the maybe-stuff locally for convenient return if not needed. I'm doing wheel bearings and brake rotors too so it's adding up. I might as well ask about this: My keyfob only activates the car (locks/lights) after exactly three button clicks in a row when I'm within what I consider reasonable keyfob range. The third button I press decides what happens whether it's the same button all three times or not. Battery has been replaced. Does anyone know what might be up with this?
|
# ? May 18, 2015 23:32 |
|
atomicthumbs posted:How much does the 28mm bar usually go for? I've heard they're impossible to find because iPd only did short runs of them. That bar alone would probably fetch 200-300$. Honestly that's way too much bar, sell it and buy some good shocks and springs.
|
# ? May 19, 2015 04:56 |
|
I bought this 2005 S60 I posted about a few pages back. Seems to mostly be in good shape and drives nice, but a couple days after starting to drive it, I got a few codes and MIL popped on. Codes are 640D Turbo Control/Turbo signal low (P2281 OBD), and 216D/21E0 Long term fuel stuck lean (P2188 OBD) Also translates as Adaptive Heated O2 faulty signal. These are unfamiliar to me. Google yields very little, especially anything with successful fixes. Where do I even start?
|
# ? May 26, 2015 03:27 |
|
Alright, I'm having trouble locating the spot for the headlight relay on the Volvo 960 station wagon. I was advised to order this part: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-headlight-relay-850-960-c70-s70-v70-s90-v70-stribel-3523200 I've googled it and I can't seem to locate the spot where the relay goes. Could anyone help me out with this, please? I am not good at cars.
|
# ? May 27, 2015 02:05 |
|
It's behind the ashtray in the center console below the stereo. Not sure if you have to pull the driver's or passenger footwell trim to get to it, but that's where it is.
|
# ? May 27, 2015 18:25 |
|
Pictures don't do it justice, but I picked up a one owner, garage kept 245 DL yesterday!
|
# ? Jun 4, 2015 17:22 |
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Where do I even start?
|
# ? Jun 4, 2015 17:26 |
|
My best friend is looking for a newer car and I turned him on to a very nice 2007 S60R in the Austin area, he's going to go check it out tomorrow and wants to know of a reputable Volvo shop in the area, does anyone have suggestions? (I don't live in Austin)
|
# ? Jun 13, 2015 06:57 |
|
There are a lot of Turbobricks folks in Austin so if no one comes up with anything here that might be a good place to ask. I hate to recommend stuff I found on the Internet that I have no personal experience with, but Capital V-Connection has rave Google and Yelp reviews, so they might be worth looking into.
|
# ? Jun 13, 2015 18:46 |
|
I was considering upgrading all my suspension bits in my V70R at once along with the sway bars (and transmission fix), since there's a sale on at iPd. I thought, "well, it's got 184,000 miles on it; those front struts are probably pretty close to done, right? I might as well get a set of Konis, right?" Then I remembered to check the maintenance spreadsheet. quote:163,000: New Bilstein TC front struts, IPD HD spring seats, OEM shock mounts, dust boots
|
# ? Jun 14, 2015 04:43 |
|
atomicthumbs posted:I was considering upgrading all my suspension bits in my V70R at once along with the sway bars (and transmission fix), since there's a sale on at iPd. I thought, "well, it's got 184,000 miles on it; those front struts are probably pretty close to done, right? I might as well get a set of Konis, right?" You have a V70R and it doesn't have 4C suspension?
|
# ? Jun 14, 2015 16:12 |
|
It's a 1998 box style R, so no 4C. (Time for the worlds first DIY retrofit, thumbs!)
|
# ? Jun 14, 2015 19:48 |
|
Sounds like you're saving yourself quite a bit if it was already done at 163,000...but if you're thinking you need suspension work, maybe take advantage of the sale to buy sway bars, strut bar, HD end links, engine mounts, etc. I had a 98 R at one point and had the strut bar on it, helped stiffen it up.
|
# ? Jun 14, 2015 20:49 |
|
Oxphocker posted:Sounds like you're saving yourself quite a bit if it was already done at 163,000...but if you're thinking you need suspension work, maybe take advantage of the sale to buy sway bars, strut bar, HD end links, engine mounts, etc. I had a 98 R at one point and had the strut bar on it, helped stiffen it up. The suspension work, in this case, is having my mechanic install the sway bar while he's got the subframe dropped to fix the transmission seal. Couldn't find any used AWD sway bars so I just bought the set on sale (with HD end links) from IPD.
|
# ? Jun 14, 2015 21:20 |
|
Does anyone know about how much it costs to get the A/C compressor clutch fixed in a 97 Volvo V90? edit: called a local place in Phoenix (Tanner Motors) and they said $700 *throws up* Big Bowie Bonanza fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jun 17, 2015 |
# ? Jun 17, 2015 00:21 |
|
try calling an automotive A/C repair place instead?
|
# ? Jun 17, 2015 01:16 |
|
FordPRefectLL posted:Does anyone know about how much it costs to get the A/C compressor clutch fixed in a 97 Volvo V90? If you're sure it's just the clutch, you can probably shim it and make it work again by yourself. Some guys actually use the plastic clips that hold bread closed as shims. Search for "Volvo ac clutch shim" or some variation of that, you should get a few hits that tell you how to shim it. It's worth a try anyway, basically free.
|
# ? Jun 17, 2015 06:35 |
|
LloydDobler posted:If you're sure it's just the clutch, you can probably shim it and make it work again by yourself. Some guys actually use the plastic clips that hold bread closed as shims. I did it on my 98 s70 and it was about 1 hr on my back under the car and I did it with loving zip ties. poo poo works though. When I have to do it again I'll see if my shade tree mechanic will let me rent his lift. I'm going to murder this car
|
# ? Jun 17, 2015 11:24 |
|
So I asked this before but never got a response, gonna give it another shot. Where's the best place to buy a new-ish engine for my 1996 855 Turbo? I'm going to have a shop do the install because most places require a pro shop do the work to honor the warranty, so should I let the shop source the engine instead? A lot of the engines I have found for sale do not come with turbochargers attached, and given what I know about this car's history (many POs, poorly maintained, beat on) I'd like to buy an engine that comes as a complete unit, with all major accessories. I don't trust the original turbo any farther than I can throw it after seeing what the inside of this engine looked like. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Jun 22, 2015 |
# ? Jun 22, 2015 06:09 |
|
The main Volvo breakers nationwide are Erie vo-vo (Pennsylvania) and V and S auto dismantlers (California). Either one will warranty the motor and you can even haggle a bit. You can ask if it comes with the turbo or not and probably ask that it does, they're very easy to work with. I'd just go with whichever is closer to you. Strandberg auto also does a lot of Volvo wrecking, they're in Wisconsin. I've bought from all 3 in the past. Otherwise try the swedespeed classifieds for people parting out cars close to you, where they can vouch for the car or you can inspect the engine beforehand.
|
# ? Jun 22, 2015 19:25 |
|
LloydDobler posted:The main Volvo breakers nationwide are Erie vo-vo (Pennsylvania) and V and S auto dismantlers (California). Either one will warranty the motor and you can even haggle a bit. You can ask if it comes with the turbo or not and probably ask that it does, they're very easy to work with. I'd just go with whichever is closer to you. Strandberg auto also does a lot of Volvo wrecking, they're in Wisconsin. I've bought from all 3 in the past. Thanks for the response, I figured you'd be the one with the answers Erie has an engine with 110k for $1500 and V and S has a 150k one for 1200, gonna double check the local yards again before I jump on one of those.
|
# ? Jun 22, 2015 22:21 |
|
|
# ? Jun 12, 2024 17:35 |
|
Terrible Robot posted:Thanks for the response, I figured you'd be the one with the answers Yeah you could also try car-part.com and just make sure you bolt on a starter and compression check it before you bother putting it in.
|
# ? Jun 23, 2015 00:02 |